Vienna Dining

[Jerry_A]

Edit: just found the Trzesniewski website Link, those sandwiches look very interesting.  Too bad I can't read what they are made of 

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Here's a quick-'n-dirty sampler translation. Someone who actually speaks German, please feel free to correct it. My other half (who does speak it) could only laugh hysterically at my pronunciation.

Ei mit Ei--egg with egg.

Champignon--mushrooms.

Geflügelleberaufstrich--goose liver pate.

Gervais mit Zwiebel--cheese (?) with onion.

Matjes mit Zwiebel--smoked fish with onion.

Matjes ohne Zwiebel--smoked fish without onion.

Speck mit Ei--better-than-salami with egg.

Zwiebeln mit Ei--onion with egg.

Ei mit zwiebeln--egg with onion. (Just kidding!)

Räucherlachs--smoked salmon.

Ah, you little guten brotchen.

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Fantastic, thanks for that! Those sound divine! What exactly is "better-than-salami'? Or were you editorializing for our benefit

[David McDuff]

Unfortunately my dining companion just read about Restaurant Coburg in her guidebook and it mentioned pigeon and tripe dishes, so now I am going to have to use my massive powers of persuasion to get her there    I have tried to find an English sample menu from them on the web to try and assuage her fears, but I have come up empty so far.  Oh well, I like a challenge 

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Len,

My wife and I enjoyed a special occasion meal at Palais Coburg in September. It was fantastic and certainly the most polished and cutting-edge meal of the trip. We opted for the "Menu Surprise" with wine pairings (all Austrian) selected by the sommelier. I happen to have asked our waiter for a copy of the menu; he obliged with the English version. Here it is....

[KatieLoeb]

My wife and I enjoyed a special occasion meal at Palais Coburg in September. It was fantastic and certainly the most polished and cutting-edge meal of the trip. We opted for the "Menu Surprise" with wine pairings (all Austrian) selected by the sommelier.

David:

That looks fantastic! Do you remember any of the wines that you tried?

[cmling]

I have a sentimental attachment to the Steiereck; I followed them from their very modest beginnings to the giddy heights they achieved. (Interesting to note that Chef Helmut Österreicher's years of service were the same as those of Pope John Paul II.)

My last visit left me disappointed. However, I have heard that they are hitting their stride again, and I certainly wish them well.

Mraz & Sohn also seemed to me not to be what it was on my last visit. Excursions into foams and smoke, etc. didn't work at all. But all credit to them for trying to keep up with the Adrias, I suppose.

Coburg. I'll say it again: Coburg.

(What MIGHT just be a competitor is the Restaurant Korso at the Hotel Bristol. You'll have to be there on a good day, and you'll have to put yourself - most declaredly - in the hands of Chef Reinhard Gerer, who is one of Austria's greatest chefs, as no one will deny, but sometimes one of the laziest, too. I haven't been there since the sommelier recommended an Armagnac [Laberdolive, yes, but not ancient] that cost USD 50 without mentioning the cost and professed his own astonishment when the bill arrived.)

But, well: Coburg. And as I said, you can prevent unpleasant surprises on the "Menu Surprise" by making your wishes known.

Charley

Oh: Geflügelleberaufstrich is a spread of poultry livers. Chickens surely, geese probably not.

[David McDuff]

David:

That looks fantastic!  Do you remember any of the wines that you tried?

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Katie,

I have to admit that sometimes my notekeeping takes a back seat to the spirit of the moment. In other words, I don't have a detailed recollection of the wines. The standouts were a fantastic Riesling Smaragd from Prager, a vibrant Blaufrankisch from the Burgenland and one of many stickies enjoyed on the trip from Alois Kracher. The rest, I'm afraid, is a distant blur....

Edited October 23, 2006 by David McDuff (log)

[Jerry_A]

Unfortunately my dining companion just read about Restaurant Coburg in her guidebook and it mentioned pigeon and tripe dishes, so now I am going to have to use my massive powers of persuasion to get her there    I have tried to find an English sample menu from them on the web to try and assuage her fears, but I have come up empty so far.  Oh well, I like a challenge 

Len,

My wife and I enjoyed a special occasion meal at Palais Coburg in September. It was fantastic and certainly the most polished and cutting-edge meal of the trip. We opted for the "Menu Surprise" with wine pairings (all Austrian) selected by the sommelier. I happen to have asked our waiter for a copy of the menu; he obliged with the English version. Here it is....

Wow David, that looks absolutely amazing, thank you so much. I have gone ahead and requested a night there later in the week and it seems they will be willing to accomodate special requests if need be. I am very excited to try it!

The more research I do into Viennese dining, and the more I read from all of you, the more impatient I become! I can hardly wait for my trip to get here!

Thanks to all for the help so far!

Len

[KatieLoeb]

David:

That looks fantastic!  Do you remember any of the wines that you tried?

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Katie,

I have to admit that sometimes my notekeeping takes a back seat to the spirit of the moment. In other words, I don't have a detailed recollection of the wines. The standouts were a fantastic Riesling Smaragd from Prager, a vibrant Blaufrankisch from the Burgenland and one of many stickies enjoyed on the trip from Alois Kracher. The rest, I'm afraid, is a distant blur....

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The ones you've remembered sound delicious. I've loved all of the wines from Prager and Kracher that I've ever tried. Pichler and Heidi Schrock are two of my other favorites.

[ludja]

Thank you everyone for the all the recent information, including the Palais Coburg menu provided by David McDuff and the informative links by Cronenberg.

I'm hoping to visit Vienna for a week or so next summer so this is really whetting my appetite. I've been to Vienna several times but only as day trips from Graz!

I love the tip on the Trzesniewski brotchen place! Brotchens are one of my favorite snacks to get in Austria, perhaps with a Pfiff or more of beer. Trzesniewski's brotchen are interesting in that all the brotchen they show are of the 'spread' type rather than some with slices of coldcuts like salami, etc. That being said, Fleischsalat is one of my favorite toppings.

Does anyone have opinions on Plachutta and whether that is the place to go for a classic Tafelspitz with all the accompaniements?

Thank you...

ludja

[cmling]

A further note about the Restaurant Coburg and Kracher's "stickies" (I like that term!). The wine accompaniment to my "menu surprise" included a Muscat-Ottonel Beerenauslese specially made (if that's the word) for the restaurant. Delicious, of course, Kracher can do no wrong.

Trzesniewski is indeed something very special. Do go if you can. I wouldn't claim their Brötchen are something to be worshipped, but they can become strangely addictive...

Plachutta will perform reliably. It is not a favourite of mine; the operation seems soulless, impersonal, and streamlined to me. You will get a good meal, I am sure. I wish I could direct you to the Tafelspitz of my dreams, but I can't. I had that at a restaurant that no longer exists, its chef was Joachim Gradwohl, who replaced Christian Petz at Meinl am Graben, the latter now at the Restaurant Coburg.

And so the circle is closed.

Charley

[ludja]

...

Plachutta will perform reliably.  It is not a favourite of mine; the operation seems soulless, impersonal, and streamlined to me.  You will get a good meal, I am sure.  I wish I could direct you to the Tafelspitz of my dreams, but I can't.  I had that at a restaurant that no longer exists, its chef was Joachim Gradwohl, who replaced Christian Petz at Meinl am Graben, the latter now at the Restaurant Coburg.

And so the circle is closed.

Charley

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Thank you for a detailed description. Wie Schade, I had heard good things of Meinl am Graben. Did this restaurant close relatively recently and why did it close? (if anyone knows) Is Joachim Gradwohl at a new restaurant in Vienna?

In any case, I guess it joined history with another legendary Tafelspitz place I've read about, Meissel and Schadn's.

edited to add: If anyone has any other recommendations for places selling brotchens, I love to hear of them. I'll have plenty of time to check out more than one place...

Edited October 23, 2006 by ludja (log)

[cmling]

Sorry for the ambiguity. Meinl am Graben is alive and kicking. Gradwohl came from a place called "Maestro" (or something very similar). THAT's the one that no longer exists.

[Jerry_A]

Hello again everyone! So we have secured our Coburg reservation (thanks to Charley for the rec!) for the 23rd of December, but now comes the hard part; what to do on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day

It appears the city sort of shuts down so we are having some difficulty figuring out where to go/what to do. Our hotel recommended Korso and Hotel Sacher which are both doing set Christmas menus. Korso seems great and we may end up going with that, but we were also thinking we may want something a little more low-key.

Can anyone recommend a decent, casual, moderately priced place for Christmas Eve/Day?

Thanks for the help!

Cheers,

Len

[glauer]

I am not sure whether they will open over christmas.....but I really enjoyed dinner at Gaumenspiel recently. ( www.gaumenspiel.at ).

It was quite ambitious food, based on classic austrian cuisine. The setting is very informal and relaxed, very enthusiastic and friendly service and a smart wine list. Everything at modest prices. At the end of the evening we almost felt like regulars, and were sad that we could not go regularly.

[Jerry_A]

I am not sure whether they will open over christmas.....but I really enjoyed dinner at Gaumenspiel recently. ( www.gaumenspiel.at ).

It was quite ambitious food, based on classic austrian cuisine. The setting is very informal and relaxed, very enthusiastic and friendly service and a smart wine list. Everything at modest prices. At the end of the evening we almost felt like regulars, and were sad that we could not go regularly.

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Thanks! Even if they are not open on Christmas it looks to be worth a visit for dinner or lunch.

[cmling]

It is, alas, safe to assume that practically all restaurants in Vienna except for those in hotels will be closed on Christmas Eve, and those that are open will be charging much more than they generally do. (This is a Viennese speciality. On New Year's Eve, they go completely crazy, although then the choice is huge.)

The situation on Christmas Day is perhaps a bit better. I'll see what I can find out. No promises, I fear...

Charley

[Jerry_A]

It is, alas, safe to assume that practically all restaurants in Vienna except for those in hotels will be closed on Christmas Eve, and those that are open will be charging much more than they generally do.  (This is a Viennese speciality.  On New Year's Eve, they go completely crazy, although then the choice is huge.)

The situation on Christmas Day is perhaps a bit better.  I'll see what I can find out.  No promises, I fear...

Charley

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That was what I suspected for Christmas Eve, we may just have to hole up in our room that night with whatever provisions our hotel can provide.

Thanks again for doing this legwork Charley, your help, as always, is greatly appreciated!

Cheers, Len

[ludja]

...

That was what I suspected for Christmas Eve, we may just have to hole up in our room that night with whatever provisions our hotel can provide.  

...

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Some nice cheeses, salamis, liverwurst, smoked oysters, good bread and pickles etc with some nice beer or wine could be a wonderful feast... I'm sure there are lots of other wonderful treats to pick up in advance at the Naschmarkt, konditorei's or other food places as well...

Edited November 2, 2006 by ludja (log)

[Jerry_A]

...

That was what I suspected for Christmas Eve, we may just have to hole up in our room that night with whatever provisions our hotel can provide.  

...

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Some nice cheeses, salamis, liverwurst, smoked oysters, good bread and pickles etc with some nice beer or wine could be a wonderful feast... I'm sure there are lots of other wonderful treats to pick up in advance at the Naschmarkt, konditorei's or other food places as well...

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Very true and from past experience it is those types of meals that often end up being the best!

[Jerry_A]

Alas, Gaumenspiel is closed on the 24th and 25th, so I am still looking for suggestions if anyone has some.

I'm sure we will just end up staying in the hotel for one of those nights, but it would be great to have a dinner option available for the other.

Thanks very much!

Len

[Boris_A]

but it would be great to have a dinner option available for the other.

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Maybe you want to visit this helpful webpage and check for restaurants with two ore more stars (Gaumenspiel is two star rated, for example) in Wien or Niederösterreich. There must be 50 adresses and phone numbers and if you're not afraid of asking all of them, there's a good chance to find at least one opened on christmas. If not, I fear there's nothing left than accepting your fate.

Good luck and merry christmas, anyway

[Jerry_A]

but it would be great to have a dinner option available for the other.

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Maybe you want to visit this helpful webpage and check for restaurants with two ore more stars (Gaumenspiel is two star rated, for example) in Wien or Niederösterreich. There must be 50 adresses and phone numbers and if you're not afraid of asking all of them, there's a good chance to find at least one opened on christmas. If not, I fear there's nothing left than accepting your fate.

Good luck and merry christmas, anyway

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Wow, great site, thanks Boris! Navigating through the German may be difficult, but I think I'll be able to manage.

I have no fear, so many calls are about to be made and e-mails sent.

I'll let you know what I come up with.

Thanks again,

Len

[MsAzadi]

Lots of good suggestions so thank you all for them. Dear husband and I will be in Vienna for three days (Dec 12-14) and have musical evenings for two of the three days. What I'm looking for is good 'ordinary' food we can walk off before an opera or ballet, then follow up with a lush dessert post music.

Neither of us drink, nor smoke, but are looking for some nice atmosphere in which to consume sugar

Any rec's for dessert near the State Opera and near the Mozart House?

And lunch suggestions would help too. We are expecting a lot more cold than we are used to and so this is one time we'd be as happier with hearty rather than cutting edge.

Thanks in advance! Maureen

[cmling]

Dined at the Restaurant Coburg for the second time on Saturday (2 December).

The first time was perfection, this time was only superb. (If you like to think in Gault/Millau terms, let's say 19.5 vs. 18. I won't hesitate to admit that such numerical exercises are a bit strange.)

Sorry that I can't help MsAzadi. The concierge might have ideas? (And I wonder what the Mozart House is.)

Greetings to all,

Charley

[Marcel]

Hello, going to Vienna, would love to have opinions about sophisticated dining places. Thanks

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I'm new here but lived 2 years in Wien (Vienna). There are many superb restaurants in Wien but the one I miss most is Alte Backstube

It is in the 4th district, I believe and dates from 1697. Much of it is in the basement. Visit the site even if you don't go there.

Backstube Foto Restaurant Alte Backstube Backstube Foto

http://www.backstube.at/

Servus,

Marcel

[cmling]

In the 8th district, actually. It is very cute indeed, although I do not remember the food as remarkable.

Charley