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slkinsey

eGullet Society staff emeritus
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Posts posted by slkinsey

  1. I like Carpano's Punt e Mes the best, but people that don't like bitter might not like it.

    Interesting. It had never occurred to me to use Carpano Punt e Mes as a vermouth-category ingredient as opposed to a Campari-category ingredient. How does it work in a Manhattan? Do you have to use a smaller amount than you might vermouth to balance the drink?

  2. Interesting article. Sounds like they prefer their margaritas a lot sweeter than I do mine, as they use something they call "Mezcal mix" (water, sugar and lime juice) instead of just lime juice. To my taste, the triple sec provides all the sweetness the drink needs.

    It's worthy of note that the basic formula for a margarita (base liquor, triple sec and citrus juice) works fantastically in a wide variety of combinations. This formula is what Gary Regan calls a "New Orleans sour" in The Joy of Mixology, and it includes such favorites as the margarita and cosmopolitan. Just last night, Fat Guy and I were poking through his liquor cabinet looking for something to make into a cocktail. I thought of the NO sour formula and we ended up throwing together some Cane rum, Cointreau triple sec and lime juice. It was damn tasty.

  3. Now that Per Se is up and running, I have created a separate thread for discussion relating to the fire, including PR, reopening, rescheduling, and any other related discussion.

    This thread will remain as the main thread for reviews and discussions about the food at Per Se.

  4. My next piece is looking to be a Cuisinart Chef’s classic stainless 12 Qt stockpot ($35 at Amazon).  Is there a good reason to spend a lot on a stockpot?

    It's only important to spend enough to make sure the pot has a thick aluminum bottom. If the Cuisinart Chef's Classic has that, and if it's big enough for you (it would be a little small for me), then there is no reason to spend more.

    I was then starting to think about the 2 Qt All-Clad Master Chef Saucier Pan ($90 at Amazon).  But I am really being drawn to the 2 Qt Falk Copper Saucier ($155).  This will be my primary sauce pan and I really, really like my new 4.5 Qt Saucier.

    It depends, I suppose, on how many delicate sauces you make and, and how often. There is no doubt that the Falk saucepan is an amazing performer, but it may not be worth an additional 65 bucks unless you would really take advantage of it frequently. They're both good pans.

    If you do decide to get the All-Clad pan, make sure you check out Cookware and More. That 2 quart MasterChef saucepan you're thinking of buying for 90 bucks? They'll sell you a "second" for 64 dollars.

    The last piece I am considering is 5 to 7 Qt enameled cast iron casserole.  I have been looking Staub’s line of round and oval French ovens.  How is everyone using their enameled cast iron?  I know about braising and stewing, but what else are they used for?  What are the advantages and disadvantages of the round and oval?   Is this type of cookware in a 5 to 7 Qt casserole size versatile enough in the kitchen to justify its purchase? This is a type of cookware that I don’t have any experience with so I have more questions than answers.

    Staub is my favorite maker of enameled cast iron. A quality product all the way around.

    As for round versus oval, I'd go with round. Oval is really only useful for braising large, long pieces of meat (whole leg of lamb, goose, etc.).

    As for the utility of a 5 - 7 quart enameled cast iron casserole, I have found them very useful. They are the best for braising and low/slow dishes like stews. I also like them very much for long simmered pasta sauces. Whether or not these are things you find yourself wanting to do should inform your decision about whether or not you want to invest in one of these pots.

    Glad to hear that you are enjoying the Falk saucière (aka curved sauteuse evasée). So far, everyone I've recommended it to has loved it, and it's definintely the most used pan in my kitchen.

  5. Just as an aside - Bed, Bed & Beyond appears to be closing out "Commercial" nonstick Calphalon (perhaps it's being replaced 100% by Calphalon One).  Our local store had some very good deals this week (particularly when you throw in a 20% off coupon).

    Definitely good stuff. Although I am not a nonstick fan in general, I do agree that everyone ought to have at least one large nonstick skillet for certain tasks that would otherwise be difficult. Calphalon Commercial nonstick is my favorite, and while I'll be sorry to see this line go away, there are tremendous deals to be had. I got two 12" frypans for 25 bucks each on Amazon.

    And just my two cents - if you are thinking of buying a large expensive piece of cookware - and you're not quite sure what you'll use it for - wait until you have a recipe you want to cook - and you need the new pot.  Then shop around.  It's easier to buy something when you have some idea what you're going to use it for (which is why I don't normally buy formal dresses on spec  :smile: ).

    This is very good advice, and somethiing I point out in the cookware class. It cannot be said too often.

  6. Money is the answer.

    It is expensive for wineries to produce half-bottles. It is expensive for wholesalers to maintain inventories of half-bottles and full-bottles.

    So half-bottles aren't simply whole bottles that were opened and divided in half at the restaurant. As they say, you learn a new thing every day...

    Right. A half-bottle, in this case, is a bottle that is one-half the size of a full bottle.

    Landmarc is kind of a special case. They don't sell wine by the glass, but instead offer many wines by the half-bottle with by-the-glass prices. This works brilliantly for them, but I'm not sure how well it would work for everyone.

  7. Franny's sounds awesome. I definitely would like to check it out. I read things like this, and it's like they're speaking my language. Witness the profusion of slkinsey buzz-phrases:

    All of this is prelude to the pizza, rough, rustic beauties perfumed with smoke, exquisitely charred, and served unsliced in the Neapolitan style. Franny’s makes much of its blazing wood-burning, brick-walled beehive oven, and with good reason: This is a crust-lover’s pie (at the expense, some might think, of the sauce, the cheese, and the toppings, which are applied with a minimalist touch), and the crust triumphs, even though Feinberg and crew must still be acclimating themselves to the dough and the fire. The pizza was different every time we had it, but always uncommonly tasty.

    Damn, that piques my interest... JosephB? What are you doing this weekend? :smile:

  8. It absolutely does make a difference, but there is room for quite a bit of variability. You want a cup that is right around 2 ounces, assuming a one ounce shot but leaving room for a double ristretto at around 1.5 ounces if you prefer. The cup should have thick walls that will retain heat when the cup is preheated (a cold cup can substantially lower the temperature of a shot).

  9. Newbie here again. Ok, I still don't feel like I've gotten a satisfactory answer as to why Amanda Hesser's career is regularly dissected here with such interest and so much emotion. If I don't get an answer after this, I'll drop it. But I had to ask one more time.

    Amy, I don't think you're going to get a definitive answer to this that will satisfy you. She is discussed here because people have strong reactions to her work, and because she is in an unusually high-profile position. There is little doubt in my mind that Bruni will receive plenty of scrutiny and disection in these forums as well. That's what we do here... we talk about things in the food world that interest us.

  10. One thing you can say about Amanda Hesser, at least, is that she inspires strong reactions from readers who care about the subject material.  This, in my mind, is an incredible positive whether one agrees with her assessments or not.

    Sam, that's so sweet.

    It's like in the music business. If someone comes out on the stage and has something to say that I don't particularly like, that's better than having someone come out who I don't much care about one way or the other. If you look at some of the greatest singers in opera -- take Placido Domingo for example: plenty of people love his work, but you might be surprised at how many virulent detractors he has (a lot).

    Amanda Hesser, I think, has a place in food writing... maybe a significant one. I'm not sure that place is in reviewing, but I do think it's interesting how much stronger our reactions have been to her reviews than Grimes' reviews, and I think this might reflect, at least partially, a certain lack of "something to say" on his part. Given the choice between someone who has something to say that I don't agree with and someone with not so much to say... I prefer the former.

  11. Thanks for responding to my swiss diamond question. I am still a little interested in them due in part to their suggestion they have better thermal conductivity than copper.

    Diamond does have outstanding thermal conductivity... around three times better than copper. So, as soon as you can find me a nice thick frypan made out of pure diamond, we'll talk. :smile: Otherwise, you're talking about aluminum with some diamond dust on it.

    Hopefully you won't mind to solve a riddle for me. Recently, I have noticed several very beautiful and very expensive cast iron "woks" on the market and I have always associated woks with much thinner and responsive steel. Are these cast iron behemoths truly woks? If so, which is better.

    I'm not an expert on Asian cookware, so someone may correct me on this. Most woks these days are made of relatively thin carbon steel. This seems to be the standard configuration. Does this mean that woks made out of other materials are not technically woks? I have no idea. My operating assumption is that everything wok-shaped is a wok, and that iron was probably the original wok material anyway.

    Carbon steel woks may be useful on a home stove for many applications like steaming, deep frying, stewing, etc. However, the real problem comes when one wants to stir fry -- which is the purpose for which most people buy a wok. The shape of the wok (very inefficient from from a heat standpoint over a home stove) and the power of the typical home stove (pathetically underpowered compared to a restaurant wok burner) make a particularly unfelicitous combination when it comes to stir frying at home. The wok never gets very hot and loses what little heat it has accumulated very quickly. The only way to work around this is to cook in very small batches. A heavy cast iron wok deals with the heat problem by providing a massive heat capacity. Once that baby sits on the burner for a while and soaks up lots of heat, it will stay hot for a long time. For me, this makes the cast iron wok better for the home user who would like to stir fry -- even better would be a cast iron wok with a flat bottom for better heat transfer from the burner.

    All that said, I firmly believe that stir frying is much better done by the home cook in a sauté pan with a nice thick bottom (and yes, I've done side-by-side testing -- the sauté pan produced markedly better results). In fact, sautéing and stir frying are more or less the same thing. There was an article in the NY Times food section last week about a Vietnamese restauranteur named Charles Phan, featuring his recipe for "shaking beef" adapted to the home kitchen. One of the things I noticed was that the pictures accompanying the article showed the chef using a heavy frypan and not a wok as he would in the restaurant.

  12. Yea, the wine list at Landmarc is so inexpensive I almost laughed when I read it. What a deal! It really is revolutionary in its own way. I especially appreciated the fact that they offer a lot of half bottles.

    Really, many things about Landmarc are priced extremely reasonably. Steven and I were just talking about our impressions of Landmarc yesterday. Although we both live in ostensibly less-expensive neighborhoods, none of the comparable restaurants on the UES or UWS are priced as well as Landmarc... and in most cases the food is clearly not as good.

    Re the substitutions thing: Pamela Murphy and I communicated briefly about it. They are naturally happy to leave something out of any order or do sauce on the side at the customer's request. So "frisee aux lardons without the lardons" or "steak frites with sauce on the side" would work just fine. They also offer just about every accompaniment on the menu as a very reasonably-priced side dish. So, the fact is that you can have just about anything they offer with just about anything else if you really must. I imagine it's more a matter of mitigating the confusion that can ensue when a table of 6 puts in special orders for everyone, and perhaps also controlling the food cost for each dish (which cost, I assume, must be smartly managed given their unusually inexpensive prices).

  13. Having known slkinsey for quite  a few years...

    NoooooooOOOOOOOOOOOOOOooooooooooOOOOOOOOOOOOooooooooooo!

    Okay, who approved my mother for membership? :hmmm: What's the point of being a Site Manager if I'm not consulted on inmportant decisions like this, I ask you?

  14. I recently had a "Manhattan" made with Woodford, Triple Sec, and sweet vermouth, garnished with a twist of lemon. Now you see why I put that in quotes. :angry:

    Put in some lemon juice and you'd probably have a pretty good-tasting New Orleans Sour, but it's sure not a Manhattan.

    As to the cherry question posed by others above... I've always preferred an orange twist myself. To me, the cherry only makes sense if the drink's going to be sweeter than I prefer it.

  15. A man after my own heart! The Manhattan really is the King of Cocktails in my book. And I agree that it's best with orange bitters.

    My standard is Maker's Mark with Vya Sweet Vermouth at around 3:1, but it's also very good with rye whiskey, or even with Tenneseee whiskey.

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