Returned from France/Italy vacation

[gruyere]

My wife and I recently returned to Montreal from a vacation to France (Paris and Provence) and Italy (Florence and the Tuscan countryside). Egulleters and egullet threads were a most helpful resource, providing intimate knowledge that even the most thorough of guidebooks would have difficulty in equaling. I am posting some of our experiences here (and in the Italian thread for that part of the trip) as a means of saying thank you. I should preface my remarks by saying that I am a poor note taker and a very amateurish critic so the comments are mostly general in nature, lacking the detail of many very helpful egullet posts.

We stayed in the sixth arrondisement in a small hotel called Residence des Arts. Pascal, manager, chief front desk clerk and aspiring concierge was a treat; a wonderful young man who did everything from dishing out local advice to repairing a faulty piece of luggage.

We chose the 6ieme because our three adult children (17 to 22) were with us for the France part of the adventure. Due, in large part, to the prevalence of universities there are a lot of young people in this area (the hotel was close to Place St. Michel) and we thought it would provide a nice atmosphere for the children. We were right. The partying along rue St. Andre des Arts went on late into the night. Our only complaint with the accommodations would be that it was noisy. However, we laughed it off and ensured that the kids were well aware of the supreme sacrifice made by their parents.

The first night in Paris found us eating at Le Christine at 1, rue Christine, on the advice of Pascal. I did not have information on this resto but on our first night after the long trans-Atlantic flight we wanted something very close to the hotel. We were pleasantly surprised. Orders included fois gras, salads, cod and turbot. All dishes were very good but the cod and turbot were excellent. My guess is that they were lightly pan seared and finished in the oven. The fish was very moist and cooked to the precise point that distinguishes under-cooked from starting to become dry. The cod was surrounded by a brandade that was light, a tad creamy and very tasty.

On egullet advice dinner number two was at Chez Gramond. I did a search on Gramond in the eG France forum but without results. I was searching for who had recommended this bistro so that I could make a more personal thank-you, however I’m afraid that a more general ‘merci beaucoup’ will have to suffice.

M. and Mme. Gramond could not have been nicer. Having lived in Montreal for the past seventeen years we speak French reasonably well, with the children pretty much perfectly fluent. Mme. Gramond seemed particularly enamored when, upon her arrival at our table, we switched from our English banter to French, causing her to immediately call into the kitchen, inviting M. Gramond to join the conversation. We spoke at length and I immediately knew that this was not going to be a two-hour experience (Montreal’s definition of eat and run.) The restaurant was not busy (we arrived at 20:30) and the Gramonds were relaxed and quizzed the children on a host of issues.

It was not difficult to sense that given the menu selections, the décor and the age of the owners this is a very traditional restaurant. With that in mind we started with a kir aperitif and ordered escargots, fish soup, onion soup, guinea fowl, filet mignon, confit de canard and a dish or two that my poor note taking has missed. This was complimented by a fine 1982 Bordeaux that Mme. Gramond recommended (not cheap but fairly priced). We were all impressed by our meals with the duck (my selection) hitting that just salty enough point that I find delectable.

Once again as we were getting ready to leave after three very enjoyable hours both M. and Mme. Gramond appeared on the scene embracing the children and talking affectionately for another ten minutes or so. As we walked back to the hotel we laughed at the unpretentious nature of their offering and contrasted it with the less than hospitable reputation that is often used to describe some Parisian dining experiences; one that I frankly have not been party to, with the exception of one minor, relatively innocent, lunch encounter.

On a final note I would add that one should not confuse my description of ‘unpretentious offering’ with inexpensive. This is a quality establishment where you pay for what you get – excellent food and fine wine. It is fairly priced and good value, but not cheap.

The children ruled the roost for the next two evening meals. Our youngest is crazy about mussels and a moules-frites resto became the next selection of choice. I’m sure if we looked harder we could have found a more highly recommended establishment but there was a moules-frites restaurant called Chez Léon within easy walking distance of the hotel and off we went. I believe there are others in France and possibly Belgium by the same owners and I was consequently a little skeptical about a potentially sterile chain mentality. My skepticism was unfounded. I have had better moules-frites in Montreal but these dishes were very good. We ordered mussels in white wine (2), a curried variety and moules mariniere (2). A hearty pitcher of beer and some house white rounded out an enjoyable meal. Service was efficient although a little impersonal.

The next day the kids once again made the dinner choice and were keen on steak-frites, a choice that we all quite enjoy. We settled on Le Relais de l’Entrecote in Place St. Germain, probably not the most sophisticated of establishments but highly suitable for our family of five. Steak frites was the only menu item. The fries were delicious and the steak tender. My wife described the sauce as a combination of Dijon mustard and pesto. I declared it very good, if a little unusual by my experience, but the rest of the gang felt it was better than that. The initial serving was somewhat small but the wait staff was efficient in supplying ‘no charge’ refills as desired. Is this a common concept at Paris steak frites restos? I don’t believe it is in Montreal, where this dish is popular. However in my opinion it has merit. The house Bordeaux was good.

On day five we arrived in Nice and checked into a small boutique style hotel called Le Grimaldi. It is a very nice hotel with well-trained, helpful staff. It is at most five minutes from the beach.

This post is getting long and I will therefore stick to a few of our Provence restaurant highlights. We had a very enjoyable meal at Les Viviers in Nice. Dishes included salade Nicoise, shrimp, cod, turbot, Mediterranean sea bass and duck. All fish orders were moist, delicate and tasty, the duck was better than good but not excellent. Service however was excellent. The wait staff had that special ability to be highly attentive while not over bearing. You know the style: pretty well invisible until needed and then very much helpful in a professional way.

On day three in Provence we left the children at the beach and my wife and I did some exploring through the countryside. As a result of a post by Jonathon Day I suggested to her that we should not miss le Bistro de Mougins. We shopped and walked around Vieux Mougins for a couple of hours and thoroughly loved this little village. It is in quite an idyllic setting and I thought it would soon be full of tourists. However it was not crowded at all. As a matter of fact when we entered the bistro at about 12:30 we were the only customers. We started with a Kir as our aperitif followed by a glass of house white for my wife and red for me. Her first course was a wonderful spinach tarte, mine an equally good terrine de lapin (rabbit). For mains she had an excellent Salmon filet, I had a cuisse de canard (leg of duck). This meal set a very high standard. In fact I am a lover of duck (magret de canard, confit de canard and cuisse de canard are all favourites) and I would rank my duck at le Bistro de Mougins as one of my all time best. As well the atmosphere was very nice. They were not busy and owner, Alain, sat with one of his staff members chatting over lunch in the center of the room. Our waiter was very good. This one ranked right up there.

Unfortunately several other meals in Nice and Monaco/Monte Carlo were not very memorable. The children wanted to eat outside the Casino in Monte Carlo and although the service at Le Café de Paris was efficient, the meal was average and as expected full of tourists. We were likewise uninspired by meals at Milo’s (not to be confused or associated with similarly named restos in Montreal and NYC) and Dominique Nichol (spelling may be incorrect) in Nice.

Once again thanks to those egulleters who knowingly or unknowingly were helpful to us.

[Jonathan Day]

Gruyere, it is a pleasure to hear that you had good times at places we eGulleters recommended. Thanks for taking the time to report back.

[tanabutler]

A lovely post, Gruyere, and I can't wait to hear about the Italian places.

[John Whiting]

On egullet advice dinner number two was at Chez Gramond. I did a search on Gramond in the eG France forum but without results. I was searching for who had recommended this bistro so that I could make a more personal thank-you, however I’m afraid that a more general ‘merci beaucoup’ will have to suffice.

I wonder who this could have been. I don't remember recommending it within the context of your enquiries. Patricia Wells recommended it years ago, but no one mentions it any more, not even Pudlo. Those who appreciate it are, in my opinion, a highly select minority. My own opinion is set forth in a string of superlatives on my website: http://www.whitings-writings.com/bistro_re...ews/gramond.htm

[gruyere]

John,

These are the two posts that I am referring to:

Post 1.

Chez Gramond

5 rue de Fleuris (6e) Note: Fleuris should read Fleurus

42-22-28-89

"Only 10 tables in this tiny bistro, serviced by only the Gramonds themselves. Unflinchingly traditional, and boasting a wine list full of well-aged Bordeaux and Burgundy, Jean-Louis Gramond makes two weekly trips to the Parisian markets before settling on his nightly menu. Game in the fall is a speciality, especailly the hare stew. The Grand Marnier souffle is the best in class. If I had one meal in Paris, this would be it.”

Post 2.

“Chez Gramond in the 6th. For me, the perfect bistro experience and one of a dying breed (M. Gramond in the kitchen and Mme. Gramond in the front of the room). Prices are reasonable, save for the wine list, which is stocked entirely with aged Bordeaux and Burgundy (and priced accordingly).”

I kept a file of the posts that I was going to make reference to while we were traveling. Unfortunately I did not note the ‘poster’.

I can see your point that it may be a small group who still speak about Chez Gramond. There is no doubt that there are more inventive, imaginative alternatives out there. I hearken back to my own past when as a young, small town man I traveled to Montreal on business and was treated to dinner at Restaurant les Halles. It was the epitome of haute cuisine and sophistication in my young mind. That was twenty-seven years ago and it is still in business serving traditional fare. Today many restaurants have passed it by and are much more exciting. Now as a 17 year resident of Montreal it would be considerably down the list of my recommendations for visitors. However, it serves a loyal clientele and is still considered by some as one of the city’s better restaurants. I still personally quite enjoy it.

There are few experiences more pleasant than a new taste sensation. One where the taste buds say “Hey we’ve got to set up a new file on this one; haven’t been there before.” But at the same time old favourites still hold down an important place on my sensory hard drive. My wife’s prime rib roast with Yorkshire pudding and roasted potatoes isn’t going to win any awards for innovation but on a winter evening it is provides a delicious, belly-warming experience. I put Chez Gramond in that sort of category, but acknowledge that for many egulleters this may not be their first choice when in Paris. For our family of five it worked.

Brian L

[Bux]

There are few experiences more pleasant than a new taste sensation. One where the taste buds say “Hey we’ve got to set up a new file on this one; haven’t been there before.” But at the same time old favourites still hold down an important place on my sensory hard drive.  My wife’s prime rib roast with Yorkshire pudding and roasted potatoes isn’t going to win any awards for innovation but on a winter evening it is provides a delicious, belly-warming experience. I put Chez Gramond in that sort of category, but acknowledge that for many egulleters this may not be their first choice when in Paris. For our family of five it worked.

Brian L

I think many of us share that sensibility. There have been times when my finest memories of a trip are of the new and exciting foods I've tasted at the hands of very creative chefs, and other times when they are of some old fashioned, and maybe even rustic, food that was prepared superbly well. Sometimes it is of the food I went looking to find and sometimes it is of the other that I ran into unexpectedly. There are many restaurants that are not my first choice, but which nevertheless are necessary to visit for me to keep my balance.

[gruyere]

There are many restaurants that are not my first choice, but which nevertheless are necessary to visit for me to keep my balance.

Very well said.

Even the very exciting can lose it's appeal (oxymoron, but I think you know what I mean) if there are not meaningful benchmarks for comparison.

[John Whiting]

I can see your point that it may be a small group who still speak about Chez Gramond. There is no doubt that there are more inventive, imaginative alternatives out there.

For "highly select" you may substitute "eccentric", "recherché", or simply "old fart".

Edited August 7, 2003 by John Whiting (log)