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AlexForbes

Ferran + Albert Adria to open casual resto in Barcelona in October

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Last weekend, the last tapas were served at Barcelona’s Bar Inopia, co-owned by Albert Adrià – but he’s been too busy working on another project to mourn over the closing (the place will soon reopen under a new name, Lolita).

Albert is opening with brother Ferran Adrià a restaurant, also in Barcelona. According to Pau Arenós, one of Spain’s top restaurant critics, wrote in Friday’s El Periodico newspaper:

“Albert in October will cut the ribbon of the new business, in association with Ferran and the Iglesias brothers, Pedro, Borja and Juan Carlos, owners of Rías de Galicia. He says “It’s in the Paral-lel district and still does not have a name. It will measure 300 square meters and have four bars. One will serve fried foods, shellfish and ham. Another, montaditos. The third will be a parrilla and there’s also one for desserts, very important”".

Arenós, always one to coin new terms, says Albert plans to devote half a year of intensive work to the “hipertapería”.

Click here to read the full article, in Spanish.


Alexandra Forbes

Brazilian food and travel writer, @aleforbes on Twitter

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UPDATE!

After talking to Albert Adrià himself, and also Ferran, I found out the opening has been postponed until January 2011.

Their "avant-garde tapas" place will be in the Paral-lel area of Barcelona.


Alexandra Forbes

Brazilian food and travel writer, @aleforbes on Twitter

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Hi Chris, the location is Paral lel (near the subway station with that same name) but

I don't know the street name or anything.

Albert told a common friend that they'll first open a cocktail bar, as early as Oct or Nov,

and then the actual "tapas bar" in January 2011....

I was at El Bulli recently and spoke to Ferran about it and he told me he and Albert are at this very moment very busy brainstorming what they'll have on the menu, doing tests, etc. They will be more involved now, before the place opens, than afterwards, since they won't actually run the place themselves, only supervise.


Alexandra Forbes

Brazilian food and travel writer, @aleforbes on Twitter

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Thanks for the update. I hope they keep Chema on the chef team.....you won't find a more hardworking, positive guy in any kitchen anywhere.

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From the NYT:

BARCELONA, SPAIN

Ferran Adrià has not abandoned his cultish fans. Not long after he announced that he would close El Bulli, his wildly acclaimed restaurant, in 2012, he and his brother, Albert, signed on with the chefs who own the landmark Spanish seafood restaurant Rías de Galicia. This month, the team plans to open a contemporary tapas bar called Tickets, as well as a cocktail bar, in the Parallel neighborhood. Tickets will be far less formal than El Bulli, though its food and space will embrace a sense of the theatrical, with “stages” set up throughout the restaurant. At one, classic seafood tapas, like red shrimps from Costa Brava and razor shells from Galicia, will be showcased; at another, more-experimental small plates will star, like artichokes with smoked Idiazábal cheese serum.

http://travel.nytimes.com/2011/01/09/travel/09restaurants.html


"I'll put anything in my mouth twice." -- Ulterior Epicure

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Tickets will be open in February. But 41º (next door to tickets) opens today. This is the new snac-bar by Ferrán Adrià serving some of El Bulli's signature dishes. No reservations allowed so you'd better go early.


Rogelio Enríquez aka "Rogelio"

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Does anyone have any information on getting a reservation at 'Tickets', I am travelling to Barcelona in May and had a look there at the bookings and it appears to be booked out for the entire year as the only spot not taken was for person in June, that was the only available slot till December.

Is this the case or will the reservation be opened up for the later months in due course?

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Tickets will be open in February. But 41º (next door to tickets) opens today. This is the new snac-bar by Ferrán Adrià serving some of El Bulli's signature dishes. No reservations allowed so you'd better go early.

Has anyone done this yet? How early is early enough to actually get inside?

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I am going mid-may. Originally booked to go to 41 degrees, but noticed they would only be doing snacks. So booked Tickets through their website about a month ago. They had some spaces in the evening, quite early for Barcelona standards, so will see how busy it will be. Originally I read that 41 would be reservation-free, but now it seems you have to get a reservation even for there!! Dont know if you get access to 41 if you are booked in Tickets as you have to enter tickets to get to 41??

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Just got back from Barcelona and Spanielking the answer is YES - you need a reservation in both cases, so you can't go to Tickets and then just wanter into 41o. 41o has a street entrance but can also be accessed via Tickets but no matter: you need a booking all the same, as this is a bar where ppl are not allowed to stand, meaning only those w a booked seat are allowed in.

I tasted a few bites (amazing) and a few drinks (also amazing) at 41o, then, thanks to a friend who'd snagged a rezy, moved on to Tickets for dinner. More on that as soon as I edit the photos!


Alexandra Forbes

Brazilian food and travel writer, @aleforbes on Twitter

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Tickets looks all booked up for the next 90 days. I'm looking for a reservation somewhere in July 21-27. Has anyone had much luck trying to get reservations from cancellations? In other words, should I keep checking their reservation site, or not bother at all?


Edited by Kent Wang (log)

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Just got back from Barcelona. Made it to 41 degrees. We didn't have a reservation to either, and tickets seemed impossible to get into, even with cancellations. We walked right in to 41 degrees at about 7 on a Monday or Tuesday night, so that might be the best way to get a walk in. The food was great. Spherical olives, air bread with Iberico ham, kim chi octopus, curried rice worms and my favorite, nordic snow were all on the menu with many more things that I can't remember off the top of my head. We ordered almost every snack on the menu, and everything was very good. The parmesan ice cream sandwich was a little too much parmesan for me, but in a smaller portion would have been amazing. The cocktails were good, but nothing that I expected. Most or all of them were classic cocktails, with also a list geared towards gin and tonics. I enjoyed my cocktails, but wasn't blown away, and even went to drinking cava by the end of the night. If you want a cocktail experience, I was blown away by the two gentleman behind the bar at Ohla, in the Ohla hotel. It is a tiny bar with two amazing bartenders and great drinks. They made me an amazing angostura based drink that was as good as any drink I have ever had. Next time I go, I will try for reservations to tickets, but the new concept in store for 41 degrees seems pretty cool. 41 degrees

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You can always count on the brothers Ferran and Albert Adrià to pull a surprising new move without doing much explaining....

41 Grados, the funky and avant-garde "bar" which served up until recently the brothers’ Bulli-style “snacks” and iconoclast drinks, is no more.

After being open for only a few months, it has ceased to exist in its original form and has quietly “morphed” into a tiny urban El-Bulli-type restaurant, which opened a few days ago (Oct 18 to be exact).

This new 41 Grados is not similar to Tickets, the brothers’ contemporary “tapas bar” next door, but much more ambitious in its gastronomic explorations.

Diners – a mere 14 lucky few of them – will be served a succession of 41 courses. Albert Adrià has been feverishly working on the menu for several months and is visibly excited to be going back to creating whatever wild stuff comes to his mind. He’s even designed the tableware to match the new “dishes”.

Older brother Ferran being too busy touring the world as the face of giant Telefonica as well as attending to several other engagements, such as promotional events for his latest book, Albert is clearly the one running the 41 Grados show.

As was customary at El Bulli, reservations for 41 Grados are only taken online, by email (experience@41grados.es). There is, however, an additional hurdle: tables are only available for even numbers of diners (no solo critics allowed, therefore): either two or four.

I went there 2 nights ago and all I can say is..... BOOK NOW! :biggrin:

Amazing.


Alexandra Forbes

Brazilian food and travel writer, @aleforbes on Twitter

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Anyone got any hints or tips for getting a booking here? I've been staying up til 12pm (Spanish time) waiting for the next days bookings to come online for weeks now - but they never seem to. Can get a booking at Tickets ok but it's 41Grados I'm really after at most any time or date.

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Anyone got any hints or tips for getting a booking here? I've been staying up til 12pm (Spanish time) waiting for the next days bookings to come online for weeks now - but they never seem to. Can get a booking at Tickets ok but it's 41Grados I'm really after at most any time or date.

I'm going to Barcelona/San Sebastian in early April so I emailed 41 degrees at experience@41grados.es. They responded that booking for April will start in mid-March.

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Ahhh great, thanks for that, looks like more late nights pressing refresh on the page then...!

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I am trying to come to grips with folks' obsession with 41.

One of the main reasons the Adria's closed Bulli was that it stopped being fun. The fun fifty person cocktail/dinner party out in the wilds turned into a fist fight of corporate types and foodies struggling for tables to buff their own egos rather than enjoy the experience.

I just spent two weeks in Barca and Donostia (San Pau, Rafa, Can Roca, Extebarre, Azurmendi, etc) and the most fun and best food I had was at Bar Tickets. The same dedicated crew runs both venues....the food is the substantially the same. I hit Tickets four times, and it is hard to imagine having more dishes or better dishes.

My strategy is to turn my night over to the servers and chefs, and just eat whatever they bring by. The crew at Tickets is so skilled and sensitive that you can develop a relationship with them in minutes. One sits at one of three or four bars staffed by chefs and waiters (their rank is displayed by the number of stars on their shoulders....though Albert is not above sending out a commis with a four-star jacket...just for laughs). Come back a time or two and they all know who you are, what you already tried, what you drink and what you like. Off menu dishes are there for the asking....well, a little subtlety.... and trust, is involved.

And fun.....I could not get Albert to admit it, but the name of the place comes from dialogue in Willy Wonka and The Chocolate Factory. My favorite bar at Tickets (there are about four....I did two) has the HD plasma TV where I got to watch Real v Barca Copa Real 2nd leg....surrounded by dozens of electronic Hello Kitty's doing their seig heil thing. The dessert cart comes complete with a funky bicycle bell as the chef wheels through the crowd....Adria food is delicious, beautiful....and fun! Food is fun...food is life. Food is not uptight.

My enduring memories of my nights and days at Tickets are: 1)a two star ranked chef at the Hello Kitty bar coming over to explain the cazuela pulpo dish: pigs' feet, garbanzos and octopus....simple and delicious in the Inopia mode. I admired the dish and with full eye contact he said "Este....me encanta!" This dish enchants me. The guy working 16 hours a day is still enchanted by his work. Normally, the under or not paid kitchen guys come nowhere near the guests. Albert has guys with skill, personality, and deep love of what they do.....that you can talk to! 2) my neighbor at the bar during the Real/Barca match was an Italian guy...a former chef at Boulevard, a Michelin one-star in San Francisco. We talked about restaurants, food, politics, soccer. Conversation increases the value of food...the staff at the bar, both chefs and servers were part of our discussions....; 3) My kooky wife pointed out the Willy Wonka thing to Albert, then admired the anise sprouts on his avocado cannoli/crab dish. Albert presented her with a planter full of the sprouts. She carried it everywhere with her in our two weeks....smuggled it back; 4) Badly dressed guy with no reservations had the executive chef come out and make guacamole with mint and erizos (sea urchin) from scratch with a fork and a spoon on a little tray next to the bar. He is ex French Laundry, ex Bulli, ex Who Knows...and is out in the dining room, inter-acting with the guests...even the lowest of us.

Bar Tickets has everything any food and service lover...with a sense of humor....would want.

And you are struggling to get into 41 because.....?

Your Viagra script ran out? You need to impress your banker?

Oh....and my bill for all the food a professional chef could possibly down.....plus a bottle of Cava Brut Nature, with refills....less than 100 euros.

To me Tickets is restaurant heaven....Paris in 1924. Hemingway and F. Scott at the bar.

Good luck with your 41 obsession.

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Txacoli,

That is good to hear. I decided to pass on 41 degrees (it's still probably too early to make a reservation for April) and made a reservation at Tickets for my last night in Spain. I will be having lunch at Can Roca that same day but I figure I should be okay by 21:30 for dinner at Tickets, right? It seems most people had great meals at Tickets by just allowing the waiter to bring out a variety of dishes. Did you just give them a limit in terms of price?

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      The sealed stems are placed in a 170 degree F water to cook, sous vide, until extremely tender; about three hours

      Broccoli stems after cooking
      The crisp bread element is fabricated via the use of an industrial deli slicer. Chef Grant then brushes the sectioned pieces of poached broccoli stem with eggwash, affixes them to the thin planks of brioche and places them in a fry pan with butter.

      Grant's mise...not your ordinary cutting board

      Poached Broccoli Stem and Crisp Bread cooking

      Ready for plating

      A bright green broccoli puree is made with a vita-prep blender. Here, Chef Grant "mohawks" it onto china given to him by Thomas Keller

      Smoked Coho roe has arrived via Fed-Ex, courtesy of Steve Stallard

      Chef Grant devises a plating scheme for the Poached Broccoli Stem while Curtis looks on

      Chef Grant ponders one potential plating of the dish. He called this incarnation 'predictable' and started over.

      Another plating idea. This version is garnished with broccoli petals and ultra-thin slices of connected grapefruit pulp cells. The yellow petals are stand-ins for what will ultimately be broccoli blossoms
      Grant is still displeased at the dish's appearance. "The dish tastes as I envisioned it....texturally complex, with the crispness of the bread, the soft elements of the floret puree and stem, and the pop of the eggs. The buttery richness from the bread gives the stem the flavor of the melted cabbage I loved at the [French] Laundry. And the hot and cold contrasts from the roe and broccoli …I like it…..I just don’t like the way it looks.” Another attempt and the group agrees, it is better but not “the one.” The use of the thinly sliced cross sections of peeled grapefruit energizes the group. In the next rendition, they make small packets with the ultra thinly-sliced grapefruit containing the roe...

      A third plating configuration for Poached Broccoli Stems; this one featuring the packets of roe wrapped in ultra thin sheets of grapefruit pulp cells
      At this point the team decides to move on and come back to it next week. After some conversation they decide that in the final dish, broccoli will appear in at least 5 forms: poached stems, floret puree, some raw form of the stem, the tiny individual sprouts of broccoli florets, and the blooms. Grant feels that Poached Broccoli Stem could be ready for service, although he still envisions some changes for the dish that will make it even more emblematic of his personal style. “Our dishes continue to evolve after they hit the menu. It is important for us to get to know them better before we can clearly see their weaknesses.”
      The thought for the dried crème brulee originated over a year ago when a regular customer jokingly asked for a crème brulee for dessert. “He said it as joke, I took it as a challenge,” says Grant. "Of course, we never intended to give him a regular crème brulee.” The team tried various techniques to create the powder-filled caramel bubble while at Trio to no avail. An acceptable filling for the Dried Crème Brulee has been developed by the Chef and his team but several different methods, attempted today, to create the orb from caramelized sugar have been less than 100% successful.

      Caramel blob awaiting formation. Chef Curtis kept this pliable by leaving it in a low oven throughout the day

      Chef Grant’s initial idea to use a metal bubble ring and heat gun (normally used for stripping paint) to form the bubbles does not work as hoped. Attempts to fashion them by hand also come up short.
      Says Grant, “At Trio we tried a hair-dryer. When Martin told me about these heat guns which get up to 900 degrees F, I thought we had it for sure. If it was easy everyone would do it I guess.” Eventually, Alinea partner Nick Kokonas garners the task’s best result by positioning a small, warm blob of sugar onto the end of a drinking straw and blowing into the other end. The results are promising. Curtis suggests using a sugar pump to inflate the orbs. That adjustment will be attempted on another day.
      “We intentionally position whimsical bite in the amuse slot, it tends to break the ice and make people laugh. It is a deliberate attempt to craft the experience by positioning the courses in a very pre-meditated order. A great deal of thought goes into the order of the courses, a misalignment may really take away from the meal as a whole.” For PB&J, the grapes are peeled while still on the vine and then dipped into unsweetened peanut butter. They are allowed to set–up, and then they are wrapped with a thin sheet of bread and lightly toasted. When the peeled grapes warm, they become so soft they mimic jelly. The composition is strangely unfamiliar in appearance but instantly reminiscent on the palate. PB&J is, according to Grant, virtually ready for service. There are a couple of aesthetic elements, which need minor tweaks but the Chef feels very good about today’s prototype.

      Chef John peels grapes while still on their stems

      Peeled grapes on their stems with peanut butter coating

      Chef Grant studies the completed PB&J in the Crucial Detail designed piece

      PB&J
      Often, creative impulses come by way of Alinea’s special purveyors. “Terra Spice’s support over the past couple of years has been unprecedented, and it has accelerated with the start of the food lab,” says Grant. “It is great to have relationships with people that think like we do, it can make the creative process so much easier. Often Phil, our contact at Terra, would come into the kitchen at Trio and encourage us to try and stump him on obscure ingredients. We always lost, but not from lack of trying. He even brought in two live chufa plants into the kitchen one day.” The relationship has developed and Terra team has really made an effort to not only search out products that the chefs ask for but also keep an eye out for new ingredients and innovations. In August, Phil brought by some samples of products that he thought the Alinea team might be interested in trying.

      Phil of Terra Spice showing the team some samples

      Coconut powder and other samples
      Grant recalls “the most surprising item to me was the dried coconut powder. When I put a spoonful in my mouth I could not believe the intense flavor and instant creamy texture, it was awesome.” That was the inspiration for what is now Instant Tropical Pudding. The guest is presented with a glass filled with dried ingredients. A member of the service team pours a measured amount of coconut water into the glass and instructs the guest to stir the pudding until a creamy consistency is formed.

      The rum-spiked coconut water being added to the powders
      At the end of the day, the Chefs assess their overall effort as having gone “fairly well.” It’s a mixed bag of results. Clearly, the fact that things have not gone perfectly on Day 1 has not dampened anyone’s spirits. The team has purposely attempted dishes of varying degrees of difficultly in order to maximize their productivity. Says Grant, “Making a bubble of caramel filled with powder…I have devoted the better part of fifteen years to this craft, I have trained with the best chefs alive. I have a good grasp of known technique. The lab's purpose is to create technique based on our vision. Sometimes we will succeed, and sometimes we will fail, but trying is what make us who we are." The team's measured evaluations of their day’s work reflect that philosophy.
      According to Chef Grant, “The purpose of the lab is to create the un-creatable. I know the level at which we can cook. I know the level of technique we already possess. What I am interested in is what we don't know...making a daydream reality.” With little more than 100 days on the calendar between now and Alinea’s opening, the Chef and his team will have their work cut out for them.
      =R=
      A special thanks to eGullet member yellow truffle, who contributed greatly to this piece
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