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No Good Values in Burgundy?


Craig Camp

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I went to my favorite local wine stores and laid down the gauntlet: give me a $20 Burgundy that is worth the money. The guy who sold me the Marsannay laughed at me (or, charitably, with me). The guy (an importer) who sold me the bourgogne rouge shrugged -- they normally don't bother with anything under $35, just got in the rouge, and hadn't tried it yet.

So here are the tasting notes, from worst to best. These wines were drunk with food, and while preparing it. I'm interested in the real world, not blind tastings. Excuse me if the notes are obtuse -- I have a pretty dull palate, but I know what I like, and I can tell if a wine is offering me something or not.

2001 Bourgogne rouge

Michel Colin-Deléger & Fils

$16

Exactly the kind of Bourgogne that kept me away: thin and sour.

2001 Marsanny

Domaine Phillipe Charlopin-Parizot (Gevrey-Chambertin)

$23

Delicate and suave, but too sweet. Not bad, not interesting.

Monthelie

Domaine du Château de Puligny-Montrachet

or

Château du Domaine de Puligny-Montrachet

$8/glass at restaurant, which is why I don’t remember producer or year (though obviously it’s not likely to predate 2000)

Good fruit, not much else: a bit international tasting, about as good as the Saintsbury that started this discussion.

2000 Pommard

Château Génot-Boulanger (Meursault)

$22

This wine had breed, as I believe you wine people call it. Very elegant, verging on austere, with cinnamon/anise-y nose.

1998 Savigny-les-Beaune 1er cru “les Narbontois”

Maurice Ecard & fils

$25 (on sale from $35 – at the supermarket)

By far the most exciting and complex wine. Full on the palate without being vulgar. Good acid and fruit + spice, citrus, and something tropical.

The last three wines are the only two I would take pleasure in drinking again. The last two were starting to lead me down the path of Burgundy obsession -- I could see where it was going, even if I didn't follow it all the way. But that is a path I can't really afford more than a glimpse of. I'll be sticking south of the Loire.

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