Who are DC's "rising stars?"

[Suzanne F]

I ran into the CEO of Starchefs last night at the IACP do. She mentioned that they are about to put up a query for their participants: Who are the rising star chefs working in and around DC these days?

Whom do eGulleteers consider to be in that category?

[vengroff]

What are the criteria for rising star? Total unknowns? What about young chefs who already have a name, but still have places to go?

[Steve Klc]

I'll start off--Michel Richard, Bob Kinkead, Roberto Donna. Their stars are still rising even after extensive careers.

Unless you'd like there to be some age/experience/previous media exposure limits. (Can't say I'm too familiar with Starchefs or their criteria. I've only read the Stephanie Zonis chocolate pieces and they are drivel.) Should younger chefs who have already been nominated for the James Beard "Rising Star" chef award or the Food & Wine magazine designation in previous years be excluded now? Should we look for younger chefs in new positions? What about not-so-young chefs who have recently made the move to own or open their own restaurants rather than draw a salary? What's considered young anyway these days? But then that can be the problem with artificial age/gender media constructs.

[Steve Klc]

I see we cross-posted but reacted the same way Vengroff!

If we used F&W and Beard award precedents as part of the framework, that would rule out Fabio and Jose even though we know their national stars have only begun to rise. Should someone already 30+ be excluded? That might exclude Jay Comfort at Poste who not too many had heard of prior to Marian Burros mentioning him in the Times and might exclude Gian Piero of Elysium--who I have heard will be resigning shortly to open his own restaurant. What about underknown but definitely 30++ year old chefs now doing the best work of their career in new restaurants--like a Frank Ruta at Palena?

Edited March 12, 2003 by Steve Klc (log)

[Suzanne F]

I'm actually a little surprised, since lack of criteria has rarely seemed to stop anyone here before.

For the purposes of THIS THREAD, you may define "rising star chef" anyway you like. Just give your definition, please along with who and why. My guess is that Starchefs will use the age parameters that the Beard awards follow, but allow even those who have been nominated in the past. Different organizations, after all.

If I were actually answering instead of asking, I would include chefs of any age who are getting to be well known locally, and better known outside their city/area/region. Chefs whose names now mean something to diners, who engender high expectations.

[Steve Klc]

Suzanne--do you know much about what kind of "organization" Starchefs is these days--it was started by a pretty famous NYC restaurant publicist, Fern Berman, wasn't it--and when I last dropped in it seemed to be a lot of industry fluff. I wonder if they've applied any criteria or selection process to any other "Rising Stars" outside of Washington DC? Have they pitched or posted this angle in other cities?

(We must not be reading the same threads on eGullet, though, this site often seems all about shaping and defining criteria. For others especially.)

[Suzanne F]

Steve -- I don't really know very much about the site. I remember it started out really hot, but then seemed to flounder. They started new discussion forums within the last year, but have not yet recovered their poster base. And they are aware that the forums are almost impossible to find on the site; they've got a re-do in the works to bring them out more prominently. From what I've seen on the forums, big deal. (That is to say, right now, I think the forums suck. ) I mostly use the site to get to James Beard stuff.

But I really didn't want this thread to be about Starchefs; I want to hear the informed and informative opinions of my eGullet brethren (and sistern??) about DC chefs. My motive is purely selfish: since I'm in DC more often again, I want good advice on whose food to eat.

Anyway: regarding the "Rising Star" thread there: the criteria are pretty free-form, as you can see here.

[Steve Klc]

One approach could be to start with this year's James Beard Award "Best Chef" nominees for the Mid-Atlantic region--four of five nominated are from DC: Peter Pastan at Obelisk, Jose Andres at Jaleo, Todd Gray at Equinox and Ann Cashion at Cashion's Eat Place. Throw in Fabio Trabocchi from Maestro--who picked up the Beard "Rising Star" nod--assuming he stays here and isn't the chef Tom Sietsema referred to in his last online chat as moving up and out of the area. I think another young chef who might qualify with some buzz is Jamie Leeds of 15 Ria.

[Suzanne F]

You mean, eGulleteers bow to those "authorities?" I find that hard to believe.

[vengroff]

Throw in Fabio Trabocchi from Maestro--who picked up the Beard "Rising Star" nod--assuming he stays here and isn't the chef Tom Sietsema referred to in his last online chat as moving up and out of the area.

I have been worried since I read that that Fabio might be the one.

[vengroff]

One approach could be to start with this year's James Beard Award "Best Chef" nominees for the Mid-Atlantic region--four of five nominated are from DC:  Peter Pastan at Obelisk, Jose Andres at Jaleo, Todd Gray at Equinox and Ann Cashion at Cashion's Eat Place.

I was disappointed by Equinox, but that was over a year ago. Jose, of course, is the man. I've been looking forward to trying Cashion's for a while, but have not made it yet. Can't say I know much about Pastan. Jay Comfort probably belongs on the list too.

Edited March 15, 2003 by vengroff (log)

[vengroff]

Throw in Fabio Trabocchi from Maestro--who picked up the Beard "Rising Star" nod--assuming he stays here and isn't the chef Tom Sietsema referred to in his last online chat as moving up and out of the area.

In today's Weekly Dish, Tom's only mention of a move is

CHANGING SPACES: The Oval Room at Lafayette Square (800 Connecticut Ave. NW; 202-463-8700) is losing its chef to Zola (800 F St. NW; 202-654-0999) in white-hot Penn Quarter. "I want a broader audience, to have a bit more fun" with cooking, says Frank Morales, who is leaving the modern American restaurant near the White House after 18 months in the kitchen there. The 36-year-old chef is stepping into shoes originally filled by Phillip Carroll, who returned to Chicago in January.

This doesn't seem as big as what he intimated was going to happen last week. Is it?

[Steve Klc]

Not in my book. I didn't consider the Oval Room very high-profile or significant.

But otherwise another strong weekly Food section: gotta like Wolke, a very nice piece by Judith Weinraub (our Marian Burros) on politics and organic standards, Sietsema wraps up the Beard award nominations with a generous 200 words, a very good interview/writeup of Jay Comfort and a few other local chefs, a Peep alert--yet again demonstrating that the Food section does a good job serving the conflicting needs of all of their million or so readers--star chef hangers-on, foodies, home cooks, suburbanite den mothers. Jeanne McManus also noticed something we did as well--these early decidely not local strawberries now in the supermarkets taste really really good.

My wife Colleen thought it was odd Carole Greenwood would be photographed clutching beets in a Taste of Spring piece, though.

But perhaps the most thought-provoking element of the entire section is this: what does it say about our area--that of the talented husband and wife team behind the now-closed but much loved Rupperts--described by Candy Sagon as serving "simple, innovative American cooking"--one has now 1) left food and is studying art and the other is 2) consulting on the side and running a flower-arranging business?

Maybe nothing at all--maybe they just wanted to raise their kid and lead a more normal life. But I wonder...

Edited March 19, 2003 by Steve Klc (log)

[alice]

Dear Steve,

Congratulations on your Rising Star nomination for StarChefs.com. It will be a pleasure to meet you there on September 16th.

FT

P.S. If you don't see me there, I am not trying to be snobby but I may have the coincidence of having the birth of my second child. However, please call me so that you may come and experience Maestro at your convenience.

[Steve Klc]

Thank you and welcome to eG FT. I think everyone will understand if THAT is the reason you're pulled away! Congratulations to you for the real honor here--the impending birth of your second little one. I do not know how chefs with kids do it. Do you have a backup plan in place to cover your dishes if you get the call from the hospital?

Mind sharing with everyone what you're planning to do at this event? Have you picked a wine?

[John W.]

Welcome to EG, Fa... I mean Alice.