cabrales

db bistro moderne is a restaurant I would like to explore a bit more. The two items I sampled were well-executed, the service friendly, and the decor modern and appropriate. I liked the large blown-up pictures of the insides of reddish flowers in the first dining area upon entry into the restaurant. I also liked the existence of two "communal" tables (each accommodating eight diners) where reservations are not required. Opposite the communal tables is a stretch of rows of bottles (presented with their full profile visible) behind a metal "mesh", with light effects. That the restaurant is open for dinner seven nights a week, and many nights late, is helpful. I liked the food so far sampled at db, even though I have historically not thought Daniel compelling (no recent visits). The flavor combinations worked, and the format of the restaurant permitted a diner theoretically to order a single dish and a glass of wine and have a relatively quick meal. The escargots were adequate in intrinsic quality, and were mixed with rich saucing and nice mushrooms (the night in question, not chanterelles, but something with a similar taste). The quail egg pleased me because it was served sunny-side up, with a runny mini yolk, and the edges slightly frittered. The chicken breast slices (smooth and nicely prepared, but lacking in some of the intrinsic chicken flavor of Bresse chicken) were appropriately prepared, with thin cream-based saucing. This was not a traditional "poule au pot". The morels were nice, and the wild asparagus was of a type I had not before encountered. Their tips had tiny little "hairs" on them (in a good way), and they tasted almost like shoots of another vegetable. I enjoyed this meal, and will return for further observations.

In one of the introductory pieces to the 2001 NYT Guide to New York City Restaurants (Grimes, Asimov, Reichl), Grimes discusses the role of space and decor: "Probably abotut 80 percent of a rating depends on the food, but food is not everything. Service matters. So does decor. Last year, for example, I was taken with the cooking at 71 Cinton Fresh Food. . . . It was also noisy and cramped . . . . So much so that most diners would hesitate before making a return trip. I thought of 71 Clinton as three-star food in a one-star setting, and my two-star rating reflected tht reaction . . . It did not hurt that Danube . . . was one of the lushest, most romantic interiors New York has seen. . . . But nothing can compensate for mediocre food. Warner Leroy pulled out all the stops to transfer the RussiaTea Room into a Xanadu, but the Hollywood production values could not make up for a less than entralling menu. . . . All of them could take a lesson from Wallse, or Blue Hill, little neighborhood restaurant with minimally pleasing decors and terrific kitchens." (italics added)

Jinmyo & CK -- Would the book be appropriate as the primary reference source (to begin with, at least) for somebody with no cooking skills?

Below were the items ordered during a recent fairly good meal at db bistro moderne (write-up to come): Escargots and Wild Mushroom Fricassee, Sauce Bordelaise and Quail Egg ($17) "Poule au Pot" Henri IV, Morels, Fava Beans and Wild Asparagus (26) Glass of Napa Chardonnay (12) Menu Items Not Ordered -- Tuna Salad "Saint Tropez", mesculun, tuna "cru et cuit" [raw and cooked], spring vegetables (AP 16) Moroccan Spiced Tuna, vegetable compote, citron confit (MC 29) Champignon Des Bois Wild Mushroom Veloute with duck confit (AP 13) Laitue Spring Lettuce Salad, roasted beets, crudites and lemon vinaigrette (AP 14) Roasted Halibut, braised lettuce, "petits pois a la francaise" [peas] and crispy bacon (MC 30) Canard Tamarind and cumin glazed Pekin duck breast, braised legs, mustard greens and turnips (MC 29) Crispy Duck Confit with wild asparagus, wild mushroom fricassee (MC 27) Volaille Guinea hen terrine with foie gras, housemade pickled vegetables (AP 16) Petit Pois Chilled pea soup with lobster and rosemary cream (AP 12) Duo of lamb, spring peas fricassee, savory lamb jus (MC 29) Asperge Warm tart of asparagus and morels (AP 14) Asparagus salad with Maryland blue crab, mustard dressing (AP 17) Roasted cod "Amandine", white asparagus, lobster cream (MC 27) Boeuf Boeuf en gelee, foie gras and horseradish cream (AP 13) Beef tournedos, green peppercorn sauce, glazed root vegetables (MC 32) Coquilles Saint-Jacques Ceviche of diver sea scallops, "Basquaise", lovage oil, and arugula (AP 15) Seared Maine diver sea scallops, shiitake mushrooms, spring potatoes, watercress (MC 30) Legumes Pommes Frites (Fries) SD 6 Mushroom Fricassee SD 11 Mesclun salad AP 11 Super green spinach SD 8 Specialite de la Maison Tomato tarte tatin with goat cheese, Trevisano and black olives (AP 17) Sirloin burger filled with braised short ribs, foie gras and black truffle, served on a Parmesan bun with pommes souffles (MC 29) Dish of the Day (one daily) Braised lamb shank, pork belly salad, Bouillabaisse (this dish is generally available Friday), crawfish fricassee, veal shank (for two), pig's feet -- Dinner Hours: Sunday 4:30 - 10:00 pm; Monday 5:30 - 10:00; Tuesday through Saturday 5:30 - 11:00. -- Lunch Hours: Monday through Saturday 12:00 - 2:15 pm.

Skortha advised me that, unexpectedly, the book "Gourmet Cooking for Dummies" is quite useful. It is co-authored by Charlie Trotter, and has some interesting recipes. (And, yes, it is one of those bright-yellow-colored books.) Note the book is not newly released. Do members have input on the book? Also, have members read the newer book applauding Trotter's employee management and restaurant running practices?

Felonius -- Thanks for posting your experiences

Bux -- I assume your technique is (1) use the tongs to gently lift the targeted soup dumpling off the cabbage leaves on which it is resting, (2) move it using the tongs so it is positioned very close to, but still slightly above, your plastic Chinese soup spoon (which is itself not sitting on anything), and (3) a careful drop onto the spoon. I have found the ginger shreds in the vinegar a bit unrefined. However, I still like the JS soup dumplings a lot.

I really like Joe Shanghai's soup dumplings with crabmeat and pork. What are members' views on such dumplings, and on the differences in quality (if any) between the Manhattan Chinatown and West 56th locations? Note that, to the best of my recollection, the same price per order buys 8 dumplings in Chinatown and 6 on the Upper West Side. I find that Joe Shanghai's other dishes are not as delicious (except for the meat-only soup dumplings). I have tried the tofu (medium soft) dish with the same crabmeat as the dumplings at the West 56th location, and found it average. I have heard one recommendation of the braised pork meatball dish ("Lion's Head" -- that's not necessarily its name on the menu) at the restaurant.

Perhaps this facility has been mentioned already, but there is a hotel/motel of sorts to the right of Fat Duck (separated by only a few storefronts) that appears fairly large. This facility would be within a very easy walk of WI.

B Edulis -- When you have a chance, are you aware of any other names by which sour cherries go? Also, how sour are they, and have you eaten them on their own (i.e., without adding any other ingredient)?

Have any members roomed at a facility called Monkey Island near Bray? Note I have received no indications this facility is attractive.

Liz -- Good point. That eliminates Grand Vefour. Jordyn -- I am uncertain whether Chiberta, Hiramatsu, La Regelade or Jamin would be open for lunch on a Saturday -- check if interested. L'Angle de Faubourg (bistro-like restaurant established by Vrinat, of Taillevent) is alright, and might be open Saturday. It is rather inexpensive, and is a new one-star. That the day in question is a Saturday also requires checking re: availability of specially priced menus, to the extent you are interested in them.

The Mongofiere (sic) room is nicely decorated with framed sketches of various hot air balloons. It also has some nice red-colored elements. The rooms can be viewed from the WI website.

Tony -- One factor may be that traditionally, restaurants aspiring for excellent service believe that the sommelier team should be pouring all beverages, including refilling glasses at an appropriate time before they become empty (or very shortly thereafter, in the event the diner suddenly picks up the pace on wine consumption during a meal). Thus, the restaurant team's desire to pour wine and water may be a reflection of its genuine desire to provide good service. A diner's choice to pour his own beverages may have negative externalities (i.e., perceptions of other diners that the restaurant is not furnishing excellent service) that are not borne by such diner.

Interesting. A friend of mine who usually has good judgement in these matters recommended Bofinger highly. So I too would be curious to hear what others think. jordyn -- I've heard about Bofinger being not worthwhile to visit, but have never sampled its cuisine. For lunch, you have many reasonable-value options -- including (1) two-starred Jamin which I recently wrote about on the France board in a thread by that name (not inspired cooking, but not bad for a low priced prix fixe menu -- please check with restaurant before reliance; chef is Robuchon pupil), (2) one-starred Chiberta (former sous-chef to Senderens; I liked the cuisine -- call regarding lunch menus if interested), (3) 71 euros for a three-course prix fixe lunch at three-starred Grand Vefour (note the cuisine did not please me, and you may be resting up for ensuing meals), (4) La Regelade, where lunch is in the 30-40 euro range and which I liked (this restaurant has been the subject of considerable debate -- see the thread with the reference to Piss Pauvre and bistros in the France forum), or (5) one-starred Hiramatsu -- check two threads by same name under France forum (recent meal was very disappointing; however, a less than 50 euro business lunch or "menu d'affaires" might be available and this restaurant has received considerable praise by a number of French and US restaurant reviewers)

Among the places in NY serving diners arriving at 11:00 pm: db bistro moderne, at least on certain nights of the week (?).

Basildog's description led me to wonder what level of theft, phony credit cards and/or leaving without paying might be "normal" in a restaurant in, say, New York or London. I wonder if the described problems increase or decrease with more expensive restaurants. Apologies if this topic has been discussed previously on the board.

Gavin -- The brochure did not describe the Pounds 700 as including room. It says "Pounds 700 (inclusive)", and I do not know what "inclusive" refers to (inclusive of tax and gratuities?). Feel free to call WI. The brochure is also unclear as to whether participants receive the Wedgwood plate as well as the enamel box (not that that is in any way important). Significantly, the menu is not specified and neither are the vintages of DP. Could they include some of the vintages recently released to selected restaurants, e.g., the 1959? If so, the Pounds 700/couple price might reflect some value for the DPs. Please post if you find out relevant information

There is a separate inn that is very close to El Raco. I had planned a trip there, but aborted it for various reasons. You can call El Raco to get the name of the inn (it is inexpensive); certain people at the restaurant have better English capabilities than others. As you know, San Celoni is an easy direct train ride from Barcelona.

Beachfan -- The individual behind the bar, who was also my server, provided the recommendation. He seemed enthusiastic, if not well-versed in the specifics of less commonly found grape varieties.

Waterside Inn furnished me with a list of special events planned to commemorate 30 years of the restaurant's opening. The Pounds 400/couple "A Taste of Spring" package (with room) and the Pounds 350/couple "Sunday nights" package described on the website linked at the end of this post are included in the materials from WI, but the more interesting offers are as follows: (1) "Thirty Pounds for Thirty Years" -- The Lunch Menu Gastronomique (choice of 2 starters, fish or meat as a main course, cheese or a choice of two desserts, and coffee) will be Pounds 30 from Wednesday through Saturday during September, October and November. (2) "Menu of Reflection" (this sounds promising) The six-course Menu Exceptionel typically offered by WI will be replaced with Roux's favorite dishes from the past, from mid-August until October 1. Cost is Pounds 76. (3) September 25, 2002 -- Highlight of 30th Birthday Year -- Evening of Food, Dom Perignon and Jazz (no name specified), at Pounds 700 (!) per couple. "After dinner and five vintages of delicious DP sit back and enjoy the musical talents of Marion Montgomery and Laurie Holloway. . . . Wedgewood have designed a one-off plate for this occasion and you will receive a hand painted enamel box, depicting The Waterside Inn [this is not one-off] as a momento of your participation in this celebration." Dress is "Black Tie and Pearls". I am uncertain the three offers detailed above are on the website. http://www.waterside-inn.co.uk/specialoffer_frameset.htm

Rail Paul -- Thanks. I recently answered a similar question from Stefany. I take notes during a meal, and am aided by other factors. See the below link: http://forums.egullet.org/ikonboa....;t=6943

I dine at or around 10:15 p.m. sometimes in Europe. Gordon Ramsay RHR in London has a number of 10:15 (or less commonly, even 10:30) reservations. It works out well for me because the restaurant is only open on a weekday, and my work hours are unpredictable. Since one has to make reservations in advance (1 month), I sometimes request a 10:15 to be sure I will be able to take in dinner there even if work ended being busy. Guy Savoy in Paris also has 10:30 reservations (and possibly later ones). One time, I secured such a reservation and asked the maitre d' to call me at my hotel in the event a table freed up earlier. I ended up beginning dinner at 10:00 p.m. When I dine late, I tend not to request multi-course tasting menus.

Beachfan -- The wine was alright -- not particularly interesting on the nose or in the mouth, but an appropriate accompaniment for the food. A very quick review of the Esca wine list suggested it offered at least predominantly, if not exclusively, Italian wines. The quartinos of white wine were priced in the approx. $11-25 range. Note my knowledge about Italian wines is extremely limited.

I had dinner at Esca's bar recently. The menu is identical to that for the restaurant; the approximately 10 seat bar is first-come first-served. Even though the meal included a comparison of sockeye and king salmon from the Copper River, it was only average and not necessarily good value-for-money. Below were the dishes taken in: -- Geoduck, Two-Minute Ceviche of Giant Clam with Chilis, Scallions and Mint ($13; part of the crudo section of the menu) -- 1/2 Polipo, Grilled Octupus with Giant Corona Beans and Preserved Sorrento Lemon (Around 11) -- 1/2 Copper River Sockeye, with Local Spinach and Larate Potatoes (29.99) -- 1/2 Copper River Red King, with Royal Trumpet Mushrooms and Roasted Spring Onion (31.00) Quartini (approx. 1/5 glasses) of Rodero Arneis Brovia 2000, from Piedmonte (13.00) The geoduck ceviche was average. (See "Geoduck" under "Canada" -- not linked). That the goeduck had been cut into relatively fine julienne did not assist the diner to sample the textural differences that are an important part, in my mind, of savouring geoduck -- a food product I like considerably (when sliced and cooked slightly due to very rapid immersion in bouillon). The EVOO utilized was somewhat too thick, resulting in a heaviness in the mouth of the ceviche and an uneasy melding with included lemon jus. The chilis were appropriately finely diced and mild, and the inclusion of mint could not be said to be inappropriate. However, the overall effect of the EVOO was a heaviness that was difficult to take in at the same time as the mint. Not a preparation that helped display the best qualities of geoduck. However, geoduck is not frequently found in NYC restaurants and Esca's inclusion of this item on its menu is a useful step presumably. The octupus dish was poor. There were presented three large tentacles with some portion of the suction pods attached. The octupus was overcooked, and had an unattractive "mushy" texture. In addition, there was too strong a taste of charring (with almost a burnt connotation) that was not balanced by the Sorrento lemons (not noticeable in the dish). The large beans were unusual-looking, although their taste was not atyical of white beans. My dining companion and I each ordered a different type of Copper River Salmon and then exchanged halves of the thick grilled fish filets. The dining room team member did a good job of informing diners of the limited duration (described as 2-3 weeks -- is this accurate?) and special aspects of the CRS season. See "Copper River Salmon" under "Pacific Northwest" for background on this salmon -- not linked. The CRS Red King my dining companion ordered was not particularly tasting, even though CRS is generally special. This was my first sampling of CRS Red King. Perhaps it was the cooking level (medium, higher than the medium rare recommended by the restaurant) my dining companion chose that adversely affected the sampling of the specialness of the CRS Red King flesh. It seemed somehow more like regular salmon than I had imagined. The royal trumpet mushrooms (in sections) were large and textured, but lacked the delicacy of, for example, black trumpets. I was slightly disappointed. The CRS sockeye I ordered was better, with features that distinguished it from regular salmon (including a natural, vibrantly reddish color, and some smoothness and butteriness). Nonetheless, the fish seemed almost rare in cooking level, instead of the agreed upon medium rare. I was happy I had ordered this dish, but it was not very appealing to me for some reason. :confused: Although I am ordinarily in support of simple cooking preparations that allow the flavor of products to express themselves, the CRS sockeye could have done with a bit extra in the grilling method and/or a bit more seasoning (nothing complicated, though). Overall, an average meal. Note that I intend to return to sample the flight of six crudos. Menu Observations As other members have noted, the crudos section of Esca's menu appears to contain more interesting items. On the evening of visit, there were three types of oysters (including Fanny Bay) offered in the crudos section (minimum purchase of six). The following crudo dishes were also offered: (1) pink snapper with red clay salt, (2) black bass with toasted pinenuts, (3) fluke with sea beans and radish, (4) Copper River King Salmon roe, with lemon, (5) Oregon Chinook salmon with dill, and (6) striped bass with Geata olive aioli. There is a crudo tasting of six types of crudos in two flights ($30/person, offered for the entire table). A preliminary inquiry suggested that, at the bar, the "entire table" rule may not require that all diners order the crudo tasting. There was a six-course tasting menu at $65 ($95 with wine pairings). In this context, for an additional $25, five extra crudo tastings could be obtained. Decor and Service The service at the bar was friendly. The seating in the bar area was not poor, with bar stools that had some back support and with a nice expanse of crushed ice on which were placed any oysters (in a row), etc., that were ordered. One's bottled water and glass containers with quartinos would be placed into the crushed ice as well. The overall decor is average. The primary room (the room without the bar) has somewhat better atmosphere (and is slightly less bright) than the other room.