The New Portuguese Table by David Leite

[John DePaula]

I just received The New Portuguese Table by David Leite for Christmas (I had it on my Amazon wish list), and it's got me very excited about getting to know Portuguese cuisine. The book seems to be very well written. It's great that he has included alternatives to ingredients which may be difficult for some to find e.g. in the recipe for Cheese-Stuffed Pork Tenderloin, he specifies for cheese 'Nisa, São Jorge, or Pecorino Romano' cheese. I've never heard of the first two but I'll sure look for them the next time I'm at the market. (always nice to learn about a new-to-me cheese)

Some have complained that the recipes are not the classic Portuguese recipes. Personally I prefer modern interpretations of classic cuisine which can often be too heavy for today's palate. As for the recipes being updated from the original versions, well it *is* called 'The New Portuguese Table,' after all. At any rate, he does include classical as well of alternative preparations for many, which I find to be a nice touch.

I think he has included quite a good variety of recipes here; just can't decide where to get started: The Salt-Cod of my Future [sic] or Cheese-Stuffed Pork Tenderloin. It all looks just delicious!

By the way, lots of nice attention to detail in the beautiful photos, as well. Hat tip to Nuno Correia.

In my estimation, a fine piece of work. Bravo!

So do you have this book and if so, what have you cooked from it?

[LindaK]

This is probably my next cookbook purchase. I've cooked from the Portuguese recipes on his web site Leite's Culinaria for a while now and have found them to be reliable and delicious.

In fact, since I tried it a few years ago, his recipe for Pork and Clams has become a tradition for my Christmas tree trimming dinner for a group of friends and their kids. A definite crowd-pleaser, plus easily multiplied for a crowd, mostly (all but the clams) make-able ahead of time, and the clams make it a special treat. Never any leftovers, and I make a lot.

[djyee100]

...he specifies for cheese 'Nisa, São Jorge, or Pecorino Romano' cheese. I've never heard of the first two but I'll sure look for them the next time I'm at the market. (always nice to learn about a new-to-me cheese)...

A version of Sao Jorge cheese, south of the border from you--St George cheese, made at the Matos cheese factory in Santa Rosa, Ca. An excellent cheese, served at the top restaurants around here. I like it plain on the cheese board, and I've also added it to a tomato & caramelized onion tart, with yummy results.

http://www.laurawerlin.com/cotm_stgeorge.html

I'll have to take a look at that cookbook the next time I'm in the bookstore.

ETA: The price quoted on that link sounds way out of date.

Edited December 29, 2009 by djyee100 (log)

[lamington]

I've had the book for a while and reviewed it. The recipes seem fine and I've made some tasty dishes from it, but I don't think that Leite should get to do a very subjective "new" Portuguese without some criticism. A book that takes you on a (mapless!) tour of regional cookery, yet tweaks, reworks or loosely extrapolates can yield good food, but doesn't necessarily do much for the reader's understanding of principles and origins in my opinion.

[John DePaula]

NOTE: I referred to one dish above as "The Salt-Cod of my Future [sic]" and realized (or it was pointed out to me) that it may have caused some confusion. It was supposed to be somewhat 'tongue-in-cheek' (not intended literally/seriously). It was a joke that might not have come across if a) you are not a native speaker of English or b) you didn't know that the actual name of the dish is "The Salt-Cod of my Childhood." I meant it as a compliment to the recipe that it looked so good I can clearly see it in my future.

Sorry for the confusion.

[John DePaula]

Congratulations to David for his award from IACP for this book.

You can read about all the winners, here: International Association of Culinary Professionals 2010 Awardees.