cabrales

I'd appreciate hearing about other members' recent experience with Le Bec Fin.

La Tante Claire and The Square are the restaurants that would, for me, offer markedly better food than the other restaurants listed. However, they would both appear to be relatively unreceptive to having small children as diners. (Note I generally tend to prefer French restaurants, and that these are the restaurants in the list you provided that are Michelin two-starred.)

Wilfrid -- Of course. Did you see the Red Snapper dish mentioned for Le Bernardin? I could sample that too. Robert -- Please consider writing about Ducasse.

Billy D -- It's the same season you describe for French sea urchins ("oursins"). I find them markedly better than uni. However, some restaurants in the US appear to be sourcing their urchins from unexpected places (Malibu?). I wonder if that might extend the period during which they are available. :confused:

Paris

I have a sample list of Pierre Herme sandwiches (interested members should verify availability with a particular store on the same day): -- For euros 4.30: Sandwich brioche au foie gras mi-cuit (Foie gras) -- For euros 4.60: Sanwich au crabe (crab with herbed mayo) There are also mini-sandwiches (very small): -- For euros 2.45: Sandwich pain de mie tarama (cod roe spread, origination might have been Greek?) -- For euros 2.15: Sandwich pain de mie aux piquillos et jambon San Daniele (eggs mimosa, wood-cooked peppers and dried San Daniele ham) -- For euros 2.45: Sandwich pain de mie au saumon fume et raifort (smoked salmon and horseradish) -- For euros 1.50: Sandwich pain de mie au fraomge frais et fines herbes (cheese with garlic and herbs) -- For euros 2.15: Sandwich pain de mie au cresson et crevettes (watercress and shrimp) -- For euros 1.90: Sandwich pain de mie a la tomate et roquette (tomato and rocket) -- For euros 2.45: Sandwich mini-baguette au jambon San Daniele

Suvir -- I'm grateful for the thoughts and sentiments conveyed through your replies

jordyn -- When you have a chance, could you describe whether the Ilo "tidal pool" is cooked/uncooked, and what some of the other ingredients might be?

Jeanne -- On egg dishes, I was thinking of a dish along the lines of (1) the "coque-mouillettes" offered as an amuse-bouche at M Bras in Laguiole, (2) the "chaud-froid d'oeuf" (with maple syrup, sherry vinegar and chives) offered as an amuse-bouche at L'Arpege in Paris, or (3) the liquid with egg (typically with jasmine) served in an egg shell to end a meal at L'Astrance in Paris (sometimes with another egg shell containing a flickering little candle). http://www.michel-bras.fr/anglais/cuisine/...expre-coque.htm On humor, here are some examples: (1) T Keller's dishes and their names (e.g., "macaroni and cheese", "oysters and pearls"), (2) the foie gras bonbons at the Pourcels' Jardin des Sens at Montpellier (which have a concentric-circle-like swirl of burgundy-colored sauce resembling a bulls'-eye), (3) the inclusion in the db bistro moderne burger of bits of braised short ribs, which are reminiscent of Boulud's short ribs at sibling restaurant Daniel, and (4) as other members on the board have mentioned, the use as garnishes in a dish of ingredients with which an animal/fish was associated during its life (e.g., turbot cooked in a salt crust, wild boar with chestnuts). I hope the above helps clarify the egg/humor question.

lizziee -- The meals sound wonderful. When you have a chance, could you please discuss the Meyer lemon beurre blanc in the Turbot collar with fennel and Meyer lemon beurre blanc, and also the utilization of the same lemon with the bass? For example, what might the collar of turbot have referred to (did it, for example, include portions of the head region)?

Liza -- I wonder if the tomato water is like Raymond Blanc's (of Manoir au Quat' Saison, UK) tomato essence, which I have not yet sampled and which is described in one of the chef's cookbooks. I read Steve P's description of the UP dish, and look forward to sampling it shortly.

Sandra -- Thanks for the encouragement. I am going to look over some basic culinary techniques before another attempt. Perhaps pan-fried salmon with no special saucing might be feasible. :confused:

Jinmyo -- I didn't know non-stick pans could lend themselves to so much charring (i.e., the bad, charcoal-resembling variety of little burnt bits, over the bottom of the pan and adhering to the mushroom pieces). Is Circulon a sufficiently good brand, such that the pan did not contribute to the problem? If more butter is warranted, I'll try to use more when I next attempt mushrooms. It appears to not be a phenomenon specific to the chicken mushroom variety. :confused:

ngatti -- I had the Oregon beef at Sugiyama as well. It was fairly good, but fell short of compelling. Raw pieces were placed onto a hot metal vessel. However, the beef was taken as part of the most expensive kaiseki menu. Query whether other kaiseki menus would include the beef.

Sandra -- Thanks. Does an actual hand-held whisk have to be used, or can a fork or other stirring implement work? Also, are you preparing your mushroom chunk tonight?

Having received a large chunk of chicken mushroom from B Edulis, I am going to try and cook a late dinner. I'll cut up the mushrooms and try to have them sauteed in butter. Then, I'll make a champagne-and-butter sauce using some residual single-grape Chardonnay that is so-so for separate drinking (Pommery Summertime Blanc de Blancs). I'd appreciate input on how this type of sauce is made, if cream is not included as an ingredient? Two of the duck eggs I purchased at the Union Square market Saturday will be attempted in a sunny-side-up preparation. I'll add a bit of Maggi sauce to them at the last minute (a pet peeve) and sprinkle copious amounts of diced fresh chives. I may have the above with Pascal Jolivet Sancere 1999 or 2000.

I'd appreciate members' input on where sea urchin dishes can be had at non-Japanese restaurants (preferably French restaurants) in NY. Sea urchins were available at Bouley last week (Steamed Malibu sea urchins served with Kaffir lime, shiso and baby celery leaves, Oscetra caviar -- not a tasty dish, although the sea urchins were integrated into an egg-based custard similar to a flan). ADNY's sample Shellfish Menu from its website also describes "Veloute and Royale of Sea Urchin, Lightly Whipped Cream, Chervil" (unclear if currently available).

Wilfrid & Jinmyo -- You'll find the below excerpt from Grimes, entitled "Big Fish, Little Fish and Raw Fish: The Year In Review" amusing (one of the introductory pieces to the 2001 NYT Guide to NYC Restaurants; I'll check the 2002 version shortly): "Raw fish emerged as an unlikely star, in all sorts of settings. [Mention of Douglas Rodriguez's departure from Patria for Chicama] . . . At Esca . . . [Mario Batali] and his partner, Joe Bastianich, set aside a special place on their all-fish menu for a dozen variations on the theme of raw fish, all of them *beguiling* [Mention of Sushi Yasuda and Ping's Seafood] . . . ." Under the 2001 Esca-specific description, the guide indicates this, among other things: "At Esca . . . the most important word in the Italian language is crudo. It means raw, and that's the way the fish comes to the table in a *dazzling* array of appetizers that could be thought of as Italian sushi. . . . The crudo apetizers at Esca are the freshest, *most exciting thing to happen to Italian food in recent memory*. In the hands of chef David Pasternack, the crudo formula shows remarkable flexibility. By changing olive oils, adding a bitter green, or throwing in a scattering of minced chilies, Mr. Pasternack works *thrilling* variations along a very simple theme. . . ."

ngatti -- If you are interested in sampling Kobe-type beef, consider the Bouley thread. As part of his Spring/early Summer menu, Bouley had "Seattle, Washington Kobe beef with Asian celery puree and horseradish sauce ($56)" (not sampled). At least sometimes (like the evening I visited), the beef was included in the prix fixe $75 tasting menu selections (two selections per course, very generally) for a $20 or so (?) supplement.

Wilfrid -- "Lure" implies a need to persuade someone who is not otherwise inclined to sample the dish. Depending on whether I qualify as a fellow diner within your "definition" and on Lespinasse's weekend hours, efforts at persuasion might not be called for. Note this is not a flirtatious response, to be clear. This is predicated on my interest in poularde and poulet (as demonstrated by my numerous pre-existing postings on Bresse poulet and poularde, although they were from a few months ago). Note that some of such references were in the A Balic thread, which is in the Member Bio forum and is currently the only 30-page thread on the board. I am not providing a page reference for the poulet and poularde posts, and may or may not have mentioned such posts in my periodic summaries of the A Balic thread (which I have been delinquent on in recent days, but which newer members will be assured of running across if they read the A Balic thread from page 1 onwards).

Wilfrid - I was told there's no pattern to slow-cooked dishes, except that bouillabaisse tends to be available Friday (members interested in the dish should confirm this point with the restaurant). Perhaps your Saturday bouillabaisse reflected less-than-expected sales on Friday?

I found the below description regarding US Pinot Noir on Montrachet's website: "New York City's First American Pinot Noir Festival Wednesday, July 10th, 6:00 - 9 PM at the "W" New York Hotel For the first time ever, approximately 30 of America's finest Pinot Noir producers will be coming to New York City to pour their wines under one roof. Heralded producers such as Williams Selyem, Ponzi, Beaux Freres, Flowers, Calera, Au Bon Climat, Domaine Drouhin, Merry Edwards, Robert Sinskey and Hamacher will convene at the W New York Hotel at 49th Street and Lexington Avenue to pour their wine selections. The event is being hosted by Drew Nieporent's Myriad Restaurant Group and Wine Directors, Daniel Johnnes (Montrachet) and David Gordon (Tribeca Grill). Wine and food lovers will experience a sampling of signature dishes from Myriad restaurants as well as over 100 Pinot Noirs. Participating restaurants will include: Tribeca Grill, Montrachet, Nobu, Layla, Heartbeat, Earth & Ocean and Rubicon. The cost for the evening is $150 / person. Tickets are available by calling Daniel Johnnes at 212 / 625 - 2519. Attendance is expected to reach 400. . . . The Week of July 8th. In anticipation and celebration of the First American Pinot Noir Festival, each of Myriad's Restaurants will offer a special tasting menu paired with Pinot Noirs from participating wineries. More information to follow."

Wilfrid -- Your mention of sediment leads me to share my recent experience with the wine service at Bouley. The wine was served in the usual way. Halfway throughout our meal, the dining room team member (non-captain) responsible for our table felt it necessary to come by and share this observation -- "If you taste something grainy in the wine, it's sediment. The wine you ordered was unfiltered." This was one of what I considered many service lapses. First, I don't need the dining room team member to advise me of whether the bottle was unfiltered or not. Second, I don't need him to advise me of what sediment is like. While there were no attempts by this person to deceive, his assumptions regarding absence of knowledge were not helpful. :confused: Also noted that db's current menu is on the Boulud website. Perhaps his menus are updated with some regularity? http://danielnyc.com

I have noted some roads in the French countryside do not have lampposts, making them difficult to navigate at night even before the effects of alcohol are taken into account. :confused:

I do not know the technical name of the mushroom, but the specimen was a chicken mushroom. When cut into, the young mushroom had areas that were quite moist. I am continuing my attempts to cook mushrooms later this week using Maria's kind gift.