cabrales

I had a poor lunch at Aureole recently. The cuisine was not appealing, and the service was sub-par. The price was rather reasonable, with a four-course monthly "Market Luncheon" priced at $35 (no choices available for any non-dessert course; significant choice of dessert; $55 with wine pairings for the three non-dessert courses). However, if the cuisine does not make the grade, price becomes irrelevant. :confused: May Market Luncheon (1) Chesapeake Crab with Tiny Asparagus, bouillabaisse gelee -- The crab strands placed in a mound in this dish were bland, and not particularly fresh tasting (although I would not say they were intrinsically poor in quality). A large shrimp, with the shell removed, was included in the dish and it too was bland and so-so. There was a green-colored olive oil infused with herbs in the saucing, and a yellow-colored gelee of bouillabaisse that did not bring to mind the intensity one would expect of a well-executed bouillabaisse. The yellow color likely came from saffron. This was paired with Riseling, Kabinet, Gynasium, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer 1999. (2) Roasted Black Sea Bass, confit of ramps, golden beet reduction -- It is a poor reflection on the meal that the best dish of the meal was a so-so sea bass dish. Note I do not particularly like ramps. The fairly thick golden beet reduction was a bit too sweet for my liking, and the other component of the saucing, a thinner beetroot reduction, did not alleviate this. The bass was appropriately prepared. Overall, an average, properly executed dish. This was paired with a white from Southern France. (3) Shallot Crusted Veal Loin, parmesan flan, braised Oregon morels -- This dish was poor. Not only was the veal overcooked (the cooking level described to me was medium rare, but the flesh was more cooked than medium), thereby producing a harsher texture and contributing to the toughness of the meat, but the morels had an unusual sense in the mouth of having been coated with something (I am not indicating they had been). The red wine reduction was mundane, although the parmesan flan (soft, with a thin pastry disc on top) was passable. The Nuits St-Georges offered with this dish was more enjoyable than the food. (4) Aureole Desserts -- I took in a dessert featuring three different components: (a) a terrine of angle food cake and lemon cream, served in medium-sized triangular slices (this was fine, although not sufficiently tart for my subjective tastes), (b) a lemon-thyme flan (the creme caramel type -- below-average), and © blueberry sorbet (too starkly flavored). Overall, nothing special. "Service" and other Background The decor is fine. I liked the burgundy-brown carpets near the entryway, and have always liked the upstairs part of the restaurant better. The day of visit, I was seated near the railing in the upstairs area. This was to offer amusing opportunities for embarassing restaurant experiences. For some reason, I spilled a glass over the railings onto the ground floor entryway. (The railings are next to open space which is near the large etchings on the restaurant's walls of swans). Some of the (thankfully, white) wine became absorbed by the carpet, but other amounts of it spilled onto marble. Concerned that other diners would slip from the liquid and preferring that a large napkin be placed over the spill on my table, I immediately notified the maitre d' in a calm manner. I do not remember such a significant spill with vertical effects having occurred to me. I did not feel embarassed because spills occur to everybody, but the dining room team members were not particularly speedy in placing a napkin over the spill on the table and cleaning up the liquid on the marble. It took more than 15 minutes literally. The service is below-average, in my book, for a restaurant at this type of level. The captain (of the upstairs area, at least) had a smug attitude, although it may not have been intended (?). Service deficiencies observed included (1) a server whose English was so heavily accented that I could not understand the ingredients in a dish he was describing (note I fully support the inclusion of minorities on dining room teams; however, their English should be screened for adequacy), (2) the same server having switched the veal dishes of me and my dining companion (which had been cooked to different levels) and then, again, my espresso with my dining companion's regular coffee, (3) the inability of the server pouring the wine to address what grapes were included in its production, (4) lack of generosity in not repouring the glass of wine I had spilled (admittedly, only one glass of wine is offered per course; however, courtesy would suggest the repouring), (5) the maitre d' knowing nothing about champagnes (e.g., Delamotte is included in the wine list, and the maitre d' did not know this producer's affiliation with Salon -- I wonder whether he knew of Salon), and (6) the utilization of a pepper grinder held more than 20 cm above the plate of an adjacent table's diner. Average wine list for a restaurant of its standing, with respect to champagne and white Burgundies. White Burgundy selection included 1/2 Corton Charlemagne, Bonneau de Martray 1996 for $100, and full (?) Chassagne-Montrachet, Cailleret, J. Gagnard 1998 for $75. Reds included a La Mission Haut-Brion 1994 for $200. NY 2002 Prix Fixe Note Aureole's NY 2002 prix fixe was listed as follows. The meal is $20.02, and is available year round for lunch only. -- Chilled Asparagus Soup, lemon, black pepper and parmesan, or Artichoke and Farro "Risotto", basil emulsion -- Sauteed Skate with Curred Tomato Vinaigrette, spiced couscous and mache leaves, or Slow-Braised Veal Ravioli, grilled shiitake mushrooms, pea shoots -- Blackberry Cream Napoleon, lemon grass sorbet, or Milk Chocolate Torte, vanilla ice cream sandwich

ebraun's mention of ice cream reminded me that Antoine Westermann's Buerehiesel currently offers the following beer dessert: Brioche caramelisee a la Biere, glace a la Biere et Poire rotie (Brioche caramelized with beer, beer ice cream and roasted pear) -- 17 euros I did not sample the entire dessert, but did take in a quenelle of the beer ice cream (together with baba au rhm from the dessert trolley). The ice cream was more subtle than I had imagined. When I spoke with Westermann about it, Westermann advised that he utilizes Kronenberg brand in the ice cream.

I am not knowledgeable about Montalcino wines, but thought other members might be interested in a dinner to be hosted by Aureole on June 18, 2002 (beginning possibly as early as 5:30 pm; members should confirm timing and other details). Zachy's "Wines of Montalcino Dinner" Chespeake Crab with Tiny Asparagus, bouillabaisse gelee, with Vermentino Guado al Tasso Antinori 2001 Seared Artic Char, "Rosso" braised artichokes, with Tosso di Montalcino Ciacci Piccolomini 1999 and Rosso di Montalcino Costanti 1999 Thyme Basted Squab with Port Glazed Foie Gras, caramelised apricot, with Brunello di Montalcino Pertimali 1997 and Brunello di Montalcino Maccioche 1997 Dijon Crusted Lamb Rack, tender lamb shoulder and Oregon morels, with Brunello di Montalcino Poggio Antico 1997 and Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio Antico 1990 Cheese Flavors of Italy, with Brunello di Montalcino Valdicava 1997 and Brunello di Montalcino La Magia 1997 Warmed Roasted Peach and Black Cherry Strudel, Sauterne sorbet, with Sol Alto Le Pupille 1999 The price appears a bit high at $195/person, but I would not be able to assess the prices normally associcated with Montalcino wine.

I'd appreciate learning what egg dishes (non-dessert) sampled at a restaurant (whether or not in the DC area) have been particularly memorable for you. In addition, your input on when humor can play a significant role in a dish (with any available examples) would be of considerable interest to me.

Patrice -- On peut faire ce qu'on veut. Returning to rapid itineraries, a visit of three-star restaurants can yield a number of interesting non-gastronomic adventures. Consider the example of cathedrals in France. In Rheims, a diner at Boyer Les Crayeres can visit the famous cathedral at which certain French monarchs were crowned. The structure has gorgeous Marc Chagall stained glass windows in hues of blue. In Bourg-en-Bresse (close to Georges Blanc at Vonnas), there is a cathedral. Similarly, in accessing Buerehiesel, Auberge de L'Ill and/or L'Arnsbourg, one can visit the beautiful clay-red-colored cathedral with the single tower (and see the astrological clock inside). At L'Esperance (formerly three-starred, now only two), there is a well-known church with a special midnight mass on Christmas Eve. Of course, continuing the architecture theme, Barcelona (from which El Raco de Con Fabes, etc. can be accessed) has Gaudi structures that one either likes or dislikes. On other activities, ski enthusiasts during the wintertime can take advantage of Megeve's sports facilities while accessing Veyrat's Ferme de Mon Pere. Spa-goers can visit Guerard's spa at Pres d'Eugenies. On activities close to Laguiole, I'd like to reiterate how interesting Roquefort-sur-Sulzon could be (at least to me). Apart from the large producers Papillon and Societe (each of which, of course, produces Roquefort in different caves; e.g., Societe Cave des Templiers is quite common, but there are other caves resulting in differently-labelled Roqueforts), there are smaller producers in the region. The caves along mountainous regions in which Roquefort are produced will be covered when I next visit Bras. At one point in the road from Montpellier through Millau to Laguiole, a 35-40 mile trip would have taken me to Roquefort-sur-Sulzon. While many travel destinations are chosen based on my desire to visit specific restaurants, I do not necessarily limit my activities at the applicable destinations to gastronomic ones. Admittedly, taking in a long lunch with usual quantities of wine tends to reduce productivity prior to dinner. And taking in full dinners renders mornings less productive. Where one ends up in balancing gastronomic versus other activities is, of course, subjective.

Frieda -- Only if you would like to do so, I'd be happy to participate in a discussion of the perceptions of the restaurant choices and eating habits of eGulleteers, offering only my experiences.

I second Steve P's recommendation of Loubet's Moulin de Lourmarin. Together with Roellinger (by repute only, as I have yet to make my way to Cancale) and Loraine at Joigny, Loubet is in my mind one of the strongest two-star chefs in France. Below, as an example, are the first three courses from a menu taken in (with very rough translations) when I last visited Loubet: Ecrevisse pattes rouges, vinaigrette d'algues de "Nori" et "Santolines", bouillon comme un capuccino de champaginons sauvages, une emulsion aux "amandes vertes" de Lourmarin (ecrevisse with red feet, vinaigrette of "Nori" seaweed and ?, bouillon with a capuccino effect flavored with wild mushrooms, an emulsion of green almonds from Lourmarin) Complicite de foie gras, l'un confit, l'autre poele, confiture de "tomate verte", jus caramelise au ratafia de "pin sylvestre" (Foie gras sampling; one confit; the other pan-fried, with a green tomato jam, caramelised jus with pin sylvestre) Cromesqui de joue de porc en fannette de noisette, infusion laiteuse a l'"Arquebuse", noix vertes pochees comme un vieux garcon de la saint jean (Cromesqui of pigs' cheeks flavored with hazelnut, a milky infusion with Arquebuse and green walnut) Loubet is a disciple of Veyrat, and, like his mentor, utilizes local (in this case, Luberon) herbs and flowers, "forgotten" vegetables, etc. Interestingly, while both chefs have some complexity in their cuisine (which I ordinarily dislike), I appreciate Loubet's cuisine. There is a wonderful use of acidity and bitterness, respectively, including certain medicinal flavors and bitterness from unusual Luberon herbs, roots and other plants. Loubet's restaurant is beautiful as well, with an interior portion lodged inside a restored former olive mill and the outside area around a distinctive olive tree and vine-clad areas. Loubet's meals are very filling, and much better than those of Reine Samut in the same village (Auberge de La Feniere).

Vancouver Magazine's April 2002 edition suggests that Les Amis du Fromage, operated by Allison and Alice Spurrell, is largely responsible for the cheese at numerous Vancouver restaurants. "The best cheese trolleys are at Diva, Ouest, Lumiere, Chartwell, Bacchus, the Irish Heather, Hart House, Bishop's, Fleuri, Manhattan, Blue Water Cafe and Raincity Grill. We can largely thank" Les Amis du Fromage. Have members resident in Vancouver visited this cheese shop?

The call is difficult as to which of Ouest and Lumiere is better. I consider restaurant preferences, particularly among restaurants at the same general level, to be subjective. A diner could readily prefer one over the other. Not having visited Lumiere's gastronomic portion (but having heard from multiple local sources that that portion offers cuisine generally comparable in style to that at the bar) and having visited each restaurant a small number of times, I am interested in additional visits before making a relative assessment. The Vancouver restaurant landscape highlights several lines of inquiry that Steven S suggested and that I have been considering: (1) the potential impact that one or two chefs can have over the restaurants in an entire city (other examples are the Roux Brothers in London or Trotter in Chicago), (2) the role of foreign training (e.g., in the case of Hawksworth of Ouest) and "branded" mentors/master chefs for whom a young chef has worked when certain portions of the local dining public (as opposed to, for example, restaurant reviewers) may not be particularly familiar with those mentors, (3) the differences, if any, in the palates (whether with respect to preference or stage of development) of the dining public in a city, and the role of non-French restaurants (I mention French partly due to my subjective personal preference for French food) in educating those palates (as I believe the Chinese restaurants in Vancouver have been helpful in doing), (4) the role of patissiers in the marketing and molding of a restaurant (my perception is that Ouest's pastry chef has a slightly higher profile, and is emphasized more by the restaurant itself, than that at Lumiere), and (5) the role of prices in one's assessment of cuisine (e.g., the reasonable prices at Lumiere's bar).

I'd appreciate input from members who recollect how geoduck has been used by Canadian, non-Chinese and non-Japanese restaurants. I wonder whether the preparation methods for geoduck have been inspired by those for other shellfish, and, if so, which ones. For me, geoduck is more texturally differentiated within a single specimen than scallop (including more elastic in some portions). Perhaps recipes in French cuisine for bigorneaux or hormeaux might be an appropriate point of departure?

I had lunch at Fleur de Sel today. A good prix fixe meal (likely available only for lunch), at the very good price of $20 for three courses. (Edit disclosure: Price corrected from original indication of $30 to the actual of $20). -- Suckling pig and foie gras terrine with aged balsamic -- Potato crusted sea bass, Malbec wine and mapel sugar reduction -- Rasberry feuilletee Glass of Domaine du Bois Guillaume, White Burgundy 1998 ($12) Glass of Hurst Pinot ($11) The terrine of foie gras and suckling pig was good, with the foie relatively suppressed and with an appropriate utilization of surrounding gelee. The suckling pig included was in segments and strands, which contrasted nicely with the smoothness of the foie. The balsamic was nicely utilized, and the tiny radishes with long stems were appropriate accompaniments. The bass was well-prepared as well. On top of the flesh of the bass were potato puree portions whose top had been formed into the shape of scales of a fish and had been browned slightly. This provided a slight bit of crunchiness. The pea puree included evoked the spring and summer seasons. The red wine reduction was strong, and rendered the pea puree necessary ato the dish. The rasberry feuillete consisted of whole rasberries sandwiched between two thin sheets of pastry. On top was a quenelle of caramel-flavored ice cream or rich sorbet, with large sprinkles of fleur de sel (or at least sea salt). I have tended to like caramel/salt combinations, but here the salt could have been better integrated into the caramel tastes. However, the dessert remained good overall. The wine list was not particularly long, but contained some interesting (at least to me) items (e.g., Blanc de Lynch-Bagues 1997 at $84; Pascal Jolivet Sancerre 2000 at $41; O Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet "Les Pucelles" 1999 at $125). The service provided by the maitre d' was very nice, including with respect to the wine recommendation. The restaurant was fragrant with slight traces from white geraniums, included in one of the three very large sprawling (in a good way, in context) floral arrangements placed inside the relatively small restaurant. Each arrangement was large, both in vertical and horizontal dimensions. Some had twisted or elegant branches as main components of the arrangement.

Vancouver Magazine's April 2002 edition names the following as the best restaurants in Whistler as part of its 13th Annual Restaurant Awards -- Gold: Araxi, Silver: Bearfoot Bistro, Bronze: La Rua; runners up: Quattro at Whistler, Val d'Isere. Note I do not attribute much weight to the above list, and have not visited any Whistler restaurants. However, I thought the list could be one of multiple reference points. Steven S-- When you have a chance, what are Araxi's sibling restaurants in Vancouver and how was the cuisine at such restaurants?

jaybee -- The wines sampled during the tasting session were: Latour 1999, 1997, 1996, 1995, 1994, 1988, 1990, 1982 and Les Forts de Latour (3 recent ones, sampled before the Latour). Then, during dinner, Latour 1980, 1967, 1971 (magnum), 1961, 1955 and 1985. I particularly liked the 1961, not surprisingly, but enjoyed learning more about this line. I was not at the stage of wine knowledge at which the evening would have been most helpful. Note my understanding of wine is feeble, particularly reds. :confused:

Oh, good.

Adam -- Were the cuts relatively shallow? :confused:

It took me several days to place my tasty dinner at Ouest into perspective. For me, and based on sampling of restaurants to date over several visits to Vancouver, Ouest and Lumiere are markedly the best restaurants in the city. When I was taking the dinner at Ouest and for the several days thereafter (including when I was eating at Lumiere's bar), I had already thought it was good. However, I found attempts to compare Ouest and Lumiere (whose bar area offers cuisine that is reportedly rather similar to that in the gastronomic part of the restaurant, which I have not yet visited) initially confusing. At first, I believed I subjectively preferred Lumiere, although another diner could readily come to a contrary assessment. However, upon further reflection, I now believe that Ouest has consistency (at a good level) and other favorable attributes that render a "call" between Lumiere and Ouest premature and that require exploration upon subsequent visits. (1) Amuse bouche -- The amuse was a butternut squash veloute, garnished with chives and a touch of olive oil. I liked the somewhat cold temperature of the veloute, which helped temper the sweetness in the butternut squash. My dining companion noted that, even though tomatoes were not present in the veloute, there was the taste of creamed tomatoes. This dish was served with champagne. (2) Quebec foie gras and chicken liver parfait on apple jelly -- I enjoyed this dish, which consisted of a trapezoid-shaped section of foie gras terrine with a delicate white rim. A thin layer of transparent gelee, with subtle (in a good way) apple connotations, covered the entire principal section of the dish. My dining companion considered the gelee a bit too subtle for his tastes, but I liked it and the dish overall. This dish was served with Selbach Riesling. (3) Alaskan Weathervane scallop tempura with mango, sea urchin vinaigrette -- Perhaps the only dish of the meal that disappointed somewhat. The tempura coating for the scallops, while intentionally a bit dense and containing coriander, did not appear to reflect recent deep-frying. The scallops could have been "denser" and more elastic in texture, and sea urchin tastes were difficult to detect in the saucing. The mixture of mango chutney, with tomatoes and red onions, was unduly dominant in the dish. (4) Fresh riccioli pasta with pea shoots, asparagus and morels -- A very good dish. The trumpet-shaped pasta items were accompanied by an intense, chicken-stock based reduction with shallots. A heady, intense dish that played on the sensations of meat in the very good saucing, against the morels, asparagus and pea shoots. Well conceived and nicely executed. (5) Pacific lingcod with crushed fennel, thyme roasted fingerling potatoes -- While lingcod is not one of my favorite types of fish, I was happy with its inclusion on Ouest's menu because of the significance of lingcod fishery to British Columbia. The fish was appropriately prepared, with a complementary softened fennel accompaniment that was slightly sugary and soft. The quenelle of potatoes had creme fraiche and chives. The utilization of lemon in the saucing was appreciated. (6) Roast lamb crusted with aromatic couscous -- Another dish that pleased me. The juicy, flavorful lamb chops had one side coated with Dijon mustard. Grains of couscous were then incorporated onto that portion of the chops. The jus reduction was nicely intense, and the crushed black olives in the sauce were not bad either. I liked the tomatoes (prepared somewhat like concasse) that rung of freshness and that were adorned by a single dried basil leaf. The polenta accompaniment tasted nice standalone, but might have been unnecessary to the dish. The choice of Shiraz to accompany the lamb was a good one. (7) [Osso bucco with marrow from attached bone, puree of potatoes and spinach, feve beans-- This off-menu dish was added following my mention, at Steven Shaw's suggestion, of his name.] -- The meal progressed well, with osso bucco generously offered by the chef. The veal had been braised with a bone section that contained marrow attached. This dish marked the first time I have sampled marrow attached to veal flesh. The marrow was very good. Furthermore, I liked the inclusion of spinach in the potato puree and the ability of "feve" beans to provide a refreshing balance to the veal. (8) Selection of fine cheese with walnut and Okanagan raisin bread [Fourme d'Ambert, Cantal, a Quebec cheese] -- The cheese was appropriately aged. I liked Fourme d'Ambert, and the portion received was not inferior to those generally sampled in France. (9) Omelette Rothschild -- This is one of the pastry chef's favorite preparations. Instead of a traditional souffle, served in a little cocotte-like dish, the souffle version here was presented as a eliptical-shaped flattened dome on a plate. The souffle-like components were nicely airy, and egg white appeared to have been relied on. I liked the fact that there was liquer or other alcohol in the omelette itself, and that it was primarily expressed as an aftertaste and not too aggressive in the mouth initially. The saucing was apricot-driven. While apricot is not one of my favorite fruit, I considered its utilization in the dish helpful. Overall, a good-to-very-good meal. Strong technical capabilities that have given way to a cuisine that is at times hearty and appropriately intense, and at other times subtle in a good way. Chefs' Table -- View of the Kitchen; Service My dining companion and I appreciated the opportunity to view the kitchen from the two chefs' tables located at the back of the restaurant. Each such table is in banquette, diner-like form. The last table is the better of the two because its view of the kitchen is a more central one. Chef Hawksworth, his sous-chef Les Humphries and two other cuisiniers were efficient, but calm and methodical. The kitchen appeared to be kept in an immaculate state of cleanliness and readiness. I had wondered whether occupying the chefs' tables might have a negative aspect of inhaling cooking fumes that might detract from the sampling of the dishes taken in. However, the ventilation system in the kitchen was excellent and there were no such problems. The dining room team member who assisted us was helpful and knowledgeable. I liked his detailed descriptions of each dish. The bartender was friendly was well. Decor I liked the decor at Ouest. Upon entering the restaurant, a diner sees a long bar on the right hand side. It has series of cubicles for wine and a ladder, like one finds at Montrachet in NYC, but with darker wood and along a lengthier expanse. There are seats for drinks there. Perched high in the middle of the restaurant was an arrangement of burgundy/brown-ish dried branches or other dried items. Dark woods predominate, with a marbled floor and false marbeling effects on the lamps. A brownish leather with some burgundy tones added to the expensive-looking decor. I liked the fact that the storefront of the restaurant was partially a pane of glass, with a pattern of frosted squares. When the light outside changed, the color of this pane would accordingly evolve.

junior (hope you're comfortable with my referring to your username) -- Welcome to eGullet I haven't sampled enough Canadian cuisine to address the question of who may be the best chef in the country. I shudder at the thought that some may believe C's chef should claim that accolade. :confused: On the hotel restaurants, I have not eaten at any of the restaurants listed. I did sample Chartwell's cuisine in the Four Seasons on this visit (see relevant thread -- not linked), and had previously sampled Fish & Co in the Hyatt (nothing special). I was considering having brunch at Diva at the Met recently, but many of the dishes described appeared to be breakfast-type offerings. I would be particularly interested in your or other members' experiences with Diva at the Met and Bacchus, to the extent you have visited and recollect the meal. Also, any input on Shijo (sic) would be appreciated.

Lesley -- I did not visit Bishop's during the recent trip, due to scheduling considerations. However, I had sampled Bishop's on several occasions previously, with the most recent visit being about 1.5 years ago. I would not say Bishop's food is poor, just that, for me, it does not measure up to the cuisine presently offered by Lumiere or Ouest (unless Bishop's has made significant strides during the past 1.5 years).

Steven -- I liked both Lumiere (two meals taken at the bar area) and Ouest far better than any other restaurant I have sampled in Vancouver (incl. Bishop's, Star Anise, Chartwell). Note the current trip is not my first to the city; it is my first trip since I became a member of eGullet. I find it very surprising that C is generally compared to Ouest and Lumiere. C offers cuisine that not only is starkingly inferior to that of the other two, but also was, with respect to certain dishes, rather unappetizing-tasting. What I find interesting is that C is often cited for its excellent utilization of local ingredients. With the saucing and dish design at C, the tastes of local ingredients could generally become masked or adulterated. In my view, the top three restaurants in Vancouver, based on sampling to date, are Lumiere, Ouest and Kirin (the one on Cambie). The following are the awards won by C per Vancouver Magazine's 13th Annual Restaurant Awards (April 2002 edition): -- Restaurant of the Year, Silver (after Lumiere and in front of Ouest; I would accord the Silver to Ouest) -- Best Contemporary/Regional, Gold (in front of Ouest and Bishop's; I would accord the Gold to Ouest) -- Best Seafood, Gold (in front of Blue Water Cafe and Sun Sui Wah; I am still considering which restaurant deserves this award) -- Best Use of Regional Ingredients, Gold (in front of Bishop's and Raincity Grill; the latter is somehow a sibling of C; Lumiere and Diva at the Met came 4th and 5th; I would accord the Gold to Lumiere or Ouest) Based on my one meal (likely to remain that way) at C, the restaurant is very grossly overrated. However, Ouest and Lumiere are deserving (write-ups of meals to come).

Assuming that "best wine ever drunk" includes champagne taken in, a 1949 Ruinart Baron de Rothschild Special Reserve (it was a golden color, still had bubbles, and was distinctively evolved both on the nose and in the mouth). Other memorable experiences: (1) a flight of Salon -- 1971, 1985, 1988, (2) certain wines chosen by chefs to match special dishes furnished by certain restaurants I appreciate (here, the wines themselves were not necessarily intrinsically extraordinary), and (3) a special Latour tasting session at Troisgros with the President of Latour leading a degustation of multiple Latour, followed by hors d'oeuvres near the Troisgros cellar, followed by an M Troisgros dinner with yet other Latour for each course (in all, 12+ different years of Latour, not counting Forts de Latour, sic).

I had a very poor lunch at C Restaurant in Vancouver recently. Attempts at Pacific Northwest/Asian fusion were misguided, with flavors that were uncontrolled and, in many cases, uncomplementary. In my view, C is sadly an example of a restaurant that not only has an overly complex cuisine lacking in direction, but also is pretentious. While C has garnered certain favorable media reviews, a visit may be at a diner's peril. :confused: I sampled the following: (1) C's Taster Box (C$29.00 or approx. US$20) -- Apple Cured Wild Salmon Belly, apple and celeriac salad, pecans, brown mustard seed emulsion -- Szechuan Ahi Tuna Tartare, pickled kumquats, daikon sprouts -- Dungeness crab and sea urchin panacotta, smoked salmon cracker -- Five-Spice Crusted Fanny Bay Oysters, shrimp and pineapple spring roll, sweet and sour plum sauce, fried ginger threads The C's Taster Box is a modern-looking, wooden box-like frame that allows the four component dishes above to be displayed at different heights. (The box had different levels) While the presentation was not unattractive, only one of the dishes included was good. That one dish, together with the octupus bacon (described below) and banana/lychee sorbet, was the only appealing food item taken at C. The Apple Curred Wild Salmon Belly was good -- the flesh near the belly offered appealing, more "tension-filled" and denser (in a good way) texture. The curing had been done well, enhancing the tastes of the wild salmon and adding developed connotations of slight (but not simple) sweetness. The color of the salmon pieces was attractive too, having almost burgundy tones. While the chunks of salmon belly were attractive in this dish, the other aspects of it were distracting: (1) a tall-ish inverted pastry shell (not well prepared) on top of which the chunks had been placed and which contained a coleslaw-texture-like mixture of celeriac and green apple julienne, (2) a small amount of quince gelee, which was superfluous in view of the apple connotations inhering in the curing process for the salmon belly, (3) pecans, and (4) an overly aggressive, yellow-colored grainy mustard mixture. This dish was good because of the salmon belly (described as being from Atlantic line-caught salmon), and in spite of the other items gratuitously included in the dish. The second dish included in the C Taster's Box was the Szechuan ahi tuna tartare. Here, medium-sized cubes of tuna were overwhelmed by a coating of sauce that, to me, contained a bit of hoisin sauce, a bit of sesame oil, orange-colored chili oil, very small bits of red pepper, diced carrots and onions and small juliennes of blackwood ear mushrooms (with a somewhat crunchy texture). Toasted sesame had been sprinkled onto certain parts of the tuna dish. This dish reminded me of a Chinese restaurant's saucier suffering from muscle spasms near the condiments tray. The pickled kumquats introduced further confusion into the dish, although I did find the bitterness of the daikon sprouts to be a neutral aspect. The seasoning for the tuna was very harsh and, in sum, poor tasting. The third dish in the C's Taster Box was Dungeness crab and sea urchin pannacotta. The pannacotta was bland, although quite beautiful (a blush color). The two small chunks of Dungeness crab atop the pannacotta did not, shall we say, have an appetizing smell. The smoked salmon cracker was a dried, somewhat elastic piece of smoked salmon that did not taste good. Finally, the Five Spiced Crusted Fanny Bay Oysters had a batter coating that was unappealing dense. The deep frying appeared to have not been done shortly prior to the serving of this dish. The included spring roll of shrimp and pineapple tasted misguided. Not only was the spring roll skin thicker than one would have expected and not reflective of recent deep frying, but the inclusion of pineapple with the shrimp cheapened the dish. Note that, together with the pineapple and shrimp segments inside the spring roll were sliced blackwood ear mushrooms, carrots, onions and additional ingredients. While the sweet and sour plum sauce accompanying this item was appropriately subdued, the rest of this dish was a disaster. Note the inherent quality of the Fanny Bay oysters did not appear poor; the oysters had merely been denigrated by the culinary preparation. (2) Dungeness Crab and Lemon Myrtle Cake, carrot and snail fondu[e], coconut and candied ginger chutney (C$16.00) My main course of Dungeness crab cake was poor. First, there was an akward unknown coating surrounding the Dungeness crab that was dry and unappetizing. Second, the Dungeness crab strands and segments of shrimp inside were not sufficiently moist. Third, the lemon myrtle (described as being akin to lemon and pepper in taste) lacked acidity for interest. This manifested itself in the cream-based saucing for the dish, which was nondescript. Fourth, there was an unduly large volume of julienne of carrots that overwhelmed the plate. Note I had already asked that the coconut and candied ginger chutney described on the menu for this dish to be excluded. The fifth reason this dish was poor was the gratuitous use of toasted black sesame next to the crab cake. Overall, a dish of which I took in less than 20%. (3) 1/2 Order of Seared Scallops, octopus bacon, yukon gold potato and mushroom cake, cognac and dark veal stock reduction, grilled asparagus (C$25.00 for full portion; supplement of C$15.00 for inclusion of seared Quebec foie gras, which was not ordered) I was surprised by the restaurant's response to my request that I sample the octupus bacon standalone as a side. The restaurant presented a 1/2 order (including scallops), and charged me for it, without consulting me in advance. Ordinarily, when one requests an item, is told specifically that the restaurant would be happy to offer it to be sampled, and then receives additional items, one does not expect to be charged for the additional items. Leaving aside the unhappy service issues associated with the octupus bacon, the bacon standalone was interesting. It had a slightly smokey flavor, and yet was tender and had the elasticity of octupus. The restaurant described the octupus bacon as having been prepared by (1) brining whole octupus legs, (2) cutting them into strips, (3) smoking them using maple chips, and (4) preparing a confit with chicken fat. The inspiration for the octupus bacon wrapping for the scallops was described as having been bacon wrapping for filet mignon. Alas, the rest of the dish did not fare as well. The large scallop around which the octupus bacon was wrapped was "mushy". The cognac and veal stock reduction was unduly harsh and unappetizing. The reduction likely contained a bit of oyster sauce. Its temperature was also a bit "off", for a thin film had formed on top of it when the dish first arrived at the table. The mushroom cake contained decent mushrooms (the type commonly found in Chinese cuisine -- matsutake, sic) in julienne, but was a supporting player in the dish. The asparagus were overcooked to the point of being a weird shrivelled mass. Another depressing dish. (4) Passion Fruit Souffle, Banana & Lychee Sorbet The passion fruit souffle was a bit too sweet, but the banana and lychee sorbet was expressive of the flavors of the featured fruit. It is sad that sorbet, the cured salmon belly included in the appetizer and the octupus bacon were the only three items in a lengthy meal that were not affirmatively poor. -- Other Depressing Aspects of the Meal There were a number of other problems with my lunch at C. First, I had ordered a 1998 Pouilly Fusse, Drouhin (1/2 bottle) (C$50) from the fairly good wine list. It turned out that the bottle I received was a 1999 version of the same wine. When I brought this to the attention of the waitress half-way into the meal (when I noticed the discrepancy in years -- I did not verbally articulate this, but pointed to the wine list entry and the different year on the cork, as an adjacent table included the restaurant's sommelier seeking to obtain an allocation from a certain relatively well-known Alsatian producer), she thanked me quietly, but took no action. The mistake was not a big deal for me, and nothing was noted, except that I verbalized to the waitress at the end of the meal that the wrong wine had been brought (due to the absence of response to my previous, very innucuous actions). This brought the maitre d' to my table. He asked me, in a relatively confrontational and unapologetic tone, whether I had noticed the discrepany in years when the wine was first presented to me for sampling. I politely responded that I had not noticed until half-way through the meal. I felt the maitre d' might have been implying I was partially responsible for not having noticed the mistaken serving of a bottle of the wrong year. The maitre d', surprisingly, then asked whether there was a difference in taste between the actually sampled 1999 and the ordered 1998. I noted that it was not a question of whether there was a difference in taste, but whether the restaurant's approach to wine service was appropriate. At this point, the maitre d' finally provided the apology that was called for, realizing that the Alsatian producer at the next table was focusing on the described exchange. I had tried not to make a fuss and to register my dissatisfaction non-verbally, but the absence of any response (let alone a satisfactory response) to my first communication on the wine led me to a verbal communication that was, unfortunately, rather embarassing for the restaurant. Of course, I paid for the wine and received no concessions from the restaurant. C is generally considered to have a good wine list, and I do not disagree with that assessment. There were some interesting bottles (e.g., Laville Haut-Brion white burgundy 1980 at C$250, an expensive range of sake by the bottle). In my case, the service received was crude (including with respect to temperature, which was significantly above the range appropriate). Second, I was literally the only paying diner during the lunch in question. While I generally like dining alone, being the only paying diner in an entire restaurant does alter the restaurant experience a bit. I can't say that the effects were positive or negative, though. Third, the sommelier was pitching to the Alsatian producer at the adjacent table in not-too-subtle terms. What was said by the sommelier, who was eating with the members of the producer's team, can be called laughable. For example, the sommelier indicated that (1) the chef at C is considered by many the best chef in Canada (pl--ease), (2) he had asked another Alsatian producer to change the color of the foil on similar, but different, bottles to avoid future occurrences of his staff's having served two superior bottles to clients that had ordered other bottles (I wonder whose fault that might be?) -- appropriately, the producer had laughed at him, (3) the chef at C voyages significantly to France and to the US (when asked by the Alsatian producer which chef the chef at C knew well, no specifics were available), and (4) the chef likes to utilize unusual presentations (e.g., silver-colored ice cream and gold leaf -- in my personal assessment, these gimmicks are generally a negative sign). It was a form of "noise" to listen to the presumptuous statements emanating from the sommelier at C Restaurant. Also funny was the very obvious gurgling sound made by the sommelier with almost every gulp of wine. While some sound is typically generated by certain methods of tasting wine, this individual's sound could be heard from half a room away, I would imagine, and was quite exaggerated. After over 45 minutes of unavoidably listening to the sommlier's pitche, I felt glad to leave the restaurant. In sum, C is a restaurant with an overly-complex and distressed cuisine. Flavors that are unduly stark; too many ingredients in a dish; the masking of incompetence with attempted use of Asian spices. C seeks to position itself as a "contemporary fish restaurant" that pushes the envelope, at least in the context of Vancouver. The only direction in which C is heading, in my book, is downwards. -- Location and Decor C is located near Howe and Beach, on the downtown side of Vancouver, but adjacent to the water. It looks out onto a beautiful stretch of water, yachts, a certain part of Granville Island properties, and the Granville and Burrard bridges. A wonderful view that is not put to use, in view of the depressing cuisine. The decor is modern and attractive. The floor is tiled, and the tables are a darker wood. The chairs have a burgundy color for the wood of certain parts of it, with black-colored wood for legs and a textured, medium grey fabric covering the back and certain portions of the arms. -- Items Not Sampled From Lunch Menu (1) Business Menu -- A business lunch at C$35 was available, and consisted, on the day of visit, of: Apple cured wild salmon belly, lobster bisque, baked halibut and a dessert taster. (2) Specialties Section Iranian Caviar with warm buckwheat tree cake, red onions, sour cream, citron granite (sevruga at C$85/30g to beluga at C$135/30g) Iranian Caviar Tasting (30 grams of each of three types of caviar, accompaniments same as above except that granite would be flavored with absolut citron vodka and quail eggs and 24K gold leaf would be included) C$275 Nova Scotia Lobster Tail Sashimi, remy martin cognac bath, lobster claw miso soup with tofu, wakimi, green onions 29 Seared Quebec Foie Gras, quince jelly, anna potato, dried cherries 25 (with a 70 supplement for a 1.5 ounce glass of 1994 D'Yquem) (3) Appetizers Shucked Oysters (C$2.75-3.25 each); can be served with tobiko or wasabi infused salmon caviar (supp of $1.50 each) or with caspain caviar, creme fraiche and gold leaf (supp $5.00 each) Appled Cured Wild Salmon Belly 10.00 Albacore Tuna Sashimi 10.50 Spring Lettuce Salad, asparagus, goat cheese crouton, fig and orange emulsion (11.00) Five Spice Crusted Fanny Bay Oysters 12.00 Lobster Bisque, asparagus and seafood terrine, tarragon fromage blanc 13.00 Ahi Tuna To Power of Three (grilled ultra-rare; salmon salted tofu; dashi broth) 14.50 Spot Prawn and Shucked Oyster Cocktail, iced cucumber sunomono, ponzu jellies, wasabi infused salmon roe 15.50 (4) Main Courses Grilled Vegetable Panini, asparagus, arugula, roasted peppers, monnstruck organic brie, artichoke pesto, spring lettuce salad 14.00 (with 3.50 supp for roasted chicken and 6.50 supp for grilled prawns) Seared Beef and Shitake Mushroom Stir Fry, blackwood ear mushrooms, soba noodles, chinatown greens, bell peppers, birds eye chilli and garlic sauce 15.00 Pan Roasted Wild Salmon, artichokes, capers, fennel, arugula, gnocchi, tomato saffron broth 17.00 Baked Halibut, sweet pea puree, walnut and gorgonzola gratin, smoked salmon chip 18.00 Grilled Chicken Breast, chickpea and roasted bell pepper salad, "eleni" extra virgin olive oil, 12 yr old balsamic, sundried olives 19.50 Grilled Mahi Mahi, multigrain risotto, spring onions, braised pork hock glaze 21.00 Warm Lobster Salad, fingerling potatoes, truffles, pistachio nuts, port wine reduction 23.50

As members know, many out-of-print books can be located on the internet. Even French language cookbooks or books about restaurants can be located in this way.

For me, how a diner approaches, takes in and analyzes (if at all) a meal is generally subjective and personal. Analysis, comparison and contrast (during and following the taking in of cuisine) are for me an integral part of an "art"-like meal, just as eugenezuckoff and other diners might find their unwillingness to analyze a meal an indicia of a special meal. I agree that, very generally, a more leisurely approach with respect to visiting restaurants facilitates contemplation of dining experiences. However, the demands of work, family and friends, curiosity to visit a restaurant earlier and numerous other considerations may mitigate against a more leisurely approach under certain circumstances.

I agree with Bux and lizziee. I have had a number of "art"-like meals (see "Chef of the Century" thread under "General"), and have had an exhilarating time sampling various three-star and non-three-star restaurants (even ones that offer disappointing meals, for there is some value in the process of discovery).

Margaret -- I will pursue the information this coming week.