'Think it'll rain

[Florida Jim]

The Louisiana Purchase is the best restaurant in Banner Elk, NC; some (and I include myself in this number) would say the best restaurant in the area. Mark Rosse is owner and executive chef.

Last night, a gang of us gathered at Mark’s home for dinner, wine and to celebrate one of the first days in a long time without rain – so, of course, as soon as we were gathered, it rained.

The Watauga river runs through his backyard and it was already swollen from weeks of precipitation. As the evening wore on, it turned a muddy brown – a sure sign of current run-off. But the sound of rushing water was a great backdrop to the festivities.

Actually, Mark’s place is an old fishing lodge converted to a residence. Lots of windows and doors, a deck overlooking the river (even a tree growing through the deck providing shade, or in this instance, cover) sitting in the middle of 600 acres of state and privately owned forest. When you come up the drive, you ford a stream that feeds the Watauga. ‘Quite a place.

The organic farmer’s market had provided most of our dinner including fresh chanterelles, fingerling potatoes, pole beans, baby carrots and fresh corn. Along side a rack of lamb and some grilled Copper River salmon, it was a feast.

In no particular order, the wines served were:

1995 Moncuit, Cuvee Nicole Moncuit Champagne: this is a full flavored, bone dry expression of the variety and it was fabulous. Served ice cold, there was still plenty of mousse and great mouth presence. Great wine for about $40.

1996 Clos des Lambrays: others enjoyed this much more than me; in its favor was good complexity on the nose and palate and plenty of earth tones; to its detriment I found it austere, almost severe in the mouth and a little short. Interesting, but not fascinating.

2000 Gaja (the new one from the area nest to where Sassicia produces – starts with an M): I’m told this is about 70% Sangiovese with the remainder a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot; whatever, this wine is deep, pure, ripe, smooth, rich and perfectly in balance. An absolute delight that, although showing young, was without question the WOTN.

2000 Lamborgini, Campeleone: I just don’t get it; I tried, I just don’t; its not unpleasant, its not over-the-top, its not over-wooded, and, its not even a little interesting – I’m sure I’m missing something and I have no idea how its made but, I wish they’d stop it. The only impression I have of it was that it was formulaic.

For dessert, Diane had made a brown sugar and yogurt-cheese tart with a pecan crust and a blackberry sauce that included a bit of the wine that was served with it:

1972 Bodegas Toro Albala, Pedro Ximenez Gran Reserva (375): there is just no description of this juice that does it justice – motor oil, immense concentration, syrup – you pick’em. An intense and beautiful mouthful that matched the tart to perfection.

It cleared up in time for the drive home.

Thankfully.

Best, Jim

[Carema]

FJ:

It is Magari I think. Black triangley label. They also have a blueberry pie meets tannin meets acid, the Promis which incorporates a little syrah. I have held for awhile now that Gaja's tuscan stuff is very exciting and new and intense and wonderful. The Sugarille brunello (1997) is not a bad thing either. I am with you on the Lamborghini stuff- such short uninviting finishes (where the hell did it go???). In Chicago too all summer it has been raining. Our cucumbers are the size of rolling pins and we cannot pick them fast enough. Tonight the air is ripe with dark stormy clouds, mosquitoes carrying the west Nile virus and humidity. The neighborhood skunk has been quite active. I keep meaning to bring home a bottle of the Domaine Tempier Bandol rouge to compare scents...

[Florida Jim]

FJ:

It is Magari I think. Black triangley label. They also have a blueberry pie meets tannin meets acid, the Promis which incorporates a little syrah. I have held for awhile now that Gaja's tuscan stuff is very exciting and new and intense and wonderful. The Sugarille brunello (1997) is not a bad thing either. I am with you on the Lamborghini stuff- such short uninviting finishes (where the hell did it go???). In Chicago too all summer it has been raining. Our cucumbers are the size of rolling pins and we cannot pick them fast enough. Tonight the air is ripe with dark stormy clouds, mosquitoes carrying the west Nile virus and humidity. The neighborhood skunk has been quite active. I keep meaning to bring home a bottle of the Domaine Tempier Bandol rouge to compare scents...

That black triangley label is the one. Yum.

Your comment on the Sugarille reminds of the 1988 Pieve Santa Restutita, Brunello, that I recently finished my last bottle of. That was before they vineyard designated but (I think) it was the first year Gaja was involved with that operation. Mighty fine.

Somehow, I think the folks at Tempier would understand . . .

Best, Jim

[klinger75]

Jim,

Another great one.

The 1972 PX from Toro Albala is a truly wonderful wine and your description is right on. One of my favorites

In regards to the Lamborghini: I don't get it either!

Regards,

Klinger