Bon Appetit November 2003 – The Thanksgiving Issue
Now this is why I subscribe to Bon Appetit...Alton Brown, Mark Bittman, Jean Anderson and Calvin Trillin all in one issue!
Starters (product placement):
-Short Q&A with Mary Risley, founder of Tante Marie’s Cooking School in San Francisco.
-Short article on how Booze is the new Spa Treatment – vinotherapy, champagne facials and Rum Molasses Waterfall hair treatment.
-A brief look at some new knife storage being offered (pics included): Ironwood Gourmet’s magnetic knife bar, NY Chef Daniel Boulud’s sleek black knife block (for the stainless steel kitchen) and a J.A. Henckels wooden knife tray for your kitchen drawer (fits 12 knives and a steel).
-New “party” books: “America Entertains: A Year of Imaginative Parties” by David Tutera, $35 - “Flirtini: Cocktail Parties for Mixing and Mingling” by Allana Baroni $17 - “Russel Wright’s Menu Cookbook: A Guide to Easier Entertaining” by Ann Wright and Mindy Heiferling, $30
-Andrew Knowlton says Grand Central Station is 90 years old this year and features over 70 stores and restaurants. Andrew points out some of his favorites.
R.S.V.P. – Favorite Restaurant Recipes
“Blue-Cheese-Crusted Steaks with Wine Sauce” – American Grill in Minnetonka
“Carrot-Coconut Cupcakes with Cream Cheese Frosting” – Abigail’s Hotel in Victoria, British Columbia
“Chorizo-Saffron Risotto with Sautéed Shrimp and Tomato-Saffron Vinaigrette”
“Tomato-Saffron Vinaigrette” – Pastis in Los Angeles
“White and Dark Chocolate Bread Pudding with Irish Cream Sauce” – Carmen Anthony Steakhouse in Waterbury, Connecticut
“Salmon with Maple-Thyme Glaze” – Henrietta’s Table in Cambridge, Mass.
Cooking Class – Thanksgiving Starts Here…with Alton Brown
The article comes across just like his show on the FoodNetwork. He maps out the Primary Goal, the Primary Challenge, Strategies, Good Bird Hunting, Breaking the Ice (thawing), Time to Brine and the Final Countdown. Some brief quotes from the article:
“You don’t have to do the quick thaw in the tub, but it sure makes things easier.”
“Rub the butter into the turkey as if you were a masseuse on a mission.”
“…in the end, isn’t Thanksgiving really about the sandwiches?’
Profiles in Cooking – The Accidental Foodie by Ed Levine
Lunch with food author Calvin Trillin, searching for good food in NYC’s Chinatown. It’s an overview of Calvin’s writing career and how he grew tired of food (“I was tired of explaining to people that I really didn’t know or care about the name of second-best French restaurant in Chicago.”) and how he got back into the genre. The article ends with the two-for-two-bucks “greens sandwich” with a mysterious horseradish-like condiment at the corner of East Broadway and Chrystie.
Entertaining Made Easy – The Remains of the Day by Rozanne Gold
Are you wondering what to do with the Thanksgiving leftovers? How about some paella? Here are some suggestions:
“Stuffing-Stuffed Mushrooms”, “Marinated Vegetables with Garlic & Thyme”, “Spicy Turkey Paella”, “Cranberry-Citrus Sorbet”, plus 5 soup suggestions (not recipes) for that leftover turkey carcass.
Tools of the Trade – Pieces for Pie: All the Gear You Need to Make Pastries Like a Pro by Dorie Greenspan
Suggestions on baking tools to help make your holiday goodies even better:
Matfer’s Nylon Rolling Pin (www.cutleryandmore.com ; $60), Flour Duster by Best Manufacturers (www.cooking.com ; $8), “crust cheaters” Perfect-a-Crust Molds (www.betabake.com ; $9) and Pie Birds (to allow steam to escape from the baking pies).
Traveling With Taste – Jean Anderson searches for pottery in the Southern U.S.
The search begins at the new North Carolina Pottery Center and wends it way through LDDK Pottery, Jugtown (no jokes please!), Cady Clay Works, Hickory Hill Pottery, Westmoore Pottery, Ben Owen Pottery, Cole’s Pottery, W. M. Hewitt’s and ending at the Goathouse Gallery in Pittsboro, N.C.
Did you know there are clay angel food cake pans? Who knew? Jean also offers some suggestions as to where to stay while in North Carolina as well as naming local 5 restaurants not to miss.
People and Places – Operation Deep-Fried Turkey by Jinx and Jeff Morgan
If you’re thinking of deep frying a Thanksgiving turkey, Jinx and Jeff offer a recap of their first attempt and suggest some do’s & don’ts. They also provide a 2 sources for ordering your own deep frying kit and other accessories as well as a source for buying marinades for injecting.
Wine & Spirits – Taste Panel Report by Anthony Dias Blue
Reviews the Zoom Corkscrew (www.wineenthusiast.com ; $25), notes a slew of wines coming from the Red Mountain area of Washington and suggests some imported Czech beers to try.
Top 10 Wines for November:
Bodega Norton – 2002 Sauvignon Blanc, Mendoza, Argentina ($8)
Devil’s Lair – 2001 Fifth Leg Red Wine-Vin Rouge, Margaret River, Australia ($12)
Mount Riley – 2002 Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand ($15)
Rieflé - 2001 Tokay-Pinot Gris, Alsace, France ($15)
Raymond – 2001 Chardonnay Reserve, Napa Valley ($16)
Bottega Vinaia – 2001 Lagrein, Trentino, Italy ($21)
Charles Creek Vineyard – 2001 Merlot, Miradero ($22)
Melville – 2001 Syrah, Estate, Santa Rita Hills ($24)
Robledo – 2000 Chardonnay, Les Carneros ($25)
Spring Mountain Vineyard – 2000 Estate, Spring Mountain District, Napa ($50)
Wine & Spirits – The Elegant Aperitif by Mark Bittman
Mark ventures into the world of pre-dinner drinks and offers a guide to sipping in style. He looks at Various Vermouths, Licorice Liquors, Sherries & Ports and obscure aperitifs like Averna (containing fermented plums).
In a sidebar, he makes some suggestions on what to nibble on while drinking the aperitifs.
Bon Vivant – What’s new, what’s hot, what’s good
Flatware from designer Adam Tihany, napkin rings (with sources), delicately patterned “Beekman” glasses by Thomas O’Brien for Salton at Home, “Astor” ice bucket and “Taylor” tongs by Calvin Klein, “Maria” dinnerware by Euro Ceramica, Utensil caddy by Ironwood Gourmet with “Bolero” flatware by Crate & Barrel and a serious “Olivier” carving set by Mundial.
Good Grips offers a new mandoline with nonslip feet, isinorthamerica.com offers a heat-resistant baster, Kaiser Bakeware makes a square springform pan and Amco Houseworks sells a double timer that keeps track of two dishes.
Going Out – Brand New in Boston by Rand Richards Cooper
A look at the Boston Restaurant scene. Caffé Umbra (owned by Chef Laura Brennan), Carmen, Peking Tom’s Longtang Lounge (ice cream spring rolls?), Upstairs on the Square, and Excelsior (the latest project of Lydia Shire – Biba)
Top Tables – The Restaurant Reporter: Where to go Now by Tanya Wenman Steel
Los Angeles - Chef Joachim Spilchal at the Walt Disney’s Concert Hall Cafe
Florida - Side bar of some places not to miss
Paris – Chef Alain Solivéres at Taillevent, Chef Éric Briffard at Les Élysées du Verent, Chef Alain Ducasse’s latest venture Aux Lyonnais, Chef Joël Robuchon at L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon
Canadian Rockies – Executive Chef Daniel Buss at the Banffshire Club in the Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel, Chef Andrew Carine at Buffalo Mountain Lodge, Executive Chef Domíníque Guyot at the Fairview Dining Room in the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise, Chef Wolfgang Vogt at the Post Hotel (Lake Louise)
Dining out for Thanksgiving? Here are some suggestions:
Boston – Chef Frank McClelland at L’Espalier
New York – Chef Peter Hoffman at Savoy
Miami – Chef Allen Susser at Chef Allen’s
Chicago – Chef Jonathon Harootunian at Courtright’s
Dallas – Chef Al Heivari at The Old Warsaw
Seattle – Chef Kerry Sear at Cascadia
San Francisco – Chef Melissa Perello at Charles Nob Hill
Thanksgiving Menu Guide
“Classic Charm” with recipes by James Beard Award winning chefs Michael Smith & Debbie Gold
“Marinated Cauliflower, Olive and Arugula Salad”, “Roast Turkey with Prosciutto-Hazelnut Crust”, “Italian Sausage and Parmesan Cheese Stuffing”, “Creamed Corn Gratin with Fried Onion Rings and Bacon”, “Mashed Potatoes with Watercress and Green Onions”, “Pickled Red Onions and Cranberries”, “Herbed Roasted Winter Vegetables”, “Lima Beans with Ham”, “Mascarpone Cheesecake with Quince Compote”, “Quince Compote”
“Modern Style” by Susan Simon
“Warm Goat Cheese Toasts with Rosemary, Walnuts and Honey”, “Curried Parsnip Soup with Shredded Apples”, “Roast Turkey with Pomegranate Glaze”, “Bread Dressing with Dried Apricots, Pistachios and Mint”, “Cranberry-Port Gelatin with Crystallized Ginger and Celery”, “Sweet-and-Sour Radicchio”, “Balsamic-Roasted Acorn Squash with Hot Chiles and Honey”, “Potato and Broccoli Croquettes”, “Autumn Trifle with Roasted Apples, Pears and Pumpkin-Caramel Sauce”
“Over the River and Through the Woods” by Randi Danforth and Malachy Duffy
“Herb-and-Garlic Roasted Turkey with Giblet Gravy”, “Brown Turkey Stock”, “Double Sausage Stuffing”, “Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Balsamic Vinegar and Pancetta”, “Sweet Potato Brûlée”, “Popovers with Sage Butter”, “Maple-Pecan Pie”, “Ginger Cake with Caramelized Pears” and a “bonus” recipe “Raisin-Nut Breakfast Rings”
“The Great Do-Ahead Feast” by Jeanne Thiel Kelley
“Endive with Smoked Trout and Herbed Cream Cheese”, “Succotash Soup with Black Pepper Croutons”, “Herb-Roasted Turkey with Apple Cider Gravy” (Cover Recipe), “”Apple, Celery and Smoked Ham Stuffing”, “Cranberry Sauce with Marmalade and Cinnamon (Cover Recipe), “Mashed Potatoes with Sage and White Cheddar Cheese”, “Creamed Mushrooms, Onion, and Brussels Sprouts”, “Roasted Yams with Citrus and Coriander Butter”, “Caramel-Coated Pumpkin Flan”, “Frosted Grapes”
“Thanksgiving on the Grill” by Mara Papatheodorou & Katie O’Kennedy
“Chicken Liver Pâté with Chanterelles and Cognac”, “Oysters Rockefeller Soup”, “Grill-Roasted Turkey with Sage Butter and Giblet Gravy”, “Giblet Gravy”, “Corn Bread, Andouille Sausage and Fresh Sage Dressing”, “Cranberry-Pineapple Salsa”, “Grill-Roasted Vidalia Onions”, “Grilled Parsnips”, “Haricots Verts with Goat Cheese and Warm Bacon Dressing”, “Pumpkin Cheesecake with Gingersnap Crust”
“Pie, Please” by Dede Wilson
“Butter Pie Crust Dough”, “Ginger-Honey Pumpkin Pie”, “Lemon Chiffon Pie with Glazed Cranberries”, “Pumpkin Pie with Spiced Walnut Streusel”, “Lattice Pie with Pears and Vanilla Brown Butter”, “Bourbon-Orange Pecan Pie with Bourbon Cream”, “Cranberry-Ribbon Apple Pie”
Holiday Inns by Max Alexander
Looking to getaway for the Holidays? Max takes a look at five luxurious places:
The Hartstone Inn – Camden, Maine
Hacienda del Sol – Tuscon, Arizona (recipe: “Roast Pork with Apricot & Honey-Mustard Glaze”)
The Inn at Langley – Whidbey Island, Washington (recipe: “Kabocha Squash Soup with Pancetta”)
Amangani – Jackson Hole, Wyoming
Woodlands Resort & Inn – Summerville, South Carolina (recipe: “Cheddar & Herb Biscuits”)
Fast Weekday Dinners – Every Night Cooking by Brooke Dojny & Melanie Barnard
“Tortelloni with Mushroom-Sage Sauce”, “Lebanese Lentil-and-Rice Pilaf with Blackened Onions”, “Veal Scallops with Wild Mushroom, Mustard, and Tarragon Sauce”, “Choucroute with Caramelized Pears”, “Parmesan Chicken with Mixed Baby Greens”, “Grilled Ham and Swiss Sandwiches”
At the Market – Pomegranates by Christopher Styler, recipes by Sara Dickerman
“Pomegranate Cocktail”, “Pomegranate, Beet, and Blood Orange Salad”, “Chunky Orange and Pomegranate Marmalade”, “Pomegranate-Caramel Tart with Walnuts”
There’s also a small sidebar on how to seed and juice them.
Timesaving Recipes – Too Busy to Cook?: Quick and Easy Recipes from Readers By Tina Thompson
“Pumpkin Pie with Spiced Whipped Cream”, “Parmesan-Blue Cheese Toasts with Green Onions”, “Shortcut Twice-Baked Potatoes with Bacon”, “Baked Fish with Paprika-Lemon Butter”
Cooking for Health – The Turkey-less Thanksgiving by Marie Simmones
“Butternut Squash Soup with Roasted Red Pepper Puree”, “Wild Rice and Brown Rice Cakes with Roasted Vegetable Ragú”, “Watercress and Broccoli Salad with Dried Cranberries”
A small sidebar offers three other suggestions for turkey-less dishes
Last Page Feedback – Q & A with Pulitzer Prize-winning author Jane Smiley