Bon Appetit December 2003 – The Holiday Issue (ads galore!) Among the contributors in this issue: Tyler Florence, Nao Hauser and Julie Powell of the infamous “Julie/Julia Project” Blog (sans expletives deleted ) The photos in this issue are wonderful, bordering on food porn! Starters - “Caviar used to only be for the wealthy” but there are affordable kinds out there now: Paddlefish, White Sturgeon, Trout, Whitefish, Hackleback and Salmon. - Malmo, Sweden is the current “in” spot, especially during Christmas. - A short “Q & A” with Cynthia Rowley & Ilene Rosenzweig, creators of the trendy “Swell” line of products & books found at Target. - “Fantasy gifts for Foodies” – What to give someone who’s bored with the Neiman-Marcus catalogue: A Personal Chef ($1,500 - $10,000), a rare copy of “Physiologie du Gout” by Brillat-Savarin ($2,500), a Sicilian Food & Cooking experience - part cruise, part hiking ($7,950 to $9,950), Pro Wine Storage – like those cigar clubs that store your stash, except for wine ($20 to $4,000 a year), Dinner on the American Orient Express – Los Angeles to Seattle ($4,990) and a class at the CIA described as a week-long “Boot Camp” for food enthusiasts ($1,500 to $1,850). - Style Notes: “Instant Antiques” Everything old is new again as china patterns from the past are resurrected and blended in the new retro patterns. - “Gingerbread House Remodel” – Suggestions on how to spice up this old Christmas standard including using old confectionary favorites to decorate, including Necco Wafers and Dots. - “Gift Books for Cooks” – A look back at the 2003 favorites. Nine books are listed including Mark Bittman’s “How to Cook Everything: The Basics” R.S.V.P. - Favorite Restaurant Recipes “Salmon with Martini Sauce” – Cobalt, New Orleans, LA “Pumpkin Cheesecakes with Cranberry-Caramel Sauce” – City Limits Diner in White Plains, NY “Pot-au-Feu of Beef Short Ribs with Horseradish Sauce” – Rustique in Aspen, Colorado “Whole Wheat Gingerbread Pancakes” – The Café Pierre in the Pierre Hotel in NYC “Pork Baked in Banana Leaves” and “Pickled Onions” – El Turix in Cozumel, Mexico “Chocolate-Pecan Tart” – Mon Ami Gabi in Chicago, Illinois “Warm Baby Spinach and Mushroom Salad with Ponzu Dressing” – Koi in Los Angeles, CA Entertaining Made Easy – "Breakfast by the Tree" by Rozanne Gold A do-ahead menu for Christmas Morning: “Prosciutto and Goat Cheese Strata”, “Roasted Red Potatoes with Lemon”, “Citrus Salad with Mint Sugar”, “Pear and Dried Cherry Frangipane Cake” A side bar article suggests some drinks for Christmas Morning ranging from a tequila Carnavalito to a Hot Mocha White Chocolate. Tools of the Trade – "What a Girl Wants - When it comes to the holidays, our gadget queen thinks big" by Dorie Greenspan Dorie presents her Wish List: Miele Coffee System (about $1,900), Lussino Ice Cream Machine ($600 at www.surlatable.com), Mouli Truffle Shaver (about $15 at www.cooking.com), Hearthkit ($200 at www.hearthkitchen.com), “Gifts with Good Taste – Right from your kitchen…and made with recipes from some of the world’s brightest food stars” by Monica Parcell Home-made gifts! Recipes: “Carmelized Honey with Star Anise” by Caprial Pence, author and co-host of the PBS show “Cooking with Caprial & John” (her husband) “Dark Chocolate Truffles with Honey and Lime” by Pierre Hermé, author and Parisian patisserie owner “Rose Water and Lemon Gelées” by Chef Angela Hartnett of London’s Connaught Hotel “Ancho and Pasilla Chile Oil” & “Mediterranean Herb Oil” by Michael Chiarello, author and PBS & FoodTV show host “Confit of Winter Fruits” by St. Jacques People and Places – “Julia Knows Best” by Julie Powell Julie’s essay on her infamous yearlong attempt at tackling Julia Child’s “Mastering the Art of French Cooking”. If you’ve read her blog, you’ve read all of this before. Unfortunately, there’s nary a single cussword in the entire piece which was part of the charm of her “Julie/Julia” blog. We learn at the very end that Julie is writing a book about her experience to be published in the Spring of 2005 by Little, Brown. Traveling with Taste – “Where the Holidays Really Rock” by Nao Hauser A look at the three-block square of New York’s Rockefeller Center including the restaurants. Nao briefly discusses the Rainbow Grill, The Sea Grill, Morell Wine Bar & Café, Citarella and Tuscan Square. A side bar article recommends seven shops in the Center. Wine & Spirits – “The 12 Bottles of Christmas” by Hugh Garvey Hugh suggests a mixed case as a gift depending on the recipient. Recipients are broken down into categories: The Entertainer, The Cocktail King, The Connoisseur and the Foodie. Each category is given 12 wine suggestions. “The Man Behind the Bubbles” by Dorie Greenspan Dorie visits Jacques Péters, a third-generation winemaker of Veuve Clicquot, producer of some of the world’s finest champagnes. The article includes a great picture of Jacques standing in the champagne cellar surrounded by hundreds of bottles aging in the background. Jacques takes Dorie through the estate, the vineyards and the “recipe” for champagne. A side article suggests three of Veuve Clicqout’s champagnes. “Tasting Panel Report” by Anthony Dias Blue -Recommendation of four cocktail shakers -Recommendation of good brands of the Hungarian dessert wine Tokaji (toh-KAE) -Recommendation of seasonal specialty beers including Anderson Valley Brewing Company’s “Winter Solstice”, Kansas City’s Boulevard Brewing Co.’s “Nutcracker Ale”, Blue Ridge’s “Snowball’s Chance”, Boston’s “Harpoon Winter Warmer” with a hint of cinnamon & nutmeg and, lastly, Oregon’s Rogue Ale’s “Santa’s Private Reserve”. Top Ten Sparkling Wines: Bouvet 2000 Saphir Brut, Saumur ($17) Gloria Ferrer 2000 Blanc de Blancs, Carneros ($18) Segura Viudes Nonvintage Reserva Heredad, Cava ($20) Yarden Blanc de Blancs, Galilee ($22) Pol Roger Nonvintage Brut, Champagne ($35) Laurent-Perrier Nonvintage Cuveé Ultra Brut, Champagne ($39) Schramsberg 1997 Brut Reserve, California ($60) Ca’ del Bosco 1995 Cuveé Annamaria Clementi, Franciacorta ($120) Taittinger 1995 Brut Blanc de Blancs Comtes de Champagne ($152) Moët & Chandon 1993 Cuveé Dom Pérignon Rosé, Epernay ($230) Personal Taste – “The Goose of Christmas Past” by David Leite “How do you know when a goose is cooked?” Inspired by “The Christmas Carol”, David tackled a goose for Christmas dinner and things didn’t turn out so well. Perhaps it was the extra butter he put under the goose skin. Or that he couldn’t find that little button thingy that pops out to tell you when your bird is done. David gets a goose-cooking lesson from a woman who speaks in nothing but UPPER CASE LETTERS and ends up with a pretty good cooked goose. Recipe: “Mustard and Garlic Roast Goose” Bon Vivant – “What’s New. What’s Hot. What’s Good. Special Gift Guide” by Gina Provenzano Showcased gift suggestions: A wreath made with lemon leaves and chile peppers, hand-embroidered napkins, Early 20th century Argentinean seltzer bottles, glass fruit-shaped ornaments, a bouquet of fruit and flowers, Artisanal cheese and exotic fruits, an ornament filled with chocolate-covered almonds, a menorah made up of separate candle holders that can be broken up and used throughout the year, elegant place cards and placeholders for that special dinner, assorted handmade chocolates and candies, personalized chocolate & white chocolate mini cheesecakes, a caviar serving set, leather cellar books for the wine enthusiast. Going Out – “Red-Hot London” by Matthew Fort Restaurant reviews from the spicy London scene: Chef Tom Aiken’s “Tom Aiken’s” near Chelsea, Chef Atul Kochar at “Benares” (Indian food) in Berkeley Square, Mayfair, Chinese food at “Hakkasan” near the British Museum in Bloomsbury, Spanish food at “Fino” which is also in Bloomsbury, French cooking by Chef Henry Harris at “Racine” in Knightsbridge, Australian Chef Scott Webster is doing some healthy cooking at “Osia” in Haymarket near Picadilly Circus, Australian Chef David Thompson cooks classic Thai at “Nahm” in Belgravia, a neighborhood restaurant “Thyme” in Clapham and finally, Jamie Oliver’s “15” is tucked away in Hoxton. Top Tables – “The Restaurant Reporter” by Tanya Wenman Steel First, a side article on well known chefs who’ve created the menus for top-of-the-line cruise ships. “The Buzz” – Hot spots Las Vegas – Bradley Ogden (Bradley Ogden), Café Giorgio (Piero Selvaggio), Seablue (Michael Mina), Craftsteak (Tom Colicchio), Fiamma Trattoria (Stephen Hanson), Tre (Maccioni family), Simon Kitchen & Bar (with Chef Kerry Simon) ,Rosemary’s at the Rio (Chef-owners Wendy & Michael Jordan) New York – Mix in New York (Alain Ducasse), Lever House (Dan Silverman), Amuse (Gerry Hayden), Budapest, Prague & Vienna – Vörös és Fehér (in the Opera District in Budapest), Bohémtanya (Belvaros District in Budapest), Bar Bar (Malá Strana District in Prague), Café Imperial (Hotel Imperial in Prague), Oswald & Kalb (Vienna), Trattoria Santo Stefano (Hotel Graben, Vienna) St. Martin – La Romance (at Domaine de l’Amandier), Rainbow Café (in Grand Case), Le Gaïac (Marigot’s Le West Indies) “A Glittering Christmas Dinner” by Rick Rodgers – Glitzy and Glamourous to go with your champagne Recipes – “Pancetta, Leek and Goat Cheese Tartlets”, “Marinated Shrimp with Champagne Beurre Blanc”, “Standing Rib Roast with Rosemary-Thyme Crust”, “Zinfandel Beef Stock”, “Mashed Potatoes with Crimini Mushrooms”, “Sautéed Haricots Verts, Red Bell Peppers and Pine Nuts”, “Chocolate-Cranberry Torte” “Start it Up” by Betty Rosebottom – Finger foods and appetizers Recipes – “Peppered Tuna Skewers with Wasabi Mayonnaise”, “Polenta Bites with Blue Cheese, Tomatoes and Pine Nuts”, “Herbed Chicken-Chutney Salad on Lettuce Leaves”, “Roast Beef and Arugula Crostini with Oliver-Red Pepper Relish”, “Roasted Almonds with Rosemary and Fleur de Sel” “Hannukah Shines Bright”- by Randi Danforth – A special holiday dinner Recipes – “Herbed Butternut Squash Soup”, “Roast Chicken with Apricot-Rosemary Glaze”, “Rice Pilaf with Carrots and Fresh Basil”, “Yukon Gold Potato Latkes”, “Green Beans with Dijon Mustard and Carmelized Shallots”, “Apple, Onion and Walnut Salad with Cider Dressing”, “Chocolate-Chestnut Cake”, “Holiday Shortbread Cookies” “Santa’s Helpers” by Diane Morgan – Cookies! Recipes – “Christmas Cutouts with Vanilla Icing”, “Cinnamon, Brown Sugar and Walnut Shortbread Crescents”, “Coconut-Orange Snowballs”, “Holiday Biscotti with Cranberries and Pistachios”, “Puff Pastry Pinwheels with Candied Fruit”, “Hazelnut-Butter Cookies with Mini Chocolate Chips” “Grand Buffet” by Tyler Florence – A holiday buffet Recipes – ‘Three Olive Martinis”, “Roasted Fingerling Potatoes with Crème Fraíche and Caviar”, “Creamy Smoked Trout with Apple and Horseradish on Crisp Brown Bread”, “Pancetta-and-Herb-Roasted Pork with Fig Jam”, “Roasted Beets with Clementines and Mint”, “Creamy Turnip Puree with Walnuts, Anchovies and Parsley”, “Mashed Sweet Potatoes and Bananas with Pecan Streusel”, “”Christmas Croissant Pudding with Sour Cream and Brown Sugar Sauce”, “Pine Nut Cookies” “Crowning Glory” by Sarah Tenaglia - Dessert recipes with some wonderful photos Recipes – “Gingerbread Layer Cake with Candied Kumquats”, “Chocolate-Peppermint Ice Cream Cake”, “Cranberry-Lime Tart” (Cover Recipe), “Tiramisû Eggnog Trifle”, “Chocolate Leaves”, “Lemon Cheesecake with Strawberries and Port Glaze”, “”Black Forest Boule-de-Neige” “The Colors of the Season” by Gina Provenzano – Beautiful table settings and other pieces presented in color themes: Red, Gold, White, Green and Silver “Dazzling Delicious Naples” by Raphael Kadushin Raphael visits the Italian city and explores its shopping, dining and drinking. Beautiful photos! Recipe – “Baked Snapper with Potatoes, Oregano and White Wine”, “Honey-Coated Fritters with Candied Fruit” Fast Weekday Dinners – “Every Night Cooking” by Brooke Dojny & Melanie Barnard Recipes – “New England Fish Cakes with Herbed Tartar Sauce”, “Herb-Roasted Sausages and Butternut Squash”, “Quick Ragû Bolognese”, “Chipotle-Black Bean Burritos”, “Wasabi-Crusted Chicken Breasts” On the Scene – “The Western Insider” Brief “Q&A” with Jessica Strand, author of “Holiday Cocktails” (Chronicle Books, $16) Gifts from the West – Tamales from Tamale Molly (www.tamalemolly.com), Macaroons from Melfer’s Macaroons (www.melfersmacaroons.com), Chocolate de Oaxaca offers chocolates and moles from Oaxaca (www.mexichoco.com), Wine with seasonal labels from Eola Hills Winery (www.eolahillswinery.com), Golden Whitefish Caviar from Montana’s Mountain Lake Fisheries (www.whitefishcaviar.com) Recommendations of hotels, restaurants, inns and resorts out west. Calendar of events happening out west in December. At the Market – “Nutmeg” by Tori Ritchie – Everything you would ever want to know about nutmeg Recipes – “French Toast Bread Pudding”, “Nutmeg Scented Scones”, “Mike’s Milk Punch”, “Roasted Butternut Squash with Brown Butter and Nutmeg” Side article on nutmeg graters. Timesaving Recipes – “Too Busy to Cook?” Lorraine Stevenski of Clearwater, Florida offers these recipes – “Parmesan and Parsley Biscuits”, “Chicken Marinara”, “ Stuart Faber of LA, CA offers “Macaroni and Cheese with Mushrooms and Bacon” Feedback (Last Page) – Q&A with Los Angeles Philharmonic conductor Esa-Pekka Salonen
