Cheese stores

[Liza]

What makes cheese shops in France superior to the ones we have here is the level of affinage compared to U.S. shops.

And that they're allowed to sell raw milk cheeses.

Damn Kraft and their little green bottle.

[Bux]

The shop on 3rd is indeed Lamazou, and they do a little affinage on a small scale.

I don't really know this shop well. It's outside my general range of shopping areas, but I understand they do what they do well when it comes to cheese. They carry only what they can sell. My daughter used to live nearby and touted it highly. The secret to a good cheese shop is not to have a wide selection, but to only offer that which is in prime condition.

Too many places aim to be great before they come close to being good. I'm afraid I've had problems with Murray's at times, although I dont know of any that's better in this respect. There's more than a willingness to sell cheeses that are over the hill. They'll risk selling it to a connoiseur and losing future business rather than trash it. In NY, you have to know your cheese to be sure of making a reasonable purchase. In France, as Steve suggested, all you need do is find the best shops in any small town by word of mouth, and take their advice. As for a cheese that's ready in four days and they might inquire if it's to be eaten at lunch or dinner. Knowing your cheese isn't that much of a help here either as you can't often touch or smell the cheese and that's only useful if the cheese isn't cold.

Selling cheese in NY is a business, not a "metier." One specialty shop where that isn't true is DiPalo's on Grand Street. I can almost guarantee Louis knows more about Italian cheeses, or at least those he carries, than anyone at Murray's, Artisanal or Fairway. Shop there in the middle of the week when it's not busy, be sure Louis is there and that you speak directly to him. He can dscribe the difference between summer parmesan and that made from milk in the winter. Ask which is better and he'll tell you about the differences in taste, but rarely can you get him to impose his tastes. Beyond the range of Italian cheeses, his selction is small. He often has an excellent Boucheron, but just as often he's out of it. It's not a big seller of his and he's more interested in not having it get to the point where it's over the hill than being out of it. It prevents him from selling bad merchandise or throwing away food. As a result, his prices are very low. He's a reliable source of excellent gruyere and emanthaler. I see the same rind stampings in other shops and DiPalo's prices are always lower. He also sells sliced American cheese. He supplies his customer's needs and never insults his client's tastes. I've at times tried to tout a higher grade of olive oil or balsamic vinegar to a customer near me and when that customer has left, Louis will tell me that the grade he was buying was a step up from his previous purchase and the much better grade will not be appreciated and a waste of money for the customere at this time. He'll educate you as much or as little as you indicate you want to be.

By the way, they're moving across the street and Thanksgiving and Christmast are two of their busiest times. So be warned.

[Wilfrid]

I concur with those views on Lamazou. I used to live nearby and shopped there regularly. The owner is a charming gentleman from Tunisia, but he certainly has a passion for French cheese. It is a small store, and a lot of their regular business is making and selling sandwiches, but I recommend trying it for soft French cheeses especially - Vacherin in season, Reblochon, Pont L'Eveque, Munster, Livarot. They have some decent hams and charcuterie, and an odd obsession with British grocery items (as if they bought ten per cent of their stock from Myers of Keswick) - McVitie's chocolate digestives, Piccalilli, and so on.

I used to go elsewhere when I needed to choose from a wider selection, but I am happy to give them a boost here. They deserve support - not least, echoing Bux, because I believe they sell the cheese out of love; there's probably more money in selling sandwiches.

Contact details.

[wingding]

Bux;Thanks for mentioning DePalos'-I've learned most of what I know about Italian cheeses there,and have never met a more generous proprietor.A recent cheese that he had me taste,and that I love,is Bitto;a semi hard cows' milk cheese from Valtellina