"Southern" Desserts

[Toliver]

I know I'm curious. What is our delightfully un-PC PC making these days? Any of the suggestions on this thread make the cut?

Yes, do tell!

[zilla369]

Again, apologizes to all

Mckay  ( JASON McCARTHY )

Oh, pshaw, no apologies, please - instead, please accept mine for the knee-jerk reaction. Us budding pastry drudges can get a little cranky after a 12-hour day and only a few hours' sleep

As for the dessert menu at Limestone - man! As business ratchets up, i seem to go in earlier and earlier and still end up with less and less time to experiment or develop specials. And all three local restaurant reviewers were in last week; as soon as those reviews are published i'm pretty sure it'll only get more hectic. Last Saturday, for instance, we did 190 covers. So it's getting to be more of a job just to replace the par stock of desserts i need to keep. I'm especially paranoid that my pantry-mates will run out of something on my days off (Wednesdays). I don't know why that possibility seems worse to me than running out while i'm actually on premises, but it does. I think it's mostly that i would be able to give a warning count to the servers within a decent time interval of running out, but i don't know that anybody else would, and i'd hate for a guest to order something and then be disappointed.

The dessert i thought would be the most popular (brown sugar pear poundcake with red wine poached pears) is, in fact, almost the least popular. In a way i'm sort of relieved by that, because even though it's very good, it probably takes up the most prep time.

My bourbon sour mash bread pudding, which at first i wasn't crazy about, has improved a lot since i made the sneaky recipe modification of using the custard from my creme brulee recipe as its binder. Also have exchanged sun-dried cherries for the original raisins. Now i just keep a big old vat of brulee "batter" in the walk-in all the time, and every day i fill all the empty brulee dishes and bake them off first thing. I only need to make the bread pudding about twice a week - but i dread cutting up all that bread into cubes!

The creme brulee is a popular as ever. What's even more popular is the dessert "trio" i started running, with a mini-brulee (about two oz.), a mini-berry "napolean" (god, i just can't seem to type that without the quote marks - damn you, ACF!), and a small wedge of the chess pie...

Chocolate chess pie! That thing is blowin' up! Everybody's nuts about it. Staff is constantly bugging me to "mess one up so I can have a piece, please!" We've done several private parties, and they all choose the chocolate chess pie for their dessert. So lots of times i have to make 8 chess pies several times a week. Actually, it does taste pretty good, and looks good on a plate with chocolate sauce, but i thought it was pretty pedestrian. Apparently not - or if so, nobody cares. But i am beginning to hate the word Callebaut, heh. My hands ache when i get up in the morning from chopping chocolate every day. Doesn't that stuff come in some already-chopped form? I imagine it does, but it's probably pretty expensive, eh? Also, i've been, of course, par-baking the pie crusts and then filling and re-baking, so i have to put foil around the edges so the crust doesn't get too brown on its second go-round in the oven. That foil chore is the one i hate most. Luckily, i found some cheap pie crust shields online, and chef's promised to order me some.

The berry "napoleon" is pretty popular, too - and i like it because it's the most colorful dessert on the menu. But simply using the juice from the bourbon-marinated berries wasn't getting it for me, because it was just so thin that it made for a messy-looking plate presentation. So i've started puree-ing, double-straining, and reducing the juice after the addition of simple syrup - *sigh*, more added steps! - but it looks MUCH nicer on the plate, now.

The clafouti isn't selling well. I firmly believe this is because the servers don't know how to describe it to the guests (even though the servers have all tasted it.) What would be a good description to train them to give? I mean, my standard answer is "warm apples baked in a light fluffy batter, with ice cream on top", and really, that doesn't even sound all that enticing. Besides, servers have trouble remembering a sentence that long

As a check amenity, i was doing Godiva chocolate biscotti, but that was a lot of work (and took up a lot of oven-time. God forbid.) Last week, i coaxed some chocolate i had seized by accident with Godiva liqueur into some servicable truffles, and everyone lost their mind. I practically have to keep these under lock and key. ("Dessert amenity for one, please." "Oh, you have a one-top out there?" "uh, no..."). So i guess they're a pretty successful dessert amenity. Last night i made my first batch without Godiva and used Chambord instead. I like these better than the biscotti because they keep better, but then again that's just MORE chocolate-chopping for me. I mean, between the chess pie and the truffles and the chocolate sauce and the writing-chocolate i need for birthday plates, i'm hand-chopping about 5 pounds of chocolate a day at times. Gah!

We're going to be open on thanksgiving, so i'm going to need some kick-ass pumpkin pie recipe for starters. I'm also considering running a trio of different-flavored creme brulees...maybe classic, sweet potato and - cranberry? How would i get cranberry flavoring into a creme brulee?

Thanks for all your support, and for reading this far if you made it through the whole thing. Good grief.

MARSHA LYNCH

[Toliver]

I got tired just reading your post so I can only imagine how you tired must be feeling! And your poor hands...it's too bad they don't make a automatic chocolate chopper.

My bourbon sour mash bread pudding, which at first i wasn't crazy about, has improved a lot since i made the sneaky recipe modification of using the custard from my creme brulee recipe as its binder.  Also have exchanged sun-dried cherries for the original raisins.

I've had something similar where the raisins were soaked in bourbon before being baked into the bread pudding. They came out plump, sassy and delicious.

The clafouti isn't selling well.  I firmly believe this is because the servers don't know how to describe it to the guests (even though the servers have all tasted it.)  What would be a good description to train them to give?  I mean, my standard answer is "warm apples baked in a light fluffy batter, with ice cream on top", and really, that doesn't even sound all that enticing.  Besides, servers have trouble remembering a sentence that long 

Personally, I would 86 the term "clafouti" and rename it something else. The average customer has no idea what the heck a "clafouti" is. Instead, call it "Augusta Apple Pudding" or whatever...something a little less alien-sounding and more southern "comfort food" friendly.

As a check amenity, i was doing Godiva chocolate biscotti, but that was a lot of work (and took up a lot of oven-time.  God forbid.)  Last week, i coaxed some chocolate i had seized by accident with Godiva liqueur into some servicable truffles, and everyone lost their mind.  I practically have to keep these under lock and key. ("Dessert amenity for one, please."  "Oh, you have a one-top out there?"  "uh, no...").  So i guess they're a pretty successful dessert amenity.  Last night i made my first batch without Godiva and used Chambord instead.  I like these better than the biscotti because they keep better, but then again that's just MORE chocolate-chopping for me.  I mean, between the chess pie and the truffles and the chocolate sauce and the writing-chocolate i need for birthday plates, i'm hand-chopping about 5 pounds of chocolate a day at times.  Gah!

I think you've discovered a good way to capture the hearts and stomachs of the staff (which I am sure you have done already) but a little chocolate bribery once in awhile can help swing things your way.

We're going to be open on thanksgiving, so i'm going to need some kick-ass pumpkin pie recipe for starters.  I'm also considering running a trio of different-flavored creme brulees...maybe classic, sweet potato and - cranberry?  How would i get cranberry flavoring into a creme brulee?

I'm sure you will get lots of responses to your creme brulee question. As for pie, I just did the digest for Bon Appetit's Thanksgiving issue and one of the pie recipes was for a pumpkin pie with gingersnap crust topped with a cinnamon & ginger flavored whipped cream, which sounded really good.

Thanks for taking the time out of your very busy day to keep us updated about your job and your dessert challenges.

[Wendy DeBord]

Toliver beat me to a couple remarks I was going to make.

I ditto him on soaking your raisins. Even if you only use boiling h20 they're better soaked then dry. You also can keep a small bucket of bourbon raisins ready to go.

You MUST insist upon getting pellets of chocolate! By the time you chop your blocks the wasted time is no savings! When you have spare time (if you ever do) prep all your chocolate by using the cusinart and keep it in a bucket ready to go. Or if there's ever anyone standing still enlist them to chop....people like to help others.

One of my favorite simple tricks on pie crusts is baking them upside down. Trust me you'll be happy with your results. Assuming your using tins (glass plates won't work)....place your dough in the tin then place another tin into it, invert and bake inverted. Your crust bakes very evenly this way and the sides can't slouch down.

Ditto on loosing the word calfouti!! Change the name and sales should increase.

I'd like freshly deep fryed SALTED pecans in a crunchie crumble ontop of my bourbon pudding....just a thought.

I think it's the red wine poached pears that's doing in your poundcake. Personally I'd use a sweeter white wine or make it a compote/salsa and add cinnamon(or any flavor) ice cream and the cake.

Last, try buying in a raspberry puree. Some brands are very thick and it would simplify your time. I'd guess that changing this wouldn't be more expensive then what your currently doing.

I'm hoping to be helpful, not witchy. It sounds like your doing well and thinking fast on your feet. Whenever you can do prep that will hold-do it. Working in larger volumes saves you time. Like how you keep a bucket of brulee on hand. You can do the same with your pie filling or keep rolled pie crusts in the freezer, chopped bread cubes in the freezer, pear pound cake should freeze well, biscotti both baked and unbaked in the freezer......

[Toliver]

You MUST insist upon getting pellets of chocolate!

What a great idea, Sinclair! Marsha, it would save you a lot of time. Give the Chef who does the ordering some of your special truffles and then ask him to order pellets.

[alanamoana]

if you do a trio of creme brulee for t-giving, why don't you do pumpkin? it's fairly easy to use your already prepared brulee/bread pudding base and add some pumpkin puree (fresh or canned) and some pumpkin type spices (change it up and make it a little more fun) bake as you would.

use the cranberries in a tart or something (you can use dried cranberries too). i think maury rubin has a cranberry tart that has all kinds of dried fruit and caramelized nuts in it. sounds like something you can do and still be considered southern style.

there are hundreds of ideas i'm sure people have, but i'm thinking about how much time you're spending there and what would make sense with your production schedule.

oh yes, please get the pistoles! barry/callebaut milk chocolate and try the e. guittard for bittersweet and white. they have a signature series which is inexpensive and very good for general use (almost everything). i don't like their milk chocolate (guittard) because it is malty tasting (this is my opinion). i like barry/callebaut for milk chocolate. everyone is right in thinking that the amount of time and labor you save more than makes up for the small extra cost of getting pistoles!

have fun!

[zilla369]

Toliver beat me to a couple remarks I was going to make.

I ditto him on soaking your raisins. Even if you only use boiling h20 they're better soaked then dry. You also can keep a small bucket of bourbon raisins ready to go.

This is a great suggestion - although i really prefer the dried cherries - but there's no reason i can't soak the cherries in bourbon, yes? Does the bourbon have to be warmed first?

You MUST insist upon getting pellets of chocolate! By the time you chop your blocks the wasted time is no savings!

Definitely going to look into this. How big are these "pistoles" or pellets? I don't think i've ever seen anyone using them. If anything can keep me from chopping chocolate as much as i am, i'm all for it. I think Chef would go for it as well, if it saved me time - depending on the price difference, of course. Anyone have any idea what the general price difference might be?

One of my favorite simple tricks on pie crusts is baking them upside down. Trust me you'll be happy with your results. Assuming your using tins (glass plates won't work)....place your dough in the tin then place another tin into it, invert and bake inverted. Your crust bakes very evenly this way and the sides can't slouch down.

OMG, if this works it will change my LIFE! I've been using black beans on parchment paper for blind baking, and what a time-consuming drag that is. I'm going to try it this weekend!

I think it's the red wine poached pears that's doing in your poundcake. Personally I'd use a sweeter white wine or make it a compote/salsa and add cinnamon(or any flavor) ice cream and the cake.

Maybe i wasn't clear on this... the pears within the cake itself are just regular diced yellow pears. The side garnish is half a poached pear fanned out...and though these are poached in red wine, there's also plenty of sugar and cinnamon sticks in the poaching liquid. They're nicely sweet, and a gorgeous purple color on the outside, fading to a delicate yellow towards the middle of the slices. Really a pretty presentation. *Sigh*...i think folks are just afraid of pears.

Last, try buying in a raspberry puree. Some brands are very thick and it would simplify your time. I'd guess that changing this wouldn't be more expensive then what your currently doing.

Well, here's the thing. The bourbon-marinated berries i use in the berry "napolean" start to break down and/or get foamy (i.e., begin to ferment) after only a few service shifts, so i need to recycle them anyway. I don't think a puree would make as complex a tasting sauce. You're right; lot of work, though.

if you do a trio of creme brulee for t-giving, why don't you do pumpkin? it's fairly easy to use your already prepared brulee/bread pudding base and add some pumpkin puree (fresh or canned) and some pumpkin type spices (change it up and make it a little more fun) bake as you would.

Actually, the reason i thought of cranberry rather than pumpkin for the brulee trio is that i already plan to serve pumpkin pie and/or pumpkin cheesecake on the Thanksgiving menu. Also, i figured that sweet potato brulee and pumpkin brulee would be awfully close in color.

Thanks again, everyone for your ideas and suggestions. Especially that baking the pie crusts upside down one, Wendy!

[mckayinutah]

Hello Zilla,

Pistoles, or pellets, are basically anywhere from 1/4 " to 1/2 " round ( give or take alittle ) I, like everyone has said, believe these are your best bet, especially if you are going through the large amount of chocolate you say you are going through. A little more expensive, but definitelt worth it in the long run.

I am presently using a Callebaut dark chocolate pistole that I love, and I pay about $3.93/pound

( which isn't to shabby for a taste that I like ) You could probably shop around and find some cheaper stuff, but this is about the average cost for Callebaut in pistole form.

Good luck,

McKay ( JASON McCARTHY )

[Varmint]

Zilla, you may want to experiment a bit, but if you grease your pie tins well, you should be able to make a crustless chess pie. That's what I do when I need to whip together a quick dessert.

[tan319]

Hello Zilla,

Pistoles, or pellets, are basically anywhere from 1/4 " to 1/2 " round ( give or take alittle ) I, like everyone has said, believe these are your best bet, especially if you are going through the large amount of chocolate you say you are going through. A little more expensive, but definitelt worth it in the long run.

I am presently using a  Callebaut dark chocolate pistole that I love, and I pay about $3.93/pound

( which isn't to shabby for a taste that I like ) You could probably shop around and find some cheaper stuff, but this is about the average cost for Callebaut in pistole form.

Good luck,

McKay  ( JASON McCARTHY )

Zilla,

Cocoa Noel also makes a pistole that will cost you maybe a bit less? Italco carrie's the brand.

The savings in Labour ( not to mention all the stuff that get's lost on the cutting board) will make it worth it.

BTW, are you doing all this stuff solo?

No Assistant? No help?

Cause 192 on a Satuday night is a hellavu lot of covers !

Glad you're rocking it up!

[zilla369]

BTW, are you doing all this stuff solo?

No Assistant? No help?

Cause 192 on a Satuday night is a hellavu lot of covers !

Glad you're rocking it up!

All me, except on my day off, the other pantry people plate my desserts, but i try to make sure they don't have to produce anything, just plate stuff. No help to speak of (except the odd "hey, your cream is boiling!") and certainly no assistant.

Out of 190, according to records, only about 60 people would normally order desserts, but last Saturday that 190 included a wedding rehearsal dinner of 50 that all had dessert, plus about 45 others from the general diners, i think.

How do you pronounce "pistole", anyway?

[tan319]

BTW, are you doing all this stuff solo?

No Assistant? No help?

Cause 192 on a Satuday night is a hellavu lot of covers !

Glad you're rocking it up!

All me, except on my day off, the other pantry people plate my desserts, but i try to make sure they don't have to produce anything, just plate stuff. No help to speak of (except the odd "hey, your cream is boiling!") and certainly no assistant.

Out of 190, according to records, only about 60 people would normally order desserts, but last Saturday that 190 included a wedding rehearsal dinner of 50 that all had dessert, plus about 45 others from the general diners, i think.

How do you pronounce "pistole", anyway?

"Piss-Tole' or 'Piece-Tole'?

How many hours a day?

12, 13?

you're not on salary, are you?

Just curious

[Wendy DeBord]

Back-tracking, are you saying you macerate your raspberries for your naploeons, then keep that juice and recycle it into your rasp. puree?

Just some thought on that:1. when you sieve your berries it's really important to get the last bit of puree from the seeds. It's the last part of your sieving that is the thickener. Many people discard their seeds before they've gotten the best part. 2. I still swear by buying in your puree (which I only began doing this summer) already to use add some bourbon if you want a more complex flavor, because...3. Well I'm a nut about heating my berry sauces (just read Claudia Flemming is too). I seriously don't like the taste of heated berry sauces reduced. It changes their flavor completely. NOW don't ask me what those puree selling companies do to make theirs so thick (they probaby reduce them) but the cooked taste isn't pronouced in them like home made-they taste like fresh berries. ZIlla your time is money and it could be a savings to them to buy in puree. Then you enhanse for you complex flavor off that base.

Any price difference in the pistole is probably going to be a savings in the end when they distract your time from processing chocolate. ALSO- don't let any job hurt you! People get stupid injuries from repetitive labor.

Heating the liquid before you soak something dried in it penetrates the fruit better/much quicker too.

For Thanksgiving a couple thoughts:

Most people will eat pumpkin pie regardless of other choices on this day. For those that just don't like pumpkin a chocolate dessert will be your next best seller. I personally believe that doing a pumpkin cheesecake or brulee (be it sweet potato or pumpkin) are too similar in taste and texture to pumpkin pie ie. redundent. Don't forget apple pie- that's also a tradition at TG.

If you really want to rake up sales do a tart/pie samplier and include pumpkin, apple and chocolate. I believe that will even out sell straight pumpkin pie on TG.

[zilla369]

How many hours a day?

12, 13?

you're not on salary, are you?

Just curious

11 to 13 hours a day.

You'll all yell at me, but i get there about 12 - 12:30 and don't clock in on the Squirrel until 2:30, because i know they are nervous about paying overtime. So i get paid for about an 8 hour day and one hour of overtime.

[zilla369]

Back-tracking, are you saying you macerate your raspberries for your naploeons, then keep that juice and recycle it into your rasp. puree?

i save the whole thing - bourbon-and-sugar marinated berries that are either beginning to foam or are disintegrating too much to look attractive on the napoleon.

I cook the whole thing until reduced.

Then i puree and run through a small-hole china cap, and then the results of that i run through a chinois.

[KarenS]

You know that is illegal; you must be paid for all the time you work. Your restaurant could be liable (fined, and forced to pay all back wages). Be very careful- plus, don't give away your labor!

[KarenS]

I make berry purees by cooking half of the berries with sugar until thickened (I do this with fresh and frozen), I dump the cooked onto the fresh/ frozen and burr mix and strain (chinois). I always add salt and some kind of acid to balance (lemon juice, etc..). Your sauce will be thick and shiney, with good color- plus depth and a fresh taste.

[tan319]

How many hours a day?

12, 13?

you're not on salary, are you?

Just curious

11 to 13 hours a day.

You'll all yell at me, but i get there about 12 - 12:30 and don't clock in on the Squirrel until 2:30, because i know they are nervous about paying overtime. So i get paid for about an 8 hour day and one hour of overtime.

Ypu'll get tired of that soon enough...

[mckayinutah]

You know that is illegal; you must be paid for all the time you work. Your restaurant could be liable (fined, and forced to pay all back wages). Be very careful- plus, don't give away your labor!

Unfortunately, if you are not allowed overtime and the work to do takes more than 40 hours a week or 8 hours a day, you are up the creek without a paddle if you don't work off the clock. Been there, done that.

McKay ( JASON McCARTHY )

[mckayinutah]

Hello Zilla,

Pistoles, or pellets, are basically anywhere from 1/4 " to 1/2 " round ( give or take alittle ) I, like everyone has said, believe these are your best bet, especially if you are going through the large amount of chocolate you say you are going through. A little more expensive, but definitelt worth it in the long run.

I am presently using a  Callebaut dark chocolate pistole that I love, and I pay about $3.93/pound

( which isn't to shabby for a taste that I like ) You could probably shop around and find some cheaper stuff, but this is about the average cost for Callebaut in pistole form.

Good luck,

McKay  ( JASON McCARTHY )

Zilla,

Cocoa Noel also makes a pistole that will cost you maybe a bit less? Italco carrie's the brand.

The savings in Labour ( not to mention all the stuff that get's lost on the cutting board) will make it worth it.

BTW, are you doing all this stuff solo?

No Assistant? No help?

Cause 192 on a Satuday night is a hellavu lot of covers !

Glad you're rocking it up!

Ted,

I can beat this. Worked at a hourly job that did 450 - 500 covers on a Saturday with about 110 -120 desserts sold, no help whatsever on production, but pantry did plate up at night. I also had to make sure I had desserts for Sunday brunch ( another 450 -500 covers) Sunday night dinner ( 125 -150 covers) Monday lunch ( 100 covers) and Monday dinner ( 125- 150 covers), since I was off Sundays and Mondays. I averaged about 25% desserts sales during these service periods. So working 40 hours a week was basically a dream I had while I slept.

McKay ( JASON McARTHY )

[zilla369]

You know that is illegal; you must be paid for all the time you work. Your restaurant could be liable (fined, and forced to pay all back wages). Be very careful- plus, don't give away your labor!

I should mention that no one's asked me to do this. And i'm sure it will get old eventually. I don't plan to do it forever - but the restaurant is new and so am I.

Actually, i'm not even sure they're aware i'm doing it. I mean, obviously Chef knows i'm coming in before shift starts at 2:30. He's the first one there and the last one out. But I don't know that he realizes i'm not clocking in when i first get there.

**********

Lemon juice! Will that make my berry puree shiny? It tastes fabulous, but the lack of shine was puzzling me. Thanks!

[tan319]

If you want to shine up your puree, add a bit of a liquor, spirit that is either neutral or will add something to it.

It will shine up nice!

Edited October 23, 2003 by tan319 (log)

[bripastryguy]

Zilla,

I had the chance to work with a very talented Chef, Jeffrey Buben at Vidalia. I wa sshort lived as the pastry chef but got some great pointers from an older southern lady.

We had on the menu:

Lemon Chess Pie with Stewed huckle berries and double cream

Hazelnut shortcake with red berries (ye, I know)

Chocolate Density with Nutella Ice cream

Pecan Pie with Vanilla Ice cream (ye, i know)

my contribution: Sweet Potato Brownie with Buttermilk Ice Cream, homemade marshmallows and molasses caramel

The brownie is killer, want the recipe?

[tan319]

BPG,

Jeffrey Buben at Vidalia! Was that in DC?

Always heard Buben was a killer

Did he throw anything at you?

Hope everything is great with you!

[zilla369]

The brownie is killer, want the recipe?

Brian: I would love it!

Two reviews came out today: Louisville Courier-Journal, 3.5 stars, and Robin Garr's Louisville Hot Bytes, 4 stars, 90 out of a possible 100.

Since both these reviews were published today, we were slammed, with 201 covers. I sold 89 desserts, or 45% dessert penetration. What's the norm in fine dining? Naturally, i'll shoot for higher, but i was curious what a normal average is.