cabrales

Mark -- Looks good. Can you describe a bit the items inside the salmon wrapping?

I visited the Christian Constant chocolate shop in Paris a while ago. There is a little tea salon (12 seats) that is simple, next to the main shop. Note there appears to be no relationship to the chef of Violin d'Ingres (?). I selected pastries and chocolates from the main shop, and these were brought to the tea salon for sampling. Constant defines himself more as a chocolate-maker than a patissier, like Pierre Herme (although a good portion of Herme's selections include chocolate). Constant offered a wide selection of patisseries, mostly containing chocolate (in every case, dark chocolate): (1) “Sonia Rykiel” (Tarte fondant au chocolate banane-braiche, 3.35 euros): A slight acidity from cross-sectional slices of firm, mini bananas. These slices were abundant, and formed a small ring on the top of the tart, which had a nicely thick crust and a high rim. The gooey chocolate inside the tart was creamy and had some banana taste as well. This was a nice creation by Constant. (2) “Fleurs de Chine” (China Flower; mousse legere de chocolate amer, creme croustillante de the vert au jasmin): This is one of Contant’s signature creations. It is a dark chocolate covered square structure, with a chocolate fan and the Constant logo on a gold little label on top. There are three primary layers, on top of a cake base. Two layers consisted of chocolate; the other was excellent – subtle and flavorful at the same time. Such green tea layer was perfumed and more refined than the green tea flavor in green tea ice cream offered at many Japanese restaurants. Of the three items sampled, this was the best. (3) Praline Chocolat (Creme chocolate et creme parlinee caramelisse aux noisette): This was nice, being comprised of two layers, each with a chocolate cake-like (somewhat soft) crust at the bottom. The top layer was yellow-colored and appeared to have slight browning and caramel effects on its surface. On top of that surface were a single almond, praline, small hazelnut and the Christian Constant sign. The second layer was chocolate. In between the two layers was apparently a gooey mixture of hazelnut and cinnamon and sugar – moist and crunchy. I had the above with Moka d’Ethiopie, described as a savage and perfumed coffee! I also bought small chocolates from the shop for sampling: Ganache au The Earl Grey (ganache with earl grey tea); Roses et Raisins de Corinthe (rose and corinthean raisings); Safran en fils (threads of saffron); Cardamone de Malabar (cardamon from Malabar). None had the ingredients separately visible to the eye; all had the ingredients integrated into the chocolate. I’m not a big fan of dark chocolate, so, while nice-tasting, these items were not particularly impressive. Other dark chocolate flavors included: Fangipanier flowers; Ylang Ylang des Comores (a flower from Comores); Jasmin du Yemen et The Vert (jasmin from Yemen and green tea); Ganache au Café Fort (ganache of strong coffee). Overall, it's hard for me to place Constant relative to his peers. First, I have not sampled meaningfully Parisian chocolatiers' works, including J-P Hevin. (Perhaps magnolia or other members could advise) Second, I do not believe I would be capable of detecting subtle differences in the context of dark chocolate. If members happen to be in the 6th arrondisement, however, C Constant might be worth a quick visit. 37 rue d’Assas, 6e, M° St-Placide, tel: 01 53 63 15 15. Background -- Certain Poilane breads, a variety of salads (pasta; squid; marinated mussels; chick peas; chicken salad), and roasted farm chicken were also available. Ice cream was offered in 5-7 rotating varieties. The day I visited, one flavor was a wonderful almond milk; another (not sampled) was coconut. Christian Constant also sells jams made by his shop. The chocolate bars available included (square brackets for not-yet translated country names; none sampled): Pure Pate sans sucre, 100% cacao (5.35 euros) Bitter-Plus (80% cacao, Venezuela) Monteserrat’s Plantations (73%, Trinidad) Cuba (70%) Madong (70%, from [Papouasie]) Carupano (70%, Venezuela) Guanaja (70%, blend from Antilles and Central America) Extra bitter (66%, very roasted blend) Pur Trinitario (66%, Trinidad, Tobago and Grenada) Pur Criollo (64%, Madagascar, Ceylan) Guayaquil (64%, [Equateur] -- is this Equador, sic?) Grand Caraque (59.5%, Venezuela; also available with dried fruit) Lait Amer (64%, also with dried fruit) Chocolat Blanc

Apologies for my ignorance, but I'd appreciate a very brief description of what the Indian chaat terms mentioned in prior posts in this thread refer to.

Does any member have a collection of Iron Chef episode videos? There are a couple of battles for which I would be interested in getting copies.

Miss J -- I haven't made the trip yet (later this year), but many thanks for the suggestions!

Patrice -- I have visited neither the Compagnie des Comptoirs in Montpellier nor the more recent one in Avignon (where my sense is that that facility would not be among my first choices necessarily, without having visited). I wonder what the quality of the Avignon place might be, given that it is presumably more difficult for the Pourcels to directly supervise than the Montpellier arm. Anyhow, I have thought about the Montpellier arm because it might be open 7 days a week (?), unlike Jardin.

He posts here and has his own long standing site devoted to restaurants in France and the UK. Bux -- What is Graham's user name?

Steve P -- Thanks for an interesting post. On discussing negative aspects of a restaurant, I probably provide such discussion on the board more than some. I'm not posting now out of defensiveness, but out of a desire to highlight the potential value, in my mind at least, of hearing negative comments about *specific* aspects of a restaurant experience. If one has meaningful standards, there must be many restaurants that do not meet them. I try to write up an experience at a less ambitious restaurant differently than I would, say, a three-star (and a assessment that a meal was "very good" or "average" would mean somewhat different things depending on context). However, even if a restaurant presents itself as being at a certain level, the weaknesses in, as well as the favorable aspects of, a meal experience should be vetted. Part of the reason I believe negative comments are helpful is that diners have subjective preferences, and a write-up that gushes and tells me how wonderful an experience was (without details and without mention of the less desirable aspects of the same experience) is not going to be as informative. I wouldn't go so far as to say that negatives should be highlighted, but neither should positives be showcased. And when one has a meal that one perceives as having no negatives, one's unequivocal endorsement of the restaurant and the meal would become more meaningful to others in this community who have seen a pattern of tempered reactions to other restaurants. That's, of course, only my own take on things.

Winot -- The hotel is modern and has attractive lines, and not particularly expensive for what it is. Clearly a good choice with respect to accomodations if you would otherwise be in Montpellier. With respect to hotels associated with a three-star, second only to Troigros (note I have not visited Michel Bras yet). Rooms begin at Euros 150, according to the website. I am not a big fan of the Pourcels' cooking -- too many ingredients in a dish, without any need for that (not that my assessment should be accorded weight; e.g., I also dislike Gagnaire's cuisine). However, I have had two meals there during the last year and may take in another one before June. (I happen to be stopping by Montpellier, and am not going there in order to visit the restaurant, but instead to drive to M Bras) lizziee has mentioned somewhere in this forum that she was not particularly enamored of her meal at Jardin either. However, my sense is that, for most three-stars, it's worth it to at least sample the cuisine once. If you were to take that approach, you have nothing to lose. Also, note that Jardin is not particularly expensive as far as three-stars go. Their website remains in French, but is a good way to get a feel for the rooms and the place. See also the Relais & Chateaux pictures below: http://www.relaischateaux.com/site/us/Fich...Code=jardinsens If you are interested in tasting notes, I do not have them with me currently. Below is the restaurant site's indicative prix fixe menus: http://www.jardin-des-sens.com/menus.htm (beginning at Euro 46 for lunch Tues-Fri, except holidays; other menus are at Euro 90 or 122 for many dishes). Let me know if you are interested in menu translations. Also, as you may know, there is a convenient TGV from Paris to Montpellier, if your trip involves a stay in Paris.

Bux -- I have thought about the subjectivity of restaurant and cuisine preferences some in recent days. This led to greater concern on my part regarding detrimental reliance by other members on my explicit or implicit recommendations: Click here. I will continue to think about the matter a bit more.

ajay -- I am fortunate enough to also not have to take cholerestol and other limiting factors into account. I recognize I won't be able to eat and drink with abandon the way I am, at future points in time. I do worry a bit about the potential for weight gain, although that has not yet affected me materially so far. Of course, I could exercise regularly to offset some of these potentially negative effects, but I don't. There is even a gym in my building, but that has not helped.

Samantha -- I just noticed from the Calendar that today is your birthday. Wishing you progress towards achieving the things that are worthwhile to you

Speaking of liver, BON or other members, do Japanese people tend to eat fish liver other than monkfish and fugu? I recently had a liver of cod at a friend's place, and it was very yummy (not at all reminiscent of cod liver oil). Leads on fish liver sampling (incl. monkfish liver) in NYC, London or Paris would be appreciated. Liza -- How have you and B Edulis prepared monkfish liver? Of course, I don't know how to get them. I've had them on blinis at a friend's place, and that simple preparation was nice (since the livers were sufficiently fresh).

Chef Hawksworth has significant pedigree -- sous-chef at each of The Square and Raymond Blanc's Manoir au Quat' Saison (also Michelin two-starred, and striving, although probably in vain, for a third), and chef at L'Escargot.

Bux -- Why might you think the second part of the "palate" -- the ability to discern flavors -- might not be developed as one tasted a range of flavors, alone or in different combinations, and as one tasted the same flavor with greater frequency? How might one know if one has this second part of palate sufficiently? Also, in your mind (1) how much of this second part of palate is dependent on one's sense of smell, rather than the sensations in the mouth, and (2) if you are interested in discussing it, how has this part of your palate changed over time?

I received an e-mail from the Top Table reservations service, with an offer from Embassy (booking through that site required): "Receive 25% off the food bill available Monday -Wednesday for dinner plus enjoy their set menu for lunch (2 courses £16.95, 3 courses £19.95) Monday - Friday. Offer ends 29th May. For more info and bookings click here:" http://www.toptable.co.uk/Details.cfm?rcode=B337 I cannot determine whether the above is a good deal with respect to lunch, for example.

pirate -- Please do tell.

Bux -- I agree wholeheartedly that what one chooses what confers pleasure. While at one point in time, the latest handbag or a non-food holiday might have brought me some temporary satisfaction and I spent considerable time shopping for non-food items, I no longer want to travel to places without decent restaurants and no longer shop for clothing (except in response to an identifable need). It is now quite clear how I should be allocating my personal free time. Is it likely that a diner's palate, with certain exceptions no doubt, is not generally something inherent with which one is "born"? For me, a diner's palate needs to be coaxed and nursed. (Certain people may have better senses of taste or smell, etc. than others, and may be intrinsically better able at detecting flavor combinations and cooking creatively than others.) However, I have found, even over the course of certain past periods and without suggesting any particular level to be clear, that my palate has improved to a marked extent. I have been interested in restaurants and food for some time, but added exposure to cuisine in my narrow area of preference (French restaurants in France) has aided me considerably. Although I never intended it as such, the exposure had, in hindsight, arguably an "investment" aspect to it. A happy byproduct, since I was choosing to spend my earned money on restaurants while merely focusing on the more direct benefits of the restaurant experiences themselves. While (unintended) "investments" in one's palate are not linear and may take some time to realize, they may be reaped under certain circumstances, in my assessment, even though they can never be counted on to materialize.

Steve P -- Thanks for your description of the scallops/uni dish. When you have a chance, could you compare the uni in the dish to the fresh sea urchin one might have in season in France? Where do you guess the uni at UP might be from? On lunch selections, I have eaten during past summers at UP for slightly under USD 20. The menu selections were very limited, but it is nonetheless UP cuisine. I vaguely remember a tasty dish with beef marrow (not available as part of said prix fixe lunches).

Samantha -- I wasn't sure which Saturday "next Saturday" referred to. If it has passed, a belated Happy Anniversary (I hope you received champagne, of course)

Gavin -- I can't remember the details, but that dessert wine was a good pairing with the bread and butter pudding. A bit like a Sauternes on the nose, but without the thickness/weight in the mouth of a Sauterne like d'Yquem (one of my pet peeves with respect to dessert wines -- the "feel" in the mouth). I liked the Verdots '97, and it was the first time, to my knowledge at least, that I had had a Verdots.

col klink -- Geoduck is a tasty enough product for me to have started a thread about it(click here) a while ago. The linked website contains a picture too.

conrad -- I use newspaper restaurant reviews and Web-based reviews (including eGullet write-ups) with some frequency. In my mind, they supplement guide books and fulfill significant functions of which guide books may be incapable: (1) Timeliness of Reviews. This has been discussed by others in this thread. For example, Hiramatsu, Paris was not even included in the Gault-Millau Guide for 2002. To take London examples, I'm not sure many guide books include locanda locatelli (I haven't checked specifically, though). Similarly, when the Gordon Ramsay-supervised restaurant opens at The Connaught later this year or when Sketch opens (expected shortly still?) with Pierre Gagnaire's involvement, there would be some multi-month period during which it would not be included in guide books. This generally happened with places like Nahm, Mju, Providores Tapas and Grill, the now defunct Conrad Gallagher, etc. I don't know whether Neat at OXO made it into a significant percentage of the guide books for one edition, but people relying solely on guide books may not have eaten at that uneven restaurant. The restaurant had a beautiful view, particularly if one were seated at certain tables, and, while offering uneven food, had a very good smoked foie gras appetizer. A final example is timely coverage by restaurant reviews of changes to restaurants. This weekend's Giles Coren column addressed the imminent redecoration of The Connaught, and its coming under Gordon Ramsay direction. Such news would not be timely captured in an annual guide. An added source of value from the presumably recent nature of a restaurant reviewer's visit is that one may have a better sense of the dishes available recently at the restaurant. If I read a review and a described dish is enticing, in general I have a better chance of being able to sample it than if I utilized a guide book. (2) Level of detail/Flexibility of format. Even taking the case of the typical AA Gill or Giles Coren review (when over 1/2 of the discussion might be on matters arguably non-food-related, although some connection is attempted to be established with the food), there is more detail than certain guide books (e.g., Zagat, Michelin Red Guide). For example, Michelin Red Guide France only contains 2-3 sentences of description (leaving aside the inclusion of certain tasty dishes) on each restaurant, and spends at least 50% of that space describing the decor. While Gault-Millau and certain other guides provide more description, a restaurant review can furnish a general "feel" for the restaurant's atmosphere and service, and could, under certain circumstances, provide greater detail on the cuisine offered. In other words, there is a more flexible format with respect to content in a restaurant review. Because guide books are supposed to provide the same general format for different restaurant entries, there may be inherent constraints in how much weight or discussion is allocated to different parts of the restaurant experience in a guide book. Indeed, certain guide books mandate specific weight to specific factors in computing an overall quantitative assessment of a restaurant. Certain reviewers might do that too (incl., apparently, Giles Coren), but others do not. (3) Inclusion of Pictures. While some pictures included in restaurant review columns (e.g., Giles Coren or A A Gill's appearances) are not at all helpful, others are quite informative of what a diner can expect from a restaurant. These are typically pictures of the dining room itself. For example, this weekend's Gill column featured the Clerkenwell Dining Room. I have seen pictures of locanda locatelli's space that are quite informative as well. Jay Rayner's column this weekend had a descriptive picture of an Asian bouillabaisse-type dish. Guide books do not generally furnish pictures (except for, for example, Relais & Chateaux).

See the sample menu at Ouest in Vancouver for another example of the utilization of Canadian regional ingredients: Click here.

I was wondering the same thing myself, although it's too early to say.