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Recent tastes


Florida Jim

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1998 Hamacher, Pinot Noir:

This maker produces very well balanced and elegantly styled OR pinots and this continues in that mode. On release, this was quite intense but, shortly thereafter, went through a somewhat closed stage. It has opened back up and shows very fine and ripe cherry/raspberry fruit with nice focus but not the intensity of its youth. I also thought I detected a bit less structure than the last couple of bottles tasted – whether that is a momentary thing or the beginning of the end, I couldn’t guess. Nonetheless, excellent accompaniment to a pasta dish with a very light white sauce and asparagus, prosciutto, caramelized onions and cheese.

2000 Michaud, Brouilly Cuvee Prestige:

As is often the case with good Beaujolais that has a year or two on it, drinking a bottle of this convinces me I did not buy near enough. Still very intense on the palate with mineral and red fruit flavors, solid acids, suave tannins and a laser like delivery that is, by itself, refreshing. Complex aromatics and good length complete a very fine experience. Along with baby-back ribs, summer squash, broccoli and blueberry pie, ‘finest kind.

1998 Belle Pente, Riesling:

Several years in the bottle has stripped this wine of most of its aromas but the palate is lively, crisp, vinous and has some depth. It is good by itself but comes alive with a salad of fresh herbs and a mozzarella-prosciutto roll.

Last Friday, friends we met in NC came in for an evening and two glorious FL days. Kraig and Kim are relatively new to wine but both have much better palates than most recent initiates I know.

Among the wines tasted over their stay were the following: 2002 J.P. Brun, Terres Dorees, Beaujolais Blanc; 2002 B. Baudry, Chinon, Les Granges; 1999 Gilles Robin, Crozes-Hermitage Cuvee Alberic Bouvet; and, 2002 Coudert, Clos de la Roilette, Fleurie (reg. bottling).

Each wine showed well (several of my recent posts have more detailed notes on these), although the Coudert was fairly closed as one might expect for such a young powerhouse of a wine. The interesting result of our tasting was Kraig’s call to CSW the next day to purchase the Coudert and Brun wines, as well as some other goodies listed on their website inventory.

It is heartening to see that kind of appreciation for such wines and it gives me a sense of personal satisfaction that I could introduce them. Especially, when their local wine shop employees continue to try to “sell them up.”

Although, I suppose it could be argued that I have done likewise; but quality, not price.

Best, Jim

www.CowanCellars.com

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