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TN: Eating and drinking again


Florida Jim

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White pizza with spinach and artichoke hearts:

2004 Álvaro Castro, Vinho Tinto Dão:

Made, unfortified, with port grapes this smells of warm dark fruit and smoke; tastes of sweet fruit, with good grip and a smooth texture; and has a medium finish. I liked this wine a lot last year but it seems a bit simple and confected this time. 13% alcohol, imported by Eric Solomon and about $12; I won’t buy it again.

I chose it because ‘anything goes with pizza’ and I wanted to try it. It was okay but nothing special as the sweetness seemed to jump out with the pizza and neither really made a difference in the other.

I’m starting to think that Portuguese table wines made with port grapes have to be done very carefully because these grapes tend come across sweet. Hence, it is important to get the wine very dry and keep it that way; this one didn’t make the cut, for me.

The same pizza as above as leftovers:

2005 Pieropan, Soave Classico:

Apple, grapefruit and sassafras nose; angular on the palate with flavors that follow the nose, excellent acidity and good sustain. This needs a little time in the cellar to round out but has all the pieces and very nice balance.

12% alcohol, imported by Empson and about $17; I’d buy it again.

I chose it based on heritage. It was an excellent match, especially with the artichoke hearts and spinach as its complexity came out with those flavors and the acidity of the wine cut the cheese well. Each was made better by the other.

Rice noodles with stir-fried veggies and tofu, and some chopped almonds:

2004 Freie Weingärtner, Grüner Veltliner:

Aromatically reticent; clean and fresh in the mouth with citrus, vegetable and floral notes, lightweight with medium length. Not much here but refreshing to quaff. 12% alcohol, screw cap, imported by Vin Davino and about $9; I won’t buy it again.

However, with the dish it married well as both the wine and food delivered clean and complimentary flavors.

Also tasted, was the 2005 J.J. Christoffel, Riesling Kabinett Erdener Treppchen: which had been open but in the fridge for over a week. The wine was still sound and giving but it was too sweet for the food and overpowered the delicacy of the dish. 9% alcohol, imported by M. Skurnik, screw cap and price unknown; I wouldn’t buy it.

Best, Jim

www.CowanCellars.com

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