The Quest for the Perfect Chicken

[fifi]

There are several threads on the quest for the epitome of the roasted or otherwise cooked chicken. There is a lot of attention to detail. We have spatchcocked it, trussed it, covered it with clay domes, exposed it to low heat, high heat, and countless variations on that theme. Where is this fanaticism for the perfect chicken grounded? This fixation may be second only to the perfect steak. Why do we continue to search for the Holy Grail of the chicken. I mean... this is a relatively unassuming bird that is cheap to aquire, relatively easy to cook, if in a mediocre way... yet it continues to capture our fascination.

I intend for this thread to address the "why?" not the techniques. Recipes and techniques belong on the other threads. What I want to know is why we (including me) are so fanatical on this subject?

Let me say now... I personally just like good chicken. (Now, there is a scientific piece of data.)

[Jinmyo]

Uh.

People like chicken?

It is pretty far down my list after steak, steak, prime rib, steak, pork loin chop, steak, roast pork loin with ribs, steak, bacon, steak, rack of lamb, steak, uni, steak, salmon skin to scoop up rice, steak, pork shoulder, steak, roast leg of lamb, steak, a perfect poached quail egg, seared rare liver and onions and steak.

But people like chicken.

[fifi]

Jin... I agree with your reply. My heirarchy would be more like... steak, smoked pork, pork in any form, bacon... but I still have this fascination with producing the perfect chicken. INSANE.

[elyse]

I find I can eat more chicken than beef or pork on a daily basis. Beef and pork make my muscles feel full or toxified.

[tommy]

chicken done well has actually moved me.

perhaps i'm in the minority.

[Richard Kilgore]

It's because bland, tasteless mass-produced chicken is such a huge challenge! And if there is one thing eGulleteers seem to like, it's a culinary challenge.

I may have missed it, but I don't think we have addressed the type of chicken we use. CI did a typically detailed study of which chickens make the best stock, and there testers all found your standard grocery store chicken pretty worthless. They could easily tell the difference between 1) the typical bird and 2) Kosher chickens and other premium chickens running $2 - 3 per pound.

But here I am straying off the subject. You asked WHY. so - 1) the challenge, as noted above. 2) Because we have chickens imprinted in our DNA from thousands of years of chasing them around bushes while trying to survive. 3) We are working out the trauma of way too many rubber chicken dinners earlier in our lives. 4) Our mothers fed us chicken, and we're out to prove she made the right choice even if she didn't know how to cook it. 5) Because it's good, but could be better. 6) Because all of us have been standing around just waiting for the opportunity to say "spatchcock!"

[tommy]

CI did a typically detailed study of which chickens make the best stock, and there testers all found your standard grocery store chicken pretty worthless.

i've made a very nice meal out of those 5 dollar chickens with a little butter, herb, and TLC. and sides.

but i don't make stock.

Edited September 28, 2003 by tommy (log)

[Richard Kilgore]

Tommy - I guess I should go back and edit my post to say that was my point: if they make better stock, they also make better roast chicken. There, I said it.

[tommy]

Tommy - I guess I should go back and edit my post to say that was my point: if they make better stock, they also make better roast chicken. There, I said it.

i dunno about that. 5 bucks makes me a good meal. there, i said it too.

[fifi]

I am leaning toward Richard's 4, 5 and 6. Especially 6. (spatchcock, spatchcock, spatchcock... )

On point 4 and 5, Could it be that the peculiar mix of proteins subjected to Maillard reactions is just irresistable? (Maybe I have been reading too much McGee.) I do know that turkey just doesn't do it for me like a chicken. The cheapest, facotry farmed chicken will beat out a turkey for me, any time.

[Jinmyo]

I don't consider turkey to be edible.

Good roast chicken has a succulence, a delightful contrast and yet balance between the crispness of the skin and the smoothness of the flesh.

Duck and goose, while more than edible (delicious) are not like this.

Quail and smaller birds also lack the balance that can be achieved with a roast chicken.

But ultimately, it comes down to spatchcocking and the speaking of it.

[elyse]

But here I am straying off the subject. You asked WHY. so - 1) the challenge, as noted above. 2) Because we have chickens imprinted in our DNA from thousands of years of chasing them around bushes while trying to survive. 3) We are working out the trauma of way too many rubber chicken dinners earlier in our lives. 4) Our mothers fed us chicken, and we're out to prove she made the right choice even if she didn't know how to cook it. 5) Because it's good, but could be better. 6) Because all of us have been standing around just waiting for the opportunity to say "spatchcock!"

I disagree. But I'm speaking as a chicken lover (not the South Park type) who's had good chicken to pretty amazing chicken. The only awful chicken has been mucked up with herbs and such.

I do agree with your spatchcock theory, though.

[woodburner]

I have a local grower that raises free range Chickens and Turkey's. He also raises a breed of chicken that matures at 15lbs, which are succulent.

Small in size, the turkey output from the farm is about 800 or so. I'm also in the corner in reagards to supermarket birds, being just about tasteless.

woodburner

[Suzanne F]

WHY?

1. Because it is readily available and relatively inexpensive. (The practical reason)

2. Because it offers infinite opportunities for experimentation. (The artistic reason)

3. Because it offers infinite opportunities for experimentation. (The scientific reason)

4. Because it is good to eat alone, and good to share. (The social reason)

5. Because it tastes good under almost all circumstances, and feels good to eat, as Jinmyo pointed out (The REAL reason )

[fifi]

Oh my, woodburner... I want one of those 15 pound chickens! I do a coconut glazed roasted chicken that uses big chickens. The bigger the better. The best one I ever did was a bit over 9 pounds. The only ones I can get here are Butterball brand.

I will take a big chicken over a turkey any day. One thing that I notice is that chicken seems to take up any of your flavoring options. Turkey meat seems to be impervious. Maybe this kind of versatility has something to do with it. That speaks to Suzanne F's points 2, 3, and 5.

Then, of course, there is the oft used phrase of comfort when confronted with the weird... "It tastes like chicken."

[KAPDADDY]

A perfectly cooked, unseasoned turkey is FAR more enjoyable than a perfectly cooked, unseasoned chicken IMO. Turkey has more natural flavor than chicken does. Chicken meat needs help to elevate it to the level of turkey meat.

[fifi]

Uh... Where do you get such a turkey? Other than fried or smoked, I have never met a turkey I liked. Well... There was that wild turkey that a friend shot.

[fifi]

Equip yourself to cook a chicken

Yes, you can spend $522.45 to cook a chicken!

[KAPDADDY]

We get our turkey from Alexander Family Farm in Del Valle, Texas. It is more expensive than other turkeys, but it's worth it for the few times a year when you want something really special.

Here's a link: Turkey

[snowangel]

My kids would all say that the quest for the perfect chicken has everything to do with chicken skin

I say for all of the reasons SuzanneF gave.

[slkinsey]

I think it's probably because it is so simple. It is relatively easy to make a good roast chicken and yet can be incredibly difficult to make an excellent roast chicken. Starting with great chicken can make a big difference. But, on the other hand, certain techniques can elevate meidocre chicken. So it is a cooking task with a lot of little variables with which we can tinker. There are also built-in challenges. Primary among them will always be the problem of preserving a moist breast and yet cooking the legs completely. Many of us understand that the most effective way of achieving this is to cook the legs and breast separately... but that wouldn't really be a challenge, would it? I think many of us appreciate the challenge of tinkering with all the little details that separate mediocre roast chicken from good roast chicken from awesome roast chicken. Now... I definitely like steak and double-cut pork chops better than roast chicken. But, as long as I start with quality ingredients, it's a lot easier to cook an amazing steak than it is to cook an amazing roast chicken.

FWIW, I don't think this kind of interest is reserved only for roast chicken. One can find similar discussions about other relatively simple cooking tasks such as making hamburgers and omelets.

[marie-louise]

chicken done well has actually moved me. 

perhaps i'm in the minority.

Count me in that minority, too.

My answer: because I have eaten the chicken at Zuni. Judy Roger's cookbook has brought my home-cooked chicken closer to perfection (although I'll leave the multi-step bread salad for the restaurant.)

[bloviatrix]

I mean... this is a relatively unassuming bird that is cheap to aquire, relatively easy to cook, if in a mediocre way... yet it continues to capture our fascination.

fifi, I think you answered your own question. Chicken is reasonably priced and it's plentiful. Because of the price, people are willing to experiment. There isn't the same fear of screwing up a chicken as there is with messing up a prime cut of beef.

As others have said, it's good eaten alone or with friends. If you're making a chicken for one or two people, you're guaranteed left-overs for a future meal.

And then there's the taste issue. A perfectly roasted chicken is a thing of beauty. The taste of the meat. And the crispy skin. Even the necks are a delight to munch on.

[foodie52]

OMG... I had the BEST chicken stock the other night at a cooking class. And I can't believe I 'm saying this, because I was raised on chicken soup, made the classic old-world Jewish way, with celery and onion and carrot in the pot. I was literally ASHAMED at how much I enjoyed it.... It was made by Matt McMillin who is coowner of these restaurants in Texas called Big Bowl. Anyway, here goes...

Put equal amounts of fresh chicken bones, including backs, necks etc. and water into a pot with a slice of ginger and bring to a boil. When it boils, skim the foam from the surface until it disappears, then reduce to simmer, cover and cook for 3 to 4 hours.

Turn off the heat and let sit til nearly cool , then strain and refrigerate. For one gallon of stock, add 1 oz. fish sauce, 1 oz. sugar and 1 oz kosher salt.

It was rich and full-bodied, and tasted quintessentially of chicken. No veggies in there. Not even an onion.

It blew me away....

[feliciahorowitz]

Put equal amounts of fresh chicken bones, including backs, necks etc. and water into a pot with a slice of ginger and bring to a boil.  When it boils, skim the foam from the surface until it disappears, then reduce to simmer, cover and cook for 3 to 4 hours.

Turn off the heat and let sit til nearly cool , then strain and refrigerate. For one gallon of stock, add 1 oz. fish sauce, 1 oz. sugar and 1 oz kosher salt.

It was rich and full-bodied, and tasted quintessentially of chicken. No veggies in there. Not even an onion.

It blew me away....

Any special brand of fish sauce?