I Have Become a Tart

[Craig Camp]

As I sip on a Chinotto for refreshment or have a Fernet Branca after dinner, I am reminded that I like bitter flavors.

I like them in my wine too. Isn't it the slight tartness or bitterness in wine that makes it such a perfect match with food. The little tannic bite, the tingle of acidity on the tongue the mixture of tartness and sweetness in the fruit flavors - these are the things that make wine light up the flavors in a dish.

So why does it seem the mission of modern, so called international style of winemaking is to take all these components out of wine? Big fruit, low acid and tannins held prisoners in long chains -- a combination compelling only when matched with other wines - not food.

It seems curious that as food becomes more delicate - foams and aromas - that wine is becoming more powerful.

When I want an Amarone I order an Amarone - not a Bordeaux. Is wine becoming more and more separated from food?

[ctgm]

So why does it seem the mission of modern, so called international style of winemaking is to take all these components out of wine? Big fruit, low acid and tannins held prisoners in long chains -- a combination compelling only when matched with other wines - not food.

I think that the reason is that wines are now being made for more immediate consumption. If a wine was made in the "old style" many would need 10 years before they were ready for drinking. This is not a problem for some of the "big" boys (and in particualr Bordeaux/Burgundy) but the cheaper to mid range of wines are made to drink young.

[futronic]

Craig, I agree to some extent that food and wine is getting separated. With the increase of "hedonistic fruit bombs" (thanks, Mr. Parker ) in the marketplace, wine is beginning to stand on its own. I find it difficult to pair these types of wines with food (unless I'm having a big Zin with smoked ribs or something). I guess that's why I prefer old world wines, terroir, and their food-friendliness.