Restaurant Nicholas, revisited

[Kim WB]

I had my third dining experience at RN this past weekend. I think I might have mentioned that on my two previous visits, I was very unimpressed, but at the same time, both visits were at times when there were extraneous circumstances that would have greatly infuluenced my impression. The first time, I was on the edge of being very ill, and it really hit me on the long ride there...so by the time of the meal, I was achy, naseous and feeling like a Nyquil commercial. The second time, we met with another couple, who walked in tense and looking like they had been in a major fight..her eyes were red from crying, etc. Right after we order, the wife runs into the bathroom in tears and confides that after her most recent fertility try, she was not pregnant. ( I can tell this tale now..she's expecting her twins on Feb 14!) We got throught the meal, whcih I thought was mediocre, but the circumstances may have driven that impression.

So back again, with another couple, who already have four kids! Happy, Healthy, prepared to dine...

I don't prefer the sparse decor, but that's subjective. I was recently at a dining hall at Douglas College, and they had the same hanging curved kite like things...it looked very similiar and white and institutional, can't help but note the similarities.

We start with Pelligrinno and some cocktails,and order two bottles of a cult Cab. They didn't have two bottles of the 97, but offered us a 97 and a 2000. They have useless little decanters, and the 2000 needed to breathe. It was over $150 per bottle, and they simply did not prepare the wine for serving well enough. There was no apparant sommelier, the waitperson served the wine and the food to the best of my observing.

Bread tastes like any local bakery bread. Menu was interesting, balanced, well presented. Service was very professional, approachable, no complaints at all. Amuse bouche was a lovely chestnut soup, in an espresso cup. I think that presentation is a bit old, but it was a great soup.

WE all had the 3 course prix fixe. Appetizers: Husband had venison carpaccio, he loved it. Couple #2 had peekyboo crab salad and pumpkin agnolotti. Both said it was very good, but neither finished?? I had the seared foie w/calvados and apple which was well prepared, but not well balanced. There was not enough acid on the plate to cut through the richness of the foie..the sauce was a bit too sweet for my taste, and the apple didn't have the tartness that was needed to work with the foie.

Entrees: Lamb and Shell Steak for couple #2. Her lamb came whole ribbed tableside, and was sliced on the cart. The waiter immediately noticed it was rare, and explained he was returning it to the kitchen. He plated it, and then brought a piping hot dish with MR lamb to the table a minute or so later. Her husband had the shell steak, as did mine. It came sliced, with a strangely dry short ribs and potatoe souflee accompaniement. Both men commented on the lack of quantity, but agreed it was very good and perfectly prepared. Neither ate the souflee. It was shredded beef rib with potato on top..poor texture, and very dry. I had the seared salmon. It came with brussel sprouts. Well, it came with 6 brussel sprout halves. SIX halves..that comes to three brussel sprouts. No starch, just the salmon with the artistic dots of slighly undercooked brussel sprouts with burnt ends..a few were carmelized as intended, but a few were burnt. And when you only get THREE brussel sprouts...every one counts. I thought the salmon was overcooked, but I prefer rare and did not specify that.

We ordered cheese for the table, whcih was a stingy but nice selection. What they served for the table of 4, I have seen presented at other places as a tasting for two people. Not served with fruit, just a few slices of nut bread. Good selection, a little heavy on the triple cremes, but I love them..good temperature, not anything startingly unique, but more than goat/brie/blue.

Pre dessert was a fantastic tapioca in passion fruit..it was so great, I'm thinking dessert is going to be my blow away course, so I'm using the dessert menu for serious shopping. And, my husband doesnt' eat dessert, so in any prix fixe situation, I get two!

I went with the creme brulee trio and the chestnut naploleon. Couple #2 had the Valhrona molten cake and passion fruit souflee.

First of all, I am starting to think that tiny little creme brulees suffer. A single serving brulee tastes creamier and better to me than the ones that are in the little timy ramekins for a tasting style dish. That might just be me. The regular was..regular. The pumpkin was a bit strange, more clove and allspice than pumpkin, and the pink peppercorn was better than I expected..but I pray daily to

the dessert gods that this silly trend of parsley and basil desserts ends soon...so I taste a dessert with pink peppercorn with already low expectations. The chestnut napolean was actually chestnut mousee layered between dry, blah meringue discs. Plus, hard to eat..the discs were hard and took some pressure to break through, resulting in smooshing the tower and needing that "free hand to guard the disc from flying off the plate" maneuver. The passion fruit souflee was not eaten, the chocolate cake demolished. Cappucinno/chocoalte petit fours in the shape of their distinctive expresso cups were great.

All in all, I'd choose Ryland or Stage House Inn or Rats over Nicholas. The food, in a way, matches the decor: non-descript and minimal.

*edited to cahnge expresso to "espresso". I can't believe I did that...it's one of my pet peeves!

Edited December 30, 2003 by Kim WB (log)

[Rosie]

Thanks for the report. I was surprised to read about the wine. Melisa Harary was the former dining room manager and sommelier at Tabla, New York City. Nicholas Harary trained at the Culinary Institute of America and was sommelier at Jean Georges, New York City.

[rozrapp]

So, Kim, I guess, when it comes to Nicholas, for you, it's three strikes and they're out? I'm really sorry that you've had such below par experiences. As I mentioned in my listing of favorite restaurants of 2003, we did not manage to get to Nicholas this past year. However, we have been there several times. Nicholas was always in the dining room, handling the wine service personally, and the food was never less than exceptional. Interestingly, the food at the Ryland Inn has never appealed to me very much. So, perhaps, then, it all falls under the age-old category of "Chacun a son gout."

[Kim WB]

Thanks for the report. I was surprised to read about the wine. Melisa Harary was the former dining room manager and sommelier at Tabla, New York City. Nicholas Harary  trained at the Culinary Institute of America and was sommelier at Jean Georges, New York City.

Yes,t heir background is familiar to me, but I never met them..so I would not know if they were in the restaurant Saturday night. The place was empty, btw. 5 tables filled at 7pm . Perhaps 1/2 full by 8, but never more than that. Holiday weekend and all that, so I'm sure tha's why.

I was also suprised buy the lack of attentiveness in wine service. There was certainly no discussion, or attempt to engage in any, about the list. It was the perfunctonary handing of the list,and coming back a few minutes later to take the order. Which is what my SO prefers..I even said in the car ride there something like" The folks who run this are wine people,so if they want to talk to you about wine selections don't be rude!" He often brushes off sommeliers. I love him anyway. And now that I am recalling it, the waitperson was definitely the same person who decanted the wine.

BTW, he felt their Italian selection was "ordinary" and their CA selections much more unique and special from what you see on many wine lists.

Edited December 29, 2003 by Kim WB (log)

[Kim WB]

It should be noted that Mr. Hararay, owner of RN, e-mailed me a response to this thread. I introduce bring a different perspective. I hope that he does so, but in fairness I will not post personal correspondence.

[glenn]

We (wife and 2 friends) had a wonderful experience NYE, the early sitting. I think I had exactly the same thing as last NYE; I'm so adventurous. Kim's post as well as others make me realize why I'll never be a restaurant critic. I don't mean this in an offensive way and hope no offense is taken, but I just like to enjoy the food without analyzing. Therefore, don't expect me to justify why I love this place except to say all five (?) courses were extraordinary, particularly the braised roasted pig and the best chocolate mousse I ever had. When I asked for a wine recommendation, the waiter said he'd have Nicholas come over since he designed the wine list. Perhaps this was in response to Kim's complaint about the lack of a sommelier? To my surprise, a pretty youngish blonde came over and I thought they sent over some floozy waitress! But she knew her shit and came up with a great Bordeaux recommendation (which I forget), and one of the least expensive choices. And then I realized that this was Mrs. H. Thank you thank you, Melissa.

My friends commented after we left that they didn't think it was filled up, but the layout is deceiving. It's so spacious and conducive to conversation, that you almost think there's no one else there. Btw, it was filled. The service was excellent and not stuffy at all. I wasn't even intimidated by the waiter and busser, a nice change of pace :-)).

[Rosie]

Thanks for your report Glenn. I consider Nicholas the best restaurant in NJ. A note about the sparse decor. I didn't find it to be a problem and actually liked the uncluttered feel to the restaurant. I thought the French Laundry had VERY sparse decor and didn't find it to be a distraction. But we all have our opinions and they are all welcome here. That is why there is chocolate and vanilla ice cream!

[Kim WB]

Glenn, I'm glad you had a good experience..there has certainly been enough good press about this place to assume that most people do like it.

My above post was somehow missing a line..and its too late to edit. For those following along, Nicholas privately e-mailed me regarding my post, and I encouraged him to publicly post it on this thread, as I thought it would provide a different perspective.

[Kim WB]

furthermore, I just told my husband about the thread and the owner's response. Bob made me promise to post that HE thought RN was one of my better choices, and that he knew the wine was going to be a little young, but ordered it anyway. And the decanters were fine, and the service was excellent, including the entire wine service which was professional and unobtrusive" and his steak was great, and he doesn't care about the sides or the dessert because he never eats then anyway...and that I am wrong on everything except that the place does look " a little bit like a modern art museum".

So, like Rosie said..vanilla and chocolate, even within a happy marriage!

Happy New year all!

[Rosie]

Happy New Year to you also Kim. LOL!!!