cabrales

Andy -- Your post in another thread could be taken to suggest that Sketch may be up and running. Any updates, including on the exact nature of Gagnaire's involvement?

Sandra -- Approximately how many dumplings were included in the prix fixe assortment, if you recollect? On a la carte, there were generally 3 dumplings per order (except for the sharks' fin soup dumpling).

I had lunch at Gotham Bar & Grill recently. This meal was average, and marked, ironically, the end of my boycott of this restaurant. The boycott resulted from the restaurant's having cancelled my December 31, 1999 dinner reservation with only a few weeks to spare. The restaurant had required several months previously that I sign a contract promising to pay for the meal regardless of actual attendance, but decided to close that evening due to inadequate requests for reservations. The restaurant offered nothing for the untimely cancellation. I would have thought that a comp'd meal would have been in order. I'd have to admit that the $20.02 prix fixe lunch tempted me a bit. I had the following (brackets denote dishes not chosen): -- Gotham Soup, Composed Daily [Gotham Caesar Salad, garlic croutons and anchovy vinaigrette] -- Roast Atlantic Salmon, leeks, shiitake mushrooms and potato puree [Cremini Mushroom Pasta, fresh goat cheese, wilted baby arugula and EVOO] -- Chocolate Cake, served with vanilla ice cream [selection of sorbets, composed daily] 1/2 Puligny-Montrachet, Sauzet 1999 ($55) The meal began well. My dining companion and I shared an a la carte order of the Chicken, Foie Gras and Morel Mushroom Terrine, haricots verts, green lentil salad, pickled onion and port glaze ($16.50). The restaurant split the dish in advance, offering each diner a generous slice of the terrine. The terrine tasted good. I tend to like chicken/foie gras combinations in terrine, and the morels, while limited in quantity, were integrated into the terrine nicely (with the patterns on the exterior of the mushrooms evident in the terrine). I did not like the even limited utilization of crunchy pistacchios in the terrine, but that is a subjective assessment. The port reduction, placed in dots surrounding the slice of terrine, was appropriate. The contrast in the two very types of beans was nice too, even though both were accompanied by acidityl. The haricots vert were much more "vegetable"-like, than the lentils, which had a nuttiness as well as very slight meat-like connotations. The mauve-stained pickled onions were presented in a swirl-like disc (rolled up). My soup from the $20.02 menu was fairly good. That day of visit, it was braised chicken with tomatoes concasse and cous cous in chicken broth. While the strands of chicken included were limited, this was appropriate. The soup tasted nicely of vegetables as well as chicken, and had connotations of home cooking and comfort food. I had been surprised by the dining room team member's mention of cous cous being included in the soup, but the individual grains were larger than those of any cous cous I have sampled. They tasted, and visually resembled, a grain that the Chinese called "yee mai" (a bit gelatinous and starchy in the mouth, not unlike tapioca, although more attractive than tapioca). Perhaps it is a cous cous relative (?). Unfortunately, the ensuing dishes were so-so. I chose the salmon, which I have taken at the restaurant previously more than five times over time (not because I like it particularly, but because other dishes might be less attractive at the point of odering). I asked that the salmon be cooked rare instead of medium rare, as the restaurant tends to do. The fish was not particularly tasty. The potato puree was appropriate, with significant butter tastes. A white-wine and butter based saucing was utilized. The flourless chocolate cake included in the $20.02 menu was not sufficiently rich-tasting. It was also slightly too sweet, with no offsetting bitterness or intensity from the chocolate showing through. The small scoop of Tahitian vanilla ice cream, with black dots from the vanilla pods, was appropriate. Overalll, an average meal, with some items that were good and others that were not. Nonethless, a good value if one adheres to the $20.02 prix fixe lunch. Note the $20.02 prix fixe lunch is served Monday through Friday, 12:00-2:30 pm year-round. -- 2002 Prix Fixe Lunch Wine Menu (Not taken) Unlike certain other restaurants with $20.02 lunches, Gotham also has a less expensive wine list. It is unclear to me whether diners not taking the $20.02 lunch may opt for the $20.02 wine list, however. (1) Sample Three Wines by the Glass for Another $20.02 (3 oz Pour) Whites NV Alfred Gratien "Brut Classique", Epernay, France 2000 Kistler "Les Noisetiers" Chardonnay, Sonoma, CA 1997 Gravner "Breg", Colllio, Italy Reds 1997 Voge "Vielles Fontaines" Cornas, Rhone, France 1998 Arietta Merlot, Napa, CA 1997 Ratti "Rocche" Barolo, Piedmont, Italy Dessert Wines NV Yalumba "Galway Pipe", Tawny Porto, Australia 1997 Alaiin Brumont "Brumaire", Pacherenc du Vic Bilh, France (2) Half Bottles (Still $20.02) White 2000 Gini Soave Classico, Soave, Itally 2000 Willakenzie Pinot Blanc, Willamette Valley, Oregon 200 Tempier Bandol Rose, Southwest France Reds 1999 Domaine Roger Perrin Chateauneuf du Pape, Southern Rhone 1995 La Rioja Alta "Vina Ardanza" Reserva Rioja, Rioja, Spain 1998 Domaine Paul Bernard Fleurie, Beaujolais, France (3) Full Bottles (Still $20.02) Whites 2000 Lang Gruner Veltliner, Burgenland, Austria 1999 Echeverria Sauvignon Blanc, Molina, Chile 200 Macon-Prisse, Burgundy, France Reds 2000 Capezzana Barco Reale di Carmignano, Tuscany, Italy 2000 Avinyo Merlot, Penedes, Spain 1999 Pissano Tannat, Uruguay -- Decor, Service As members may know, the service at Gotham is friendly and efficient. The regular wine list is not inexpensive. I like the decor at the restaurant less now that significant parts of the walls have been painted a medium, muted pink. Before I boycotted the restaurant, I believe the walls had been predominantly white or a similar color, and had had a more "cool" (meaning less warm, in a positive way) feel. I continue to like the pleated, draped fabric around the lighting and above the bar area. And the white-colored statue of liberty-based artwork is nice in today's climate. -- Other Items on Lunch A La Carte Menu (Note Dinner Menu Differs) Appetizers ($9.50-16.50) Goat cheese ravioli, morel mushroom broth and parmigiano reggiano Gotham pasta, composed and priced daily Gotham salad, mixed lettuces, aged sherry vinegar and EVOO Goat cheese salad, beets, braised fennel, hazelnuts, orange and EVOO Gotham soup, composed daily Chicken, foie gras and morel mushroom terrinel, haricots verts, green lentil salad, pickled onion and port glaze Fennel cured atlantic salmon, lettuces, sunchokes, radish and cracked wheat salad Yellow fin tuna tartare, herb salad, cucumber, lime, scallion and ginger Asparagus Salad, organic greens, quail eggs and baby beets Entrees ($17.00 - 21.50) Grilled Atlantic salmon, roasted fennel, confit tomatoes, spinach and lemon oil Roast Chatham line caught cod, Manila clams, steamed spinach, potatoes and pancetta Seared tuna, roasted portabellos, white runners, mixed lettuces and mushroom vinaigrette Soft shell crabs, fingerling potato salad, ratatouille, shell beans and lemon vinaigrette Roast halibut, morel mushrooms, potato, ramps, English peas and chevril Sweet prawn and baby artichoke risotto, proscuitto di Parma, lemon and chevril butter Grilled duck sausage, green runner beans, watercress and eggplant caviar Moroccan spiced rack of lamb, couse cous, chick peas and preserved lemon Roast chicken breast, wild mushrooms, creamy polenta and white truffle oil Grilled hanger stake, crisp potatoes and "creamed" spinach and roasted garlic custard

Jinmyo -- On the use of mushrooms in dim sum, matsutake (Chinese) mushroom (likely originally dried) is sliced into small juliennes and inserted into dumplings' insides (together with other ingredients) for dumplings at times. However, I agree that some dim sum places could better cater to the needs of those interested in sampling mushrooms. DSGG has a section on its dim sum menu for vegetarian dumplings, consisting of: Bamboo Heart Dumpling, Three Star Dumpling, Rice Noodle Dumplings, Snow Pea Leaf Dumplings, Chinese Parsley Dumplings, Green Dumplings, Soy Bean Dumplings, Abbott's Delight, Spinach Dumplings and Mushroom Dumplings. Each is $3.25 during dinner, $2.25 during lunch. DSGG offered Stuffed Mushrooms (likely stuffed with shrimp) at $3.95 during dinner, $2.65 during lunch. DSGG does offer turnip cake, although these items are not steamed and are fried ($3.25 during dinner, $2.25 during lunch). On DSGG, members should note that the quality of the non-dim sum items is not being addressed by my posts. robert brown, Susan and I took in the meal at DSGG together. It appeared that robert and Susan enjoyed the dim sum there as well. On other mushrooms, Liza and I were discussing in this thread how cremini appear underrepresented on NYC restaurant menus. Cremini Mushroom Pasta, fresh goat cheese, wilted baby arugula and EVOO, was among the entree selections (not taken) for Gotham Bar & Grill's $20.02 Prix Fixe lunch. Write-up to come on the NY board.

Basildog -- Do you have problems with theft of pepper mills?

Today's NYT (Metro Section) contains an article on wine auctions, and the prices that certain buyers are willing to pay. For example, a 1961 Dom Perignon magnum bottled for Earl Spencer and prepared in 1981 to mark the Charles/Diana union was sold for $5,750.

Jinmyo -- The dumplings at DSGG were the best I have sampled in NYC as far as dim sum dumplings go (leaving aside Joe Shanghai soup dumplings with pork and crabmeat). robert brown and others on the board have previously mentioned this restaurant. Note my coverage of NYC dim sum restaurants is limited. The sampled items included Dumpling Soup with Shark Fin ($6.95 for dinner; $1 less for lunch; one order serves one diner). This item was good, with a single large dumpling immersed in nicely flavored chicken soup. As at other restaurants, the sharks' fin was included in extremely small quantities and this dish should not be ordered by a diner interested in sampling sharks' fin. A comforting and tasty dish. Note DSGG offers a steamed dim sum called Shark Fin Dumplings; diners interested in the soup-based item should be careful not to order the smaller, different steamed dumplings. Noteworthy dumplings included Duck Dumplings (nice restraint in the limited utilization of duck, cast against diced vegetables; still offered good duck flavors; $3.95 during dinner; $2.65 during lunch), and Chinese Parsley Dumplings (aromatic and pristine; same price). Other items sampled were (1) Three Star Dumplings (a visually beautiful, light pink-artificially-colored dumpling with water chestnuts, which you may recollect I dislike and which you like; same price), (2) Chives and Shrimp Dumpling (same price), and (3) Chicken and Sticky Rice In Lotus Leaves (same price). The dipping sauces were better than the average Chinese dim sum restaurant, and consisted of (1) a vinegar-based sauce with garlic and red chilli, (2) a ginger and spring onion-based sauce, and (3) strands of spiced dried seafood (likely including fish and tiny shrimp). Background The decor is nice relative to other Chinese restaurants in NYC Chinatown. The use of a clean white, with sheaths of burgundy-colored, thin cloth and burgundy-colored depictions of people and scenery patterned after historical Chinese design styles. The service is better than the average Chinese restaurant in Chinatown.

I'm glad Jon mentioned "crumbing down". I do appreciate that step. However, I find myself picking up large crumbs (if any) (and placing them on my bread plate, if it is still there, or sweeping them discreetly onto the floor, which I recognize is an unhelpful practice to the restaurant) before the waiter arrives to remove the crumbs. I do not generally leave many crumbs, and tend not to have to pick up any. I doubt I am picking up crumbs because I believe the dining room service team would frown upon excessive crumbs, but am further considering what (apart from habit) is prompting my practice. On a related point, do members care if they leave sauce marks or otherwise dirty the tablecloth? I do not generally leave many marks, but some large marks do bother me for some reason.

Adam -- When you have a chance, please indicate where in DC you viewed the cherry works. While I have yet to visit Michel Trama at Puymirol, France, I believe he has at times used cherry motifs to decorate his menu. I particularly like Ranier cherries when they are at their peak (apparently, not currently for NY, based on samplings). They have strong yellowish, orangish aspects to their skin.

Jinmyo -- Thanks The enokis were the only item I prepared on my own last night. I had purchased hen of the woods and thought about cooking them in a different, butter-based preparation. However, I was too full to make the second preparation. I had already taken in very good dumplings at Dim Sum Go Go (212-732-0797). Note it was my first visit to DSGG, and I did not sample non-dim sum dishes.

mogsob -- Thanks for your input. On the NY 2002 lunch at Aureole, members should note it is only available from 2:00 p.m. onwards. It is unclear to me whether the menu for the NY2002 lunch may change over time.

I prepared enoki tonight, sauced with white wine, garlic, and finely-ground black peppercorns. The dish would have been better without the inclusion of peppercorns and with less wine (I used residual Macon from J Drouhin I was drinking). I let the enoki simmer in the wine for a while. The enoki had bulbous tops -- the largest I recollect seeing. This was not the first time I had prepared mushrooms. Previously, I had utilized the fat inherent in duck rilettes, olive oil and the rilettes themselves to produce a liquid for cooking chanterelles. That had turned out better than today's enoki.

I would appreciate members' input on how lunch at Ducasse differs from dinner there, leaving aside distinctions that are inherent to the two meals. Is the lowest prix fixe lunch still $65?

Stefany -- Thanks for coordinating on the potluck. When you have a chance, please consider posting the expected menu. Also, please confirm that participants would be bringing their own wine or other beverage.

Yes, I believe the tables right next to the length of windows are the preferred ones. First, very generally (and with exceptions), each two tables in the "front row" have semi-see-through white screens separating it from other tables in the front row (although not from tables behind it in the "back row"). Second, there is no blockage from viewing the changing light in the sky and landscape surrounding the hotel/restaurant. Third, depending on which table one is seated at in the back row, one's own food may or may not come from the back as well. However, if one is in the back row, one would generally be able to view diners in the front row being served. Note that there are not sufficient sofas in the lounge near the entryway to the hotel/restaurant for all the tables in a service. This is a wonderful area in which to sit and take the amuses. Members should consider this in determining what time to arrive at the restaurant for a meal or what time to leave their M Bras rooms for a meal. If members do not obtain seating in the lounge before a meal, mention it to one of the principal members of the dining room service team (e.g., M Bras' daughter-in-law -- the young blonde, elegant woman not in uniform) that you would appreciate seating there after dinner.

My sentiments exactly. Not only do I doubt that copiers (or even successors executing an identical recipe) would necessarily be able to replicate the subtle balances in a signature dish, but also how would a diner know that the "copier" is being faithful to the original without sampling the original in its intended context? I have to admit that I enjoy sampling copiers' dishes, but, significantly, not as a substitute for the original. More as a comparison of how different chefs might implement a concept or provide balance to the same ingredients. For example, taking butter poached lobster, it has to be taken at some point in time at T Keller's. I do like sampling the same dish at different restaurants, and comparing the different versions.

Cherries are my favorite fruit (together with blood orange and peeled green grapes). Do members utilize cherries in non-dessert recipes? What types of cherries do members prefer?

Two other noteworthy restaurants included in the ABC card for which Liz furnished a link are Loiseau's La Cote d'Or and the Le Cerf restaurant. On the latter, at least as of the time the book "Atelier d'Alain Senderens" was published several years ago, the chef at Le Cerf was considered by Senderens to be among his five best pupils. I haven't checked the latest G-M rating or the Michelin status of Le Cerf (at least one star and possibly two), but the 2001 G-M furnished a rating of 17/20 for Michel Husser (Senderens' pupil). Marleheim is 24 miles or km (?) from Strasbourg, according to G-M. Dishes described by G-M include: "choucroute au cochon de lait" (cabbage Alsatian style with milk-fed pig), and "foie gras fume" (smoked foie gras). G-M noted that Husser excels at preparing fish as well. This restaurant has been of interest to me because one goal I have is sampling the cuisine of material Senderen sous-chefs, including Dominic LeStanc (at Le Merende, sic, in Nice; also in the Atelier book), Husser, Eric Coisel (sic, at one-starred Chiberta in Paris -- nice food), Scotta Khunn (sic, I assume has returned from Cambodia; what is his current role with Le Cirque -- is it non-cuisinier?; also in the Atelier book). If members are aware of other (non-three-star) restaurants run by Senderens' former sous-chefs, please let me know.

On Cote Saint-Jacques, I wonder if the dining rooms have greater capacity now they they have been moved across the road. I visited after the move. Speaking of that facility, if members are interested in staying in Joigny without paying CSJ room prices, the Loraine family (I believe a sister of J-M) also operates a hotel/motel-like facility across the river from CSJ. As other members mentioned, there are also less expensive, Guerard-run properties at Eugenie-Les-Bains (e.g., Ferme des Grives, Maison Rose?).

wingding's input leads to the question of what members think about non-Japanese restaurants with some or all of their kitchen areas visible to seated diners. Examples of this in London include: River Cafe, Eyre Brothers (limited area in the back), St John.

Visiting top French patissiers' shops can be relatively low cost and rewarding. Some even have savory items (e.g., certain sandwiches at Pierre Herme; Peltier has certain Conticini savory creations). While I have not executed this plan, a wonderful meal would be to have those savory items, plus one or two desserts purchased at the same time, with a 1/2 bottle of white from the Rhone or Loire (or water, for the very budget conscious). Other ideas -- 71 euros for a prix fixe special lunch at three-starred Grand Vefour (I know that's not necessarily inexpensive). Poilane's bread with a blue.

Junior -- If you are comfortable discussing it, what was working at Bacchus like? Also, what are your views on the quality of the restaurant's cuisine and what are its signature dishes (if any)? (I have never visited)

In general, decor and the space surrounding me are not particularly important to me. That being said, if a restaurant has particularly ravishing decor (subjective assessment) and subdued (in moderation) lighting, those factors would be a bonus. In NY, Cello offered the type of decor I like because it has (1) elements of burgundy, my favorite color, in the wood paneling, (2) Arman sculptures of musical instruments, (3) tempered lighting, (4) no gold or silver highlights that are prominent, and (5) a room that is not enormous. I like Arman sculptures displayed beautifully (in contrast to the ones at Michel Rostang, which are not so displayed). In London, I liked the decor at Petrus before the recent change in wallpaper and the other recent adjustments. It too featured burgundy prominently. Lighting is relevant. I prefer moderate lighting -- not too bright. I am very sensitive to background music. I am also sensitive to the amount of space one has above one's seat and below one's table (i.e., it should be sufficient to cross one's legs). Recently, I had a problem at Michel Bras and also at Lumiere's bar in Vancouver, where there was insufficient space. This problem sometimes exists with banquettes. I do not particularly care where my table is located, although I tend to receive good tables. Exceptions include restaurants defined in part by the view offered (e.g., Tour d'Argent in Paris -- I sat in the lower part of the restaurant, but not adjacent to the window), and restaurants with views of landscapes that are claimed to inspire the cuisine (e.g., Michel Bras, which essentially has two "rows" of tables -- one being in front of the windows). For example, although some complain about L'Ambroisie's "back room" and I have not yet been seated there, it would not bother me if I were. In sum, decor and the physical environment are a plus when they are appealing, but largely insignificant relative to cuisine considerations. In general, Michelin three- and two-star restaurants tend to have a certain threshold of decor that more than suffices in my assessment. An extreme example of my emphasis on cuisine is Joe Shanghai, Manhattan Chinatown. I recently enjoyed Shanghainese soup dumplings with crabmeat there during lunch-hour. I had to sit at a communal round table. Nonetheless, I was happy to take in the soup dumplings. I could have chosen the West 56th branch of Joe Shanghai, which has better decor and service, but thought nothing of the physical environment.

Speaking of discounts, the Relais & Chateaux website offers a number of promotional offers for room plus restricted meals at certain interesting restaurants. There are differing levels of offers (denoted by Gold, Silver, etc.) Have members sampled what types of meals are included under the R&C offers at applicable restaurants?

Keller's Sweet Butter Braised Maine Lobster with Baby Arrowleaf Spinach and a Saffron-Vanilla Sauce is on the cover of the current edition (Volume 21-05) of Food & Beverage International. In the recipe for the dish, Keller notes: "[A] method and substance called beurre monte -- a way of infusing meats and fish with the flavor of butter. We cook in it, rest meats in it, makes sauces with it. . . . . Lobster poached in beurre monte . . . reminds me of Maine lobster that you eat with drawn butter . . . ." The magazine also contains other excerpts on butter poached lobster: "[C]ooking the exterior layer of the flesh, just enough so that it will pull cleanly away from the shell, leaving the interior raw. This allows us to treat the lobster as we would raw fish. . . Once you make the initial lobster-butter connection, which takes you back to your very first experience with lobster, you can put it with so many different garnishes: beets and leeks, peas and carrots, figs, foie gras."