The mystery of Italian wine lists

[Wilfrid]

I am reasonably confident of finding my way around French, American, Australian and even Spanish wine lists. I always struggle with my bearings, however, when it comes to Italian lists.

I know a Barolo from a Chianti and a Barbaresco from a Dolcetto. But I lose all orientation when it comes to the unclassified Vinos de Tavola. I am sure that a lot of the best drinking is to be found among such wines, and I have had some lucky picks. But I don't know what to do other than pick a price range, point my finger and hope (or rely on the sommelier).

Is there any way to find ones way around such wines other than trying to memorize the names? Any other tips for navigating Italian wine lists would be appreciated too.

[David Lynch]

I'm afraid direct experience will have to be your guide when it comes to Vini da Tavola. One thing I will say is that, with "super-Tuscans," for example, price is actually a pretty good guide as to what you're going to get. Usually when people order these wines they're looking for a particular grape variety (sangiovese, cabernet, syrah, whatever) and essentially order by varietal, which is not exactly traditional Italian.

As for other navigating Italian lists in general, it will come as your knowledge of the wines increases. We, for example, organize our list by region. Unless you know that sangiovese is the principal grape in Chianti, you're not going to learn that from the list (I would assume the same of French and Spanish lists). We try to help out with grapes here and there, but what you've got is 21 wine regions to tackle--and in each there are some key grapes/flavors to know. It's not as daunting a task as it seems--especially with a book like "Vino Italiano" in hand.

Other wine list tips:

1) Look to the middle of the price scale for value; cheapest wines are always the ones marked up most

2) Use the sommelier! Engage them, make them work!

3) Look for lesser-known regions/wines; work the fringes