TN: Recent tastes

[Florida Jim]

1995 Snowden, Cabernet Sauvignon:

My last bottle from a case and I am not sad to see it go. The winemaker started with terrific fruit; ripe, concentrated, varietally pleasing and then the barrel program blew it. It’s not heinously over-oaked but it’s to the point that the fruit gets hidden behind a bit of vanilla here and a dab of dill there. Sometimes, a good dose of the fruit gets through and it’s delicious but too often there’s an overlay of wood. And at 13 years out, I can’t see it integrating. Maybe some will see this as complex; I don’t.

2006 Edmunds St, John, That Old Black Magic:

Ah yes, all wine, no trees. A co-fermentation of grenache and syrah, this has a southern Rhône attitude and a CA intensity. Nuanced aromatics; a complete wine in the mouth with fine grained flavors, good structure and despite its 14.3% alcohol, an elegant and medium weight delivery. A joy to drink, especially after the preceding wine.

1993 Dom. Tempier, Bandol:

Had a slight onion smell and flavor and is not full resolved – other than that, a very interesting bottle but one I would never have guessed from Bandol.

1999 Juge, Cornas Cuvée SC:

Clearly of its place, fairly integrated and definitely in the feminine spectrum for the AOC. Has fleshed out some since the last bottle I had in October and carries a sort of ash note amid solid Cornas/syrah scents and flavors.

Quilceda Creek, Cab./Merlot/Cab. franc blend:

I didn’t catch the year and really don’t care; way too oaky on both the nose and palate – well past my threshold for such things.

2007 Biggio Hamina, Melon:

A new winery in Oregon that appears to believe less is more; this is bright, acidic but balanced with pretty good depth and sustain. Not Luneau-Papin but a nice wine and quite good with chicken Caesar salad with crusty olive bread. A producer worth watching.

Best, Jim