Recent 2 Weeks in Paris

[grace3]

I returned from Paris on Wednesday. I took my granddaughter and her husband for one week and then I stayed on for another week.

Some dining: Our first night we went to La Regalade. Early dinner for us. Only one couple when we arrived..the magic hour seems to be 8:30 for Paris. By 8:30 it was full. Yes the tables are close together. I guess we lucked out, as we wer on the end. We did enjoy it.

Other places: Ferrandaise...cute place..cows on the walls..good service, enjoyed. l'Epigramme. Now they have space between their tables. Definitely better have a dinner reservation. There were 5 or 6 groups turned away because they had no reservation!

A place I would never, ever retunr to: Allard's. Went there more or less on short notice. It was terrible..and I have heard people say how fon they were of the duck and olives...Another thing about it that really annoyed me. Upon entering there is a dining room to the right and another to the left. They take all of whom they think are tourists to the right and crowd them in. I noticed when we left that the dining room to the left is much nice and I gathered, for locals.

Also for great lunch in Le Meurice bar...nice spot..expensive lunch!

We did coucous one night. Afraid I am not really into it!

Also Constants Les Cocottes, Cafer Constant, Fables, Fontaine de Mars, Les clos de Gourmets, Le P'tit Trouquet.

Had a great lunch at Spring! You obviously do not go there for the decor or ambience..it is all for the food..which was delightful. But, of course, there is also the charm of Daniel Rose!!

That covers most of it....

I have noticed that some of the more casual trend around the world is even happening in Paris. Some of us probaly would not like to see it happen...but take a look when at the airport. I had a lot of sitting to do..mainly in Atlanta. Unbelievable what you see...Do any of you remember a time when you actually "dressed" to take a flight? Now, you can't tell if they are about to go out and work in their yard or maybe have just come from working in their yard! Must be a sign of getting old.

This was my last trip for less than a one month stay. The flight is just too miserable! I have a very special brand new Paris Perfect spot rented for mid Sept. to mid Oct. It is on the 7th floor and huge windows with all of Paris in front of you!!

I will be making some dining reservations before long for that period of time. I will be watching this site for some ideas.....

Joan

[John Talbott]

A place I would never, ever retunr to: Allard's. Went there more or less on short notice. It was terrible..

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Thanks for the report Joan. Your comment about Allard refreshed my memory about something I think it was Julot said - that he doesn't report bad experiences. Now I do and I encourage others to do so, so that folks like you will be warned off. But the absence of any news about places like Allard vs the cascade of plaudits for places like Spring should be a warning sign. No news is probably bad news on this Forum.

[Ptipois]

Allard was also terrible the last time I went there. Some time ago. Not to mention the price. I chose not to write anything about it and bury it as deep as possible in my memory. It's like the resurfacing of an old demon. Brrrrrr!

[grace3]

I am glad to hear others agree with me. I really didn't expect anything "great" in going there, but I have heard many, many times people saying to go there for their duck with olives!

[Luna Calvados]

That covers most of it....

I have noticed that some of the more casual trend around the world is even happening in Paris. Some of us probaly would not like to see it happen...but take a look when at the airport. I had a lot of sitting to do..mainly in Atlanta. Unbelievable what you see...Do any of you remember a time when you actually "dressed" to take a flight? Now, you can't tell if they are about to go out and work in their yard or maybe have just come from working in their yard! Must be a sign of getting old.

Joan

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Yes, I do remember a time when one actually "dressed" to take a flight or to go out to dinner or to attend a performance. And I, too, have noticed that this casual trend has been happening more and more, even in the most sophisticated, cosmopolitan cities like Paris and New York. I also agree that it must be a sign of getting old that one notices these things with annoyance. Most of the ladies and gentlemen that one sees dressed for dinner in proper attire are senior citizens! And when one sees people in the airports dressed in sweatclothes, jeans, shorts, tee shirts, and tank tops, it really makes one wonder what they wear for truly casual clothing when they are just being comfortable at home--pajamas or underwear?

[stealw]

Grace3- Can you elabore more about several of these places you mentioned? I will be going to Paris with couple of my friends in a few weeks and quite interested in checking some of these places out.

Can you give a brief overview on what they serve, what you recommend and general price range?

Thanks a ton.

1st

Ferrandaise...cute place..cows on the walls..good service, enjoyed. l'Epigramme. Now they have space between their tables. Definitely better have a dinner reservation.

2nd

Had a great lunch at Spring! You obviously do not go there for the decor or ambience..it is all for the food..which was delightful.

Also any pointers for me as a new traveler to Paris and any little secrets you can share?

Thanks

Jim

Edited May 3, 2008 by stealw (log)

[David Lebovitz]

I am glad to hear others agree with me. I really didn't expect anything "great" in going there, but I have heard many, many times people saying to go there for their duck with olives!

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Yes, if anyone wants to start a post about what a lousy experience and meal they had at Allard, count me in too...

[grace3]

Yes, La Regalade for the 3 of us...a coupe and only glasses of wine, water and dinner was 170.50 euros...it is a good spot

La Ferrandaise is also a good spot...only 128.50 that night

Don't know how I could have forgotten Au Gourmand..a favorite spot. Actually tiwice..once with kids and again with French friends. With the kids it was 177.50. This is on rue Moliere, in case you do not know. Very nice place, in every way.

Le Meurice bar..nice spot..lunch was 140 euros..a croque Meurice, a club sandwiche, a beer, a Bailey's and a soup and salad..

Also had lunch with friends at La Fontaine Gaillon.. mainly to see the inside of the building. I was treated for lunch there.

Also went to Agape in the 17th for lunch..water, wine by glass lunch was 55 euros...it is a very modern place. Very much into foam.

l'Epigramme..dinner menu only 28 euros..add the wine etc....a real bargain, a nice place..many turned away..need reservations.

We went to Train Bleu..just to show kids the fanciest of the Belle Epoques..food mediocre

The Constant restaurants are all good..Les Cocottes, Cafe Constant, Violon d'Ingres, and Fables.

I went to Fontaine de Mars by myself 95 euros for a very good lunch

Spring you need reservations way in advance..Daniel said it was into July when we were there a week ago. Lunch only on Friday..set menu..39 euros, I believe..a very good buy....

I hope this helps a little..

Have a great trip!!

Joan

[grace3]

Yes, if anyone wants to start a post about what a lousy experience and meal they had at Allard, count me in too...

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David,

It sounds like there are at least as many who dislike Allard as those who think it is great!!

Joan

[dlc]

I think that this would be a great thread. Count me in. My worst meal in Paris ever was February 4th at Le Procope. A friend was renting an apartment in the area and really wanted to go. Plateau de Mer was full of stinky items

[grace3]

I don't think Le Procope has a very good reputation....too bad.

There are so many, many good restaurants in Paris..it is a shame to go to one that is so bad!

[John Talbott]

Grace3- Can you elabore more about several of these places you mentioned? I will be going to Paris with couple of my friends in a few weeks and quite interested in checking some of these places out.

Jim

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Jim, I think if you use the search function you'll find a fair amount on the places mentioned.

John

[robyn]

Thanks for your report Joan. Count me as one of the people who wear "comfy pajama type" things when taking red-eye or very long flights. If all I'm going to do on the flight is sleep - I figure I ought to be dressed for it . Regarding "casual" clothing in restaurants in places like Paris - I have read that expensive jeans - tees - leather jackets - etc. - are fine - as long as you look like a male or female model wearing them. Perhaps I could have pulled off the look 30 years and 10 pounds ago - but I can't today - so I dress more conservatively. I think it's a question of looking at an outfit in the mirror and being honest with yourself.

Just curious. What was so awful about the flight from Atlanta? We hub through Atlanta all the time (and will be doing so on our trip to Paris). I think it's a pretty nice airport.

BTW - was that price at the LeMeurice bar for 1 person or 3?

[grace3]

Robyn...Comfortable clothes for the long flight is what you want! Yes, designer jeans (I wear them) with nice tops, leather jackets are fine. Unfortunately, many are not dressed that nicely!

I fly out of Atlanta or Cincinnati all the time to Paris. Depending on the time of the year for which one I use. The Cincinnati airport is really a nice airport. From Asheville I fly Delta and Air France codeshare. The shuttle service from Asheville is terrible. If you don't take the very early morning flight then you don't know when you will get to ATL..so, you spend the day in the ATL airport. Delta dropped a regular 4:00 flight, so nothing from early afternoon til 7 in the evening..another long sit at the airport...almost 24 hours returning home from the time you leave Paris for the airport. That's why I am not staying less than a month anymore. In Sept. I will go via CVG. I did luck out on this last trip over..I had all 3 seats to stretch out on!! That was a treat!

Re: Dining posts...between what is on this site in other places, you will find that most have websites and you can pull up menus.

Re: Le Meurice Bar..that was for 3. I went alone another time and it was 60. A nice atmosphere.

[plafield]

Just a quick note about Spring...He's doing lunch on at least some Thursdays as well as Friday. We have reservation for a Thursday in mid May.

[robyn]

I'm glad that meal at Le Meurice was for 3 - not 1. I was starting to get worried (I know prices are high - but I didn't think that high!).

I tend to look at restaurant websites to get general information about the style/type of food and price information. But since I like seasonal cuisine - the exact menus usually aren't that useful (I won't get what they're serving now in spring veggie season in May when I'm in Paris in October - which is fall veggie and game season).

FWIW - we have a Delta flight from Atlanta to Paris at 3:30 pm in October. You had me worried - and I checked. It's still a valid flight. If I were 200 miles from Atlanta (like you are) - I'd simply drive there in the morning and take the flight. Not for a month (parking would probably cost a fortune) - but for shorter trips. Sometimes we drive to Orlando (about 100 miles) if we can catch a non-stop international flight from there.

With all this talk of various restaurants - I am curious. Doesn't anyone just go to Paris these days and poke around - and try a place - especially for lunch? I'm not talking really high end - or low end either - just places in the middle. A nice sit down lunch. We tend to do that a lot in larger "walking cities". Is dining so uneven in Paris these days that I have to worry about taking "pot luck"? Or is it simply so expensive that people don't want to take chances? Robyn

[grace3]

I'm glad that meal at Le Meurice was for 3 - not 1.  I was starting to get worried (I know prices are high - but I didn't think that high!).

I tend to look at restaurant websites to get general information about the style/type of food and price information.  But since I like seasonal cuisine - the exact menus usually aren't that useful (I won't get what they're serving now in spring veggie season in May when I'm in Paris in October - which is fall veggie and game season).

FWIW - we have a Delta flight from Atlanta to Paris at 3:30 pm in October.  You had me worried - and I checked.  It's still a valid flight.  If I were 200 miles from Atlanta (like you are) - I'd simply drive there in the morning and take the flight.  Not for a month (parking would probably cost a fortune) - but for shorter trips.  Sometimes we drive to Orlando (about 100 miles) if we can catch a non-stop international flight from there.

With all this talk of various restaurants - I am curious.  Doesn't anyone just go to Paris these days and poke around - and try a place - especially for lunch?  I'm not talking really high end - or low end either - just places in the middle.  A nice sit down lunch.  We tend to do that a lot in larger "walking cities".  Is dining so uneven in Paris these days that I have to worry about taking "pot luck"?  Or is it simply so expensive that people don't want to take chances?  Robyn

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Robyn...The Delta/Air France flights don't change...they stay pretty stable. It's the other flights that come and go with Delta.

Dining..lunch could be easier than dinner to just drop in. It depends on the place and the time of the year. Now, the Meurice bar, I have not had a problem. I also like l'Obelisque at the the Crillon. I never hear anyone else talking about it one way or the other. I like the atmosphere and the restaurant. I always have made reservations. It is possible that you could drop in. There is a great oyster place, Huitre Regis...seats about 12 people..my experience is that you better get there when they open at 11:30. I think you can make reservations. If you want to be certain, I would call ahead...I recently dropped in to a little restaurant in the 7th for dinner..Chez Pierrot..good little spot. My last evening in Paris I dropped in to Le P'tit Trouquet..it was early..she said she could take me at that time, but had reservations the rest of the evening..was OK with me..

[grace3]

I'm glad that meal at Le Meurice was for 3 - not 1.  I was starting to get worried (I know prices are high - but I didn't think that high!).

I tend to look at restaurant websites to get general information about the style/type of food and price information.  But since I like seasonal cuisine - the exact menus usually aren't that useful (I won't get what they're serving now in spring veggie season in May when I'm in Paris in October - which is fall veggie and game season).

FWIW - we have a Delta flight from Atlanta to Paris at 3:30 pm in October.  You had me worried - and I checked.  It's still a valid flight.  If I were 200 miles from Atlanta (like you are) - I'd simply drive there in the morning and take the flight.  Not for a month (parking would probably cost a fortune) - but for shorter trips.  Sometimes we drive to Orlando (about 100 miles) if we can catch a non-stop international flight from there.

With all this talk of various restaurants - I am curious.  Doesn't anyone just go to Paris these days and poke around - and try a place - especially for lunch?  I'm not talking really high end - or low end either - just places in the middle.  A nice sit down lunch.  We tend to do that a lot in larger "walking cities".  Is dining so uneven in Paris these days that I have to worry about taking "pot luck"?  Or is it simply so expensive that people don't want to take chances?  Robyn

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Robyn...The Delta/Air France flights don't change...they stay pretty stable. It's the other flights that come and go with Delta.

Dining..lunch could be easier than dinner to just drop in. It depends on the place and the time of the year. Now, the Meurice bar, I have not had a problem. I also like l'Obelisque at the the Crillon. I never hear anyone else talking about it one way or the other. I like the atmosphere and the restaurant. I always have made reservations. It is possible that you could drop in. There is a great oyster place, Huitre Regis...seats about 12 people..my experience is that you better get there when they open at 11:30. I think you can make reservations. If you want to be certain, I would call ahead...I recently dropped in to a little restaurant in the 7th for dinner..Chez Pierrot..good little spot. My last evening in Paris I dropped in to Le P'tit Trouquet..it was early..she said she could take me at that time, but had reservations the rest of the evening..was OK with me..

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An addition...The white asparagus and strawberries are really in season..every place served both...the strawberries there melt in your mouth..not like ours. The white asparagus is so good....everything is seasonal. Many of the wesbsites do have very current menus listed. You might take a look as it gets nearer to your trip.

[Margaret Pilgrim]

I am glad to hear others agree with me. I really didn't expect anything "great" in going there, but I have heard many, many times people saying to go there for their duck with olives!

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Hint: Check Patricia Wells' Bistrot Cooking from your local public library and find the quite acceptable recipe for "Canard aux Olives Chez Allard". It really is a rather good dish, not difficult to make at home and you won't have to suffer the tourist ambiance or prices of Allard.

[Carlsbad]

Grace3, How did you like Les Clos de Gourmets?

We tried something different last summer when we flew from LAX to Paris. We rented a car and drove the 95 miles to the airport, and did the same thing coming home. It was much cheaper than parking for the entire trip and much quicker than waiting for a connecting flight to San Diego and then driving home from there.

[grace3]

Carlsbad,

Good idea re renting the car. I would do that if ATL were that close to Asheville.

Le Clos des Gourmet is a very good restaurant. A fine reputation for lunch or dinner. This trip I was there for both. I have been there several times before. Do get reservations for dinner. I think you will enjoy it.

Joan

[grace3]

RE: Patricia Wells Duck with olives.....yes, I think without the Allard, that there would be a great improvement!

Also, glad to hear that Daniel Rose has added another day for lunch. Must be for the summer season. Will see how long he keeps that into the fall. I will be there from 9/11 - 10/10.

Joan

[dlc]

I heartily agree with dining at Clos de Gourmets. We were in Paris for a couple of weeks in late Jan. and early Feb. and had both lunch and dinner there. Another great choice is the area (and open for lunch and dinner on Sun.) is La Cuisine.

We had both a Thurs and Friday luch at Spring during our stay so I think Daniel is doing it on a semi-permanent basis

[grace3]

Glad to hear your thoughts on La Cuisine. I have it on my list for Sept/Oct stay.

I will be checking in with Daniel Rose about his schedule for that time. I have not been for dinner, so must get a reservation for one evening.

I have lucked out to be in a ParisPerfect place that is being completely redone, on the 8th (US) floor on ave de la Motte Picquet for a month...it has spectacular views of Paris! Florimond is very close to me. Will have to check out some of the others that popped up on Mappy...perhaps some of you know them: Le Soleil, Lei, Auberge l'Bressange, Chez les Anges, Petrossian and La Cuisine. Not far to another little place that I had found, Chez Pierrot. Cafe de l'Esplanade can perhaps be my breakfast stop. Not that far from all the St. Dominique ones that I am familiar with.

Sounds fun...................

[kiliki]

The Constant restaurants are all good..Les Cocottes, Cafe Constant, Violon d'Ingres, and Fables.

I will be in Paris soon and I was feeling a bit sheepish that I'm planning on eating at all of these restaurants (I've loved Fables and the cafe on previous visits)...I'm glad to read I'm not the only one that does that!

I have lucked out to be in a ParisPerfect place that is being completely redone, on the 8th (US) floor on ave de la Motte Picquet for a month...

Which apartment is it? We stayed with Paris Perfect on our honeymoon and found the apartment just wonderful.