Cutting Boards

[chappie]

I just bought a beautiful TimberGrass bamboo cutting board on sale. I'll bet this stuff makes decent and attractive countertop material.

[snowangel]

My maple board was actually once the top of a portable dishwasher that broke and was put to the curb by my neighbors. It's so well seasoned that I only oil it a few times each year.

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Thanks for kicking my rear in gear. I need a new wooden cutting board (before my family destroys my good knives on my new granite countertops). I have the old top (maple) from the portable dishwasher we built into our former house. Time to pull out the ryobi orbital sander (a mother's day gift ), sand off the finish, and season.

Did you cut your's up? It seems awfully big. Might be a good excuse to use the table saw...

[Daddy-A]

First off, the IKEA end grain cutting boards are made of rubber tree wood, or at least the ones in Canada were (can't find them anymore ) Rubber wood is tropical and as such really soaks up enything you put on it.

The purpose of the oil is to block the wood cells and prevent them from holding on to bacteria and such. As it turns out, the enzimes in woods like maple are pretty good at killing bacteria as well. Not so sure about rubber wood.

Check out the John Boos website and click on the TIPS menu. They have a very comprehensive list of Do's & Don'ts for your cutting board, or countertop. Boos suggests a good cleaning and re-oiling "every few weeks depending on use."

As far as how many applications ... I recently installed a 36" x 108" x 2.5" thick maple butcher block top on a kitchen island. We used 4 applications on unfinished wood at the beginning of the day, and another 2 at the end of the day. A week later, my client called and said the board was dry already. Luckily, I had left a whole bottle of Boos' "Mystery Oil", which I suspect is mineral oil.

Hope this helps

A.

[fiftydollars]

I think you're right. I seem to remember calling IKEA to ask what wood these boards were made from and they said rubberwood. They said that most of their boards and knife blocks are made from rubberwood... I think that's what I recall hearing. I bought my board in Emeryville, CA (California... not Canada).

[Mottmott]

First off, the IKEA end grain cutting boards are made of rubber tree wood, or at least the ones in Canada were (can't find them anymore  )

A.

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Hoohrah! My board may be sufficiently seasoned. It's certainly darkened. I oiled it again yesterday. Today, it's lost the dry feel it had and even leaves a slight shin on my hand when I rub it. And to think, it only took a whole bottle of mineral oil.

A- Try again. It took my Philadelphia Ikea about 5 months to get them in. Or I think they can be ordered online.

Interesting. You install Boos for others, but seek Ikea? Explanation? Is Boos worth the bucks? I admit I'm really tempted by their 24 x 18 x 1 1/4" - and if I retrofit an industrial grade cart I snagged into a work station I can sit at to chop, I might like something even bigger, perhaps thicker. (I'm short, and standing at the counter, even the 1 1/4 is pushing it for me).

[phaelon56]

I have the old top (maple) from the portable dishwasher we built into our former house.  Time to pull out the ryobi orbital sander (a mother's day gift  ), sand off the finish, and season.

Did you cut your's up?  It seems awfully big.  Might be a good excuse to use the table saw...

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I had only a hand held circular saw at the time. had a local builder trim it to size with his bandsaw so it would fit on the counter space I had available and then sanded it down nicely with a finishign sander. I used to use mineral oil but now that I have a new kitchen with a maple top peninsula I have switched to John Boos Mystery Oil. They add some boiled linseed oil and paraffin into the mineral oil and IMHO it yields a less sticky finish.

[Daddy-A]

A- Try again.  It took my Philadelphia Ikea about 5 months to get them in. Or I think they can be ordered online.

Mottmott,

Yeah I'll keep looking, but I think I've found a great deal on a maple end-grain board from a local department store (The Bay for my fellow Canucks). Regular $49, on sale for $19. Wife is picking one up today on her lunch break

Interesting.  You install Boos for others, but seek Ikea?  Explanation? Is Boos worth the bucks?

Actually, I use a local supplier for my butcher block (Vancouver, BC). Let's be honest, IKEA is going to be way cheaper on a small cutting board. Boos makes an excellent product, as does another company called Michigan Maple (in Sault Ste. Marie, ON), but with shipping and all, it's much cheaper for me to go local.

Also, when I do countertops, unless the client is insanely wealthy (my favorite kind) I do edge grain tops rather than end grain. They're less expensive, but won't hold if the client cuts directly on them (i.e. they'd still need a cutting board.) Much more cost efficient, and ultimately easier to maintain if you go with granite, quartz or solid surface (e.g. Corian) and use a good cutting board.

Re the Boos furniture pieces: Seen this one yet?

A.

[Mottmott]

A. Sounds like you found a great deal.

That free standing chopping block is spiffy, but as I need something on wheels. I'll go with fitting out the cart I have. It will fit my needs better and be cheaper, too.

I don't quite follow what you mean when you say, They're less expensive, but won't hold if the client cuts directly on them (i.e. they'd still need a cutting board.) Much more cost efficient, and ultimately easier to maintain if you go with granite, quartz or solid surface (e.g. Corian) and use a good cutting board. Are you talking about an entire cutting board countertop vs stone or solid surface. Or a combination, etc.?

[Daddy-A]

I don't quite follow what you mean when you say, They're less expensive, but won't hold if the client cuts directly on them (i.e. they'd still need a cutting board.)  Much more cost efficient, and ultimately easier to maintain if you go with granite, quartz or solid surface (e.g. Corian) and use a good cutting board. Are you talking about an entire cutting board countertop vs stone or solid surface. Or a combination, etc.?

There are two types of butcher block (well 3 actually, but we only really use 2) Edge Grain and End Grain.

Edge Grain looks like a hardwood floor. The grain runs the length of the butcher block.

End Grain looks like a checker board. The grain of the wood is running vertically in relation to the surface of the cutting board.

If you cut on Edge Grain, you'll cut the fibres of wood, resulting in a rougher, damaged top.

Doing the same on End Grain simply splays the fibres ... no damage is done.

So what I was saying, was since most people can't afford an entire countertop in Edge Grain, go with a good quality countertop (whatever you choose) and use a smaller, separate & portable butcher block ... that sits on your regular countertop, or is a portable island, like you're looking for.

Sometimes I'll use butcher block for a small section of countertop (i.e. in combination with granite, Corian, etc.) This is mostly for aesthetic purposes.

This is one of my kitchens with that kind of application ... you can see a round butcher block in the foreground of the island.

Good questions ... I hope I'm helping.

Arne

[Mottmott]

...

So what I was saying, was since most people can't afford an entire countertop in Edge Grain, go with a good quality countertop (whatever you choose) and use a smaller, separate & portable butcher block ... that sits on your regular countertop, or is a portable island, like you're looking for.

Sometimes I'll use butcher block for a small section of countertop (i.e. in combination with granite, Corian, etc.)  This is mostly for aesthetic purposes.

This is one of my kitchens with that kind of application ... you can see a round butcher block in the foreground of the island.

Arne

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Really interesting Arne, a highly finished looking kitchen. It's hard to tell what all the materials are. For example, how far back does that glass extend? Does it "arc" over the back counter instead of butting it? What is the shiny black top in the foreground? It looks differenct from the rest of the dark countertop which seems to have a more burnished look (solid surface?). Is it glass that the lighting makes look opaque? Or is it stone at a lower height for baking? I see a microwave, but no stove. Is that on the wall opposite the sink?

I used a continuous strip under the counter lighting at the front of the cabinets that throws a continuous light (masked by decorative molding under the front edge).

I'm considering running a strip of outlets up under the back of the cabinets as the ones I have are in a slightly awkward place for use. For esthetic reasons I placed them at the ends of the counter. That way I have about 10 running feet of free wall space for some pictures, nicely lit by the u-c lighting..

I redid my kitchen 20 years ago, avoiding over the counter cabinets to keep an open feeling to the room, but recently added them along the short end wall kitchen (10') and updated the appliances. Fortunately the mfgr was willing to make the new cabinets to match the discontinued line. It's a work in progress.

[Daddy-A]

I was so inspired by this thread, I had my cabinet shop build me this:

It's 24" x 18" x 1.25" thick end grain maple. Laminations are 3/4" a 1.25". After 5 coats of oil, It's still soaking it up!

A.

[Mottmott]

I was so inspired by this thread, I had my cabinet shop build me this:

It's 24" x 18" x 1.25" thick end grain maple.  Laminations are 3/4" a 1.25".  After 5 coats of oil, It's still soaking it up! 

A.

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Ya had to do it? It's beautiful.

Edited to add OT: The picture reminded me. The school my kids went to had floors made of end grain blocks. Very handsome and probably indestructible.

Edited October 28, 2004 by Mottmott (log)

[anchita]

Hi All, I've been researching the past posts regarding cutting boards, and have found a lot of useful info about this topic. I've finally decided to go for an end-grain wooden board, not more than 2" thick, and as far as possible, not too expensive.

I've narrowed my choices down to these:

A chef depot-John Boos 12"*18"*1-3/4" end grain maple cutting board (fourth from the top,) which will cost me around $75 with shipping. The other board I'm looking at is Calphalon 14"*16"*2" end grain hardwood which sells for $60 (free shipping) at amazon.

The Boos board, of course, has a name (and hopefully the characteristics) which is well-respected in this field. I do prefer the measurements of the Calphalon board, but that is a minor point. The Calphalon is also slightly cheaper and has a "limited lifetime warranty," but its description states it is made of "premium hardwoods" without specifying maple, which if I understand correctly, is the golden standard for cutting boards.

I will be using the board for vegetables only, as I'm a vegetarian. I'd really appreciate it if someone can give me feedback regarding their experience/knowledge with any of these, or general tips which might help me make my final decision.

Thanks,

Anchita

Edited December 16, 2004 by anchita (log)

[carp]

I don't know about the Calphalon board, but I have a John Boos that I have enjoyed for years and if you asked me to pay an extra $15 for it, I would do it in a snap.

[winesonoma]

Buy the Boos.

[hwilson41]

Anchita;

Don't know where you are, but if you're in an area where Hard Maple (aka Sugar Maple aka Rock Maple) grows, you may have a much cheaper alternative. Find a few sawmills (they'll be out in the country, of course) and see if one of them saws Hard Maple. If so, ask them what they would charge to saw you a board approximately quarter sawn of 6/4 (said "six quarter") Hard Maple. You can make yourself a dozen cutting boards, and they'll never warp on you because quarter sawn lumber doesn't warp in its width. Just a thought.

THW

P.S. Hard Maple is what Boos uses, but his isn't quarter sawn. Of course, since it's end grain, it doesn't need to be.

[winesonoma]

As a woodworker I would advise against that unless you want to learn a lot about wood. Got clamps? Know what glue to use? Know about grain direction? I tried it and I've been doin this for 30 years. Buy one.

[hwilson41]

If the board is wide enough (ask for 12" +) glue is irrelevant. As long as there are no major defects, this board can (and probably should) come from near the heart of the log. And grain direction is pretty obvious if you get the whole board. I'm a hardwood lumber broker in my "day job", and this does work. What I forgot to mention is that you'll need to let the lumber air dry for about a year in a non-hostile environment. A laundry room or outdoor storage shed will work fine. But that may be longer than you'd want to wait.

THW

[EdS]

If the board is wide enough (ask for 12" +) glue is irrelevant.  As long as there are no major defects, this board can (and probably should) come from near the heart of the log.  And grain direction is pretty obvious if you get the whole board.  I'm a hardwood lumber broker in my "day job", and this does work.  What I forgot to mention is that you'll need to let the lumber air dry for about a year in a non-hostile environment.  A laundry room or outdoor storage shed will work fine.  But that may be longer than you'd want to wait.

THW

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She's looking for an end-grain board.

[hwilson41]

End grain is fine, but unnecessary for a cutting board. The reason they make them out of end grain is because it's an easy way to use up scraps so it's cheap. For a heavy duty industrial floor that will have iron wheeled carts running over it, end grain is great. For a cutting board, it's overkill. But if that's what she wants that's fine with me.

THW

[andiesenji]

Is there a particular reason you want one that is not more than 2 inches thick?

I speak only of end grain boards - or you might call them blocks.

I have a couple of Boos boards and they are fine I have had them for some years and they have served me well. I do think that one has to pay extra for the name which does not necessarily add value to the item.

My favorites are made by Michigan Maple however they are 3 1/2 inches thick.

I have three of these, one round one which I took to the local high school so the wood shop could hollow one side of it for me so I can use my big mezaluna in it and still use the other side for cutting.The Knife Merchant is one vendor. Scroll to the bottom.

I have two of the 15 x 20 inch blocks which I use constantly. One is strictly for vegetables and the other is for meats.

A comparable Boos product is much more expensive and these are, in my opinion, worth every penny.

That being said, I recently ordered two of

these bamboo chopping blocks for friends (one for my neighbor with whom I do a lot of cooking).

I received them Monday and have already wrapped them, otherwise I would take a photo.

Yesterday I ordered another for myself because I was truly impressed by the quality.

These are seriously fine cutting boards. The surface is like satin and water beads up on it without any oiling, which you have to do to the endgrain boards periodically.

I noticed them because Kershaw recommends them for use with their Shun knives and since I recently bought one of the knives I decided the boards must be pretty good.

I did not test my knives on the boards because I wanted to wrap them as our Christmas party here in the neighborhood is this weekend and then I will be away for two weeks.

Edited December 16, 2004 by andiesenji (log)

[anchita]

Thanks for the responses!

hwilson41, thanks for the ideas. But I live in Texas, so I don't think that'd work for me. Also, a year is more than what I'm willing to wait for my cutting board at this point.

The reason I wanted end-grain was that I've heard they're much more forgiving on knife blades than edge grain.

Thanks for the links, andiesenji. I don't want it to be more than 2" thick because it will make the cutting surface uncomfortably high for me. As for the bamboo, I have been thinking about that too. Again, I have heard that they can be harder on knives than end-grain wood, though I don't have any personal experience with them. I also have my eye on an end-grain bamboo board at Sur La Table but that seems to be out of stock..

[jackal10]

Is your chopping block for use or decoration/

If its for use, then it will get chopped on, scratched and mildly abused.

Replaced even form time to time.

If your knife dulls chopping on wood, then there is a problem with your knife..

Go to Chinatown and buy an chinese chopping block, and save yourself $50...

(Online example)

[oraklet]

or try one of these:

http://www.ikea.com/webapp/wcs/stores/serv...ats=10108*10216

http://www.ikea.com/webapp/wcs/stores/serv...ats=10108*10216

my end grain block/board was bought 3 years ago in ikea. appr. same size but rubber wood. works beautifully.

[slkinsey]

End grain is fine, but unnecessary for a cutting board.  The reason they make them out of end grain is because it's an easy way to use up scraps so it's cheap.  For a heavy duty industrial floor that will have iron wheeled carts running over it, end grain is great.  For a cutting board, it's overkill.  But if that's what she wants that's fine with me.

I have to say that I disagree with you 100% on this one. End grain is very important for a cutting board, and this is why: with an end grain cutting board, the wood fibers part and provide a relatively soft surface for the edge of the knife. This means less wear and tear on the edge, which ultimately means longer life and better performance out of the knife.

Here is a "closeup" graphic illustrating a knife on an end grain cutting board. Note how the fibers part for the edge of the knife.

Here is a graphic of a knive on a "cross grain" cutting board. This is a much harder cutting surface. Note how there is nowhere for the edge to go unless it cuts through the wod fibers. Note how the very end of the edge bends against the board.

I would never want to use a cutting board that wasn't end grain.