What to eat and where to eat it

[RickBehl]

Hi,

I've read so much about the great food in Mexico but was wondering if anyone

had personal recommendations on what to eat (regional specialities) and where

to eat them (which towns/ restaurants/ street stalls/ etc).

I have the Lonely Planet World Food Mexico which is a great reference guide but

I'm sure some of you must have your favourite restaurants/street stalls.

I plan to be travelling around Central to South Mexico, probably taking in Mexico

City, Zacatecas, Guanajuato, Oaxaca, and some of the Western coastal areas.

Thanks in advance,

RickBehl

[ExtraMSG]

I'd suggest getting the book A Cook's Tour of Mexico. It has it's limitations, but it's a great starter. Plus, it has great recipes. One of the nice things is that the recipes are separated by where they're from, more or less, so you have an idea of what some of the specialties are that way, too. But it'll even give little fondas and markets, not just restaurants, which is nice. It's a relatively inexpensive book that's not too hard to find used, too:

Amazon Link

My main suggestion would be to look for the out of the ordinary.

Since you're from the UK or Ireland, apparently (just guessing from your profile), I don't know that you have much of a chance to get familiar with taqueria food like we can in many parts of the United States. So it may all be new to you.

If you go to Mexico City and Guadalajara (the latter isn't on your list, but it's a *fabulous* city, much nicer in many ways than Mexico City), you should definitely take time to go to the Mercado Merced and Mercado Libertad. They're huge and interesting in their own right, but the fondas there have a nice variety of foods. Hygiene can be an issue, of course, so definitely go to a busy place.

Some of the best tacos in Mexico City that I found were outside one of the central metro stations -- I wish I could remember which one, maybe Bellas Artes, Hidalgo, or Juarez -- and outside the bull ring during matches. I think the antojito options in Mexico City are great. A lot of variety. I also got the huaraches and the mamelas. They're like Mexican pizzas. I like them better than tlacoyas, but you should try them, too.

If you haven't ever tried squash blossom or huitlacoche, do so. Each have very distinct flavors and are great on huaraches or in quesadillas.

Some basics you should try, especially if you get somewhere they're a specialty, are Michoacan carnitas and al pastor. They're probably two of the more universal styles of pork. Careful with the al pastor, though. The cooking method can lend itself to discomfort for you if it's not a busy place.

[fifi]

When in Mexico City do try to go to a traditional Mexican "lunch" at Arroyo. As we pulled in, there was this huge multi-tierd fountain with water splashing on the most amazing display of peppers of all colors and shapes... very artfully arranged. This place has huge elevated cooking "pits" where leg of lamb is cooked in those big agave leaves. They also have big cauldrons where chicharones are fried as well as fried pork roast! Don't get afraid of the lard. The pork is succulent and wonderful and not fatty at all. You start off with a leisurely selection of starters, add some tequila samplings. Then a traditional "folklorico" show starts. As that is winding down, the main course appears. It is a delightful place and not a tourist was in site. I was priveleged to be taken there by a Mexico City colleague. Traditionally, we got there about 1:00 and didn't leave until about 4:00! They dropped my overstuffed, tequila laced body at the hotel and WENT BACK TO WORK!

edit to add: Don't forget to eat the corn on the cob wherever you go. It is a revelation... not the insipid "sweet corn" we swoon over but REAL CORN. You can get it with lime and chile powder which is what I recommend. Some vendors will have the mayonaise option. (Don't knock it.)

Edited October 1, 2003 by fifi (log)

[caroline]

I second the recommendation of Nancy Zavlasky's book. She's particularly good on low end food. Street food has already been mentioned. Carnitas are heaven, so is barbacoa or birria.

For a meal that is often surprising good for about 3 or 4 dollars and a real slice of Mexican life, try the comida corrida offered by hundreds of small restaurants at 2 or 3 in the afternoon. It's usually home-cooked and will consist of a wet soup (usually a crema which is a cream of vegetable soup without cream), a dry soup (usually rice or thin noodles), a small meat dish (chicken in some kind of sauce, stuffed chiles, etc), and a small dessert (flan, flan and flan again, or gelatina or canned guavas or such). Look for where office workers or government workers are pouring in.

Sanborns everywhere offers middle of the road food but it's where you can find BOOKS and MAGAZINES and MAPS. And it's a place to observe the ladies who lunch (actually almorzar, the big late breakfast) and the men who power breakfast. Another slice of Mexican life.

The restaurants that you will find under the arcades in every colonial town square tend to be relatively expensive and relatively bad though of course they're great for people watching.

Shopping malls (I know, you're not coming to Mexico for shopping malls but they too are part of Mexican life) usually have their food courts which offer a fascinating glimpse into what is fashionable among the young as far as foreign food is concerned and very often an excellent Mexican stand offered such standbys as chicharron en salsa rojo or verde, carne de res en salsa de chile pasilla, nopales, rajas de chile poblano plus tortillas or bread and a safe agua fresca (fresh fruit drink) for 4 or 5 dollars.

Bakeries turn out great rolls and empanadas though their sweet goods are not so attractive to UK tastes.

Many town squares have their fresh nieves made that morning in an astonishing range of flavors. I have my doubts about the water but haven't had a problem yet.

High end restaurants are tucked away everywhere often not easily visible. Many, of course, don't serve Mexican food. Argentinian (ie steak house), Italian, and Japanese are favorites. Those that do serve Mexican food are often lovely places to while away an afternoon with good service and delightful surroundings (fountains, lawns, peacocks, etc etc).

Guanajuato's not the best town for food as its inhabitants readily admit. The best high end restaurant is Nicole's owned by a French woman who's lived here for years. The NY Times described it as "stylized Mexican food" and not like the tacquerias in the US. One more count against the NYT I'd say.

Mexico City has great restaurants. Traditionally Mexico was not a restaurant culture and the restaurants were largely foreign ones so I won't mention those. But new Mexican ones appear all the time. I know those in the south best and it's well worth visiting Coyoacan and San Angel. The venerable San Angel Inn, although some people say it's not what it once was, is so lovely that it's worth it. There's a similar place in Tlalpan but the name escapes me for a minute. And a less expensive place on the main square in San Angel a great center for exploring this lovely old colonial village. In the center, several chefs have opened restaurants in the last few years promoting New Mexican or Traditional Mexican cooking.

Have a great time,

Rachel

[RickBehl]

Thanks for the comprehensive responses !

Out of interest I posted the same question on the Lonely Planet bulletin board a couple of weeks ago and got some great responses there too. The link for that thread is:

http://thorntree.lonelyplanet.com/messagep...rentid=0&from=1

Thanks again,

Rick

[ExtraMSG]

Just make sure you report back, Rick. Post it not just here, but everywhere -- Chowhound, Lonely Planet, epinions, etc. It's been really tough trying to get solid recommendations for my upcoming trip to Mazatlan.

[Jaymes]

It's been really tough trying to get solid recommendations for my upcoming trip to Mazatlan.

Well, I thought about posting MY recommendations for Mazatlán. But to be brutally frank, after rereading very carefully your request for information, decided not to take the risk.

[ExtraMSG]

Well, I thought about posting MY recommendations for Mazatlán. But to be brutally frank, after rereading very carefully your request for information, decided not to take the risk.

I am a bit picky. I just don't like touristy places unless they're exceptional, like a hotel restaurant with a Mexican born chef who went and studied in France, worked at a Michelin starred restaurant, and came back to take his native cuisine up a couple notches. That'd be cool. The Trotter's in Cabo sounds like it might be trying to do that. Plus, I have access to all the guidebooks.

When I went to Puerto Vallarta, all the guidebooks and people would say places like Fajita Republic and Cafe Ollas. They were decent for what they were, but what they were was really Tex-Mex and Americanized Mexican. I can get that where it was born. If I'm going to Mexico, I want to eat regional, authentic Mexican food. I'm not picky about what kind. A good Oaxacan restaurant in Mazatlan? Cool. A good Mexican seafood restaurant. Bueno. A street vendor or fonda serving tasty antojitos. Excelente. I just want the real stuff. It took me a couple days of looking at menus and asking around in PV before I was able to find some.

[chefrodrigo]

Rick,

If you are going to be in Oaxaca City you have to go to a village close by called "Teotitlan del Valle". There is a restaurant there called Tlamallani (sp?) that is run by several sisters and they make Zapotec food. It is supposed to be an amazing place.

I was in the village several years ago but didn't make it to the restaurant. I've been kicking myself ever since.

I've got to get back there soon.

Rodney

[guajolote]

Rick,

If you are going to be in Oaxaca City you have to go to a village close by called "Teotitlan del Valle".  There is a restaurant there called Tlamallani (sp?) that is run by several sisters and they make Zapotec food.  It is supposed to be an amazing place.

I was in the village several years ago but didn't make it to the restaurant.  I've been kicking myself ever since.

I've got to get back there soon.

Rodney

Definately go there. Best Mexican food I've ever had. They still process their masa and chilies on a metate. They also make there own Mezcal.

[fredbram]

Rick,

If you are going to be in Oaxaca City you have to go to a village close by called "Teotitlan del Valle".  There is a restaurant there called Tlamallani (sp?) that is run by several sisters and they make Zapotec food.  It is supposed to be an amazing place.

I was in the village several years ago but didn't make it to the restaurant.  I've been kicking myself ever since.

I've got to get back there soon.

Rodney

It is actually called Tlamanali. We were there last April, and went out to the village, but they were closed all week for Semana Santa (holy week). We bought a nice rug in town, but I missed the restaurant.

[marlena spieler]

My daughter is volunteering in a resort/village/clinic an hour and a half north of Puerto Vallarta. Any ideas of specialities, restaurants, etc that she shouldn't miss........

and her mama, too, if she manages to make her way there.......

gracias!

Marlena

[ExtraMSG]

My daughter is volunteering in a resort/village/clinic an hour and a half north of Puerto Vallarta. Any ideas of specialities, restaurants, etc that she shouldn't miss......

I assume you'll be somewhere in southern Nayarit, then. I'm not too familiar with their specialties. The regions around it are probably more famous for their food, especially Jalisco and a little bit farther south Michoacan. Kennedy talks about having some good oyster dishes in Nayarit and a shrimp tamal. With Jalisco and Michoacan nearby, birria and barbacoa and even Michoacan carnitas might be worth a try. In both Guadalajara and Pueverto Vallarta I got really good molcajetes filled with a nice sauce and whatever meats or fish you're interested in (and usually some nopales). Mazatlan up north of where you are is known for its shrimp, so I'm sure that whole coastline is probably pretty good for the jumbo seabugs. Ceviche is a standard up and down the coast. I don't know if you'll be inland or not, but always check freshness. When I was in PV, most of the street vendors were doing pretty typical stuff, even if it was good -- quesadillas con queso, tacos de carne asada, and the like.

[marlena spieler]

gracias, ExtraMSG, I'd better buy that plane ticket right now. man, the one thing that europe lacks is good mexican food!

i haven't been to guadaljarah in such a long time but just hearing your sweet words of descriptions combined with the magic word: nopales.......brings it all back in a rush of sensual feelings.

just the smell of the air, and things sort of cooking in the outdoors...........

thanks again,

m

[ExtraMSG]

gracias, ExtraMSG, I'd better buy that plane ticket right now. man, the one thing that europe lacks is good mexican food!

i haven't been to guadaljarah in such a long time but just hearing your sweet words of descriptions combined with the magic word: nopales.......brings it all back in a rush of sensual feelings.

just the smell of the air, and things sort of cooking in the outdoors...........

thanks again,

m

I have in depth descriptions of my trips to both Guadalajara and Puerto Vallarta on this board in their respective threads, too, btw.

I don't know about where you are (UK or Ireland, I assume), but here, airline prices to Mexico are relatively cheap right now. I bought tickets to Mazatlan on a whim because they were so cheap, about 40% lower than normal. Maybe you can find a deal as well.