New Year's Ahi Sashimi

[skchai]

One of Hawai`i's most entrenched annual traditions is the consumption of massive amounts of tuna (preferably ahi) sashimi for New Year's Day. Every year around this time, prices for top-grade ahi doubles or triples - rising in some years to as high as $30 a pound for highly-marbled ahi toro. Everyone in Hawai`i, it seems, certaintly not just Japanese-Americans, believes that a big pile of ahi sashimi along with their fireworks is "no ka oi".

One of the most interesting parts of this ritual is the annual "ahi price monitor", where the local papers start to report with miniscule accuracy the price of various cuts. . . If you don't believe me, here are the annual ahi monitor articles from the Star-Bulletin over the last few years:

2003. Flippin' over fish: Retailers expect an adequate supply of ahi for New Year's, by Leila Fujimori

2002. Sashimi in good supply for New Year: The larger stock is pushing prices down, some fish sellers say, by Star-Bulletin staff

2001. Sashimi Selection: Ahi prices could rise depending on the final catches of the year, by Lisa Asato and Diana Leone

2000. Ahi plentiful for New Year’s: Prices are expected to be about the same as last year, say fishmongers, by Janine Tully

1999. Folks forking out big bucks for holiday food: Markets are gearing up to meet the huge demand for ahi, sushi, laulau, mochi and champagne, by Crystal Kua

1998. Ahi prices are starting to stabilize: The big New Year's rush for sashimi-grade ahi has passed, and prices are settling down, by Suzanne Tswei

1997. Fish-buying frenzy gets under way: Ahi should range from $8 to $20 a pound, a market spokesman said, by Craig Gima

My question, such as it is, is: how and when did this tradition get started? As far as I know, there is no special connection between sashimi and New Year's Food (Osechi Ryori) among Japanese in Japan. Cantonese in SE Asia eat raw fish salad (Yue Sung) for New Year's, but it seems kind of stretch to use that to account for the popularity of sashimi at New Year's in Hawai`i.

Also, any recollections of experiences Hawai`i people past and present have had with getting ahold of that prized ahi on New Year's?

Any similar types of traditions elsewhere in the world?

[skchai]

Perhaps I spoke to soon about there being no special connection between sashimi and New Year's in Japan itself - Torakris posted a picture of a beautiful plate of sashimi that her Father-in-Law prepared, along with the ozoni and other great-looking stuff, all in her terrific New Year's foodblog.

Kristin, if you're reading this, could you tell us whether Tokyo people make any special effort to have sashimi for New Year's?

[torakris]

That is an interesting question.

I read your original question a couple days a go and was waitng to here some responses as Iw as curious as to when that traditional started in the islands.

As far as I know sashimi is not part of the traditional osechi per se, but it does seem to be popular. Sushi restaurants are also on double time during the holidays.

When I spent my first New Years in Japan (1993) at my ex-boyfriends house his family ate fugu sashimi for New Years dinner.....

My FIL has done a sashimi platter for as long as we have had new years together.

I wonder where the Hawaiian tradition came from....

[skchai]

Thanks so much for your quick reply, Kristin!

Fugu sashimi for New Year's! Perhaps that's to counteract any excessive "long life" effect from eating toshikoshi soba?

My guess, for whatever it's worth, is that ahi sashimi's popularity arose from a combination of different factors. First, local people usually like to pass the long New Year's Eve hours setting off fireworks and gulping down huge amounts of pupus (appetizers). Sashimi works really well because it doesn't require heating up, and can be simply be removed from the fridge to replenish the supply when needed, freeing the hosts and hostesses to join in the festivities. Secondly, sashimi, being a festive and fairly expensive food, would be a natural fit in with a big holiday like New Year's. Finally, ahi is without question the preeminent sashimi fish here in Hawai`i. So maybe that all added up.

But that doesn't explain how or when it happened. Maybe next time I'm at Tamashiro's or one of the other long-established fish markets I'll try to ask. . .

[gus_tatory]

skchai--

i'm not sure how "helpful" this answer is , but might it also have to do with the concept of abundance of protein at new year's? in France, it's oysters. in Vegas, surf n' turf.

i mean, whatever resource is seen as treasured (and perhaps limited) is celebrated on new year's?

Edited January 3, 2004 by gus_tatory (log)

[wesza]

I had a discussion with Walter Tamishiro in 1983 regarding the reason why Ahi Tuna became so popular and expensive in Honolulu during the two celebrations New Year's and Chinese New Year.

This seems to effect not only Fishes that were used for Sushi but also local bottom fish like Onaga or Oppakapaka, Moi and Weke.

Walter attributed this to the fact that the local Wholesale Market Daily Auction Prices were elevated due to the fact the Hawaiian Ahi Fresh Caught during that time of the year considered the premium fresh Tuna in Japan.

I don't know if the increased popularity of Nitrogen Quick Freezing in the Tuna Boats has changed this situation but I doubt it since Fresh is alway's premium priced in the Market.

The Bottom Fish have always been expensive, even though now they are being exported much more then previously. He attributed the price rise due to the momentum of the Tuna excitement and the fact that traditionally Asians request Red Skinned Fishes for New Years. Also during this time of year and the Holidays Hotels and Tourist Restaurants are very busy. Up to $20.00 per pound with a dressed filet yield of about 37% make the portion food cost astronomical.

I remember the expressions of many visitors who were shocked that Seafood on the Islands was so expensive during this season.

They were inclineded to order dishes like Lobster or Real Scampi more often since they were more reasonably priced then local Fish with the exception of several trolled Fish such as Kaku, Spearfish, Marlin, Wahoo, Opah or Mahi Mahi.

Irwin

[skchai]

As usual, Irwin, you're a fountain of knowledge. So perhaps the high prices are not totally due to local demand, but also the fact that the period when local demand is high coincides with the period when demand in Japan is high as well. This would fit in with Kristen's observations that sushi restaurants enjoy double their business during New Year's.

Gus_tatory, your answer is quite reasonable: During special occasions, the high prices of a good may actually be improve its suitability as an expression of celebration.

I guess one thing we still need to answer is - why do local people focus their celebratory consumption on sashimi rather than something else?

[alanamoana]

i would venture to add that they use some of the tuna for poke?! i love sashimi and my god father used to always bring it to our house whenever we had a joint celebration like thanksgiving, christmas or new year's eve.

i have to agree with gus_tatory...you show your generosity, wealth, etc. by bringing such a valued gift or contribution to the dinner...demand happens to make the prices go up...sort of a chicken or the egg discussion .

[wesza]

i would venture to add that they use some of the tuna for poke?! i love sashimi and my god father used to always bring it to our house whenever we had a joint celebration like thanksgiving, christmas or new year's eve.

i have to agree with gus_tatory...you show your generosity, wealth, etc. by bringing such a valued gift or contribution to the dinner...demand happens to make the prices go up...sort of a chicken or the egg discussion .

alamoana:

Generally for "Poke" must folks use the more reasonably priced "Aku" not the high priced "Ahi" unless it not Sushi Quality.

Irwin

[skchai]

Here are some "ahi price watch" articles from this year's Advertiser and S-B:

Fish supply up in time for New Year's

Customers pleased by 'ahi prices

[laniloa]

I thought some of it was also a status thing -- the honor of being able to enjoy the best sushi, first sushi of the new year. I did a quick search but could find the article, but I remember that the first toro of the new millenium went for something ridiculous like $25 a bite. It was a very pricey fish.