Il Vino in the 7th – a unique experience

[John Talbott]

6.5 The name says it all; wine, wine, wine

Il Vino, 13, bvd de la Tour Maubourg in the 7th, 01.44.11.72.00, closed weekends but open 7/7 starting next December, with three menus at 50 - 3 courses, 75 - 4 courses (down from 100 at its opening) and 1000 € - 5 courses and top-of-the-line wine, a la carte 40-70 €. Some may recall that I dropped by/in the day of its press opening and was staggered by the number of glasses per table and impressed by the prices, but awaited word from the big boys before proceeding. They accommodated me; Rubin with ¾, Berger with 4/5 so we went today (reservations are a necessity unless you prefer bar stools). The place is configured like when it was Chamarré except for a huge visible wine cellar. The menu consists of a list of wines on the left page and which course (entrée, main, cheese, dessert) they go with) and on the right are the three menus, the 1000 and 50 listing the wines poured that day (today’s were different from those listed two weeks ago). I chose the 75 menu for which they list no wines or dishes; simply asking you if there’s any food you don’t like – being unable to think of none, I replied, just hamburgers, which got a laugh and the point across, I think. The first wine (and they pour the wine before they deliver the food – their point comes across clearly – it’s the wine, stupid!) was a South African Constantini Uitsig Sauvignon Blanc, lovely with the warm escabeche of fresh sardines that was terrific. Then they poured a Penfield Connawara Shiraz that was the right gutsy accompaniment to the magret of duck with a peppery (peppercorns) wine sauce, celeriac puree and pear tarte. Then I went on to have a Chateau Chillon that at first I thought was so maderizy that it would be too much vin jaune, but again it suited the 3-year old Conté well. Finally they poured me a Cap Corse Muscat with an intricate chocolate cylinder filled with creamy goodness, surrounded by roasted banana slices and topped with a hot chocolate sauce. Problems: only one, they served my cheese and Colette's dessert at the same time and wanted to serve her coffee while I had dessert (which is not strange in the US but it was a first in France.) The bill, no bottled water, 2 menus (one 50, one 75) and 2 coffees = 135 €. Nothing comp’d (they recognized neither me nor a really famous food critic).

Should one go? Sure, why not? Once. It is unique.

Colette had the 50 menu and the following is her report:

“1- A St Veran with spaghetti topped with fresh heirloom tomatoes - wine a bit “thin”, the pasta OK, but not what I expected at this snazzy new “in” restaurant.

2 – A Cotes de Rhone with lamb and vegetables – a rich, delicious stew (7 hr lamb with veggies added later), reminiscent of something Julia Child would have made for a Sunday lunch with friends and family. The wine did not seem “big” enough to go with the dish, I would have preferred the Shiraz.

3 – A Muscato d’Asti with a “crumble” of exotic fruits, mango and kiwi – the wine was lovely, but the dessert was “so what” – nothing particularly special.

I thought the décor was handsome, including deep wine colored calla lilies in a tall glass vase that stood near our table. Initially there was a selection of the most intrusive music playing, but happily it was turned off as the restaurant filled.

I have not put this restaurant on my “we must go back” list. The price/quality/inventiveness ratio was just not “there” for me.”

[pierre45]

WEll John ,my old friend i thought I would be 1st to review this restaurant as i had read the review at le figaroscope and was planning to go there next thur.Actually i will be sitting at the counter ,what do you think? Anyhow ,perhaps going a la carte and choosing the wine seems a better option.Do you agree?

[John Talbott]

WEll John ,my old friend i thought I would be 1st to review this restaurant as i had read the review at le figaroscope and was planning to go there next thur.Actually i will be sitting at the counter ,what do you think? Anyhow ,perhaps going a la carte and choosing the wine seems a better option.Do you agree?

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I knew you'd be going, old pal, so I had to beat you out.

I hate sitting at counters, even at Les Cocottes or l'Atelier de JR. I guess the good thing is you can talk more to the pourers and they have this incredible array of open bottles there, but........

As for a la carte, I dunno, I guess since you're more of a wine guy than I, you could navigate the shoals and reefs better, but I was happy to throw myself on the mercy of the head guy. (By the way, for members who do not speak 7 tongues flawlessly, as does Pierre, the head guy offered to do the food in English or French; snob that I am, I chose French but I heard his English and it's fine).

But read Colette's comments again, she was very blah about the experience.

Have fun and please report back.

[pierre45]

I had dinner at Il vino a few nights ago.

I sat at the counter and told them that I wanted only french wines.The system is as john described.You choose the various courses based on the wine ,one has no idea what will be offered as food.At dinner the choice is a la carte or 5 course /wine for 100 euros.I opted for the latter.

The 1st was pasta with clams served with reisling (alsacian).DEliceuus dish, and the sweet/tartness of the wine went very well.

The 2d dish was sauted cepes accopanied with a muscat from alsace.Again an excellent pairing and a salty and sweet interplay.The main was crisply fried fish

served with Pommard 1e cru.An excellent match .the wine was elegant and multilayered.THe cheese dish was a small stilton and the wine sweet jurancon,again quite nice and finally the dessert came with sweet red wine.

The whole experience was enjoyable and fun ,specially since i asked to guess the wines.I guessed 3 out of 5.So they shook my hand.

THis place is interesting for those who truly enjoy wine,as the matching is excellent.Basically one is paying around 45 euros for food and it equals that of a very good bistot . Wine is costing around 11 euros a glass on average ,for a total of 55 euros.

[ulterior epicure]

There is a nice article about Il Vino in today's Wall Street Journal.

Has anyone been, recently?

[goofy md]

For those of you who have been, Is the la cart by the glass or bottle? I'm assuming you order a glass of wine and they pair up the food, or is the only way to get multiple different wine to do one of the menus?

[John Talbott]

For those of you who have been, Is the la cart by the glass or bottle?  I'm assuming you order a glass of wine and they pair up the food, or is the only way to get multiple different wine to do one of the menus?

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You sort of put yourself in their hands dependoing on which menu you choose; one friend had them "surprise" him by pouring the wines and letting him guess.