German Three-Star Restaurants

[cabrales]

Do members have input as to whether the following is an exhaustive, current list of the three stars in Germany?

Helmut Thieltges of the Waldhotel Sonnora in Dreis.

Harald Wohlfahrt of the Schwarzwaldstube restaurant in Baden-Wurttemberg.

Dieter Mueller of the Chateau-Hotel Lerbach near Cologne.

Frenchman Jean-Claude Bourgueil at Duesseldorf-Kaiserswerth's Schiffchen restaurant.

Do members know which restaurant above is closest to Frankfurt? I'd appreciate members' input on any of the above.

[stephen wall]

Heinz winkler in aschau ,near munich as well although thats probably the furthest of the lot from Frankfurt

[Peter B Wolf]

Waldhotel Sonnora in Dreis can only be reached awkwardly: From Frankfurt by train via Koblenz ( change trains) will take two and a half hours. A car not much less since the route will take you through the Hunsrueck mountains.

Dieter Mueller’s place, in Bergisch-Glattbach, a three star chef since 1997, is just east of Koeln (Cologne). The train will take one hour and 40 minutes (Changing in Cologne) . Superhighway (no speed limit) Autobahn #3 and #4 will get you there in about two hours.

Chef Mueller’s cooking is rated higher in Germany by German magazines (Der Feischmecker, Essen und Trinken etc)

I ate Dieter’s food in 1989 when he was at the “Schweizer Stuben” in Wertheim and made his first and second star.

Die Schwarzwald Stube is at least three and a half hours from Frankfurt, although by train direct to Freiburg, one of Germany’s most beautiful cities, but then on with either bus or just don’t know. But even driving will take over three hours. But the trip through the Black Forest is worth it. Besides most star restaurants in Germany are in the Black Forrest area and the State / Land BADEN-WUERTEMBERG

As a byline I like to mention that through and for economic reasons seven German one and two star places folded up in the past year, and they are (this is official): “Gala” Aachen, “Windmuehle” Bad Oeynhausen, “Aldermann” Berlin, Wagner’s Restaurant “Zum Storchennest” Erlangen, “Gut Faistenberg” Eurasberg, “Mertens” Hamburg’, and “Kurhausstueberl” Waging.

[charl]

list of the three stars in Germany

Helmut Thieltges of the Waldhotel Sonnora in Dreis.

Dieter Mueller of the Chateau-Hotel Lerbach near Cologne.

Frenchman Jean-Claude Bourgueil at Duesseldorf-Kaiserswerth's Schiffchen restaurant.

←

Plus the newly-promoted 3-star "Vendome" in Schloss Bensberg near Cologne ( teamed-up with Dieter Mueller ) .

I am planning to include all the above restaurants in my next trip to Germany . Can anybody provide recommendations of recent successful ( and advises of failed ) dishes ? Thanks a lot .

[Diane Duane]

Die Schwarzwald Stube is at least  three and a half hours from Frankfurt, although by train direct to Freiburg, one of Germany’s most beautiful cities, but then on with either bus or just don’t know. But even driving will take over three hours. But the trip through the Black Forest is worth it. Besides most star restaurants in Germany are in the Black Forrest area and the State / Land BADEN-WUERTEMBERG

←

Peter -- where exactly is this restaurant? In Freiburg proper, or nearby? There is a lot of BaWu...

[cmling]

Baiersbronn (where the deservedly famous Schwarzwaldstube of the Traube-Tonbach is situated) is not in Freiburg, and not exactly nearby. It is in the north of the Black Forest, while Freiburg is in the south. A good 2.5 hours by train, not much less by car.

In Freiburg, by the way, I can recommend the restaurant in the Hotel Colombi without reservation. It has one Michelin star, but definitely deserves two. (Michelin frowns upon the fact that the chef sometimes has to cook for "events" in the hotel.)

[food mom]

It seems that Tantris is still stuck at two stars, although Hans Haas cooks decidedly better than Winkler or Mueller. AND he actually cooks at the restaurant, unlike many who are in executive positions only.

Tantris was the first restaurant to gain the prestigious three stars, and did this under Eckart Witzigmann (voted "Chef of the Century" in Europe, amid accolades from many of his peers - Troisgros, Bocuse, etc.). Herr Witzigmann still ghosters around Munich, and you may see him (and indeed, many other well-known Chefs) at the Viktualienmarkt (the open-air market just around the corner from the Marienplatz). If you should visit the Viktualienmarkt, be sure to look up a Stand close to the Maibaum called Rottler. They're known for a)house-made confitures, condiments, fresh herbs and truffles, and b) "the Man with the Hat", Hans Hollweck. A Chef in his own right, he deals with many of the notables, and speaks fluent english. Tell him that "Marktfrau" sent you.

p.s. sorry. First in Germany to gain 3 stars.

Edited October 21, 2005 by food mom (log)

[ulterior epicure]

Going to Koln soon. Does any kind eGulleter out there have anything to say about a recent visit to Dieter Muller's or Vendome? What's the difference? I'm a little confuse as their websites both link to the same hotel (chain)?

They both look rather traditional/classic... which one promise a more innovative/creative take?

I would love to hear reaction/advice/highs and low's.

Cheers.

U.E.

Edited November 7, 2005 by ulterior epicure (log)

[Stephen W]

Going to Koln soon.  Does any kind eGulleter out there have anything to say about a recent visit to Dieter Muller's or Vendome?  What's the difference?  I'm a little confuse as their websites both link to the same hotel (chain)?

They both look rather traditional/classic... which one promise a more innovative/creative take?

I would love to hear reaction/advice/highs and low's.

←

Not first-hand experience but my parents recently visited Dieter Müller's and had:

Canapes

***

Amuse Bouche (3)

***

Terrine and mousse of Foie Gras, Chervil confit, truffle jus and sweet wood jelly

***

Roulade of Sole and Atlantic Lobster with crustaceans fumet on sprout and soya beans

***

Soup of spiced pumpkin with baked scallop

***

Sauteed wild duck breast in cardamom fragrance with sauce Bigarde, duck strudel, chestnut polenta and white cabbage roulade

***

Champagne cream sorbet "Moet & Chandon"

or

Brie de Meaux with white Alba Truffle and fig-walnut-confit

***

Tartlets of Jivara chocolate, cinnamon flower and plum cinnamon ice cream, creme brulee of plum wine

***

Assorted Patisserie

Apologies that I haven't got detailed tasting notes or photos (parents... ) but they did say it was all excellent and the service was superb.

I'm hoping to visit Dieter Müller's in March / April and am aiming to go for lunch when the restaurant does an "Amuse Bouche" menu - 19 small dishes (as the name suggests I suppose) served in 5 courses - that's innovative enough for me!

There's a bit more information on cooking philosophy etc. (in German) on Dieter Müller's own website.

[malacitana]

Going to Koln soon.  Does any kind eGulleter out there have anything to say about a recent visit to Dieter Muller's or Vendome?  What's the difference?  I'm a little confuse as their websites both link to the same hotel (chain)?

They both look rather traditional/classic... which one promise a more innovative/creative take?

I would love to hear reaction/advice/highs and low's.

Cheers.

U.E.

←

I've been to both, Dieter Mueller and Vendome. Dieter Mueller does very french-inspired haute cuisine, perhaps somewhat comparable in style to Antoine Westermann (Buerehiesel in Strassbourg). If you opt for the 19-course amouse bouche menu, it is only available at lunch-time. Dieter Mueller also is famous for his cheese selection of around 160 different cheeses.

Joachim Wissler at Vendome (have a look at www.schlossbensberg.com/index_e.html for a sample menu) is the youngest of the german three-star chefs and his style of cooking is definitely more modern and innovative than Dieter Mueller's. I found the ambiance dreadful.

[ulterior epicure]

thanks to both malacitana and stephen w...

do either of you remember the prices of the 19-course/other courses? stephen w - what about the menu your parents had?

also, which restaurant is easier to reach by train and food (no car).

malacitana - which did you like better (which experience)? i like more innovative food - which suggests vendome might be a better option for me... but i see that it seems more expensive than dieter muller? if you were to chose one - which one would you go to (as a first timer)?

thanks!!!!!

u.e.

[Stephen W]

thanks to both malacitana and stephen w...

do either of you remember the prices of the 19-course/other courses?  stephen w - what about the menu your parents had?

also, which restaurant is easier to reach by train and food (no car).

←

My parents menu was €130 - I believe it was also available minus a couple of courses (the soup and the sorbet / brie I think) for €105.

I have seen the Amuse Bouche menu listed at €98 on another website.

As for reaching them by train, in my opinion Vendôme is easier - use the tram (number 1) from Koln Deutz-Messe to Bensberg - "CityPlus Ticket 2b" - about €3 each way I think. Restaurant is about 500m from the tram stop.

I believe that Restaurant Dieter Müller is about 3-4km from Bergisch Gladbach station, although you could get a taxi of course.

[malacitana]

thanks to both malacitana and stephen w...

do either of you remember the prices of the 19-course/other courses?  stephen w - what about the menu your parents had?

also, which restaurant is easier to reach by train and food (no car).

malacitana - which did you like better (which experience)?  i like more innovative food - which suggests vendome might be a better option for me... but i see that it seems more expensive than dieter muller?  if you were to chose one - which one would you go to (as a first timer)?

thanks!!!!!

u.e.

←

The prices at Dieter Mueller and Vendome should be pretty much identical with around 120-130 Euros for a full-scale degustation menu. Value for money should be much better than in either France or the U.K.

Both restaurants are in walking distance or a short taxi ride from the S-bahn station Bensberg (line S1).

Food at both places will not dissapoint. In my opinion, these are the

best two of the german three-star places. I guess Dieter Mueller

resembles what most people seek in a three star restaurant, and the

hearsay goes that it has improved lately (and I went about 2 years ago and

it was very good). The food at Vendome is modern, straightforward

and product-centred food with some local references. I actually found the

menu that I had there

Red mullet sauteed with a bacon condiment, artichoke salad and tapenade

Coquilles Saint Jacques with sea urchin veloute and turnip puree

grilled John Dory with caramelised tomato, compote of octopus and artichoke in

sauce ali-oli (had artichoke two times in the menu because we requested

a menu change)

belly of pork with small mushrooms and cumin and bay leaf jus

filet of hare with brussel sprouts scented with juniper and renetten apple-wine

and truffled salsify

vacherin mont d'or with jerusalem artichoke (topinambur) and pumpkin oil

mosaic of exotic fruits with a jasmine sherbet and frozen infusion of

citronelle and peppermint

If I had to make a choice based on the food, I'd personally opt for Vendome.

If you go, let me know what you think of the decor.

[ulterior epicure]

malacintana.

thanks for the run down! what did you find so offensive/disappointing about vendome's decor? as opposed to dieter muller's?

u.e.

[malacitana]

malacintana.

thanks for the run down!  what did you find so offensive/disappointing about vendome's decor?  as opposed to dieter muller's?

u.e.

←

both are located in castles. dieter müller's restaurant has been there for quite

some time and is decorated in an elegant and luxurious, but conservative and a bit old fashioned way.

vendome is rather new (maybe three or four years old, in a completely

refurbished restaurant). the walls are wood panelled, boasting chandeliers with

offensively bright bare light-bulbs. The chairs, banks, and the room partitioners are covered with a cheesy beige cloth with golden imprints. In my opinion, the

restaurant tries to be luxurious in a rather aggressive way. Just not my cup of tea. But I'm sure that it appeals to many people. What is nice about the place,

though, is that when you enter the restaurant, the kitchen is visible through a large window.

[ulterior epicure]

malacintana.

well, my main focus is on innovative cuisine - and if you give the edge to vendome on that - then i think it's the better place for me. decor doesn't figure that much into my experience (usually).

thanks for the advice! let me know if you think of anything else i should know - i'm headed off this weekend!

cheers.

u.e.

[malacitana]

malacintana.

well, my main focus is on innovative cuisine - and if you give the edge to vendome on that - then i think it's the better place for me.  decor doesn't figure that much into my experience (usually).

thanks for the advice!  let me know if you think of anything else i should know - i'm headed off this weekend!

cheers.

u.e.

←

if you like innovative cuisine, maybe you should have a look

at www.lemoissonnier.de. a very nice and french bistro in cologne with

one Michelin star and which offers surprisingly inventive food. on the website,

look for speisekarte, and then speisekarten: vorspeisen, hauptspeisen, desserts,

which includes a description of the dishes in english and french. one of my

favourite restaurants worldwide for a relaxed evening.

Edited November 8, 2005 by malacitana (log)

[ulterior epicure]

malacintana.

looks tempting, but i've decided to cut my stay in koln short and opting for a jaunt up to lubeck, which i've heard is a must... any good eats up that way that you know of?

cheers.

u.e.

p.s., still can't decide between vendome and muller's... will probably flip a coin - but the modern bent of vendome (according to your description) is nudging me...

[malacitana]

u.e.,

on the way to lübeck you could go via dortmund (approx. 100 kms from Cologne), where "la table" is an interesting option. There are rumours that it is a candidate for a third star. but i'd be interested in learning the name of the place in lübeck. didn't know that there is an important restaurant there.

p.s. give the coin a bias towards vendome

[ulterior epicure]

ah malacitana...

the ironies of life... my plans have changed and unfortunately, i will have to have lunch on thursday - which means it must be dieter muller's. vendome is closed for a private party thursday lunch.... DARN - i had decided to go to vendome when i called for a reservation change... c'est la vie!

update forthcoming - and on lubeck.

cheers.

u.e.

[ulterior epicure]

Does anyone, who speaks German, have the time/energy to translate the following for me?

+++++++++

Amuse bouche

Terrine von Gewürzlachs und Brunnenkresse

mit gebackener Auster, Lachstatar und Muschelvinaigrette

***

Loup de mer mit Pulpo-Langoustinohaube

Bouillabaissesauce und gegrilltem Sepia

***

* Maronensüppchen mit Albatrüffel

und sautiertem Kalbsbries

***

Rücken vom Damhirsch in Pfefferwürze

mit Holunderjus, Schwarzwurzeln, Kürbis-Schupfnudeln

***

* Champagnercrèmesorbet „Moët & Chandon“

oder

Getrüffelter Brie de Meaux mit Traubensenf-Sorbet

***

Clafoutis von Birne mit Pekannüssen

Quitten und Rahm-Toffeeeis

Feine Pâtisserie

Menü mit Champagnercrèmesorbet € 130.--

Menü mit Brie de Meaux oder Käseauswahl vom Wagen € 135.--

* ohne diese Gerichte € 105.--

(bei Änderungen des Menüs wird evtl. ein Aufpreis berechnet)

+++++++

[albiston]

Does anyone, who speaks German, have the time/energy to translate the following for me?

+++++++

←

I'll try a quick translation

Amuse bouche

Watercress and spice-cured salmon (that's what I take Gewürzlachs to be) terrine with baked oyster, salmon tartare and mussel vinaigrette

Sea bass with octopus and langoustine "haube" (to me that's a bonnet, but I'm sure it must have a different gastronomic meaning), bouillabaisse sauce and grilled cuttlefish

Little chestnuts soup with Alba truffles and sauteed veal sweetbreads

Saddle of pepper-seasoned Fallow Deer with eldeberry jus, salsify, pumpkin-schupfnudeln

Champagne-cream Sorbet „Moët & Chandon“ or Truffled Brie de Meaux with grape mustard (Italian mostarda d'uva maybe?) Sorbet

Pear Clafoutis with pecans, quince, cream and toffee ice

Little pastries

Menü with Champacne sorbet € 130.--

Menü with Brie de Meaux or cheese selection from the trolley € 135.--

* without any of the two above € 105.--

(menu changes could cause changes in the prices mentioned above)

Edited November 9, 2005 by albiston (log)

[Stephen W]

Haube - crust perhaps?

Also does Langoustino signify jumbo prawn / shrimp rather than Langoustine?

[ulterior epicure]

I'm baaacckkk...

OHMYGOSH... the "Amuse Bouche" menu at Dieter Muller's was to DIE FOR... I'm really too tired to give the details now, but I promise a full (translated) menu and the "dish" soon!

U.E.

************************* UPDATE **************************

Here it is:

Pre-Amuses

1. Rillette of foie topped with a small disc of foie au torchon sitting on a thin toasted brioche.

2. Tandori salmon mousse rolled in black and white sesame seeds.

First Course - "Foie Course"

1. Grilled foie with almond cream, cherry confit and almond shavings.

2. Foie terrine "tree trunk sytle" and dehydrated plum (like fruit roll-up). This was a cross-section of a round terrine that had been lined on the outside with very thin strips of sponge cake - thus the cross section looked like a cross-section of a tree trunk. The foie was studded with bits of Perigord truffles.

3. Foie gras "creme brulee." Sitting atop was a small marble-sized ball of foie and Perigord truffle rolled in pumpernickel.

Second Course - "Fish Course"

1. Herb-crusted sea scallop sandwiching a thin shaving of Perigord truffle. Cumin sauce.

2. Herb-crusted loup de mer in a chorizo fumet.

3. John Dory crusted with a langoustine chibouste and thin octopus cross-section. Octopus cream sauce.

Third Course - "Soup Course"

1. Lemongrass-Curry soup with two shrimps and ramen noodles.

2. Chestnut cream with guinea fowl and generous Alba truffle shavings.

3. "Essence of quail" - quail consomme, pellet-sized vegetables, quail meat, poached quail egg and Perigord studded quenelle.

Fourth Course - "Meat Course"

1. Sicilian bacon-wrapped lamb, sliver of lamb tongue, and a potatoe fritter filled with lamb meat. It was all sitting in a chorizo sauce.

2. Veal "osso bucco" - small piece of braised veal in a demi glace with avocado mashed potatoes and a grilled scallion.

3. Venison in a elderberry sponge cake, elderberry sauce and roulade of cabbage.

Desserts

1. Orange blossom creme brulee

2. Chocolate cone filled with nougat cream, raspberry sauce.

3. Trio of ices: lemon sorbet, red wine and cassis sorbet, caramilized cinnamon ice cream.

4. A dome of "Kalimanza" (described as a Japanese fruit - I suspect from the taste that it was Yuzu) mousse inside a green geletin coating.

5. Quince gelatin with Moet Chandon champagne "cream sorbet."

6. Pecan souffle.

7. Guinduja chocolate fondant.

Petite Fours

Chocolate Truffle Carte

....details soon to come on my blog, hopefully...

U.E.

Edited November 13, 2005 by ulterior epicure (log)

[ulterior epicure]

both are located in castles. dieter müller's restaurant has been there for quite

some time and is decorated in an elegant and  luxurious, but conservative and a bit old fashioned way.

vendome is rather new (maybe three or four years old, in a completely

refurbished restaurant). the walls are wood panelled, boasting chandeliers with

offensively bright bare light-bulbs. The chairs, banks, and the room partitioners are covered with a cheesy beige cloth with golden imprints. In my opinion, the

restaurant tries to be luxurious in a rather aggressive way. Just not my cup of tea. But I'm sure that it appeals to many people. What is nice about the place,

though, is that when you enter the restaurant, the kitchen is visible through a large window.

←

malacintana.

sorry, but i actually thought that dieter mullers, despite the AWESOME food, was rather lacking in decor. i found the dining room kind of frumpy - with round casino brass bannisters running around the terrace of the upper deck and decidedly fake ivy hedging...

as for other german three stars - anyone have any opinions about heinz winkler, sonnora or im schiffen? recent experiences?

u.e.