Restaurant Wine List Construction

[tjaehnigen]

I remember reading something somewhere about the sommelier at TFL. He basically took the tack of having at least one well-priced gem per page of the wine list and seemed to think any hal intelligent wine-o would naturally gravitate towards one of those listed and be happy. For those below half intelligent wine-os or for non-wine-os, he basically seemed to think, uh, 'screw 'em' or something like that.

I wonder if most wine lists at restaurants are constructed this way (well, at least at finer dining establishments, let's say)?

Thoughts anyone?

[Carema]

That was never my style of list construction. For me, the way you build a list (or store as the case is now) it is an expression of your soul. The point of wine lists is , yes to find those great bottles that will make money, but to also excite and delight people with choices and facings that they wouldnt necessarily have made on their own. Sure you always have to put a few pedestrain things on there that maybe you would never buy yourself, but I don't know- that guy sounds like a real ass.

[Mark Sommelier]

Only one gem per page? What a stupid idea. A wine list in a top end place should have a big "wow" factor. I love it when I overhear a guy tell his wife "oh look, honey, the Coche-Dury is only $500!". There should be many gems on every page.

[wineserver]

This also always stirs great controversy, particularly issue of restaurant wine prices. A magic, one-size-fits-all formulas does not exist. The construction and goals of a wine program for a restaurant in a high rent district in Gotham City should not be the same for an operation of similar scope in Cleveland, Ohio. Though both these restaurants strive to be the best in their respective markets, their markets and costs of operations are completely different. Though wine means so many things to us as enthusiasts, a restaurant is a business and wine is a vehicle for profit. This however allows for an incredible degree of freedom for the sommelier or proprietor to assemble and present a wine list that is at once creative, balanced, and profitable. I will grant you most restaurateurs do not offer premium service or selection but feel the right to charge premium prices. You have the right not to dine in these restaurants or further not to buy wine if you do dine. This one gem per page philosophy obviously says quiet a bit the sommelier who promotes it.

[wnissen]

I will admit to being quite surprised that among this group, which prides itself on knowing a lot more than the average diner, there is not more support for hiding an Easter Egg on each page of the list. To give a practical example that I have run into, take the Wente Vineyards Restaurant, which is the only real fine dining within twenty minutes of my house. Their markups are, in the main, rapacious. The usual suspects, such as Yellow Label (US$90) and the Wente wines are typically in the range of triple or quadruple retail. And yet, every time I go, I always find, nestled deep in the list, a dry rose', for a very reasonable price. Right now it's the 2001 Heitz Cellars Grignolino Rosé for US$29. Not bad at all and typically a great match with the California cuisine. You had better believe that I am grateful for that one reasonably priced wine. I'm sure that it is there as a small gift to small fry wine lovers such as myself. I am happy to let the other diners enjoy their 1999 Opus ($345) because, frankly,

it's not that important to them. I don't feel that they are getting screwed; they have the same opportunity as the rest of us to take a look at the list and make smart choices. I guess the question is, is this practice better or worse than a mechanic charging a novice big bucks to fix his or her car?

Walt

[Echezeaux]

I don't find Heitz 2001 Rose at $29 to be a bargain! I might consider ordering their 2002 at this stage, but can't say $29 is a "deal" for a $12-$13 retail bottle of wine.

It's that sort of pricing that has me looking at ordering a beer.

I am not impressed by wine lists that are more like a phone book or those lists which don't match the cuisine.

[wineserver]

There has never been a better time to be a wine buyer. Quality internationally has never been higher. Availability of incredible diversity in the United States is better than most any country in the world. Even with the weaker dollar, prices are reasonable if not quiet the value of a the late 1990s. With such circumstances, there is no excuse for a cookie cutter wine program. Unfortunately, most restaurateurs do not see the benefit of dedicated wine buyer/sommelier to take advantage of these conditions. This would be an unnecassary cost in their eyes. They completely miss the obvious point. This position is an investment capable of paying for itself as well as driving greater revenues and profitability. Show me a restaurant with a capable and competent sommelier and I will show you a restaurant capable of meeting even the most discerning wine geek's needs.