slkinsey
-
Posts
11,151 -
Joined
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Store
Help Articles
Posts posted by slkinsey
-
-
Some good info on Barbuto from New York Magazine can be found here and here. The Daily News doesn't seem to like it. Eric Asimov, on the other hand, does.
-
How did you find out about it being Falk that invented the process, and also made the material for the other companies?
I asked.
When the nonfactory artisans in Villedieu make ss-lined copper, are they also buying their materials from Falk? For instance, the woman who showed me the "3mm" sauteuse - could that have been possible, or a little leg-pulling?That's an interesting question. I don't know. Permanently bonding a thin layer of stainless to a thick layer of copper is not an easy thing to do, nor is forming cookware out of it. The Villedieu people have to be getting their raw materials from somewhere, because they're sure as hell not making the bimetal themselves. I don't know, of course, but I would imagine that most of the nonfactory artisinal copper cookware is tin lined, as that is something one can handle in a one-person operation.
-
Great. We look forward to hearing from you upon your return. And, hey... it's not too late for your sister to register with eGullet in time to come on and report about it too.
-
Welcome, bronihk! I would hardly call one member's experience definitive, and Landmarc has received some positive early mentions in the media. Have you been there? Let us know your thoughts.
-
In terms of food sticking, would a polished stainless interior be more food stick-resistant than a brushed stainless steel interior? I noticed a lot of cookware advertise one or the other, and was wondering what the real difference was. Are there any other considerations when choosing between polished vs. brushed interiors?
No difference, in my opinion. The main thing you want to do is have a hot pan, add some cold oil and give it a shake while the protein is setting. There's no getting around the fact that stainless steel is one of the stickiest cooking surfaces around, but all cookware involves a compromise of some kind and it beats nonstick by a mile IMO.
-
pennbrew, isn't that statement a little hard to reconcile with the fact that Miller Lite contains things like propylene glycol alginate (beer foam stabiliser), chemically modified hop extracts (modified so they can use a clear bottle without the sun turning the beer skunky), amyloglucosidase (reduces the level of unfermentable polysaccharides ), papain enzyme (used to reduce chill haze), potassium metabisulfite (antibacterial agent), and Emka-malt?
-
Just a couple more questions before I hit the ship button. Do you have a preference between the Falk, Bourgeat, & Mauviel lines?
I prefer Falk Culinair for several reasons: 1. I think their American distributors are great people. I have always enjoyed doing business with them, and would like to give them more of my business. Having relationships with people who believe in their product and stand behind it is important. 2. I like the fact that they have a brushed finish rather than a mirror finish. This means I can easily keep my copper looking great using nothing more than Bark Keeper's Friend and a Scotch Brite pad. 3. The price of stainless lined heavy copper has come down significantly over the past five years. An eleven inch Bourgeat sauteuse evasée that used to list for 580 dollars and sell for 410 at deep discount (if you were lucky) now sells for around 270. This is largely due (I think) to Falk's rationalization of the copper cookware market with their reasonable prices. Falk's eleven inch sauteuse evasée sells for around $235.
From a pure performance standpoint, however, it's a wash. They're all exactly the same.
I just found this Bourgeat Sauté Pan on Pampered Chef. They claim that Bourgeat is 1/8 inch copper bonded to 1/8 inch 10 18 stainless. Can this be right? That would be just over 3mm of copper and stainless. I would think that this thickness of stainless would start to get in the way of the heat properties of the copper.This is bullshit, and these people clearly don't know what the hell they're talking about. First of all, Falk Culinair makes all the stainless/copper bimetal used by Bourgeat and Mauviel (they invented/patented the process). The thick gauge is 2.5 mm thick. Second, you are correct that no one would want 1/8 inch of stainless bonded to copper, as it would ruin any of the thermal properties of the copper. Third, I doubt very much that it is technically possible to bond 1/8 inch of steel to 1/8 inch of copper and form it into a piece of straight gauge cookware. Finally, 1/8 inch of copper bonded to 1/8 inch of stainless would give an overall thickness of 6.36 millimeters. No way.
Their 11 inch sauté pan is interesting. It is 5 ¼ quarts with and 3 inches high. What a monster if their thickness is accurate.As detailed above, that site's thickness claim is completely bogus. Bourgeat's stainless lined copper is no thicker than Falk's or Mauviel's. As for the sauté pan, Bourgeat's eleven inch sauté pan has sides that are a little higher than the standard height of ~2.8 inches. It's up to you to decide if that's something you would like to have. Bourgeat certainly makes a good sauté pan.
-
I recently bought a couple Paderno Curved Sauteuse Evasées. I had a small accident with one of them where some food scorched to the bottom and slightly up the sides of the pan. Soaking and scrubbing by hand with a steel wool pad did not clean the pan so I resorted to my last alternative -- a scotchbrite pad in an electric drill using lots and lots of mineral oil as a lubricant. I proceeded slowly, stopping when the scorched food residue was removed. The pan came clean however I think the characteristics of the pan have changed from new. I now notice that food tends to react and stick more than before.
Has my cleaning removed some sort of factory applied non-stick coating to the pan that I am not aware of?
Should I "season" stainless steel in the same spirit that one seasons a cast iron pan?
Hmmm... that's pretty rough treatment for a pan. You probably changed the texture of the metal on the inside of the pan and made rougher, which would tend to lead to more sticking. As for the food reacting more, that's impossible unless you scraped away part of the stainless steel all the way down to the aluminum base (very unlikely). Stainless steel is nonreactive. It doesn't need to be, nor does it benefit from seasoning.
Wish I could be more encouraging, but I think you screwed up the pan using that drill.
-
My first new pan is looking to be a Falk 11 inch 4.5 quart Sauté Pan or Sauteuse Evasee. I am leaning towards the Sauté pan due to its larger bottom and the helper handle, which I have found very useful in the past. A sauté pan was the most useful pan we had at the last restaurant where I worked so I am looking for a jack of all trade pans. I would like to sauté, making curries and sauces and do some braising (especially lamb shanks). I know you have mentioned the relative merits of these two pans before but would you mind comparing and contrasting once again?
The main thing is that the sauteuse evasée has taller sides and a curved transition from the base up to the sides. This, in my opinion, gives it an advantage for cooking applications involving liquids, such as the curries and braises you mention (especially the lamb shanks), and also for things like finishing pasta together with the sauce. I just think it's easier to work with a pan that has slightly higher sides in these cases, and the rounded edges make it a better performer in terms of sauces because it's easier to get a spoon into every corner of the pan.
The sauté pan, of course, has certain advantages when it comes to sautéing (i.e., direct heat transfer from the cooking surface to the food through a thin layer of fat) due to the larger surface area.
Fundamentally, though, they're pretty close. It's a matter of which pan you're most comfortable with and which design fits the dishes you would like to prepare. There's no right and wrong here, especially for someone with experience. For the things you say you would like to do, I would personally go with the sauteuse evasée. But, if you're used to using a sauté pan and prefer that, then you should go with a sauté pan.
One other question if I may. I enjoyed reading your definition of Sauté pans and how they are used. But there have been many instances where I have sautéed in a frying pan where you shake and toss the food. I do not recall you mentioning this type of cooking but I have seen it on food shows and in open kitchens. I have found it invaluable when sautéing onions, mushrooms etc or toasting seeds and nuts. Can you clarify the difference between this method and sautéing for me?Yea. A lot of kitchens use an all purpose deep frypan, usually in aluminum. In a frying pan, I find that one often has to "flip" the ingredients, or they will simply slide out the back side when you shake the pan. They both work. One is simply more difficult to do from a technical standpoint (the flipping with a frypan technique). You're much more likely to flip your mushrooms out of the pan using a frypan than you are a sauté pan. Sometimes, if the ingredients are wet and/or tend to stick together, or if the pan is carrying more food than it really should (a frequent error) the only thing you can use is the flip technique. I still think it's easier to do in a sauté pan, though.
-
Dude... I didn't even know there was actually an original original Ray's.
And, of course, I was too busy dealing with the onset of puberty in the late 70s to pay much attention to pizza. 
I assume the archetypal Ray's no longer exists? Or does it?
-
So... yesterday the NY Pizza crew surveyed the once-mighty Lombardi's Pizzeria Napolitana, a legendary restaurant which is usually cited as the first pizzeria in America. Lobmardi's has often been rated the "best pizzeria in NYC" by Zagat's and other such guides, but there have been rumors of serious slippage. We were there to find out...
Here's the place. Not the original location, but definitely some character there.
The oven. The tilework was moved over from the original location.
A closer look at the oven. Hmm... a cheery red glow, to be sure, but I wasn't sweating when I took this picture, and they actually had some seating in the oven room. Could this be a bad sign of things to come?
Our first order was the "reference standard" -- a pizza margherita. JoesephB had earlier done a "test run" at Lombardi's and advised us that we should ask them to go easy on the sauce and cheese. Our first impression was "whoa... this is 'light on the sauce and cheese?' It's a good thing we didn't order one 'regular.'" Although this was still a little heavy on the toppings, the proof would be in the crust.
Here's a nice shot of the crust. Looks pretty good, right? We were thrilled. Once again, advance notice of ordering quirks would yield a superior pizza experience.
If it wasn't quite as light as Pasty's crust or quite as flavorful as Grimaldi's, if it didn't have quite as much char as we might have liked... this could be mostly forgiven. It was still an excellent crust with a superb crackle. And, as Joe demonstrates here, it stood up nicely to the "fold test" -- better than anyplace we had previously visited, actually.
Still... the pizza, while very good, lacked a certain something. The sauce was too liberally applied, and not all that interesting. And they used fresh mozzarella, which didn't work as well here as it did at Patsy's because the blandness of the cheese didn't have much to play against. Mainly, though, the crust just wasn't as interesting. This is unfortunate, because I tend to agree with Peter Reinhart, who says in American Pie: My Search for the Perfect Pizza, ". . . crust is at least 80 percent of the pizza experience and is worth five times more than the toppings when it comes to total satisfaction." This is borne out right here on eGullet, where we have a large number of threads about pizza crusts as opposed to a relatively small number on pizza toppings.
One thing we noted was that the "oven spring" didn't seem to be as great here. Take a look at this slice:
See how dense the crust seems to be up at the thick part? This is very different from the light airy interior we got at Grimaldi's (this is discussed at some length upthread, starting here. Below is a direct comparison of Grimaldi's and Lombardi's that demonstrates the difference in oven spring.
Look at how much lighter the Grimaldi's example is! This open, airy interior was what we were missing in Lombardi's crust. This may seem like a minor difference, but consider this: five of us couldn't finish two large and one small pizza between us whereas at Patsy's we made it through one large pizza for every person in attendance, plus a large salad.
Anyway... although it was clear that Lombardi's wouldn't win top honors, we were all suitably impressed with the crust. Then came the sausage pizza:
This was, again, "light on the sauce and cheese" but, unfortunately, the crust just didn't seem able to support the small addition in toppings. It's amazing to me how many American pizzerie make this simple mistake. One of the most important steps in making a superior pizza is to use less toppings, which you think would be better for the owners since it would lower the food cost. But, alas, the crust was now entirely pedestrian. Just look at this sad picture... not a spot of char... just a uniform insipid tan, really. No wonder Pan is hiding his face behind the slice. It's so you couldn't see the tears in his eyes.
The last pizza up was the "famous" clam pie. Even Lombardi's detractors seem to agree that this is the one outstanding product left at Lombardi's. Well, my friends, not any more. They clearly use canned or frozen chowder clams, and so much garlic that any flavor in the chewy bits of sea-gristle was entirely obscured. Not only that, but somehow they still managed to pile on too many toppings, which is a real feat considering that this pizza didn't have any sauce or cheese. Even though we asked for the pizza to be coolked a little longer, which I think they did actually do (one corner of the pizza was nicely charred), the crust still didn't approach the level achieved on the first pizza.
I wonder if Lombardi's suffers from the same heat loss problems due to volume as Grimaldi's. The joint was packed, and it does seem odd that the quality dropped off so much between the first pizza and those which followed. I'd be interested to visit the place some weekday afternoon for lunch, when it's not so crowded, the oven is hopefully hotter and the pizzaioli have more attention to give each pizza.
The service was excellent, by the way. Despite the über-busy afternoon, our waiter was attentive and didn't mind that we ordered our pizza consecutively rather than simultaneously. The hostess was extremely pulchritudinous, and had saved a table for our party right next to the open door in the second section of the restaurant. I'll reserve final judgment until I am able to make a visit during what might be more optimal circumstances. But, for now, I think it's one of those places you go to for the experience more than the pizza.
-
The gelato at Ciao Bella, while not at the pinacle achieved by maybe one or two other places in the city, is definitely high quality and better than 98% of what is served around the City. One fun thing about Ciao Bella is that they are less bound by tradition than some of the other places. For example, I had "malted milk ball" gelato, which consisted of malt-flavored gelato studded with little malted milk balls. It was fun.
I'm not suggesting that Ciao Bella's product would be considered top notch in Sicily, or even compared to Il Laboratorio del Gelato. But they make a quality product, they have several locations, and it's a good place to stop by for a gelato on a warm afternoon.
-
Is it true that if you make coffee (or espresso) and then chill it overnight, that it loses its caffeine content? I've noticed that it certainly tastes best when you make a fresh shot and then chill it over ice & drink it right away. Is this some kind of coffee fallacy?
From a purely chemical standpoint, I don't see how it would lose any caffeine. The taste difference is probably due to the fact that freshly-brewed esppresso is chick full of volatile flavor and aroma compounds. "Volatile" in this case means "don't last for long, so drink it quickly before they go away."
-
Currently, I have pots from the Hackman Tools line, which I really like and Lodge Cast Iron griddle/grill and fry pans. The iron is really great but sometimes I don’t want to do all the weightlifting associated with them and have been looking at some nice, non-stick frypans. So far, I am leaning towards Swiss Diamond brand (10 mm). Does anyone have any experience with their pans? Any thoughts?
My first thought is that there is only so "nice" a nonstick pan can be. Untimately, they're never going to be all that nice compared to a piece of quality cookware built to last. And all nonstick has a finite lifetime, since the coating will eventually wear off/out.
I'll tell you what, though... I like the thickness of the aluminum, nothing would make me spend >100 bucks on an eleven inch nonstick frypan with plastic handles.
-
That seems very odd. Could you provide a picture?
A few questions: What did you scrub it with? And does it look like you might have scrubbed away >2 mm of copper (i.e., is there a dent in the copper)?
I used a regular steel-wool pad, and didn't scrub very hard. There was just one little patch that needed a bit of extra attention. That patch is now silvery. There are no sharp demarcations between the silver color and the copper. There is no indentation. I don't have a digital camera, so I can't provide a picture.
It's not the stainless, then. Perhaps it's from the steel scrubbing pad? Try scrubbing the pan all over with Bar Keeper's Friend and a Scotch Brite pad.
-
I see I've been falling down on the job and letting some questions pile up. Sorry about that.
So...Speaking of copper...is there a reason why Falk, Bourgeat, & Mauviel don't make stainless steel handles on their 2.5mm lines (as opposed to most other major cookware manufacturers)?Lorea, the main reason is that the handles on heavy copper cookware must be solid in order to properly balance the pan. The "stay-cool" handles you're talking about are thin strips of metal bent into a shape. Not only would these handles be insufficiently heavy to balance the pans, which would make them awkward to pick up and move around, but it's unlikely that a thin metal tube or "V-handle" would be able to withstand the repeated stress put on it when the pans were lifted by the handle. Eventually the handle would start to bend. Y0ou have to keep in mind that a heavy copper pan is a lot, well... heavier than the aluminum-based pans from most other major cookware manufacturers.
As for making solid metal handles of stainless steel as opposed to iron, there are two good reasons to do this. First, as you point out, stainless steel is nonreactive and won't rust. Second, stainless steel has crappy thermal properties and therefore it will take longer for the handle to heat up. On the other hand, the solid handle on an eleven inch saute pan takes a lot of metal. Stainless steel is signifciantly more expensive to use than iron.
As it turns out, at lease one manufacturer does produce copper cookware with stainless steel handles. As detailed upthread, Mauviel has a 2.0 mm stainless lines copper line with stainless handles. However, this line is actually more expensive than the 2.5 mm stainless lined copper line. An easy way to figure out the cost of the stainless handle is to compare the 2.0 mm stainless handle line with the 2.0 iron handle line, since the body of the pan is the same. A 2.0 mm eleven inch frypan with a stainless handle has a full retail price of $240 and a typical sale price of $192. The same frypan with an iron handle has a full retail price of $180 and a typical sale price of $148. A 44 to 60 dollar difference just for the metal used in the handle! In my book, that's "prohibitively expensive."
And do the cast iron handles get hot during normal stovetop use?
Depends on how they're used, but yea, they'll heat up. I've never experienced any handle that wouldn't heat up when the pan is used over high heat for a sufficiently long period of time. The thing to consider here is that these handles are designed for professional use (in/out of oven/salamander, etc.), and I'd never touch the handle of any pan in a professional kitchen without using a towel.
They also rust if not dried, I'm assuming?Um... maybe? I don't know, as I wipe down all my cookware when I finish cleaning it. As mentioned upthread, the thing to do is "season" the handle with a little oil. I've never been worried.
-
Admin: I split off the soft shell cooking discussion to a thread in the cooking forum
-
I don't think it confuses the issue to compare one kind of reviewing to another similar kind. Both music and food (along with the graphic arts and other performing arts) are fields in which there are a relatively small number of experts and a large majority of consumers who "know what they like." One thing that such a comparison points out is that some people don't think restaurant reviewing is as "important" as opera (etc.) reviewing. That's neither here nor there, but the comparison does force one to come out on one side or another of that issue.
-
Bruni ... presumably goes to the opera every now and again... may even be a subsriber at the opera in Rome.
BUT, I'd be pretty upset and disappointed if the Times brought him to NYC to be the top critic for opera. How is this different?
About the only difference I can see is that Bruni has done some food writing, albeit only as a sidelight, but at least (arguably) enough to demonstrate an aptitude for the subject.
Had Bruni written some opera articles and demonstrated aptitude for that subject, his appointment as an opera critic would be acceptable to me.
Not to me, it wouldn't. Not unless he had demonstrated significant aptitude for the subject. Have Bruni's writings demonstrated such aptitude with respect to restaurant reviewing?
The situation is also very different, because the Times has several classical music critics, and a bad review can't shut an opera production down the way a bad review can kill a restaurant.I'm not quite sure what point you're arguing here. This would seem to argue against a populist, learn-on-the-job take on restaurant reviewing. After all, you're saying that the restaurant review has a much larger impact on a restaurant than an opera critic's review has on an opera company. Doesn't that imply that an incoming restaurant critic should have more demonstrable knowledge and reviewing experience in his/her respective field than an incoming opera critic?
That said, while you may be correct with respect to opera companies like the Metropolitan, which schedule seasons and artists years in advance and do limited runs of many different operatic works, it is a fact of the arts business that a bad review can have a significant impact on the survival of music theater productions (most of which are designed to run in perpetuity so long as people pay to see them).
-
Looking at this a different way: Bruni is clearly an interesting and intelligent writer who has something to say. He has also just spent a while as the NY Times bureau chief in Italy, the country which just happens to be the birthplace of opera and still a central country in the operatic world. He presumably goes to the opera every now and again... may even be a subsriber at the opera in Rome.
BUT, I'd be pretty upset and disappointed if the Times brought him to NYC to be the top critic for opera. How is this different?
-
Right. My understanding is that umami is the word coined by Kikunae Ikeda to describe the flavor of glutamic acid. So it is indeed the "flavor" of MSG.
Has anyone tried adding a shake of Ac'cent to a cocktail?
-
What's the deal with durum semolina flour? I'm using it in my mix because the pizzeria I loved years ago in my old neighborhood used durum semolina flour in their dough (not sure whether they mixed it with anything else) and it was my favorite crust of all time.
There is a little confusion about this. Durum is a strain of wheat. Semolina is a grind of wheat. However, the twu names have become interchangeable to a certain extent.
Semolina, strictly speaking, is a coarse, gritty milling of wheat (usually durum). It is not, in my opinion, particularly useful for pizza dough other than as lubrication on the peel.
Durum wheat is an especially high protein strain of hard wheat, mostly grown in the US and Canada. Not only does it have a higher gluten content than other strains of wheat, but the gluten is especially strong. Interestingly, the chemical properties of the gluten seem to be somewhat different as well. I say this because I am a long time sourdough baker, and I have noticed that durum wheat doughs are not as fragile as those made with regular wheat at a similar protein level. Sourdough bread can be tricky because certain fractions of gluten are dissolved by acid. These same fractions are responsible for most of the good leavening properties in the dough. Durum sourdoughs don't seem to experience the effects that would indicate that the gluten fractions responsible for good leavening were being broken up by acid.
-
Basilgirl, why don't you have a look at the wonderful eGCI class: Cooking for One. The associated Q&A thread is here.
-
I'm not sure it makes sense to split semantic hairs about the meaning of "evolution" in this discussion. I think we all share an understanding that, in this context, it has the meaning "a process of change and growth in a chef's cuisine." This seems to me well within the generally-accepted meanings for the word. The biological sciences meaning or evolution is only one among many.
Espresso v Expresso
in Coffee & Tea
Posted
Several things here... regardless of what Merriam-Webster says, "espresso" does not mean that the coffee is "expressed" as in "forced out (as the juice of a fruit) by pressure." I'll take a look in my Zingarelli when I get back home, but I don't recall hearing the word used in this sense.
Used as a verb, espresso is the past participle of the verb esprimere, which means "to express, as in to voice an opinion" and also "to express, as in to convey a true impression of e.g., the flavor of the coffee beans, one's internal torment, whatever." AFAIK, one does not "esprima" the juice out of a lemon, the oil out of an olive, or the coffee out of coffee beans. The verb for that is spremere, which means "to squeeze e.g., the juice out of a lemon or the answer out of one's mind" or "to press e.g., the oil out of an olive." This is the verb that would tend to go with the meaning "pressed out coffee," in which case we would all be asking for spremuto (the past participle of spremere). This would make things very confusing, since "spremuta" (literally "squeezed") is generally taken to mean "fresh fruit juice."
malachi has the right idea and the history seems correct.
Used as a adjective, espresso either indicates specificity (as in, "expressly for you" or "my express desire") or speed (as in, "express train"). I have understood in the past that "caffè espresso" or "caffè all'espresso" means "coffee made quickly." I have a hard time thinking that the "espresso" used to describe coffee is used in the part participle sense. If it were, then I think most Italians would be calling the product "espresso" just like they do "spremuta." But they don't, they call it "caffè."