Digest: 2009 Paris Restaurant Reviews

[John Talbott]

The Week of January 5th, 2009

Tuesday in Le Fooding Sebastien Demorand reviewed Mon Oncle, coordinates given before, where he encountered Quentin Tarantino and Melanie Laurent and good food such as an anthologic côte de bœuf, cochonnailles, l’os à moelle, morteau aux lentilles and a Mont d’Or and good well-priced wine.

Tuesday as well, in ANP, Philippe Toinard reviewed Antoine, coordinates already given, prices a bit more elevated (198 E for a whole bar de ligne) than the prior review indicated. His colleague Jerome Berger reviewed Le Bouco ex-Boucleon, coordinates ditto, where he commented on the reasonable prices and smiling service. The sidebar briefly noted La Fidelite, coordinates given, commenting on the cod and pot-au-feu.

Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin in Figaroscope opened the year with two two-heart reviews: La Fidelité, coordinates given, which he calls a “sincere effort” offering asparagus blanquette, pot-au-feu of pork cheeks and lemon tart and the Café Moderne, ditto, noting that it has regularly changed hands but now has a more expensive carte but OK menus (30 and 39 €, noon and nite) for fois gras, beef filet and a vanilla millefeuille. His three one-hearters included: the Italian Romantica Caffé Villiers in the 17th (an offshoot of the one in Clichy;) Les Enfants Perdus, 9, rue des Recollets in the 10th, 01.81.29.48.26, closed Sunday dinner, lunch formula = 13 and a la carte 35-40 € for pumpkin soup, a tartine, chicken and overcooked scallops; and the Restaurant du Marriott, 70 ave Champs-Elysees, 01.53.93.55.00, open everyday, lunch formula = 35, menu = 45 and a la carte 50-60 € for crab cake, chicken fricassee and chocolate tart fondante.

In this week’s “Dossier” Emmanuel Rubin listed the openings/events of 2009 {some of which have already been mentioned here or in the “Restaurant, Food and Chef News” topic:

January

Le Glou, a bistro launched by Julien Fouin, formerly editor of Régal and now with Cuisine TV, on the rue Vieille-du-Temple,

Le Barbezingue, a new hangout will be opened in Châtillon by the bistronomic Thierry Faucher (L'Os à Moelle, la Cave de l'Os à Moelle + Les Symples),

Le Cristal Room will pass from the direction of Thierry Burlot to Guy Martin, (Le Grand Véfour + Miyou)

Le Bus, 6, rue Pierre Fontaine, in the 9th, will open a resto between nightclub shows,

February-March-April

Daniel Rose version large will be opened by the “Jack Kerouac of the ovens,” on the rue Bailleul,

L'Arbuci, Corso + Balto on the rue Buci, place Frantz-Litz + blvd Magenta, respectively by Costes Junior,

Le Thoumieux, 79, rue Saint-Dominique, by Thierry Costes and Jean-François Piège, of Les Ambassadeurs,

Food in shop [sic]

Ralph Lauren

Bilboquet, 13, rue Saint-Benoît, again by the Costes,

Camdeborde côté comptoir, 3, carrefour de l'Odéon, for l'apéro,

L'Energie Lounge Café, 32, avenue George-V ex-Renoma Café, by Thierry Marx from Cordeilhan-Bages, Ozu + Laboratoire,

May-June

Le 104, 5, rue Curial, a bar run by the Tokyo Eat team, in June, a resto run by the gang from the Friche Belle de Mai, from Marseille.

Later

Le Bec, Nicolas, from Lyon takes over a restaurant at the Opéra Garnier,

Royal Monceau, avenue Hoche, opens several restaurants,

Shangri-La, in the 8th

Mandarin, in the 1st.

Last minute

D'Chez Eux, sold,

Brespail, replaced by an Italian place,

Relais de l'Entrecôte, opens another on the place du Maréchal-Juin,

la Pizzetta, opens a “little sister.”

And also

The Hôtel Hi of Nice will open a twin on the rue de Charonne in September,

Délicabar, at Bon Marché, henceforth run by the Italians from the Casa Bini, will host pâtissier Sébastien Gaudard’s tea salon

Ippudo, a Japanese ramen chain, will open several places.

Without forgetting several places that opened in 2008

La Table du Palace

Derriere

Jadis +

Antoine.

Comings and Goings

L'École du thé du Palais des Thés, 7, rue de Nice,

L’École de cuisine Alain-Ducasse in the 16th, www.atelier-gastronomique.com.

New sales sites

www.fraicolo.fr, an online supermarket,

www.albertmenes.fr, from Albert Ménès,

Shopping tours in Paris

Succulent Paris, www.succulent-paris.com.

New concepts

Les Mécanos du gout, butcher-drugstore at 4 bis, avenue Joffre, in Houilles,

Les Marguerite, in Paris next March.

In his “Hache Menu,” Francois Simon says about going to the Casa Luca in the 8th – an Italian place occupying the ex-Cap Vernet space - “Naaaaaaan!”

Wednesday, as well, Richard Hesse in Paris Update reviewed the Delices Shandong in the 13th, liking it.

Jean-Claude Ribault in this Wednesday-Thursday’s Le Monde wrote about how chefs are adapting to the economic crisis. {I’ve posted his findings here.}

Thursday in l’Express, there was a “last interview” by Francois-Regis Gaudry with Gaston Lenotre and on their website there’s a slide show.

Thursday in Le Point, Gilles Pudlowski said to follow Meating + Laduree le bar, that the Relais Plaza + Momoka are in good shape and gives several places to eat at in Compeigne and Vienne.

Friday there were three pieces on the death of Gaston Lenotre summarized on that topic. Jacques Pessis’s obit was one.

Saturday in his “Croque Notes” Francois Simon wrote about la Cigale d’Or in Seillonnaz.

He also wrote a piece of his New Year’s complaints, that included:

Too many types of bread.

4 figure bills.

Beets.

Artistic desserts.

Church service type ceremonial meals.

Amuse bouches the size of dinners.

Forcing the diner to hear a recitation of the menu.

Souless but expensive wines.

The Michelin's somnolence; in Paris for example regarding Paul Bert + Le Comptoir.

Also, in Saturday’s Figaro, Alexandra Michot and Francois Simon wrote an article on the trends we’ll see in 2009:

Return of the dinner show: for example at the Palace, Bus Palladium + VIP Room Theater and jazz at Bilboquet or operatic at the Garnier.

Local food not slow food: 160 km max plus Japanese and artisanal influences.

The Michelin tapping up le Bristol + Michel Roth’s Ritz.

Guy Martin’s replacing his lost star with 10 activities: restos (Grand Vefour, Miyou, Cristal Room), lessons (l’Atelier,) a book and TV.

The fruit of the year – cedrat (Buddha’s hand).

The accessory of the year – an apple-peeler (replacing the mandolin).

Palace news – extension of the Bristol, new brasserie at Les Crayeres, renovation of the Crillon, Piege’s move to Thoumieux and reopening of several places at the Royal Monceau.

Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, John Talbott wrote two essays: on about his Ten Best Meals in 2008 and the other on What it takes to write food criticism well.

Sunday, in the JDD, Aurelie Chaigneau summarized places to go for soup:

Le Bar a soups

Zoe Bouillon

Soup & Juice

Bar a soups et quenelles.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of January 12th, 2009

Tuesday, Le Fooding, Anna Polonsky reviewed Glou a wine plus food place at 101, rue Vieille du Temple in the 3rd, closed Tuesdays, featuring grands crus and natural wines plus the usual charcuterie but also boudin noir, pork belly and yogurt with jam for about 30 €.

Tuesday as well, in ANP, Jerome Berger wrote a “portrait” of the Rose Bakery both the original in the 9th and 2 in the 3rd.

Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin in Figaroscope gave two hearts to only one place, Glou, coordinates see above, which he calls the bobo-baby-loft bistro next door, serving smoked white tuna, sardinillas and an ample wine list for about 25-35; lunch formula = 17 €. The one heart reviews were of Les Tontons 2, 73 rue Brancion in the 15th, 01.45.33.87.22 open 7/7 (a spin-off of Les Tontons in the 14th) features tartars of horsemeat, an aller-retour and brie on menus of 12.9 (lunch), 15.5 and 19 €; another Bistrot de l’Entrecote, 10, pl Marechal-Juin in the 17th, 01.46.22.01.22, open 7/7, (inspired by the Relais de l’Entrecote), serving a 25 € menu and a la carte 30-35 €, serving a “pathetic” fricassee of cuttlefish and sad pot-au-feu; and the revived Comptoir Tournon, 18, rue de Tournon in the 6th, 01.43.26.16.16, serving oeufs mayo, cod filet and lots of lentils for 25-35 €. He also awarded a busted heart to the Japanese Oto-Oto in the 6th, with menus of 58 and 78 €.

Wednesday, as often happens in France, they worry about “detoxing” from the holiday calorie/sugar gluttony and Figaroscope’s “ Dossier” by Colette Monsat, Alexandra Michot & Sylvain Verut was all about such places:

Le Bar a soups for soup

Le Bar Regency du Prince de Galles for a chic salad

Rose Bakery 2 for veggies

O Jardin for a plat du jour

Pouse Ouse for herbal juice and raw chocolate

97 Bio for a lunch formula

Phyto Bar for green tea and goji berries

Myberry for fresh fruit juice

Hotel de Sers for a “light” meal

Diet Café for good an sane food,

and then a brief interview with a diet “coach” from San Francisco – Valerie Orsini – who recommends ‘saba.”

In his “Hache Menu,” Francois Simon reviewed the almost empty Citrus Etoile in the 8th where the 49 € “menu” is especially light at lunch with an asparagus (in January) amuse bouche, 1980-era salmon and caramelized marinated roast cod made like herring. Go again? Not so sure despite the good service.

Wednesday, as well, Richard Hesse in Paris Update reviewed a favorite of his: Alfred, (the one in the 1st not the 16th), where he sampled the artichoke hearts, celery soup, stewed lamb, roast veal, a Beaufort and apple tart. {He questions if the cost (50-60 € without wine) has kept people away and I must say that’s why I’ve looked at the carte but not entered.}

Wednesday, the NYT had an article by Elaine Sciolino on Francois Simon entitled “In Paris, a critic criticized” of which we have a topic running.

Jean-Claude Ribault, in this Wednesday-Thursday’s Le Monde wrote about ice wines and where to get them (Caves Augé in Paris).

Thursday in l’Express, Francois-Regis Gaudry reviewed La Mere Brazier in Lyon and the less than 30 E restaurant in Paris with an impeccable menu was Le Beaujolais d’Auteuil

Thursday in Le Point, Gilles Pudlowski said to follow La Paiva, that the Antoine is in good shape and gives several places to eat at in Champagne and the Rhone Alps.

Saturday in his “Croque Notes” Francois Simon wrote about Glou, coordinates given before, that he calls the restaurant of the month.

Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp wrote about “Goodbye Gaston Lenotre & Bristol“ and John Talbott wrote an essay on “The Hero’s Farewell: Stepping off the Stage.”

Sunday, in the NYT there was a “Bites” piece on Itineraires by Ann Morrison; and an article on Fontainebleau suggesting the Hotellerie du Bas Breau + Chez Bernard.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of January 19th, 2009

Tuesday in Le Fooding, Marie Aline reviewed Thoumieux, coordinates given, where the ex-Crillion chef is cooking items such as pasta with ham and comté, œuf mayo, steak tartare, confit de canard, foie gras and a vegetable terrine, Landes chicken and fries for about 50 euros a person.

Tuesday as well, in ANP, Philippe Toinard sampled two places: the 4/5 Glou, coordinates above, where he lists a lot more dishes than the previous reviewers (Utah Beach oysters, fois gras pate, shrimp, poitrine of pork and yogurt) and the 2/5 Bistrot de l’Entrecote, ditto coords, where he also seems to like the lentil salad, pot au feu and beef tartare, fricassee of supions, duck, herring and potatoes, oeuf mayo and veal kidneys but not the over-salted pumpkin soup.

Tuesday in l’Express, Francois-Regis Gaudry called Glou, coordinates given before, not a “Table d'hôte? Bar à vin? Bistrot de charme?” but the best hideaway of the rentrée.”

Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin in Figaroscope gave one heart to five places: Cristal Room Baccarat, coordinates well known, now under the direction of Guy Martin, costing 80-100 € for carrot soup, crab, entrecote and chocolate soufflé; the tea salon The Aux 3 Cerises in the 7th; the Slavic-Cossack-Georgian place Deda in the 1st; the sandwicherie Goutu in the 9th and D’Chez Eux, same address with a new chef who fixes snails, roast coquelet, duck confit and a mille-feuille.

Wednesday, Figaroscope’s “ Dossier” by Colette Monsat, Alexandra Michot & Sylvain Verut was all about business lunch places:

In the city

Itineraire

Café Moderne

Jadis

153 Grenelle

Le Cameleon

Fermin le Barbier

Nearby suburbs

Ducote Cuisine

Chartier

Barocco.

In his “Hache Menu,” Francois Simon reviewed l’Assiette, coordinates given, which cost 3 folks 137 € and he says he’ll revisit.

Wednesday, as well, Richard Hesse in Paris Update reviewed Chez Leon, (the one in the 8th), where he says it serves 1950’s café food like eggs mayo and pot au feu and does not rave about it.

Jean-Claude Ribault, in this Wednesday-Thursday’s Le Monde wrote about drunch at the MiniPalais now under the direction of the folks from l’Ami Louis with a single price (28 €) meal Sundays 6-11 PM with a soup or daily plate from the chalkboard, then salads, eggs, lox, cold meats, frites, veggies and desserts from the rolling cart.

Thursday in Le Point, Gilles Pudlowski said Benoît + La Closerie des Lilas, are in good shape and to follow Sers.

Saturday in his “Croque Notes” in Le Figaro, Francois Simon wrote about the Relais Plaza, a longer version of which is on his Simon Says blog. Also on his blog Tuesday, he called his meal at Epigramme impeccable. Ironically, Alexander Lobrano, Friday in his blog also lauded l’ Epigramme.

Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, John Talbott wrote an essay on “New Year, Old Friends.”

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of January 26th, 2009

Tuesday in Le Fooding, Sebastien Demorand reviewed the Brasserie Bordelaise, in Bordeaux.

Tuesday as well, in ANP, Philippe Toinard dined at the 3/5 Le Clou de Fourchette, 121, rue de Rome in the 17th, 01. 48.88.09.97, a la carte 20-30 €, situated in colorful surroundings, serving such fare as a pork terrine, smoked tuna sausage, a mixed vegetable dish , soups and meats (thus something for everyone); and Jerome Berger gave 3/5 dots to Mon Oncle coordinates given before, serving red onion tempura, a faux filet with pepper, and pears with almonds. Also, on the side bar, news of the Meatings serving more than Black Angus beef – including cod, crab and tuna; as well as the closing of the Delicabar in Bon Marche replaced by an annex of the Casa Bini called Primo Piano, serving wines and grilled veggies and cold coffee.

Tuesday in l’Express, Pierrick Jégu picked as his resto under 30 € Philippe et Jean-Pierre, coordinates given before and Yves Nespoulous picked as his under 30 € place : the oyster bar at l'Huîtrière in Lille.

Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin in Figaroscope rated as 3/4 hearts, the private salon/show room La Chocolaterie de Jacques Genin, 133, rue de Turenne in the 3rd, 01.45.77.29.01, closed Sundays and open other days from 11 AM to 9 PM, serving “brilliant” éclairs, millefeuilles, etc and gave two hearts to the feminine reprise of Rouge Gorge, coordinates in the guidebooks, costing 13.50 for the lunch formula and about 30 € a la carte for gizzard salad, entrecote and chocolate mousse. He also tested and gave 1/4 hearts to the Indian Gwadar in the 1st; the reprised (by Thierry Costes and Jean Francois Piege) cult brasserie Thoumieux, coordinates in the books, costing 40-50 € for leeks vinegarette, scallops, cassoulet and gourmandises; and the Point Bar, same location, which has passed from Alice Bardet to her sister Valerie, with menus at 14 and 21 € for lunch and dinner respectively and a la carte 35-45 € for oeufs mayo, chicken with mashed potatoes and a warm tart tatin.

Figaroscope’s Dossier this week concerned cooking schools in Paris that Colette Monsat and colleagues “tested” {the details and descriptions should stay on the website for several weeks}:

Atelier des sens

Wa-bi Salon

L'École de dégustation

Atelier Guy Martin

Atelier des Chefs, Lafayette Maison

Bar du Park Hyatt Vendôme

Parole in Cucina

École Ritz Escoffier

Le Cordon Bleu

École Lenôtre

Chef Martial

Alain Cirelli.

In addition, there is a ranking of pizzas in Paris compiled by the Figaroscope team that includes our very own Julien Tort {it’s in pdf only so I’ll give you the top ones only}:

Bistrot Napolitain + Pizza Chic

Pasta e Basta + Pizza Positano

Sale & Pepe + La Pizzetta.

In his “Hache Menu,” Francois Simon reviewed one of these, the Pizzetta, where it cost 144.50 € for four and he says to go from time to time.

Wednesday, as well, Richard Hesse in Paris Update reviewed L’Ordonnance, where he liked the food, especially the serious meat.

Jean-Claude Ribault, in this Wednesday-Thursday’s Le Monde wrote about the Bocuse contest, reported elsewhere and upscale crepes.

Thursday in Le Point, Gilles Pudlowski said Les terrines + Jadis are in good shape and he’s following Le bistrot de Charenton + D'chez eux.

Saturday in his “Croque Notes” in Le Figaro and blog, Francois Simon wrote about a meal at L’Avant Gout, with the recently deceased Raymond Buren.

Sunday, in the JDD Aurelie Chaigneau wrote about “sales” in Paris restaurants, which mainly means reductions in prices charged for wines, water and plats du jour. Restaurants involved include: l’Escapade, La Cantoche Paname, Au p’tit bouchon + Market as well as the truffles at market price at Alain Ducasse’s places – Spoon, Benoit, Rech + Aux Lyonnais.

Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, John Talbott wrote an essay entitled “Oh my, I’ve ruined this place.”

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of February 2nd, 2009

Tuesday in Le Fooding, Sebastien Demorand reviewed Barbezingue, 14, bd. de la Liberté, Chatillion, 01 49 85 83 50, another Thierry Faucher (L’Os à Moelle)-offshoot, this a combo bistro-winebar-table d’hote-etc for the suburbanites, serving oysters and foie gras, snails, rabbit shoulder and a baba, 17 € for the table d’hote, 30 for the menu, count on 40-45 € a la carte.

Tuesday as well, in ANP, Philippe Toinard dined at the 3/5 Le Petit Champarrret, 30 rue Vernier in the 17th, 01.43.80.01.39, closed weekends, running about 30-50 € for gravlax, cod, panna cotta and citrus dessert. Jerome Berger gave 3/5 dots to Mets Gusto, 79, rue de la Tour in the 16th, 01.40.72.84.46, closed Sunday and Mondays, running one about 50 € for an ex-Ducassian’s fare of chicken with lardo, pulpo, pied de porc and clafoutis. There were also two notes in the center strip: one about the Italian Divinamente Italiano in the 2nd and the other – the guide of young chefs that includes mention in Paris of Drouant, Mon Vieil Ami, Itineraires, Ze Kitchen Galerie, l’Ami Jean, Les Saveurs de Flora + La Gazzetta.

Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin in Figaroscope rated as 2/4 hearts, Leclou de Fourchette, 121, rue de Rome in the 17th, 01.48.88.09.97, closed Sundays, costing about 25-35 € for porkybits, a duck brochette with prunes and rice pudding as well as Mon Oncle, coordinates given before, where he liked the Milanese minestrone, boudin with mashed potatoes and cheese from the nearby Virginie. One heart each went to: the trattoria La Maison de Matteo, in the 9th and Bon Bec, 235 bis, rue St-Charles in the 15th, 01.45.54.05.31, closed Saturday lunch, Sunday and Monday dinner, costing about 30 € a la carte (19 formula) for onion grantinee, blanquette of veal and profiteroles. A broken heart went to Heureux Comme Alexandre, 2, impasse Berthaud in the 3rd, 01.48.87.88.22, closed Sundays, costing 15-25 € for a poor-price-quality meal consisting of a bourgignon fondue.

Figaroscope’s Dossier this week covered dining in the 16th:

Best best

l’Astrance

Best décor

Cristal Room

Best bistrot

Le Beaujolais d’Auteuil

Best seafood

Antoine

Best in the woods

Le Pre Catalan

Best stainless steel

Le Stella

Best come-back

Zebra Square

Best sushi

Comme des Poissons

Best putting on the dog

Le Murat

Best annex

Etc.

In his “Hache Menu,” Francois Simon reviewed another one in the 16th, Tokyo Eat, which he says is one of the pure pleasures of Paris at 80 € for two.

Wednesday, as well, Richard Hesse in Paris Update reviewed Le Cigale Recamier, coordinates given before, which he describes as busy, busy, busy, a fact that ruined his meal – everything about it was “detestable” except the food.

Jean-Claude Ribault, in this Thursday-Friday’s Le Monde wrote that all was not well with ham.

Saturday in his “Croque Notes” in Le Figaro and blog, Francois Simon wrote about a meal at Firmin.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of February 9th, 2009

Tuesday in Le Fooding, Sebastien Demorand reviewed the Italian Caffe dei Cioppi, in the 11th.

Tuesday as well, in ANP, Philippe Toinard dined at the 3/5 Villa Pereire, 116, blvd Pereire in the 17th, 01.43.80.88.68, closed Sundays, menus at 24.50 and 29.50 €, serving dorade, scallops, risotto and vacherin. In addition there was a short note about the return of Gilles Choukroun at MBC, 4, rue du Debarcadere in the 17th, 01.45.72.22.55, lunch menu 20, dinner 45, 65 and 80 € serving light herbs and condiments at lunch and otherwise at dinner.

Tuesday in l’Express, Pierrick Jégu picked as his resto under 30 € Barbezingue, coordinates given before, mentioning the pumpkin soup, sauteed foie gras and chocolate quenelle.

Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin in Figaroscope rated as 2/4 hearts, Mets Gusto, coordinates given before, where the ex-Ducasse chef prepares Mediterranean small plates, each under 10 € (thus total 30-40) for chicken-like porchetta, potatoes Roseval and a pigs feet cake. Then he awarded one heart only to the Bistrot d’a Cote, 18, rue Lalande in the 14th, 01.43.20.00.29, closed Sundays, which has wines under 20 €, soaked eggs, over-generous and tasteless choucroute garnie and prunes in wine; Le Numero 7, 81, ave Bosquet in the 7th, 01.47.53.01.52, open 7/7, formaulas at 22 and 27, a la carte 35-40 € for beef tartare (not bad), entrecote (passionless) and pineapple (boring); Le Mezieres, 16, rue de Mezieres in the 6th, 01.45.48.44.23, closed Sundays, costing 20-25 € for veggie tart, sautéed veal and plum clafoutis. A broken heart went to the Korean Jantchi in the 1st.

Figaroscope’s Dossier this week concerned questioning if you are a bobovore, that is, a dining Bobo, listing the following bobo areas and their restos:

Marais Temple

Glou

Breizh Café

Rose Bakery II

Café des Musees

Martyrs Trudaine

Rose Bakery

Cul de Poule

Hotel Amour

La Pizzetta

La Salumeria

Cesar

Montmartre Abbesses Pigalle

Bar des Roses

Café Burq

Cheribibi

La Famille

Floors

Miroir

Mon Oncle

Valmy St Martin

Prune

Sesame

Soya

La Cantine de Quentin

Hotel du Nord

Cambodge

Mme Shawn

In his “Hache Menu,” Francois Simon wrote glowingly about La Gazzetta which he advises one to go to fast.

Wednesday, as well, Richard Hesse in Paris Update reviewed Goumard, coordinates given before, which he says is a “safe bet” for a first date if you have the wherewithal. However he uses phrases like “nothing….soaring” and “nothing to write home about.”

Thursday in Le Point, Gilles Pudlowski said le Bristol + Joy are in good shape and he’s following Le Bistrot 121 + La Strasbourgeoise.

Saturday in his “Croque Notes” in Le Figaro and blog, Francois Simon wrote about Le Villaret, where the wine is nowhere near the price of a three-star's 1989 Haut Brion at 6,500 €. On the same page was an article by him on the 2009 Michelin Red, due out March 2nd, commenting on a new “essay” by Sebastien Demorand and Benedict Beauge entitled “Les cuisines de la critique gastronomique” as well as one “interviewing” them.

Saturday in the IHT, Maia de la Baume in Globespotters recommended as “high-end cuisine, low-end prices" Gerard Vie.

Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, John Talbott wrote an essay entitled “French, Fusion, Fluenced, Foreign.”

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

Edited by John Talbott to correct reporting of Villaret's wine prices.

Edited March 28, 2009 by John Talbott (log)

[John Talbott]

The Week of February 16th, 2009

Tuesday in Le Fooding, Sebastien Demorand reviewed the pizza/etc Alice Pizza, in the 18th.

Tuesday as well, in ANP, Philippe Toinard as well gave 3/5 to Alice Pizza while Jerome Berger gave 3/5 dots to Barbezingue coordinates given before, serving Eric Ospital’s ham, lobster soup, veal breast and chocolate quenelles in a table d’hote type setting.

Tuesday in l’Express, Francois Regis Gaudry picked as his resto of the week, the refreshed La Maree, coordinates in the guidebooks, where the menus are 29 and 35 € and a la carte is about 50 € for shellfish stew, pollack and a dessert “minestrone”; Pierrick Jégu picked as his resto of under 30 € Le Clou de Fourchette, coordinates given before, serving tuina, rilettes, lamb shoulder and mascarpone. Also Yves Nespoulous reviewed as under 30 E, the Berliner in Lille.

Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin in Figaroscope rated five (thus all) places as 1/5: MBC, coordinates given before, which has Gilles Choukroun’s foie gras crème brulee, rumsteak/bulots and tapioca; Alice Pizza, coordinates also given before, costing between 20 and 60 €; the Lebanese Bistrot Beyrouth in the 11th; Le Darling’s, 43, rue Beaubourg in the 3rd, 01.40.29.40.47, closed Saturday, with a well-priced lunch formula at 18, a menu whose price is discussable at 32 € for over-cooked egg and over-cooked magret and too dry fruit tart; and the Japanese Jin Sushi in the 4th.

Figaroscope’s Dossier this week by Colette Monsat listed the best galettes completes in Paris. In the text it mentions the Breizh Café, Yves Camdeborde/Creperie du Comptoir + Le Jardin des Cynes/Hotel Price des Galles but in the ratings ranks as the first six:

Breizh Café

Ty Breizh

Creperie des Canettes

Creperie Bretonne Fleurie de l’Epouse du Marin

Creperie Suzette

Creperie du Comptoir.

In addition, in his “Hache Menu,” Francois Simon reviewed one of these, the Creperie Josselin, where it cost 9.10 € for a double and the maximum wait is 20 minutes. Go? “Je vous en prie, après vous… “

Wednesday, as well, Richard Hesse in Paris Update wrote about two rip-off meals at Le Petit Marché, in Paris where there was deafening music, an indifferent staff and food and wine already opened and plunked down, and La Cigale in Nantes.

Thursday in Le Point, Gilles Pudlowski said Chen + Brasserie Flo are in good shape and he’s following Le Boudoir + Michi.

Friday, Jean Claude Ribaut wrote about Bobo and bio fast food at everything from McDo’s + Flunch to Cojean, Rose Bakery, Naked, Lina's, Giraudet, + Exki, the latter a Belgian chain on the boulevard du Montparnasse, 14e, avenue de France, 13e, and boulevard des Italiens, 2e.

Saturday in his “Croque Notes” in Le Figaro and blog, Francois Simon wrote about a meal at La Ruelle, in Angouleme. Alexandra Michot also had an article about the multiplication of food festivals worldwide.

Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp wrote two reviews and a book notice entitled “Do You Glou? Zen Garden & Pudlo Bistro” and John Talbott wrote an essay entitled “Strategies for Survival.”

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of February 23rd, 2009

Tuesday in Le Fooding, Jim Bowie reviewed Le 126, in Lyon.

Tuesday as well, in ANP, Philippe Toinard gave 2/5 to La Cocotte du Saint-Jo, 147, ave Parmentier in the 10th, 01.42.40.15.57, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, with formulas from 16-24 € of tasteless and overcooked food {why did he give it a 2?}; while Jerome Berger gave 3/5 dots to the Thai Khaosan Rd in the 9th. In the side-bar they mention the reopening of D’Chez Eux in the 8th with its XXL portions of traditional French food, costing 60 € a la carte (lunch formulas are 37 and 43 €.)

Tuesday in l’Express, Pierrick Jégu picked as his resto for under 30 € the new Bistrot d’a Cote, coordinates given before, where he found the food better, the wine affordable and the service perfect, {as opposed to prior reviewers.}

Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin in Figaroscope rated three places as 2/5: Le Barbezingue, coordinates given before, which is the Os offshoot, having both a Symples-like buffet and an Os-like resto on another floor, he had garlic chicken in beef bouillon, oysters and pig’s feet and veal breast; Le Petit Champerret, ditto, with a reasonable formula at lunch (22) but inflated a la carte at dinner (40-50 €), serving mimosa leeks, boar or ox tail with mashed potatoes and French toast or tiramisu; and the Italian Caffé dei Cioppi in the 11th. One heart each went to: the Thai Thaim, in the 1st and Café Francoeur, 129, rue Caulincourt in the 18th, 01.53.28.00.15, open 7/7, a Disneyland type place halfway between Peter Pan and Space Mountain, serving stuff like a croque-monsieur for a good 20 Euros.

Figaroscope’s Dossier this week by Colette Monsat et al, discussed good ideas during the economic crisis. Suggestions include:

Truffles at cost at Aux Lyonnais, Rech, Benoit + Spoon,

New lowered “menus” at Goumard, Market + La Maree, 50 (with wine), 34 and 35 € respectively,

A “menu” priced (34-40 €) according to the CAC (eg French Dow Jones/S&P) at Mori’s Venice Bar,

One dish (25 €) at l’Alcazar,

A frequent eater card at Les Ombres, costing one 45 € including water, wine and coffee versus 38 at lunch and 80-100 € at dinner,

1 Euro sandwiches at Goutu,

Without forgetting: Helene Darroze, Maison Blanche, Cantouche Panama + Le Café du Commerce for respectively, meals at 25, 69, 10.50 and 25.50 €,

Or the pioneers: Senderens, Drouant, Violin d’Ingres + Les Petites Sorciers where one can eat at 120, 43-80, 75 and 25-60 € respectively.

In addition, in his “Hache Menu,” in today's Scope, F. Simon says that while the 9.90 € menu at L'Auberge, 124, boulevard du Montparnasse, in the 14th, 01 56 54 01 55, appears to be the deal of the century, the food is banal and more like that at a “train station.”

Wednesday, as well, Richard Hesse in Paris Update wrote a most glowing report on Gilles Choukroun’s new resto MBC {that sounds a lot like what he served at both the Café Very + MiniPalais.}

Wednesday, Gilles Pudlowski in this week's Le Point wrote that Chez Vong + Caméléon were in good form and he's going to follow the Romantica caffè + L'Européen, the brasserie facing the Gare de Lyon, at 21 bis, blvd Diderot in the 12th, 01.43.43.99.70 which has menus at 26, 32 E. a la carte : 50 E and has been revived by the Joulie group.

Friday/Saturday, Jean Claude Ribaut wrote about the revolution at the Michelin, where there have been three editorial directors in the last 8 years, versus three in the prior 56 years. He had another article about how French cuisine was still the living reference point for chefs from Japan to Sweden.

In Le Figaro Saturday in a separate article, called the “B side of gastronomy,” (that great scientific resource, Wikipedia says that “the B-side, or flipside, is a secondary song that often does not appear on a band’s LP,”) Francois Simon provides a number of examples of French restaurants, the A ones better known, but the B ones just as good. The following are his picks (the first being the A, the second B):

Alain Ducasse - l’Auberge Basque

Maxim’s - Le Train Bleu

Helene Darroze - Casa Olympe

Thierry Marx - Ze Kitchen Galerie

L’Arpege - La Chassagnette

Bocuse - La Mere Brazier

Guilo Guilo - Miyabi a Sens.

He then, in his “Croque Notes” and blog, wrote about Maxim’s which he says is dying while remaining in the last century. He quotes the lyrics of the famous Otis Reading song being played by a clarinetist: “Sitting on the dock of the bay/Watching the tide roll away(…)Wasting my time” and suggests it’s time for the Pierre Cardin management to step down/aside.

In this month’s Where, Alexander Lobrano favorably recommends Le Café Lumiere in the Hotel Scribe {haven’t we been down this road before?} as well as golden oldies 16 Haussmann + Le Café du Commerce.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of March 2nd, 2009

Tuesday in Le Fooding, Sebastien Demorand reviewed the Korean Manna, in the 15th.

Tuesday as well, in ANP, Philippe Toinard as well gave 3/5 to Le Petit Ampere, 3, rue Ampere (thus next to Philippe Detourbe’s older brother house) in the 17th, 01.42.27.89.92 which has an 18 € formula and a la carte is 20-30 €, for food such as crostini, merlu and crumble; while Jerome Berger gave 3/5 dots to the Spanish Xato in the 3rd.

Tuesday in l’Express, Francois Regis Gaudry picked as his resto of the week, the Philippe Starked Mama Shelter, coordinates given in the 20th and as his one under 30 E La Bastide de Cabriès in the Bouches du Rhone; and Pierrick Jégu picked as his resto for under 30 € - Xato, the Spanish place in the 3rd.

Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin in Figaroscope gave 2/5 to just one place, the strangely named (for its two owners/principals) Le Marcab, 225 rue de Vaugirard in the 6th, 01.43.06.51.66, open 7/7 with lunch menus at 19 and 24, dinner at 32 and a la carte 40 € with a carpaccio od scallops with wasabi, turbot, chocolate “soup” with bananas; and 1/5 to two places: the Relais de Paris, 13, rue d’Odessa in the 14th, 01.43.21.15.70, open 7/7, serving the entrecote “formula” (salad with nuts, beef frites with a secret “sauce,” and the Indian Taj Mahal in the 4th. Two places merited a busted heart: the Carmine Café in the 7th and Villa Pereire in the 17th.

Figaroscope’s Dossier this week by Colette Monsat et al listed the cantines frequented by women. They include:

Primo Piano

Michi

Les Terrines de Gerard Vie

Racines

Bar Laduree

Chez Charlotte

Sur un arbre perche

Chocolaterie Jacques Genin

ZenZoo

Covo & Co.

In addition, in his “Hache Menu,” Francois Simon reviewed one of these, the “dull, listless” Le Boudoir, where it cost 237.00 € for two (well they had a bottle of 130 € Chateau Talbot) with underheated Jerusalem artichoke soup, Iberique pork not up to its reputation and two disappointing desserts. Go? It’s mediocre.

Wednesday, as well, Richard Hesse in Paris Update wrote about a place he thinks is star-bound - Chamarré Montmartre, despite its “punching below its weight.”

Thursday in Le Point, Gilles Pudlowski said Stella is in good shape and he’s following Le cotte rôti + Glou.

Friday, Jean Claude Ribaut wrote about Heston Blumenthal’s recent doings as well as earlier in the week about the Michelin and Eric Frechon’s third star.

Saturday in his “Croque Notes” in Le Figaro and partly on his blog, Francois Simon wrote about two meals, one lacking soul at Thoumieux, now a Costes operation, and the other where he couldn’t stop – at La Cremerie.

Saturday/Sunday in the weekend FT, Nicholas Lander wrote an article on Auguste and his and others use of Jaques Genin’s chocolates.

Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp wrote about “Meeting the chef at Meeting” and John Talbott wrote an essay entitled “Why aren’t critics criticizing?”

Sunday, in the JDD Astrid T’Serclaes wrote up Glou and Aurelie Chaigneau Le Miroir + La Fidelite.

Alexander Lobrano, in WHERE, wrote up the Café Moderne + Spoon on its 10th anniversary. In addition, he had an article in the NYT T section, comparing good value restos in Paris with those in New York and gave coordinates for Afaria, Le Beurre Noisette, Chez Michel, Christophe, L’Epigramme, Itineraires, La Table d’Eugène + Au Vieux Chêne as well as a photo of L’Ourcine.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of March 9th, 2009

Tuesday in Le Fooding, Sebastien Demorand reviewed La Bouche, pl Maurice-Chevalier, 1 rue d’Eupatoria in the 20th, (right near Le Baratin), 09 53 56 24 14, closed Mondays. is open from 10 AM - 7 PM and 8-10:30 PM with formulas at 12 (lunch) and 23-29 and glasses of wine starting at 3 € where one has wine and coffee and munchies (gazpacho) like at a café at lunch, but is more like a bistro at night with foie gras maki, udon and rascasse.

Tuesday as well, in ANP, Philippe Toinard wrote a page on Jacques Genin – Chocolaterie-Salon de the {coincidence that Nicholas Lander wrote it up last week in the weekend FT?}

Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin in Figaroscope gave 2/5 hearts to two restos: the good place to go during this recession Le Petit Ampere, coordinates already given, which serves up bobo food such as sardines, a paleron of beef and chocolate mouse on a 18 € formula and 25 € menu; and l’Invitation, 82, rue Boileau in the 16th, 01.46.47.87.19, closed weekends, serving basque ham, beef tartare and Alleosse cheeses for between 30-60 € with lunch formulas at 35 and 42 €. Then he gave 1/5 hearts to the other three, the now Colliot-less l’Orenoc in the Meridien Etoile which is not only expensive but just corporate/business/airport food; the California/sushi/esque Rollifornia Gril, 47, blvd Henri IV in the 4th, 01.42.74.88.28 open 7/7 serving ravioli soup, diced beef and tiramisu for less than 20 €; and Mon Resto in Mon Hotel, 1, rue d’Argentine in the 16th, 01.45.02.76.76, open 7/7, serving smoked salmon, cheeseburgers and St Marcellin for between 35-50 €.

Figaroscope’s Dossier this week by Colette Monsat et al listed the quick bite/drink places around cultural landmarks:

Olympia, Opéra Garnier, Théâtre Edouard VII ...

Yo

Le Duke’s Bar

Paparazzi Ristorante

Comédie Française, Louvre, Palais-Royal

Scoop

Angelina

Bar Defender

Alfred

Le Fumoir

Beaubourg, Châtelet, Clubs de jazz ...

Kong

Le Garde Robe

Georges

Chez Vong

Théâtres des Grands Boulevards

Jeannette

Plomb du Cantal

Arthur

Opéra Bastille, Musée Picasso ...

Le Bar a Soupes

Autour du Saumon

La Plancha

Café du Passage

Théâtre Marigny, cinémas des Champs-Elysées...

La Butik

Jabugo Ibericvo & Co

15cent15

Relais Plaza

Gaïté Montparnasse, Fondation Cartier ...

La Cabanee a Huitres

Exki

Backstage Café

La Cerisaie

L’Opportun

Palais de Tokyo, Guimet, Quai Branly ...

Carette

Tokyo Eat

Victor

Le Coq

Nocturnes Parisiens aka places with a “late” second service

l’Ami Jean

La Regalade

Le Baratin

Atelier Maitre-Albert

Alcazar.

In his “Hache Menu,” Francois Simon reviewed one such, of these, Quai-Quai, where it cost 121 € for two (with a good bottle of Beaujolais) but which had a clientele that was drunk, loud, Texan/American; despite that he says Go!

Wednesday, as well, Richard Hesse in Paris Update reviewed very positively La Maree, coordinates given before.

Thursday in Le Point, Gilles Pudlowski said Aida + Garnier were in good shape and he’s following Café mode 24, rue François-Ier in the 8th, 01.47.20.98.18 which costs about 35 E a la carte and the Chinese Le Lys d'or in the 12th.

Thursday in , Francois Regis Gaudry picked as his resto of the week, the Petit Champarret, coordinates given before, where he commented on the coppa, rabbit, a fricassée of mushrooms, and tiramisu.

Friday, Jean Claude Ribaut wrote about now being the time to eat out; it’s on the Economy topic.

Saturday in his “Croque Notes” in Le Figaro, Francois Simon wrote about two places offering good food at good prices, the Chinese Shan Gout, in the 12th and La Bouche, coordinates above. On the rest of the page, he and Alexandra Michot do a sort of “how to” best dine at the Palace hotel restaurants, giving their highs and good ideas.

Saturday/Sunday in the weekend FT, Jancis Robinson had an article on the new laws on alcohol, driving and abstinence.

Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp wrote about Les Tontons 2, the second such, in the 15th , a “neo-bistro….starring tartares” and John Talbott wrote an essay entitled “Failure and Success – a History Example Translated to Food?”

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of March 16th, 2009

Tuesday in Le Fooding, Sebastien Demorand wrote up Rodolphe Paquin’s new annex, the Café Cartouche, in the ex-Bihan Café space, 4, rue de Bercy in the 12th, 01 40 19 09 95, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, is managed by Paquin’s former front-man Benoit and serves great old-school charcuterie (pate and sausage) with beans and a tarte sablée au chocolat at reasonable prices.

Tuesday as well, in ANP, Jerome Berger gave 3/5 to the Bistrot d’a cote, coordinates given before, commenting on its XXL portions and wine; and Philippe Toinard gave 3/5 dots to the Petit Curieux, 16, rue des Filles du Calvaire in the 3rd, 01.42.74.65.79, closed weekends, with lunch menus at 15 and 19 and dinner ones for 20 and 25 € and well chosen wines, serving a cream of sardines amuse-bouche, filets of sardines, porcelet with maple syrup, and tiramisu with foie gras.

Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin in Figaroscope gave his rare rating of 3/5 hearts to two restos: the Costes at their best 4, Place Saint-Germain-des-Pres, coordinates given in the name, in the 6th, 01.53.63.60.60, open 7/7, costing 40-70 € for (in addition to “snacking” food), Thai-style shrimp soup, Mandarin duck and sea bass as well as the Japanese cantine Momoka (le retour), 5, rue Jean Baptiste Pigalle in the 9th, 01.40.16.19.09, closed Sundays and Mondays. He also gave 2/5 hearts to the Italian Samesa, 13, rue Brey in the 17th and 1/5 heart each to the Thai A La Table de Nouk in the 2nd and 93 Montmartre,coordinates in the name, in the 2nd, 01.40.28.02.23, closed Sundays, serving for 40-50 € mozzarella, chicken and Saint Marcelin.

Figaroscope’s Dossier this week by Colette Monsat et al listed the Bio markets of Paris:

The Marche Raspail

The Marche des Batignolles

The Marche Brancusi and outside Paris

St Clou, Boulogne-Billancourt, Joinville lr pont, Sceaux and Malmaison.

In his “Hache Menu,” Francois Simon reviewed Meating, where it cost 159 € for two (with a 64 € St Loup) and two Nangus menus with cheese and a good apple tart. Go? Yes, if you live there.

Wednesday, as well, Richard Hesse in Paris Update reviewed very positively Le Grand Pan, coordinates given before, where except for a lackadaisical waitress, he had a fine meal.

Thursday, Pierrick Jégu wrote up as his restaurant for under 30 euros, the Bistrot F 4 aka Fabrique 4 in the 17th and Jacques Brunel wrote up the Italian Primo Piano on the first floor of Mon Marche.

Thursday in Le Point, Gilles Pudlowski said Aida + Garnier were in good shape and he’s following Café mode 24, rue François-Ier in the 8th, 01.47.20.98.18 which costs about 35 E a la carte and the Chinese Le Lys d'or in the 12th.

Thursday, in Le Point, Gilles Pudlowski said that Dalloyau + Goupil are in good shape and he'll follow La Pulcinella + Arthur.

Friday, Jean Claude Ribaut wrote about violet Pontoise cauliflower, used by chefs such as Yannick Alleno at Le Meurice, coming into the markets as well as both healthy and weight-losing diets.

Saturday in his “Croque Notes” in Le Figaro, Francois Simon wrote about two new places with out of the ordinary décor: Costes + La Fidelite, in the 6th and 10th respectively as well as a long piece on Gordon Ramsay’s fading empire (closing his Prague and Hollywood places) amidst fine personal earnings (7 million ₤; 250 € meals at the Trianon Palace) and contradictory life-style (voted “celebrity father of the year” while carrying on a 7-year affair). He (FS) also wrote an accompanying piece on other Brit outposts here:

Rose Bakery

Bar Hemingway

Le Timbre

Willi’s

Cupcake & Co +

Mister Brian in Monte Carlo. NB The Bar Hemingway is included because of its British bartender not Hemingway’s origin.

Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp wrote about Eating Sarah, 6 New York & Samesa Buzz , and John Talbott wrote an essay entitled “FAQ: Why do you spend so much time in Paris?”

Sunday, Astrid T’Serclaes in JDD wrote a review of l’Assiette and gave Yannick Alleno’s three secret addresses that included the Café Moderne + Astier.

In this month’s T&L, Luke Barr, in article on Aix-en-Provence, mentions Chez Thome, Les Deux Garcons + l’Hostellerie de l’Abbaye de la Celle.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of March 23rd, 2009

Tuesday in Le Fooding, Sebastien Demorand reviewed a pizzeria Pizza 104 access from 104, rue d'Aubervilliers, in the 19th, open every day.

Tuesday as well, in ANP, Philippe Toinard gave 2/5 dots to the Cartouche Café, coordinates given before, and commented on the oeuf mayo, rillettes, lamb terrine, grilled sausage, faux-filet and chocolate sable; meanwhile, Jerome Berger gave 4/5 to the 14 year old l’Epi Dupin, coordinates well known, still serving 100% bistronomique food for formulas 19 and 25 at lunch and 34 €.

Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin in Figaroscope gave another of his rare ratings of 3/4 hearts to the Chinese Shan Gout, in the 12th and two two-hearts to the son of the Repaire de Cartouche the Café Cartouche, in the St Emilion Cour, running one 20 € for lunch (30-35 for dinner) for food such as a lamb terrine with figs, sausage with beans, and nougat ice and l’Antichambre, 4, rue de Port Mahon in the 2nd, 01.42.66.59.52, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, with a “diplomatic” lunch menu at 22 (but carte of 40 €), serving celery rabe soup, eggplant stuffed with culatello (Parma ham) and crepes with three chocolates. In addition, he rated two places as 1/4 hearts: Le P’tit Railleur, 3, rue Beaurepaire in the 10th, 01.42.45.11.70, open 7/7, with 20 and 24 € formulas of oeuf cocotte (too cooked), duck filet and tiramisu as well as Le Petit Curieux, coordinates given last week, with lunch menus of 15 and 19 (dinner 20 and 25 €) for Royan raviolis, andouillette parmentier and jarreton with honey.

In Figaroscope’s Dossier this week by Colette Monsat listed the best places to buy flan as:

l’Autre Boulange

Poilane

Gosselin

Carette

Dalloyau being the top five.

In his “Hache Menu,” Francois Simon reviewed Bread & Roses, where it cost 77.90 € for banal food except for the scones and cheesecake.

Wednesday, as well, Richard Hesse in Paris Update reviewed Miroir, coordinates given before, where he had “a very satisfying dining experience in the Camdeborde, Régalade tradition.”

Thursday, Pierrick Jégu wrote up as his restaurant in Paris for under 30 euros, the Cartouche Cafe, coordinates already given, Yves Nespoulous wrote up the Le Bistrot du Pollet in Dieppe and François-Régis Gaudry wrote up Isse in the 1st as his Resto of the week

Thursday in Le Point, Gilles Pudlowski said Aida + Garnier were in good shape and he’s following Café mode 24, rue François-Ier in the 8th, 01.47.20.98.18 which costs about 35 E a la carte and the Chinese Le Lys d'or in the 12th.

Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp wrote about Oth Sombath and the new Costes, La Societe and John Talbott wrote an essay entitled “The burden of Food Criticism.”

Sunday, Astrid T’Serclaes in JDD wrote a review of Derriere and Aurelie Chaigneau reviewed MBC + Alice Pizza, all of whose coordinates are given above.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of March 30th, 2009

Tuesday in Le Fooding, Sebastien Demorand reviewed the Asiatic-influenced Yam'tcha, 4, rue Sauval in the 1st, 01 40 26 08 07, closed Mondays and Tuesdays, where he comments on the wok-cooked or vapored Korean mushrooms, omble, bok choy, oolong tea and wines; and soon dim sum. No a la carte; lunch menu is 30 €, dinner 45-65 €.

Tuesday as well, in ANP gave two “world food” places 3/5 - Philippe Toinard reviewed the Italianate Samesa in the 17th and Jerome Berger the “special Chinese” Shan Gout in the 12th .

Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin in Figaroscope gave another of his rare ratings of 3/4 hearts to the afore-mentioned Yam’tcha, coordinates above, where he mentions the shrimp raviolis, duck and eggplant and biscuit with olive oil; and two hearts to three places: the Italian R-ital, in the 17th; the wine bistro Le Cru Rollin, 156 ave Ledru-Rollin in the 11th, 01.43.73.72.20, closed Sundays, with a light lunch menu at 14, a la carte 20-40 € for foie gras, tete de veau and fondant with chestnuts; and the 1980ish Soho Manhattanesque Balthazar et Cie, 35, rue Faidherbe in the 11th, 01.43.71.65.30, closed Sunday dinner and Mondays, which is in the old Purple space and with a formula at 14 and carte 25-35 € serves shrimp and banana chips, tartare and a Malabar cappuccino. The last place reviewed got a busted heart: the annex of the Maison de la Truffe called Truffes Folies, 37, rue Malar in the 7th, 01.44.18.05.41, closed Sundays where there’s the “pretext” of a 18 € menu at lunch but costs closer to 50 € for eggs with truffles and overcooked penne Perigord with four small strips of foie gras.

In Figaroscope’s Dossier this week by Colette Monsat et al listed the Poissons d’avril it being April 1st as:

Dover Sole

L’Ecailler du Bistrot

Pollack

La Mercerie Mullot

L’Ecaille de la Fontaine

35º Ouest

Small sole

Le 21

Turbot

Les Fables de la Fontaine

Daurade

Uitr

Bass

La Maree Denfert

Changes at

Antoine

Goumard

La Maree.

In his “Hache Menu,” Francois Simon reviewed the new place at the top: Enpente, 69, rue de la Montagne-Sainte-Geneviève in the 5th, 01.57.08. 55.19, closed weekends, run by twins, where he paid 115 € for two for a Adria-like soup of foie gras powder that enlarged, rascasse and a dessert much like the liquid disinfectants that rub dry in a few seconds leaving just the scent. He says Go!

Wednesday, Francois-Regis Gaudry in l’Express made Le Comptoir des Tontons in Beaune his restaurant of the week and the 27th had a review of the Rose Bakery-like La Cantine de Merci, 111, bd Beaumarchais, in the 3rd, 01-42-77-01-90, costing less than 15 €.

Thursday/Friday in Le Monde Jean Claude Ribaut wrote about Jacques Genin and chocolate as well as asparagus and seasonal products.

Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp wrote about the Relais Plaza and Zebra Square and John Talbott wrote an essay entitled “Food Criticism and your favorite chef.”

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of April 6th, 2009

Tuesday in Le Fooding, Alexandre Cammas wrote a piece about creative risk-taking chefs (Camdeborde, Aizpitarte, Costes, Bordarier, Bocuse, Jego, Rabanel, Bras, Adria, Ledeuil, Herraiz, Rose, Ducasse, Cohen, Mazouz…), that recommended two new places: Passage 53, 53 Passage des Panoramas in the 2nd, 01 42 33 04 35, closed Sundays, a la carte 38-44 €, serving half-terroir, half-Japanesy food such as a tartare of veal with oysters, sole with an oyster emulsion, beef tartare and a green tea crème brulee and La Cantine Merci, 111 Bvd Beaumarchais in the 3rd, 01 42 77 78 92, open for lunch except Sundays, a “friendly grocery” serving “snacks” such as lentil salad, fennel carpaccio with crispy zucchini, risotto and crumble for about 22 €.

Tuesday as well, ANP’s Jerome Berger reviewed the Chinese-French Yam’tcha, coordinates already given.

Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin in Figaroscope gave 3/4 hearts to the Japanese Issé in the first but 2/4 hearts and the photo to the above-mentioned Passage 53 which does have a 19 € lunch formula despite what was recounted above and serves a bavette and fries and strawberry pannacotta and 2/4 as well to the Italian Il Prezzemolo in the 3rd. One 1/4 hearts each though went to the aforementioned Cantine Merci serving chicken breast and a buffet of desserts and the Mexican-ate Zicatela in the 4th.

In Figaroscope’s Dossier this week by Colette Monsat et al listed the Regional Italian places in Paris:

Sicily

Casa Vigata

Campagna

Cucina Napoletana

Bartolo

Venice

Mori Venice Bar

Sardinia

Sardegna a tavola

Tuscany

Casa Bini

Procopio Angelo

Zoom regions

La Rucola

Plus the most: Bobo Al Taglio, Champs-Elysees Casa Luca, Riviera Mets Gusto, Business Class Barocco, Left bank Primo piano, Wine Divinamente Italiano, Classic R-tal, Re-classic Samesa, disconcerting Alice Pizza, and l’Antichambre + Le Sorza

In his “Hache Menu,” Francois Simon reviewed one too: the Caffe dei Cioppi, in 11th where he says to go.

Wednesday as well, Richard Hesse in Paris Update reviewed the Spanish Fogon in the 6th.

Thursday/Friday in Le Monde Jean Claude Ribaut wrote about chocolate Easter eggs (from Jean-Paul Hévin, Michel Cluizel and Christophe Michalak) and lamb (he recommends looking for Elovel, which supplies the great restos; and “label Rouge” from Gironde and Sisteron as well as Allaiton de l'Aveyron (Jacques et Bernard Greffeuille, Le Bayle, 12390 Rignac) but also restaurants that have fumoirs: Goumard-Prunier, Tante Marguerite, L'Atelier Berger, Boudoir + Le bistrot de Breteuil.

Friday, in L’Express, Jégu Pierrick, wrote up the Caffé dei Cioppi in the 11th as his resto under 30 € and Andréa Petrini, reviewed as hers Le 126 in Lyon. Finally, François-Régis Gaudry said Yam'Tcha was his resto of the week.

Saturday, Alexandra Michot published a two-page spread in Figaro entitled “Choco City” about all the great chocolate places from M. Chocolat to Arnaud Larher.

Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp wrote about the Maceo + Auguste and John Talbott wrote an essay entitled “Eating with Kids: II.”

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of April 13th, 2009

Tuesday in Le Fooding, Anna Polonsky reviewed Frenchie, 5, rue du Nil in the 2nd, 01 40 39 96 19, closed Sundays, Mondays and Tuesday lunch, chef’d by an ex-Jamie Oliver, ex-New York guy, serving a lunch menu at 19 € for parsley/lentil puree, salmon with fennel and rhubarb/raspberry pannacotta and 24 € wines. There’s also a lunch formula at 16€ and dinner menus for 27 or 33 €.

Tuesday as well, ANP ‘s Philippe Toinard and Jerome Berger wrote about “cantines” in the 1st-10th arrondissements that are not pricey. They included:

Le Bam

Passage 53

Le care des Vosges

Le Gaigne

Le Reminet first mention of a new globe-trotting team

Le Timbre

Firmin le Barbier

L’Abordage

Les Pates Vivantes

Ploum.

In addition on the website Philippe Toinard wrote up restaurants under 20 €, listing:

Le Petit Curieux

La Canaille

Lilane

L’Epi Dupin

Le Bar A Manger

Le Cafe Constant

Urbane

Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin in Figaroscope gave 2/4 hearts and the photo to Obé, at the Crillon, 4 Boissy d’Anglas in the 8th, 01.44.71.15.15, which despite the name (eg aka Obelisque) serves gastronomic French food (such as oeuf cocotte with shrimp, crab with spices, veal sweetbreads and raspberry pastry) for 80-120 € and is open 7/7; and two hearts each to the previously mentioned Bistro Volnay coordinates on Rue Volney [sic] given before, and l’Atelier Mazarine, 43, rue Mazarine in the 6th, 01.43.54.12.43, open 7/7, costing a la carte 40 € (lunch formula at 18 € and brunch on weekends), serving octopussalad, duck breast and chocolate dome dessert. One heart each went to La Garconniere, 98 rue Michel-Ange in the 16th, 01.46.51.27.50, open 7/7, half-brasserie/half-bistrot serving for 30-40 oeufs mayo, entrecote and old boy compte as well as Le Relais de la Bucherie, 1 rue de la Bucherie in the 5th, 01.43.29.73.57, open 7/7, running one 25-40 € for snout vinegarette, chicken fricassee and apple tarte.

In Figaroscope’s Dossier this week by Colette Monsat et al discussed Rice dishes in Paris:

Arroz

Fogon

Rice pudding

Atelier Maitre Albert

Le Comptoir du Relais

La Regalade

Café Constant

Crusty rice

Lao Lane Xang II

Biryani

Ratn

Risotto

l’Osteria

Ta Peir

La Mousson

Coconut rice with mango

Suan Thai

Tiep bou dienn

Waly Fay

Donburi

Zen

Bibimbap

Manna

Cantonese rice

Imperial Choisy

Rice wine

Worshop Isse

Youlin

In his “Hache Menu,” Francois Simon reviewed a Korean rice place Sobane, in the 9th where he hedges whether to go.

Wednesday as well, Richard Hesse in Paris Update reviewed Quedubon and will not be going back.

Thursday/Friday in Le Monde Jean Claude Ribaut wrote about asparagus.

Thursday, in L’Express, Jégu Pierrick, wrote up the Nominoë, 13 rue Castex in the 4th, 01.42.72.95.35, closed Sundays as his resto under 30 € and Yves Nespoulous, reviewed as his La Comédie des vins in Nantes. Finally, François-Régis Gaudry said La Societe was his resto of the week.

Saturday, Francois Simon reviewed L’Aubergade in Dury, near Amiens, in his “Croque Notes.”

Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp wrote about the Citrus Etoile and Café du Commerce and John Talbott wrote an essay entitled “When do you walk out?”

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of April 20th, 2009

Tuesday in Le Fooding, Jim Bowie reviewed the Argentinian Santa Carne in the 4th.

Tuesday as well, ANP ‘s Philippe Toinard gave 4/5 to Bistro Volnay, 8, rue Volney, in the 2nd, 01 42 61 06 65, which has menus at 24, 32 et 38 € and a “bar formula” at 24 € for a main en cocotte, wine and coffee, closed weekends, run by a 33 yo chef exChez Michel, who doesn’t play at “food name dropping” (eg Bordier, Desnoyer & Poujauran) but serves other good product to make cold l'andouille, a pâté de campagne, veal jarret with foie gras, veal kidneys and a nougat crème brûlée or little pot of chocolate.

Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin in Figaroscope gave 2/4 hearts to three places: Frenchie, coordinates given before, where he commented on the smoked trout, swordfish and lamb; the Pizzetta offshoot Pizzetta Piu Grande in the 18th; and the Breton Nominoë, coordinates given last week, which doesn’t have galettes but a dozen small plates of things such as palourdes, smoked andouille and far with caramel butter for around 20 €. He gave one heart, the lead and photo though to 58 Tour Eiffel, coordinates given before and mentioned their asparagus, macaroni with truffles, grilled salmon and apricot pastry; but one heart to the New York Jewish Schwartz’s Deli in the 4th.

In Figaroscope’s Dossier this week by Colette Monsat et al wrote up Confidential restaurants (that is, those they knew but that are not written up in the guidebooks) in Paris:

Cheri Bibi

Café Salle Pleyel

Derriere

Le Café du 104

Foyer de laMadeleine

Foodlab

Salon du Pantheon

Studio 28

Atelier Guy Martin and then several unknown or hidden ones:

Dans le Noir

Conservatoire Serge-Rachmaninoff

Le Musee de la Vie romantique

Le Coin de Verre

The World Bar

Café Suedois

As usual, in the same spirit, in his “Hache Menu,” Francois Simon reviewed the bio epicerie Guen Mai, in the 6th which he says he’s passed 100 times, where he paid 17.50 for the daily special, sea trout and 5 € for a carrot-ginger juice; he say to go often.

Wednesday as well, Richard Hesse in Paris Update reviewed Passage 53 and gave his usually spot on summary of good (product, creativity) and bad (impossible staircase, pricey, corked wine) points.

Thursday, François-Régis Gaudry in l’Express reviewed as his resto of the week L'Invitation - 82, rue Boileau in the 16th, 01-46-47-87-19, menus at lunch 35 & 42, a la carte: 50 euros - run by an ex-Lavinia couple whose 15-seat place he compares to Jeu de quilles, Cul-de-poule + Mon oncle who serves jamon jabugo, sole, bread from Poujauran, cheese from Alléosse, lentiles with foie gras, a vegetable plate with mozzarella, pork, chicken and wines of the world ending with a crème brûlée. Also Jégu Pierrick, wrote up the Nominoe in the 4th as his resto under 30 €.

Saturday, Alexandra Michot and Francois Simon weighed in, in the Figaro, on El Bulli and Ferran Adria.

Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp wrote about the Relais de Montmartre & Bistro de Breteuil and John Talbott wrote an essay entitled “Boobs and Bistros.”

Sunday in the JDD, Astrid T’Serclaes wrote up Jadis and Aurelie Chaigneau wrote up the Chinese and Korean places Shan Gout & Manna.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

Edited April 28, 2009 by John Talbott (log)

[John Talbott]

The Week of April 27th, 2009

Tuesday, in Le Fooding, Anna Polonsky reviewed La Cafeteria de La Ménagerie de Verre, 12, rue Léchevin in the 11th, 01 43 38 33 44 which has few tables and is described as serving snacks and dinette food such as a soupe du jour (3€), a plat du jour (8€) like a roast chicken with olives, two tarts and two desserts du jour (5€ + 4€).

Tuesday as well, ANP ‘s Jerome Berger gave 3/5 dots to the “food-in-shop” La Table de Merci, coordinates given before and Philippe Toinard gave the same to the Grand Mericourt, 22, rue de la Folie Mericourt in the 11th, 01.43.38.94.04, closed Saturday and Monday lunch and Sundays, menus at lunch 17 and 20 and dinner 50 €, a la carte 45-55 € for a filet of lamb, moussaka with goat cheese and gambas tartare, all tasty and technically good but lacking soul.

Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin in Figaroscope gave 2/4 hearts to the bobo oasis in Bagnolet Cantina Mundo, 7, rue Marceau, 01.43.63.26.95, closed Saturday lunch, Sunday and Monday, lunch formulas at 15 and 18 €, dinner 24 and a la carte about 35 € for asparagus raw and cooked, zabaglione of citrus, tomato and pineapple gazpacho and shrimp tempura as well as roast lamb. One heart went to 3 places: the Argentinian Santa Carne in the 4th; Chez Yolaine, 9, rue d’Argenteuil in the 1st, 01.42.96.40.02, closed Saturday lunch and Sunday and Monday dinner, with a 13.50 lunch formula, a la carte about 25-35 € for goose rillettes, scallop risotto and pear crumble; and Chamade, 42 bis, ave de Suffren in the 15th, open 7/7, with a 16.80 formula and 30-50 € a la carte for onion grantinee, roast chicken and chestnut/pistachio ice. A busted heart was awarded to Oh la la, 4, rue Rampon in the 11th, 01.47.00.65.98, closed Sundays, lunch formulas 16 and 19 €, a la carte 40 €, for kangaroo carpaccio and two “cryptoplates” of some forgettable fusion things.

Usually, the ’Scope group or Emmanuel Rubin come out with their numerical tally at the mid and end of the year but today they did, as follows, 0-10 is the scale {really 4-8}:

Revelations

8 – yam’Tcha

Issé

7 – Glou

Passage 53

Shan Gout

Bistrots and Counters

6.5 – Barbezingue

Frenchie

Petit Champerret

L’Invitation

6 – Café Cartouche

Nominoë

Also: 5.5 Leclou de fourchette, Mon Oncle, Relais de Paris, 5 Le Bon Bec, Cru Rollin, 4 Bistrot d’a Cote.

Foreign

7 – Café dei Coppi

6.5 – La Piu Grande

6 – Thaim

5.5 – Alice Pizza

5 – Schwartz’s Deli

Also 6 Prezzemolo, 5.5 Samesa, A la Table de Nouk, Rollifornia Grill, 4 Jantchi.

Fashionable

7 – La Societé

6.5 – La Fidelité

6 – L’Obé

5.5 – Cristal Room Baccarat

5 – Thoumieux

Also 5.5 Mon Resto, 4 93 Montmartre.

Neo and Classical

7 – Mets Gusto

6.5 – l’Atelier Mazarine

5 – l’Orenoc

Also 5.5 Marcab, 4 Numero 7, Carmine Café, La Villa Pereire, MBC.

Cantines, Dinettes, Gadgets

7 – Chocolaterie Genin

6 –Cantine du Marci

5 – 58 Tour Eiffel

Also 5 Café Francoeur, 4.5 Truffes Folies.

And always, one has:

Bistronomic – Jadis

NeoBistro – Beaujolais d’Auteuil

Bobo – Cantine de Mama Shelter

Modern Thai – Oth Sombath

And as always, in his “Hache Menu,” Francois Simon reviewed the hottest place on the block Passage 53, in the 2nd, coordinates given before, and while he assigns no number to it he says “Go!”

Wednesday as well, Richard Hesse in Paris Update reviewed l’Ardoise Gourmande which he generally liked and called a safe haven near the station (the Gare de l’Est).

Wednesday, Mimi Sheraton wrote an article on places worth a plane trip to eat at and in Paris said l’Ami Louis + le Meurice.

Saturday, Alexandra Michot and Francois Simon in the Figaro detailed a half dozen places in the provinces in which to eat and stay and FS in his “Croque-notes” dwelt on one Hostellerie La Poularde in Montrand-les-Bains.

Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp wrote about the Bistro Volnay, Zo & Domic and John Talbott wrote an essay entitled “Yes Virginia, Santa Claus lives in Paris and Serves Great Food.”

Sunday in the JDD, Astrid T’Serclaes wrote up La Table d’Eugene.

In April’s WHERE Alexander Lobrano enthusiastically reviewed Jadis, coordinates given before.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of May 4th, 2009

Sunday April 26th in a special section in the NYT Travel Section, Steven Erlanger suggested where to eat on $250 a day (Fauchon + Coude a Coude, 46, rue St. Honore in the 1st, 01.40.28.15.64) and on $1,000 a day (Les Carre des Feuillants + Le Bistrot Paul Bert).

Tuesday, in Le Fooding, Frédérick-E. Grasser-Hermé reviewed the pizzeria Reginette, in the 8th.

Tuesday as well, ANP ‘s Philippe Toinard gave 2/5 dots to L’Atelier Mazarine, coordinates given before, where he was less than enchanted by the food.

Tuesday, on their website Le Figaro published an interview by Lucille Escourrou with Adeline Grattard of yam’Tcha.

Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin in Figaroscope gave 2/4 hearts to the Italian Mercato in the 2nd; one heart each to the pizzeria Le Reginette in the 8th and the Pates Vivantes Asian noodle offshoot, Paradis des Pates in the 9th and two busted hearts to the Middle-eastern Mangareva in St Cloud and Russian/Mediterranean Domic in the 7th.

In the Figaroscope’s Dossier, Colette Monsat wrote about lemon tartelettes; her ranking of the top ten was:

Carl Marletti

Jacques Genin

Pierre Herme

Secce

Carette

Bread & Roses

Angeline

Laduree

Paul

Laurent Duchene.

Francois Simon, in his “Hache Menu,” reviewed the tea salon/dessert place Jacques Genin,

Wednesday as well, Richard Hesse in Paris Update reviewed the unsung Je Thé…me, 4, rue d’Alleray in the 15th, 01 48 42 48 30, where he had a perfect meal of duck foie gras, marinated anchovies on lentils, roast cod with bacon and its risotto, veal kidney and sweetbreads served with spring vegetables, a triple serving of superb cheeses and a tiramisu; all with wines.

Saturday, Francois Simon in the Figaro in his “Croque-notes” discussed l’Auberge de Condé in La Ferté-sous-Jouarre.

Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp wrote about Les Paillottes, Cafe Branly & Le Reminet and John Talbott wrote an essay entitled “Well, a[nother] precedent is being broken - ethnic food.”

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of May 11th, 2009

Tuesday in Le Fooding, Julie Gerbert reviewed Le 51, 51, rue de Bercy in the 12th, 01.58.51.10.91, open 10 AM – 11 PM (closed Tuesdays) for “snacks” such as gazpacho, Caesar salad, picnic baskets and 9 € pitchers of Gamay. Snack menus are 8,40-12,40 € and restaurant menus in the evening 16-23 €.

Tuesday as well, ANP ‘s Jerome Berger gave 3/5 dots to Frenchie, coordinates given before, where he commented on the petit pois soup, quenelles of ricotta and pannacotta with red fruit.

Wednesday, in l'Express, Pierrick Jegu picked as his Parisian place for less than 30 E: Le Passage, 18, passage de la Bonne-Graine, in the 11th, 01-47-00-73-30, closed Saturdaty lunch and Sundays, costing about 30 E for asparagus salad, risotto with etrilles juice; the wine was good but the dessert less so. The remainder of the reviews were of restos in Nice and Cannes – coinciding with the Festival.

Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin in Figaroscope gave no hearts but the photo and blurb to the Costes new operation, the Café Germain, 25-27, rue de Buci in the 6th, 01 43 26 02 93, open 7/7, costing 35-45 € for crab, shrimp in bouillon, fish & chips and a banana split [sic] as well as 2/4 hearts to the Grand Mericourt, 22, rue de la Folie-Méricourt in the 11th, 01 43 38 94 04, open lunch from Tuesday to Friday and dinner Monday to Saturday, lunch menu = 17-20 , a la carte 45-60 € but only one heart to the Breton Cap Breton, 43, rue Le Peletier in the 9th, 01 40 16 16 07, closed weekends, lunch menu = 13, dinner 15-20 €, serving galettes and crepes, Le Templier, 25 bis, rue de l’Armorique in the 15th, 01.43.22.36.83, closed weekends and Mondays, Tuesday and Wednesday dinners, costing 25-30 € for herring, andouillette and duck breast and the Bistrot de l’Avenue, 16 ave de Villiers in the 17th, 01.47.63.25.61, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, with formulas at 30, 32 and 35 € with items such as petit pois soup, macaroni with aged ham, and iced nougat.

Wednesday, in Figaroscope, Colette Monsat, Alexandra Michot and Sylvain Vérut discussed apero places, as follows :

Big children

Ferdi

Intimate terrace

Cafe Drouant

In a garden

Cafe Reale

Cocktail bar

Murano Urban Resort

Spanish

Les Voisins

Neo-caviste

Lavinia

Basque-like

Afaria

Bonbon

La Paiva

And also Le 15Cent15, Bellota-Bellota

Passed plates

Andy Warloo, Park Hyatt Vendome, l’Absinthe

Bars with hors-d’œuvres

L'Avant-Comptoir de Camdeborde

Francois Simon, in his “Hache Menu,” reviewed Thierry Burlot’s second place Zebra, where he spent 141 € for aperos plus.

Wednesday as well, Richard Hesse in Paris Update reviewed the cocktail-ping pong-resto Derriere, which served good product, reasonably-priced wine and good dishes.

Friday, François-Régis Gaudry in l’Express, reviewed Le Park 45 in Cannes.

Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp wrote about L’Obé, Wa-Ri and Ducasse and John Talbott wrote an essay entitled “Why do some restaurants so shoot themselves in the foot?”

Sunday, Elaine Sciolino in the Travel Section of the NYT wrote an article on Roman France that mentioned the following restaurants in St Remy, Nimes (2) and Arles (2), Le Restaurant de la Reine Jeanne, Aux Plaisirs des Halles, Le Petit Bofinger, La Chassagnette + Le Galoubet.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of May 18th, 2009

Tuesday in Le Fooding, Miss Sardine reviewed Le Gibolin, in Arles.

Tuesday as well, ANP ‘s Philippe Toinard gave 1/5 dots to Chez Yolaine, 9, rue d’Argenteuil (the Pre Sale space) in the 1st, 01.42.96.40.02, closed Sundays, with lower prices (13,50 menu at lunch, a la carte 25 €) but spotty food – instead of seasonal products - pumpkin soup, boeuf bourguignon, duck breast and chocolate dessert in an ocean of cream; while Jerome Berger gave 3/5 dots to Le Tourbillon, 45, rue Claude Bernard in the 5th, 01.47.07.86.32, with a lunch formula at 16, menu-carte at 24 or 27 €, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, coordinates given before, where he commented the ex-Rostang chef’s simple terrine of Challans duck, pork cheeks and white chocolate mousse.

Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin in Figaroscope gave 3/4 hearts to the hotel restaurant - the Jardin d’Ampere, Hotel Ampere, 102, ave de Villiers in the 17th, 01.44.29.16.54, closed Sundays at dinner, costing 40-50 a la carte but with lunch menus at 24 and 28 €, serving asparagus and morue, veal with corn raviolis and kalamansi. Then he gave the photo and 2/4 hearts to 122, 122, rue de Grenelle in the 7th, 01.45.56.07.42, closed weekends, with a lunch formula at 16,50, menu-carte at 35 and 20 € aperoserving egg in seafood jelly, puree of cironated avocado and perfect lemon tart as well at to Makassar, Hotel Renaissance Empire Arc de Triomphe, 39 Ave de Wagram in the 17th, 01.55.37.55.37, open 7/7, with lunch menus at 28 and 34, a la carte 40-50 € for marinated shrimp, lamb with green papaya and moelleux of chocolate. One heart only went to Le 51 at the Cinematheque francaise, see last week, as well as Depur, 58, rue Montorgueil in the 2nd, 01.42.63.36.43, open 7/7 with Bobo-yoyo 20-40 € stuff such as club sandwiches, beef tartare and crème brulee.

Wednesday, in Figaroscope, Colette Monsat et al proposed 10 garden eating spots:

Le Tir aux Pigeons + Les Jardins de Bagatelle in the Bois de Boulogne

Rosa Bonheur + Da Vincenzo Cozzoli in the Buttes Chaumont

The Cafe Branly at the Quai Branly

Le Chalet des Iles Daumesnil in the Bois de Vincennes

La Baleine in the Jardin des Plantes

The Cafe Lenotre on the Champs-Elysees

Le Saut de Loup in the Tuileries

Un the au Jardin in the Musee de la Vie Romantique

Other spots : Apicius, Raimo + OKay Cafe

Le Grand Fooding next May 24th in the Parc de St Cloud

Another hidden resto - le Clandestino San Pellegrino

And Francois Simon’s pick in his “Hache Menu,” was the Restaurant de la Palais Royal, where he spent 129 € for a very agreeable soirée and says « Yep » about going.

Wednesday as well, Richard Hesse in Paris Update reviewed the Breton Nominoe where he liked the food despite the limited menu, but not the seating.

Wednesday, in Le Monde, Jean-Claude Ribaut reviewed the Georgian restaurant De Da in the 1st.

Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp wrote about “Cyril, L'Orenoc Brunch, Hotel Raphael & Relais du Parc and John Talbott wrote an essay entitled “When the Incredible Lightness of Being is Pure Vapor.”

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of May 25th, 2009

Monday Francois-Regis Gaudry on his blog reviewed Le 58, 58 Tour Eiffel in the 7th, 08 25 56 66 62, where one can eat burgers, fries, etc for 19 €.

Tuesday, Yves Nespoulous reviewed Le 7e Continent in Rixheim.

Tuesday as well, ANP ‘s Philippe Toinard gave 3/5 dots to La Garconniere, 98 rue Michel-Ange in the 16th, 01 46 51 27 50, open 7/7, costing a la carte 20-38 € and positions itself between a chic bistro and brasserie, serving items such as foie gras poached in red wine, an œuf mayo, heirloom tomatoes and strawberries and Jerome Berger reviewed and gave 4/5 dots to the new Caius annex - Zinc Caius, 11, rue d’Armaillee in the 17th, 01.44.09.05.10, closed Sundays, a la carte about 30 €, where he liked the lardo on lentils, rilettes of rabbit with foie gras and chocolate mousse.

Wednesday, in l'Express, Francois-Regis Gaudry wrote up the smoothie place Totum in the 10th and Thursday the pizza place La Campionissmo in the 2nd.

Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin in Figaroscope gave 2/4 hearts and the photo-op to Zinc Caius, see above; he also liked the lard with lentils, rabbit with prunes and warm cherries and to Anacréon, 53, bd Saint-Marcel in the 13th, 01 43 31 71 18, closed weekends chef'd by an ex-Bistrot de Marius), serving a no salt lunch for 19 €, a la carte 30-40 € with items such as fleur de sel on sardines and fresh herbs on langoustines, a tarte fine of rouget, grilled sole and moelleux of chocolate. One heart each went to Kitchen, 74, rue des Gravilliers in the 3rd, 09.50.06.36.18, closed Saturdays, but open only from 8 AM – 3 PM for 10-15 € smoothies, soup, etc and Louis 2, 16, rue de la Tremoille in the 8th, 01.56.52.14.14 open 7/7, with a lunch formula at 35 and a la carte 40-50 € for green asparagus and egg, tuna “hamburger,” and lemon cheesecake.

Wednesday, in Figaroscope, Colette Monsat and Sylvain Verut reviewed the new terrace restaurants:

Plain

Le 51

Very Little Italy [sic]

Al Taglio only in the evening

Quiet

Le Carre Rouge, Studio SFR, 9, rue Tronchet in the 8th, 01.43.12.75.00, closed Sundays, a la carte about 25 €.

Starck System

Mama Shelter

Plain sky

Zyriab

Garden court

Jardin d’Ampere

Dejeuner sur l’herbe

Roland Garros

Food in shop

Primo piano

And for several parasols

Les Ombres, Café Guitry, Laurent, Le Bistro de Breteuil, Le Moulin de la Galette, Le Square Trousseau, Chez Lena & Mimile

New discoveries in this new section called Passe plats

Astier for filet de sole

Granterroirs for gambas

l’Arvor for a coffee in a charming hotel.

News

The Mini-Palais will be closed from the end of May until mid October.

And Francois Simon went to the Bar 30 in the Hôtel Sofitel, 15, rue Boissy d'Anglas in the 13th, 01 44 94 14 14 for cod, etc. He says to go if you're in the area for 98,50 €.

Wednesday as well, Heidi Ellison in Paris Update reviewed Les Enfants Perdus, 9, rue des Récollets in the 10th, 01 81 29 48 26, open 7/7 except for brunch Sundays, lunch formula at 15 and a la carte about 36 € which has name-brand and fresh products and serves dishes such as pumpkin soup, calamari cassolet, dorade with vegetables and and array of desserts.

Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp wrote about Market & Le Sud and John Talbott wrote an essay entitled “F.A.Q.

“John, What exactly do you do over there (here)?”

While Francois Simon’s Saturday “Croques Notes” are not posted on the Figaro website, I have a sneaky suspicion that he wrote about Jacques Maximin’s coming to Rech from Vence, because such an article appeared today on his blog. Two negative points, he’s not there everyday and the bill comes to 80 € per, considerably more than it has been.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of June 1st, 2009

Tuesday, Perrick Jegu, in l’Express reviewed Le Tourbillon, 45, rue Claude Bernard in the 5th, 01.47.07.86.32, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, whose chef, Cédric Tessier, passed through the houses of Dutournier and Rostang, and who prepares gambas, sweet and sour salad, pork cheeks and pineapples for 16 for a formula at lunch, 24 for two dishes and 27 € for the menu-carte. In addition, Wednesday, in l'Express, Francois-Regis Gaudry wrote up the hit-of-the-season Frenchie on his blog.

Tuesday, as well, Anna Polonsky reviewed the San Franciscan sushi bar Rice Fish in the 3rd.

Tuesday also, ANP ‘s Jerome Berger gave 4/5 dots to Les Fougeres, 10, rue Villebois-Moreuil in the 17th, 01.40.68.78.66, closed weekends, lunch menu-carte at 25; dinner 36 and 60, a la carte 60 € for chef Stephane Duchiron (who trained with Savoy and Lameloise) serves risotto with tomato, veal rolls and a savarin dessert; while Philippe Toinard only gave 1/5 to La Ferme de l’Oncle Franck, 5, rue des Petits Hotels in the 10th, 01.40.22.03.95. closed weekends too, with 24 and 30 € menus which are long, duplicative of many others, with many non-seasonal items that are also not true to its regional theme - Auvergne specialties.

Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin in Figaroscope gave 2/4 hearts to 4 places: the photo-op went to Cru, 7, rue Charlemagne in the 4th, 01.40.27.81.84, closed Sunday dinner and Mondays, costing 19 at lunch and 35-40 € for dinner for bar carpaccio, green asparagus, seiche and iced yogurt; and the other three were l’Ambassade des Terroirs, 45 rue Perre-Timbaud in Gennevilliers, 01.47.98.39.26, closed Sundays and Monday at dinner, serving sweetbreads, wild asparagus, duck breast and pear in wine on 28 and 32 menus, a la carte 40-50 €; the successfully-moved Vin Chai Moi, to 18, rue Duphot in the 8th, 01.40.15.06.69, closed Sundays and Mondays, with 19 and 24 menus and menu-cartes at 24 and 27 €, for a terrine of the day, beef cheeks and lamb shoulder; and Le Tourbillon, coordinates above with pintade, veal and white chocolate mousse. One heart went to Le Manoir, 229, ave Gambetta in the 20th, 01.43.61.38.47, closed Sundays, with 12 and 14 formulas and a la carte 20-25 € with items such as oeuf mayo, farm chicken with fries and crème caramel.

Wednesday, in Figaroscope, Colette Monsat and Alexandra Michot reviewed ten restaurants in lovely squares:

Eduard VII

Café Guitry

Fontaine de Mars

Les Fables de la Fontaine

Dauphine

Paul

Marche St-Honore

l’Absinthe

Gaillon

Fontaine Gaillon

Breteuil

Bistro de Breteuil

Gustave Toudouze

Kastoori

Maurice Chevalier

La Bouche

d’Aligre

La Table d’Aligre

New discoveries in this new section called Passe plats

Chez les Anges for the 34 E menu-carte

Taillevent for the selection of wines with the 80 E lunch

Passage 53 for the Desnoyer veal.

Les Deux Abeilles for the adorable patio.

And Francois Simon went to the restaurant Metropolitan in the hotel of the same name, 85, rue de Longchamp in the 16th, 01 56 90 40 03 ; bottom line : it’s like 2,250 other places in Paris.

Wednesday as well, Richard Hesse, in Paris Update reviewed Bollywood Lounge in the 5th.

Friday, on his blog, Alexander Lobrano discussed three recent meals, a great and inexpensive one at the Asian Au Coin des Gourmets, an excellent one at La Cour Jardin and an uneven and expensive one at the Maison de l’Amerique Latine.

Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp wrote about the Maison de l'Amerique Latine & Hotel Banque and John Talbott wrote an essay entitled “Eating at Home - I”

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of June 8th, 2009

Tuesday, Julie Gerbert, in Le Fooding reviewed the Franco-Japanese Sous les Cerisiers in the 6th {that certainly sounds more Japanese than Franco to me}.

Tuesday as well, ANP ‘s Philippe Toinard gave 3/5 dots to Vin Chai Moi, coordinates given before, in the former Delizie d'Uggiano space, retaining their famous cocktails with syrup and having a mixed dietetic/gargantuan menu with a terrine maison, a gaspacho of petits pois, salmon and veal daube. Across the page, Jerome Berger gave 3/5 to the “trendy cantine” La Bouche, 1, rue d’Eurpatoria/pl. Maurice Chavelier in the 20th, 09.53.56.24.14, closed Sunday nights and Mondays, with a lunch formula at 14 and menus at 23 and 28 € (dinner) for tabouli, pork chop and melon soup.

Wednesday, in l'Express, Francois-Regis Gaudry wrote up the Japanese Makoto Aoki in the 8th.

Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin in Figaroscope gave 2/4 hearts to the California-Japanese Rice & Fish and 1/4 to the bank converted to a hotel-restaurant Bling Banke, Hotel Banke, 20 rue La Fayette in the 9th, 01.55.33.22.22, open 7/7, costing about 50 € a la carte for eggs with Bellotta, cassolette of peas Catalan style and milk-fed pork as well as a new Costes-run Italianate Corso, 2 place Franz Liszt in the 10th, 01.42.47.01.23, open 7/7, costing 35-45 € for cod “cappuccino”, Montana entrecote and Neapolitan vacherin.

Wednesday also, in Figaroscope, Colette Monsat reviewed restaurants for all occasions:

Intimate

The Duke’s Bar

Hotel Daniel

Restaurant de l’Hotel

1728

Laperouse

To see and be seen

La Societe

Derriere

La Fidelite

La Reginette

Café Germain

Groups of friends

La Salle a Manger du Square Trousseau

Les Papilles

Caffe dei Cioppi

La Cave de l’Os a Moelle

With kids?

Mood

Atelier Maitre Albert

O Restaurant

Justine

58 Tour Eiffel

New discoveries

Zen Garden for their 45 E whole turbot

Le Comptoir de Tunesie for a totally fresh menu for 16 E

La Villa Corse for a pork chop and puree.

And Francois Simon went to the delicious crepes bar, the West Country Girl , 6, passage Saint-Ambroise in the 11th, 01 47 00 72 54, currently closed Sundays and Mondays. “Go?” “Yes,” it’s only 40,10 E for four.

Wednesday as well, Richard Hesse, in Paris Update gave a very nice review to Les Fines Gueules in the 1st.

Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp wrote about La Reserve Ramatuelle, Obamas' Eats & Les Crayeres and John Talbott wrote an essay entitled “Eating at Home: I.”

Sunday’s NYT had an article by Joe Nocera that suggested eating at Le Cilantro in Arles.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of June 15th, 2009

Monday, in A Nous Paris, Philippe Toinard gave 3/5 dots and reviewed the “girly” Cru, coordinates given before, where he noted both the cooked and cru fish (some out of season or facing extinction) as well as duck, soups, salads, carpaccios, tartares, etc. Meanwhile, Jerome Berger awarded 3/5 to Le Chamare Montmartre, coordinates given before, apparently because the terrace is now open and they have a 17 € 2-course lunch, 3 for 25 € which he quite liked. In the side-bar they say they’re following Les Grandes Bouches, 78, rue de Levis in the 17th, 01.43.80.40.36 which serves good menus at 17 and 26 € (pastilla of goose confit and duck breast.)

Monday Francois-Regis Gaudry on his blog reviewed Le 58, 58 Tour Eiffel in the 7th, 08 25 56 66 62, where one can eat burgers, fries, etc for 19 €.

Tuesday, in l'Express, as his resto for under 30 E, Pierrick Jégu reviewed Le Dandy, 17, rue des Petits-Champs in the 1st, 01-42-96-47-54, a la carte about 25 euros, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, serving a nice daurade tartare, Corsican sausage and an impeccable blanc-manger all with a view of the gardens of the Palais Royal.

Tuesday, in Le Fooding Julia Sammut reviewed Le Bistrot d'Edouard in Marseille.

Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin in Figaroscope gave 2/4 hearts to Chalbens, 33, rue de la Chine in the 20th, 01.40.33.48.01, closed Sundays and Mondays, with a lunch formula at 12,50 but variable a la carte prices from 25-40 €, in the ex-Vin Chai Moi space, serving gazpacho with peppers, a lamb stew and chocolate fondant. In addition, three places merited one heart, the photo-op went to Les Trois Baudets, 64, Blvd de Clichy in the 18th, 01.42.62.33.33, closed Mondays, Sunday brunch, serving bean salad, spinach and ricotta spaghetti and strawberry tarts; then there were the crepe place Francois Simon wrote up last week - West Country Girl and Pod, 39, rue des Vinaigiers in the 10th, 01.40.36.08.31, closed Sundays, with 12 and 18 menus, a la carte about 25 €, for a millefeuille of tomato-mozzarella, salmon with mustard and a moelleux of cocolate. A busted heart went to 182, 182, quai Louis Bleriot in the 16th, 01.42.88.79.17, reprised by the gang that runs the Café Barge with menu-cartes at 35 and 44 € serving an assiette campagnarde, brochette of over-cooked shrimp and risotto, filet of bass and lifeless, dry rice.

Wednesday, in Figaroscope, Colette Monsat et al reviewed the best mojitos in Paris, the top three being at:

Bar du Costes

Le 228

Bar du Lutetia

And Francois Simon went to the Montana for one but they’d run out of fresh mint so he had a champagne and Belvedere for 31 € which he said was “whatever.”

Wednesday as well, Richard Hesse, in Paris Update wrote another of his thoughtful and informative reviews of Frenchie, coordinates already given {as noted before he’s one of the few reviewers writing in English.}

Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, John Talbott wrote an essay entitled “Ordering the Cheapest Wine on the Menu.”

While Francois Simon’s Saturday “Croques Notes” are not posted on the Figaro website {yet?}, I have a sneaky suspicion that they duplicate what is on his blog where he lauds Georges, rue de Mail near the place des Victoires, where he’s been coming for 20 year but warns that the Breton chef, Alain, will soon be retiring, so hurry up if you want to go.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of June 22nd, 2009

Tuesday, Philippe Lafon, in Le Fooding reviewed the wine plus light food place in Gaillac, the Vigne en Foule.

Tuesday as well, ANP‘s Jerome Berger gave 3/5 dots to Sous les Cerisiers, 12 rue Stanislas in the 6th, 01 42 77 46 24, open Mon-Fri evenings only, run by a Franco-Japanese chef who has three menus at 38 €, 48 € et 68 € containing very Japanesy-sounding food and Philippe Toinard reviews l’Acajou, coordinates in the guidebooks, which has had the same chef (Jean Imbert) since 2004 but has a new table d’hote, common table and terrace but serves awful sounding dishes, except for the millefeuille for 19 (lunch), 31-59 € and is closed Saturday lunch and Sunday night.

Tuesday, in l'Express, Katell Pouliquen reviewed as her resto under 30 € Au Reve, 89, rue Caulaincourt in the 18th, 01-46-06-20-87, a la carte : 20 euros, open 7/7, serving salads, pasta and daurade. Thursday, Francois-Regis Gaudry wrote up the Maurician/French Chamarre, coordinates given before, beloved by everyone but me, as his restaurant of the week. That day on his blog he also wrote up a restaurant that indeed does look like it belongs in Brooklyn, Yard, 6, rue de Mont Louis in the 11th, lunch formula at 13 €, a la carte : 30 € serving good mozzarella but banal tomatoes, mackerel and tagliatelles.

Wednesday, Emmanual Rubin took over the “Dossier”and the end of year insert and summarized places with terraces :

The most inescapable

Yam’Tcha

The most city picnic

Mama Shelter

The mosr Marais

Cru

The most hidden

Passage 53

The most neo-guinguette

Cantina Mundo

Most Italian

Caffe dei Cioppi

Most experimental

Nomiya

Most Costes

La Societe

Most BCB Green

Le Jardin d’Ampere

Most bistro

Frenchie

The most cinema-eat

Le 51

The most country like in Paris

Rosa Bonheur

The most night

La Reginette

The m,ost smoke in summer

La Terrasse du Chacha

The most muted Asian

Rice & Fish

The most Bobo

Corso

The most so long so close

Chamarre Montmartre

The most Chinese

Shan Gout

The most mini mini

Le Zinc Caius

The most sane

Kitchen

And Francois Simon went to the Cafe Germain, coordinates given, where three ate for 117 € and to go, he says "Bah, bof…."

Wednesday as well, Richard Hesse, in Paris Update came over Montmartre and reviewed Le Café Qui Parle very positively.

Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp wrote two essays about Le Café Pleyel and Romantica Caffe and Vin Chai Moi, Bistrot de l'Avenue & Chalet des Iles and John Talbott wrote one entitled “Cultural differences I – US and France.”

Saturday in Figaro’s “Croque Notes,” Francois Simon is the latest to have “found” Chamarre in Montmartre.

In a perfectly charming article in July’s Gourmet, Alexander Lobrano takes a trip down memory lane to the great old favorites of yesteryear: L’Ambassade d’Auvergne, Auberge Le Quincy, Chez Georges {soon to lose its chef}, La Grille, Josephine Chez Dumonet, Au Moulin à Vent, Robert et Louise, La Tour de Montlhéry Chez Denise + Le Train Bleu. Jarringly juxtaposed are Ruth Reichl’s five contemporary favorites: L’Ami Jean, L’Astrance, Le Comptoir du Relais, Pierre Gagnaire + Le Pré Catelan.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

Edited June 30, 2009 by John Talbott (log)