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Lievre a la royale in Paris


ulterior epicure
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And today I had it at Cavesteve albeit not up to the level of other places.

As an aside - we stumbled on a little wine store called Cavesteve. Any relation? Robyn

Well, there are two, one near the Bastille in the 4th, the other on the rue de Longchamp in the 16th where we were. Both are not so little when you go downstairs for instance.

John Talbott

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They are now managed by Jérôme Moreau, formerly sommelier at Le Bristol. He told me they would consider serving some dishes but do not have good cooking facilities, so imagine: lièvre à la royale! Perhaps the lièvre came from a third-party kitchen. I'll ask.

Edited by Ptipois (log)
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They are now managed by Jérôme Moreau, formerly sommelier at Le Bristol. He told me they would consider serving some dishes but do not have good cooking facilities, so imagine: lièvre à la royale! Perhaps the lièvre came from a third-party kitchen. I'll ask.

I'm quite sure all the hot dishes came from elsewhere, I was pushing it by having lievre; I'll be posting my full report after this weekend. Wines were great.

John Talbott

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And today I had it at Cavesteve albeit not up to the level of other places.

As an aside - we stumbled on a little wine store called Cavesteve. Any relation? Robyn

Well, there are two, one near the Bastille in the 4th, the other on the rue de Longchamp in the 16th where we were. Both are not so little when you go downstairs for instance.

We went to the one in the 16th. My husband did go downstairs to pick out some wine - and he said it was pretty big. Good wine too - at reasonable prices. Robyn

P.S. Is the wine store the same as the restaurant you mentioned?

Edited by robyn (log)
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For someone dying to have this dish in NYC, it will be served this coming Wednesday at a special game dinner at Daniel.

The six course game dinner for $495 also includes a wood pigeon course in addition to the lievre.

John Sconzo, M.D. aka "docsconz"

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For someone dying to have this dish in NYC, it will be served this coming Wednesday at a special game dinner at Daniel.

The six course game dinner for $495 also includes a wood pigeon course in addition to the lievre.

Thanks doc. Don't think I haven't already lost sleep over having to miss that one. It seems that the powers that be have me chained to desk until my blessed parole in December.

[Europeans: cover your ears]

I just hope the trend up on the USD continues at the pace it's going. If so, it's looking like a great holiday for u.e.

Edited by ulterior epicure (log)

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There is a big table in the basement, about 5 tables seating 2 each on the ground floor and 2 tables seating two outside.  The food preparation area is on the ground floor.

Having been in that space - I can't imagine 5 tables seating 2 on the ground floor. Unless the people are all very good friends! Robyn

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Le Monde today has its say into our debate with a Ribaut's article about game. They mention the usual suspects, especially Besson and Rostang. And they also add someone I should have thought about, the former chef at Lucas Carton then Senderens, Frédéric Robert. Having tasted the incredible sauce at Senderens now, it suddenly strikes me that tasting the Robert version (at La Grande Cascade), who must be even better because he is such a great executive chef, is a must this season. And the description of the sauce as "miroir" (mirror), as you can see from my pics upthread, is quite appropriate.

By the way, here's the article (in French...) http://www.lemonde.fr/aujourd-hui/article/...12412_3238.html

And, by the other way, here's Briffard's take on the lièvre -- this is two shoulders, cooked whole and very perfectly (not dry at all), with a sauce that is delicious but of which there is not nearly enough. (the restaurant is Le Cinq)

DSC_0022.JPG

You can see foie gras raviolis on the front, big lardons on top, and you probably can't see chanterelles in the back.

Edited by julot-les-pinceaux (log)
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And, by the other way, here's Briffard's take on the lièvre -- this is two shoulders, cooked whole and very perfectly (not dry at all), with a sauce that is delicious but of which there is not nearly enough. (the restaurant is Le Cinq)

DSC_0022.JPG

You can see foie gras raviolis on the front, big lardons on top, and you probably can't see chanterelles in the back.

Just when I finally set my mind on getting the Pithiviers tomorrow...

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had a lievre a la royale last weekend at Auberge Bressane in the 7th. served with a slab of foie gras on top, grapes and chestnuts. meat was a bit dry but had great flavor, cost is 30 or 40 euro. restaurant has quite a good game menu. dishes with venison, palombe (a type of pigeon), col vert duck, wild boar, partridge. Other dishes ordered were a seared venison loin served with a liver toast and a wild game pie with cepes. both good even though my friend said the cepes had a strange flavor.

gallery_57865_6275_134720.png

Edited by Le Peche (log)
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As promised, here is the wild hare I had at hotel de ville lievre a la royale

For the more comprehensive review, I put it at here

I am not a big fan of this dish after I had it for the 1st time at Caprice HK. It's just not for me I think ... But then, Philippe Rochat changed it. His sauce is intense, yet not too rich ... the hare's meat is slightly tamed with the "brown" crust. A glass of red wine balancing this dish make it sublime

Edited by Bu Pun Su (log)
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  • 3 weeks later...

had a lievre a la royale last night in l'Ami Jean – classic, dark and rich.

Waiter kicked off with what sounded like a well used limp joke – "ce soir monsieur, nous n'avons pas de lievre a la royale mais c'est le lievre Sarkozy".

Costs around €40 (seems not a bad price these days) but the bottle of Irouléguy that washed it down was a steal.

L'Ami Jean also have the world's best riz au lait and you get lots of it.

A brisk walk back to the hotel in Passy was needed to help our digestion

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As promised, here is the wild hare I had at hotel de ville lievre a la royale

For the more comprehensive review, I put it at here

I am not a big fan of this dish after I had it for the 1st time at Caprice HK. It's just not for me I think ... But then, Philippe Rochat changed it. His sauce is intense, yet not too rich ... the hare's meat is slightly tamed with the "brown" crust. A glass of red wine balancing this dish make it sublime

China really is my favourite thing at Rochat. Wonderful plates.

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  • 4 weeks later...

In an article in Saturday’s Figaro, Francois Simon sampled lièvre à la royale, (doux Jésus!) at: Bascou, where it comes with a chocolaty sauce at 25 € a half-portion as well as Tateru Yoshino’s at Stella Maris and those at Gérard Besson for 65 € and Senderens, which with a 45 € Côtes-du-rhône set him back 212 € for two. It's only available now in the pdf version or abbreviated on his blog.

John Talbott

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Stella lievre is pretty insane

Anti-alcoholics are unfortunates in the grip of water, that terrible poison, so corrosive that out of all substances it has been chosen for washing and scouring, and a drop of water added to a clear liquid like Absinthe, muddles it." ALFRED JARRY

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I enjoyed a fine version of Lievre a la royale at Le Comptoir on Sunday, it was €37 probably the most expensive item on the menu.

gallery_58133_6172_7198.jpg

It was interesting to re-visit Le Comptoir, it seems to have fallen from favour but our weekend lunch experience was very good. Each dish was well cooked with great quality ingredients. I think it is over hyped which tends to create a bit of a back-lash, however I much preferred it to my dinner at Le Regalade a few days earlier. Food only OK, service appalling - it felt like Doucet was trying to ram as many punters through as quickly as possible. It felt like a production line.

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