Traditional hi-fat dishes in Paris

[John Whiting]

My lo-carb, hi-fat/protein diet continues successfully and delightfully, with about fifteen pounds off so far. From October 1st I'll be in Paris for a few days. Can lovers of traditional French fare recommend any old-fashioned bistros where they load their dishes with butter and cream as if they were going out of fashion? (Which, alas, they have.) I'm happy to start with foie-gras, minus the toast. Carb-based dishes such as cassoulet are, or course, off limits, but I can enthusiastically tackle fat-laden knuckles of lamb, or meat/fish dishes swimming in calorific sauces, so long as they're not thickened with flour. No bread or potatoes, but that's easily accomplished. And no deserts, but I can dispose of a generous quantity of cheese.

All wicked suggestions gratefully received.

[jaybee]

La Grille, on Faubourg Poissonniere (10th), serve the best beurre blanc sauce over grilled turbot. The place is delightfully authentically eccentrically old fashioned.

tel. 01 47 70 89 73

Chez Maitre Paul serve the best poulet vin jaune avec morilles you could ask for.

Not to be missed. 12 rue Monsieur Prince (6th)

tel 01 43 54 74 59

The civet de lievre a la royale at A Souusceyrac is heavenly, and it is game season soon.

35 rue Faidherbe (11th)

Tel 01 43 71 65 30

These are three of my favorite meals in Paris and they fit the low carb hi-fat bill.

[robert brown]

I ran into Eli Zabar in front of his store yesterday. He mentioned a bistro on Boulevard Hausmann that also owned, or was next to, a wine store. The name was close to "Petrossian", but wasn't. He likes it a lot and said they serve big portions of meat. Does it ring a bell, anyone?

[John Whiting]

Some wonderful suggestions. Maitre Paul I'm already familiar with; I've had the divine poulet and may go back again. Civet de lievre royale -- yes indeed! Had it last summer at le petit Marguery and Chez Gramond, and each was better than the other!

I hope the elusive Armenian bistro materializes. Can't find anything close in Time Out, Michelin or GaultMillau.

jaybee, do you remember the divine beurre blanc years ago at Mere Michel? Perhaps that's so long before your time as to be insulting, in which case my apologies.

[jaybee]

jaybee, do you remember the divine beurre blanc years ago at Mere Michel? Perhaps that's so long before your time as to be insulting, in which case my apologies.

No apology necessary. I've come to regard my age as patina. But no, I don't know Mere Michel. I was introduced to this sauce by Yves Culliers at La Grille and I've never had better. For what their opinion is worth, in 1985, Gault-Millau called it the "best beurre blanc sauce in all of Paris, possibly France!) Try the civet at Sousceyrac next. It is good enough to make you cry. BTW, the boef bourguinon at La Grille is nothing to sneeze at either. Of course now that game season is in, you can feast on wild boar stews, etc.

You might consider a dish of tabliers de sapeur at Moissonnier or Chez Paul.

Foies gras at L'Ami Louie

Confit de Canard at La Fontaine de Mars

Tripes at La Tour de Monthlerie

or a heaping Choucroute royale at your favorite Alsatian place.

[pirate]

The buerre blanc at Mere Michel was excellent in 1982 or 1983. The following year the restaurant declined precipitously.

[John Whiting]

The buerre blanc at Mere Michel was excellent in 1982 or 1983. The following year the restaurant declined precipitously.

I've responded to this once and it disappeared. I'll try again.

I'm not surprised. My first experience of Ma Mere Michel dates from around 1968, when my wife and I were led there by Waverley Root's Paris Dining Guide. Further visits over the next few years; then a long gap, by which time it had disappeared.

Jaybee, your further suggestions may well fill up my entire time in Paris. One of eGullet's inimitable advantages is that one gets to know the tastes of particular people in the precise areas of one's personal interests. For this visit, you will be Virgil to my Dante.

Edit: Tripe at Chez Denise! I once distinguished myself by polishing off the entire turine that was brought to my table. The waiters gave me a round of applause.

[jaybee]

Ah, well, I lost my Virgility long ago, but with an assist from memory and

my bonne-frere's bistro guide book, I'm pleased to feast vicariously with you.

[John Whiting]

. . .  I lost my Virgility . . .

That's very witty!

Edit:

"If the rythym section ain't makin' it, go for yourself."_Ben Webster

That echos Lenny Tristano's laconic remark: "The trouble with drummers is, they can't keep time."

[Bux]

If I'm not mistaken, tablier de sapeur is covered with bread crumbs and fried. That would be a no-no for the carb averse. That's a dish I would not have looked for in Paris. Thanks for the recommendation of where to get it. I missed it in Lyon last time.

I have a second hand recommendation for lievre a la royale. It's au Dauphin, 167 rue St.-Honore in the first arrondissement. I've had the cassoulet (which is not germane to this thread) here, which was good and my wife had the pork cheeks which she said were incredible.

I'd be thinking of some good boudin noir myself as the French tend not to add filler to blood pudding. On the other hand I'd need some apple (of the tree or "of the earth") to cut the richenss when eating a rich French boudin. (That's "pommes" or "pommes de terre" for the slow.)

John, I guess we will not be getting a report on Pierre Herme's latest creations from you.

[John Whiting]

John, I guess we will not be getting a report on Pierre Herme's latest creations from you.

Even if I had them I wouldn't dare report on them!

[Bux]

If nobody knows it won't hurt, huh. My wife tells me that dsserts don't count if they're eaten off of someone else's plate.

[Margaret Pilgrim]

Robert Brown wrote, "I ran into Eli Zabar in front of his store yesterday. He mentioned a bistro on Boulevard Hausmann that also owned, or was next to, a wine store. The name was close to 'Petrossian', but wasn't. He likes it a lot and said they serve big portions of meat. Does it ring a bell, anyone?"

Robert, while doing my "homework" I came across the Caves Petrissans at 30bis avenue Niel in the 17th. It's noted for its veal tenderloin (best in Paris?), Salers' faux-filet and tele de veau, as well as classic daily specials. One walks through the Cave and bar to reach the clublike dining room. Might this be your mystery restaurant, albeit on Niel rather than Haussman?

[mogsob]

John, there is no question that you should book your meal at D'Chez Eau. But, then again, you know all about D'Chez Eau (I've seen your website).

[John Whiting]

. . . you should book your meal at D'Chez Eau.

Sez You!

Margaret, you've struck gold! I'll be there with pick and pan.

[mrsqft]

I have been on a low carb diet for three years.. During this time I have been to Paris 5 times. I find it very easy to stay on the diet since flour thickened sauces are a thing of the past. I have not found a restaurant that I could not find something wonderful to eat. I do watch my wine intake but that's probably not a bad thing.

[John Whiting]

You're quite right -- it's very easy to stick to the hi-fat lo-carb diet in Paris. My enquiry was prompted by a desire to search out those temples of hi-calory excess which in the past I've denied myself. Now, if only someone would come up with the perfect beanless cassoulet . . .

On the wine front, I too try to limit my intake. On my own, I rarely get through more than a bottle.

[Bux]

John, it's clear you don't need to start your day with a croissant and finish dinner with dessert. Furthermore, while I can often take or leave rice and pasta in France, I've hardly met a potato that wasn't worthy of an affair in France. My idea of a low carb lunch is a salad and a crepe in lieu of the two crepes I would have had.

I wish you luck.

[Steve Plotnicki]

I like Caves Pettrisans even though I think the food is very simple. The gimmick with the wine store is good as well. Not only do they have an extensive list of wine printed on the menu, but you can order anything from the shops carte for additional $20 euros I think.

If you want fat for a meal, go to that ham shop on rue Cler. I forget the name. It's like a picnic waiting to go with every single sausage and ham presliced. You can buy one or two slices of a dozen odd sausages and hams. And Anee-Marie Cantin is around the corner, and Poujerain not too far away. Talk about fat.

[Bux]

John, Plotnicki's given you the best advice--cheese. What you want is a picnic from Cantin, or maybe just a list of bistrots with great cheese selecitions. A picnic without bread of course. Poujaurin is off limts however.

[Louisa Chu]

The ham shop/charcuterie is Davoli, 34 Rue Cler.

And actually it's Marie-Anne Cantin. I keep making that mistake myself - until I see her delivery trucks parked in the neighborhood. She's around the corner at 12 rue Champ de Mars.

We just had dinner a couple of weekends ago at the venerable Restaurant Benoit in the 4th. The meal was so rich in fat that we immediately suffered from what I think was once delicately referred to as consumption. We started with a thick slice of ham rolled around foie gras and champignons sauvages sauteed and generously finished in butter. And then pigeon served with a tiny chou filled with epinards not as much sauteed but I think soaked in butter. And rabbit with more of those buttery mushrooms. Both plats were plated with just jus. My poor sister never made it to dessert and I only had a polite bite of the Sainte-Eve aux fraises.

[Margaret Pilgrim]

The meal was so rich in fat that we immediately suffered from what I think was once delicately referred to as consumption.

I believe the phrase you're looking for is "crise de foie", which is precisely what it sounds like! The French recommend several days of nothing but mineral water.

[Steve Plotnicki]

Loufood - Do you live in that neighborhood?

[Gavin Jones]

The meal was so rich in fat that we immediately suffered from what I think was once delicately referred to as consumption.

I think you'll find that's conspicuous consumption.

[StephenT]

The meal was so rich in fat that we immediately suffered from what I think was once delicately referred to as consumption.

You can contract tuberculosis by eating rich food now?