TN: Good wines

[Florida Jim]

2004 Dom. André et Mireille Tissot, Arbois sans soufre:

A cherry red, translucent poulsard with lots of citrus tang, stony accents and an overall freshness that is quite remarkable; develops more breadth and depth in the glass yet remains focused. Mostly red fruits and earth tones but a real sense of place, too. 13.5% alcohol, imported by Potomac Selections and about $24; more than worth it.

2003 Jacques Puffeney, Arbois:

Same grape, entirely different rendition; opaque in color, tannic and chunky in the mouth, a touch of raisin among much darker fruit, huge concentration – a beast compared to Tissot’s beauty. Nonetheless, the elements are in balance, it smoothes out in the glass, the Arbois character is evident and it’s very long. I think this shows the vintage as well as the AOC can without being lost to it. 13.5% alcohol, imported by Rosenthal and about $29; I’d buy it again.

(Aside: The ouillé wines of the Jura are fast becoming my favorites and these two wines are examples of why, although, both could use a little time in the cellar (the Puffeney requires it), they are flavorful, distinctive, soil driven and have real character. I’d drink the Tissot with lighter fare and suspect the Puffeney may age into something altogether atypical for the grape. Both are delicious.)

2000 R. & V. Dauvissat, Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos:

Candied lemon is the predominant aroma and flavor but there’s a little complexity and good depth on the palate as well as excellent viscosity and persistence. Absolutely no hint of oxidation anywhere and little secondary development so I think this has another several years in the cellar and could use it. About $45 on release; I’d buy a stack of it at that price.

(Enjoyed with seared Halibut this was a perfect match.)

2005 Chignard, Fleurie Les Moriers:

Textbook Fleurie but starting to close down; if allowed to open in the glass its full of floral, red fruit and spice notes with good balance and texture but a quick sip and you’d think it was either too tight to drink or was carrying too much CO2. Best to give this a little time in the cellar. About $21; I’d buy it again.

(Accompanied pasta with chanterelles; lovely, indeed.)

Best, Jim