Need casual suggestions for the Luberon

[David Bizer]

I'm leaving for the South on Sunday for a couple of days. We are staying in the Luberon about 10km south of Apt. Can anyone give me some suggestions for casual restaurants in the region? I'm specifically looking for reasonably priced places, in any of the villages. I'd prefer to eat in small places where the locals might go. If anyone has experience with Fermes-Auberges, this info would be especially appealing. Also, if anyone has suggestions on any particular vineyards, or specialty food shops/producers, I want to do some shopping for local products.

Thanks!

[oakvilleonca]

I don’t know how familiar you are with Provence but here are three sites that may help:

http://www.provenceweb.com/e/provpil.htm

http://www.visitprovence.com/servlet/esolu...ngue=2&dist=2GP

A site about Provence and France that I moderate is at:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/provence

John

[Bux]

No real experience in the area recently. A few years ago we stopped off for lunch at Bistrot d'Eygalières "Chez Bru" in Eygalières and enjoyed ourselves immensely, but it's a bit chic, got a star and not particularly inexpensive. It may not even be close enough either. "Casual" and "resonably priced" are quite subjective. I ate in my shirtsleeves or sweater (this was December) and thought it was priced fairly for what it offered. The Michelin shows 60 euros as the least expensive menu.

La Malle-Poste at 26 euros for dinner, might be interesting and possibly close enough to you. "Plats de terroir, vieilles recettes garanties accompagnés de vins de propriétaires : Papeton d’aubergine, Tarte fine à la tapenade maison, Lapin à la "pèbre d’aï", Quinquebine du Luberon, Broufado des bateliers, Soupe de pêches à la verveine , Crème brûlée à la lavande … " I have no knowledge other than what I found on the site.

Gastronomie en Luberon with links to market days, confiseurs, and a few vinyards, might be an interesting site.

[menton1]

I agree about the Fermes Auberges, but I've never found any really good ones in Provence. Most of the good ones are in the Southwest, in the Dordogne and the Lot.

The best advice is to try to stay away from the tourist haunts and go to places where the locals go. I have found many a very good restaurant that way. It's hard to remember the names, one that sticks in my mind is Le Recré in Lourmarin, even remember the pottery the food is served on there.

A nice town off the tourist track is Riez, about 6 miles from Moustiers. It will probably be hard to have a bad meal anywhere-- all the menus are posted prominently in the restaurant windows, to help you decide. Bon voyage!

[Margaret Pilgrim]

David, simple and reasonable, try:

Bonnieux: Le Fournil 04.90.75.83.62

Lourmarin: Le Récréaction 04.90.68.23.73 and Le Bistro 04.90.68.29.74

We ate out at several upscale places in Lourmarin, which we really did not enjoy much. It was too hot for formal dining and rich food. We were much better served at several almost nameless cafes where we were able to eat outside in the (relatively) cool of the evening.

Between Lourmarin and Cadenet, and untried by us but sounding intriguiing, is Le Paradou. 04.90.68.04.05

It is a small farmhouse-hotel on the Aigue Brun river. You might give them a call and see if they fill your bill. The food is reportedly quite decent, reasonable and authentic.

For a destination lunch, in addition to Bux's "Chez Bru", which we did enjoy a lot, I would add Le Bistro de Paradou (04.90.54.32.70) in, whatelse, Le Paradou, which is a few km south of St. Remy. While Peter Mayle put it on the map, it continues to garner decent reviews. We had to cancel our reservations when my husband turned ill that morning, but will definitely try to get there on a later trip. If you book for a Wednesday, you can schedule lunch to follow a trip to St. Remy's lively market.

Edited July 21, 2003 by Margaret Pilgrim (log)

[ballast_regime]

Funny, isn't that where British novelist Sarah Morton's on holiday, staying in John Bosload's summer retreat with a nice swimming pool? I know Sarah always went to a nice little place where there was a handsome server named Franck. It looked cheap (everything on the menu was approximately 4.5 Euros), but good. Say 'hello' to Julie/Julia or me!

Much peace,

Ian Lowe

ballast/regime

[mingus]

I'll second Bistrot du Paradou as a worthy destination for casual dining.

My recollection is that it has a single fixed menu - no choice, what you see is what you get - which changes according to the day of the week. On the day we were there a couple of years ago, it was gigot d'agneau. The interior is roomy, with tiled floors, an exposed beam ceiling, long bar, stone walls, a big bright kitchen, bistro-style tables and chairs. The staff are attentive and friendly. You can sit where you want. The proprietor, Jean-Louis, greets you with a warm handshake. On cue, a bottle of house wine, a basket of bread and a pitcher of water magically appear to join the salt and pepper shakers, the olive oil and the two bistro glasses. Knife, fork, spoon and napkin and that's it - you're ready to enjoy the surroundings, the ambience and the meal.

The fact that no decisions are required makes for a relaxing lunch. Your full attention is on the amuses bouches, the wine, the sauteed red mullet with the fennel seed, olive oil and basil, the lamb in garlic sauce, roasted mashed potatoes and ratatouille, the cheese plate, the fresh strawberry tart and the coffee. It's all delicious and included in the price.

We noticed a plaque on the wall memorializing a special relationship between the place and another bistro in Lyon called Daniel et Denise. This seemed apropos because our only experience at a bouchon there was similar to this one - homey comfort, simple but good food and friendly surroundings.

Paradou is also just down the road from Maussane-les-Alpilles, where you can visit the olive mill of Jean Marie-Cornille and buy some wonderful olive oil.