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Huddersfield - lunch at the cookshop


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We’d been in Huddersfield for its food festival. In truth that wasn’t really worth the schlep but I had a decent sausage barm there – Argentinian beef, fried onions and a decent chimichurri sauce. And we bought the odd thing. There’s also a cookware shop in town that we visited and found it had a small restaurant.

The menu was mainly breakfasty and snacky salady things that would suit the “ladies who lunch”, who were forming almost all the customers. But there was also short menu of “proper” food, no doubt designed for the occasional bloke who might be brought along. So that was OK then.

Herself started with a small plate of olives and brioche which was OK. She then decided to be a “lunching lady” so went for one of the salads. But seeing as she’s northern went for the one that focussed on bacon and black pudding. This looked pretty good and I’d have been almost tempted myself. No chance of a taste though but I was assured that everything was up to scratch, even if the black pudding was one of those that you occasionally come across that has an element of sweetness in it. Yorkshire folk, eh!

Although not over my sausage barm, I still went for a starter. Mushrooms on toasted brioche. A bit so-so. Brioche was only lightly toasted, so the cream sauce had soaked in too much making it a bit soggy. Sauce was also a bit one dimensional – not quite a jug of cream simply poured over, but not far off, so overly sweet for my taste.

Main was slow roasted pork belly. Of course it was. Came with some spuds, carrots and green beans. And some caramelised apples (there’s that sweetness again). This was a big piece of tasty piggy and I enjoyed eating it. Would have enjoyed even more if the kitchen had done a proper job over crisping the crackling.

John Hartley

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