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Martin Fisher

Martin Fisher

In my experience nearly all varieties/cultivars of tomatoes are susceptible, new or old, some more than others.

Long fruited types, such as Romas, tend to be more susceptible.

 

What's most important to understand about blossom end rot is it's a condition (not a disease), a condition where there's a problem with calcium distribution IN the plant (not always a lack of available calcium in the soil or foliarly) with various causes....moisture fluctuation is one of those causes.
 

Keeping your plants evenly moist — for steady even growth — and well mulched is one way to prevent or lessen the problem of blossom end rot.

 

Setting seedlings out in cold/cool soil can also lead to blossom end rot, especially in early fruits.

I don't start tomatoes early anymore — haven't for years.

I start them ~4 weeks before set-out time and only set them out when the soil is nice and warm.

 

 

Martin Fisher

Martin Fisher

In my experience nearly all varieties/cultivars of tomatoes are susceptible, new or old, some more than others.

Long fruited types, such as Romas, tend to be more susceptible.

 

What's most important to understand about blossom end rot is it's a condition (not a disease), a condition where there's a problem with calcium distribution IN the plant (not always a lack of available calcium in the soil or foliarly) with various causes....moisture fluctuation is one of those causes.
 

Keeping your plants evenly moist — for steady even growth — and well mulched is one way to prevent or lessen the problem of blossom end rot.

 

Setting seedlings out in cold/cool soil can also lead to blossom end rot, especially in early fruits.

I don't start tomato early anymore — haven't for years.

I start them ~4 weeks before set-out time and only set them out when the soil is nice and warm.

 

 

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