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German Three-Star Restaurants


cabrales
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Germany now has a seventh three star restaurant: it was awarded to 34 year old Christian Bau cooking at Victor's Residenz Hotel Schloss Berg.

There were also two promotions to two stars: Aqua in Wolfsburg and Amador in Langen.

malacintana.

thanks for the info - when did this happen?

u.e.

“Watermelon - it’s a good fruit. You eat, you drink, you wash your face.”

Italian tenor Enrico Caruso (1873-1921)

ulteriorepicure.com

My flickr account

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WOW - i should make reservations before it gets packed - and prices skyrocket!! :raz:

U.E

P.S. So, Michelin doesn't publish all their guides (per country) at teh same time?

EDIT: Have any members visited Schloss Berg Nennig (Christian Baus) lately? If so, I would love to hear about experiences, food, prices, etc... :rolleyes:

Edited by ulterior epicure (log)

“Watermelon - it’s a good fruit. You eat, you drink, you wash your face.”

Italian tenor Enrico Caruso (1873-1921)

ulteriorepicure.com

My flickr account

ulteriorepicure@gmail.com

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I'm reviving this forum... it seems I have another chance at a great German restaurant experience. I toyed with the idea of re-visiting my beloved :wub: Dieter Muller's where I had a fantastic experience... but that hope was quickly dashed when I was informed that they were full.

Miraculously, I've secured reservations at both Bareiss and Schwartzwaldstube... any recent input on either? malacintana/stephen w/any other eGulleters? I've also (having forgotten about this thread), posted the question here.

Cheers!

U.E.

P.S. I leave tomorrow - but will have web access on my travels... so quick responses would be appreciated!

“Watermelon - it’s a good fruit. You eat, you drink, you wash your face.”

Italian tenor Enrico Caruso (1873-1921)

ulteriorepicure.com

My flickr account

ulteriorepicure@gmail.com

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I'm reviving this forum... it seems I have another chance at a great German restaurant experience.  I toyed with the idea of re-visiting my beloved  :wub:  Dieter Muller's where I had a fantastic experience... but that hope was quickly dashed when I was informed that they were full.

Miraculously, I've secured reservations at both Bareiss and Schwartzwaldstube... any recent input on either?  malacintana/stephen w/any other eGulleters?  I've also (having forgotten about this thread), posted the question here.

Cheers!

U.E.

P.S. I leave tomorrow - but will have web access on my travels... so quick responses would be appreciated!

I've been to both, Bareiss and Schwarzwaldstube a couple of years ago. Can't remember the menu details, but I remember that I was utterly dissapointed by Schwarzwaldstube which is supposed to be the best of the german three star chefs. I remember the food as very unexciting. But maybe I was unlucky, or it was a mistake to go for the tasting menu. I remember that many of the a la carte dishes sounded more daring. I remember Bareiss as a very nice experience. From both, expect the food to be more classical than at Dieter Müller's.

I've also been to Heinz Winkler's three star restaurant in Aschau. This is, in my opinion, the worst of the german three star restaurants. It appears that his cuisine stands almost still.

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thanks malacintana, now you have got me in a quandry as neither sound that appealing from your description... did you like muller better or vendome?

also - have you been to either schlossberg or waldhotel sonnora?

“Watermelon - it’s a good fruit. You eat, you drink, you wash your face.”

Italian tenor Enrico Caruso (1873-1921)

ulteriorepicure.com

My flickr account

ulteriorepicure@gmail.com

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I've been to both, Bareiss and Schwarzwaldstube a couple of years ago. Can't remember the menu details, but I remember that I was utterly dissapointed by Schwarzwaldstube which is supposed to be the best of the german three star chefs.

...Things can change within a few years. Harald Wohlfahrt is still an absolute World Class Chef. The only thing i don´t like about his restaurant is that heavy, classic wood decoration. But that has nothing to do with the food.....

From what i hear in the "scene" Vendome is the most interesting restaurant in Germany right now. Headchef Wissler is a highly dedicated man who has the financial privilege to serve modern enlighted dishes with the best ingredients money can buy. Vendome is owned by the same Group that owns Schlosshotel Lerbach where Restaurant Dieter Müller is situated...

If you let me know where you will be located in Germany i can try to give you

recommendations for restaurants from 1 to 3 Stars.....

Reuven

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thanks malacintana, now you have got me in a quandry as neither sound that appealing from your description...  did you like muller better or vendome?

also - have you been to either schlossberg or waldhotel sonnora?

No, haven't been to either Schlossberg or Sonnora, since both of

them are virtually in the middle of nowhere.

From my experience, I liked the food at mueller and vendome better than at either schwarzwaldstube or bareiss. For me, to decide between mueller and vendome is almost impossible. They are both very, very good. Of the twenty or so three-star places I've tried so far, I'd probably rank them 4th or 5th.

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Thanks for all the replys... alas, I have decided to cancel my German aspirations due to the fact that I got a reservation at my top choice.... in France... so I suppose, I will have a bit longer to really study well the German culinary-scape before I return.

Thanks again everyone for your input!

U.E.

“Watermelon - it’s a good fruit. You eat, you drink, you wash your face.”

Italian tenor Enrico Caruso (1873-1921)

ulteriorepicure.com

My flickr account

ulteriorepicure@gmail.com

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  • 2 weeks later...

u.e.

"I've also been to Heinz Winkler's three star restaurant in Aschau. This is, in my opinion, the worst of the german three star restaurants. It appears that his cuisine stands almost still."

I totally agree with malacitana regarding Winkler. I dined there only 3 days ago. Winkler was not in the restaurant. It was half empty. The dining room seemed drab (over lit, perhaps) and both the food (we had the chef's tasting menu) and the service were inconsistent. To be fair, there were instances of sheer brilliance on the menu, particularly at the amuse stage. He is also at his best with fish. However, there were several egregious displays of sheer amateurism like the sauce (a port wine reduction?) accompanying our final course of pheasant breast, which was the color of muddy chocolate (a turn off to everybody at the table) and tasted primarily of uncooked flour. Unfortunately, out of the entire menu, this is the one dish we will most likely remember.

On the other hand, Tantris is certainly worth a visit. Haas' cooking is honest and without pretention yet precisely executed and often sublime. He is always in the kitchen and takes extraordinary pride in every aspect of preparation, execution and delivery.

I have eaten in both restaurants several times and my judgments remain unchanged.

Jay

You are what you eat.

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thanks for that review and update. unfortunately (or fortunately), my tenure in the european states is quickly coming to an end! i am off to my next stop in turkey and then back to the states for the holidays - so neither winkler nor tantris will be getting a visit from me... i'm sorry you were so disappointed in winkler.

however, i will keep your thoughts in mind...

cheers!

ulterior epicure.

Edited by ulterior epicure (log)

“Watermelon - it’s a good fruit. You eat, you drink, you wash your face.”

Italian tenor Enrico Caruso (1873-1921)

ulteriorepicure.com

My flickr account

ulteriorepicure@gmail.com

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  • 4 years later...

So, news from the German 3 star scene:

Approximately two years after Nils Henkel took charge of "Gourmetrestaurant Dieter Müller" the restaurant has been renamed ("Gourmetrestaurant Lerbach") and refurbished (pictures on the website).

Nils Henkel looks to be further developing his style of cuisine and the restaurant perhaps better reflects this.

It is also interesting to note that a 6 course vegetarian tasting menu is available (Menü Pures Gemüse) - not something that you tend to see advertised at the top-end in Germany.

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  • 2 months later...

There are many great chefs around the world, but not many actually dare to put their names in front and Dieter Muller is one of them – not even Ferran Adria, Bernard Pacaud or Harald Wohlfart (until recently the restaurant was changed into Gourmet Restaurant ran by Nils Henkel). By the time I got there, I learned that Muller was actually semi retired; he was with his son in HK at that time.

Food (and wine) - 94/100

As in most places, I usually visit the restaurant for the first time and order its classic menu (if any). The menu was the normal one (not the 18 courses - amuse bouche style). I started with 3 amuse: the scampi with sesame black foam was good, lamb loin with its juice and Chinese sauce was find while the fried ‘ray’ fish was OK. The first dish is terrine of salmon and scallop. The salmon is served inside jelly; there is bourride sauce on sides – quite interesting presentation, but nothing really special. The next dish – roulade of john dory was much better than the salmon. The fish is tasty with good texture, the champagne flavor in the sauce was quite strong accompanied by a nice ‘paella’ meat ball.

The main dish was excellent – a sample of simple dish executed perfectly. The picture might not look good, yet it tasted so good in my palate. The beef was dry-aged perfectly for 4-6 weeks. The beef is tender, juicy and nice by itself or with the red wine sauce. I wish they gave me more chanterelle mushrooms on the sides. It’s very good though not spectacular. Palate cleanser or pre dessert – champagne cream sorbet followed the main course. The dessert was visually pleasant; it’s a mixture of sweet from parfait of caramelized cinnamon and sour from red plum parfait. The selection of chocolate and truffle are nice, but as many as Vendome. I was told that the cheese was only available during summer (more than 50 different kinds) which I found a bit odd. I only had 2 glasses of wines (both are relatively young) accompanied me for lunch: dry pinot blanc by Weiner Burgunder ’07 and dry pinot noir of Spatburgunder ’06.

I would describe my meal here as solid but not wow; rather traditional – one can still see the tradition, but also a little bit of effort to re-invent. It was a nice meal and I felt satisfied. However, if I have to choose between 2 top restaurants in Bergisch Gladbach area, I would pick the one under Joachim Wissler. It’s 94 pts aka 2 ½*

Service (and ambiance) - 95/100

The Schloss Lerbach is smaller and not as grand as Schloss Bensberg, but it is more homey I suppose. The hotel may not be that big, but the surrounding was green and beautiful – this was reflected at the dining room of the restaurant. It’s elegant and classic, very pretty during lunch time. The areas are mainly glasses serving natural sunlight; it overlooks the gardens. It’s easily one of the best places for lunch (in terms of atmosphere) that I’ve ever been. The service was also excellent – courteous staffs, full of smiles and quite relaxing given it’s a 3-star in the palace-like hotel. I can understand why Michelin bestowed 3-star here, but it won’t be the top 10% among 3-star in my case. It will be interesting how this restaurant would fare in the next 2-3 years as Dieter Muller is no longer there. I’m confident that chef Henkel would not disappoint, but good enough to hold for 3-star? Time will tell … if it’s still at the top by 2012, it could stay there until 2015 or even later. Just my two cents …

Click here for pictures - Dieter Muller '08

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Just for clarity: Weißer Burgunder is pinot blanc, Spätburgunder is pinot noir.

Although it is hard for me, I won't go into the diacritics.

Edited by cmling (log)

Charles Milton Ling

Vienna, Austria

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