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Spain, a country that "gets" wine


Ron Johnson

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  • 4 weeks later...

The Dec. 15 issue of Wine Specator has a section called "Spain's Shifting Landscape - new wine regions show promise, and Priorat claimes the high ground of quality".

The lead graph: "Whether you are looking for powerful, new-wave reds, traditional reds with elegance and grace, or good values from a wide range of grape varieties, count on the country's diverse and dynamic bodegas to put just the right bottle on your table. The principal difficulty in exploring this bounty is keeping up with the emergence of new producers and new vineyard regions".

I can photocopy any interested readers and/or drinkers. :smile:

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Contrary to what people believe, the Koran does not forbid the imbibing of alcohol. It forbids intoxication,so the refusal to sit down at a table where wine is being served is a fundamentalist variation,not a mainstream Muslim rule.

Liza, I know Priorat is getting a lot of publicity at the moment but I drank a lot of it with knowledgeable wine people in Penedes last year and I found it heavy going compared to top Riojas and some of the best wines from other regions eg. Chivite wines from Navarre, some Ribeiro Del Duero wines and even other wines from the Penedes area. To me they tasted like they needed a lot more time.

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94s-98s I think. They tasted very "thick" and heavy to me. Lots of extract. Nothing elegant or subtle about them.

Which is why they get so much press right off the bat. The same thing happened with Barossa Shiraz. These huge heavily extracted low yeild reds draw a lot of attention and praise because they are so bold and I think because they are seen as an alternative to huge highly extracted cult cabs from CA. It's certainly a popular style and one that commands a lot of money, but it begets misleading generalizations about the wines from the country.

Spain is curious because older Rioja's made in the traditional manner are beautiful wines that can mimic the finesse of older Nebbiolos. These wines are nothing like the wines of Priorato. As a side note, there is a specific type of clay that exisits in Priorato and then goes way underground only to reappear in the Douro Valley. I make a connecetion between the extract of Priorato and the dense inkiness of Touriga Nacional. It's only one component.

My favorite region is Ribera del Duero. Very much new world without being cloying. Most of the wines I've enjoyed from there are good to go right now. Tinta del Pais is low in acid so I'll have to wait and see if these wines age but their value is remarkable.

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When the use of oak is not heavy-handed, Spanish reds can be wonderful, especially Rioja, Ribera del Duero, and Priorat.

I have seen great riojas mistaken for burgundy when they are at their medium-bodied best. I think it is a mistake to try to manipulate the tempranillo grape into a cab copycat. Although often thought of as less of a wine, I prefer crianzas in many instances because of the less dominant role of oak.

Also for whites, the albarino from Rias Baxis is a very interesting wine.

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