cabrales

One (clearly flawed) basis for comparison of fees would be the various college clubs where alumni have to pay annual membership fees. I appreciate the clubs do not necessarily focus on cuisine, and often provide other services (e.g., athletic facilities, meeting rooms, hotel-type facilities). However, their membership fees generally fall far short of the Jamais level, even for resident members and even for members who graduated a long time ago (in the case of escalating fees).

Abalone might be a good analogue for the more elastic, "dense" parts of the geoduck's body, particularly if thin slicing of that portion is not deployed. I wonder if braising techniques and recipes (including Chinese braising techniques for abalone, which might utilize Chinese soup base and spareribs/chicken feet for gelatinous textures) might be appropriate for that "tougher", but still very interesting, portion.

We plan on including Wegman's Pierre Herme line in the macaron tasting, and I was unsure I could make it out to a Wegman's.

Nina - Yes, we're collaborating.

During 2Q 2002, the a la carte menu of L'Arnsbourg (excluding desserts) was as follows (very rough translations.; dishes included in tasting menu also excluded) -- Millefeuille de foie gras d'oie et figue, gelee de banyuls (Millefeuille of goose foie gras and figs, gelee of Banyuls) Foie gras de canard confit aux epices et son "chutney", grillade de foie gras de canard au Baerewecka (Duck foie gras with spices and "chutney"; foie gras with Baerewecka?) Cocotte de fruits et legumes (Cocotte of fruits and vegetables) Croustillant de langoustine, jue au corail (petite portion); langoustines poelees, croustillant de pommes de terre, salade d'herbes (Croustillant of langoustine, with a jus of its corail, in small portion; pan-fried langoustines, with a croustillant of potato and a salad of herbs) Saint-Jacques et foie gras marines, petites salade d'artichauts et truffes; noix de saint-jacques poelees, soupe de nougat (Scallops and foie gras, marinated, small salad of artichokes and truffles; pan-fried scallops, soup of nougat??) Cuisses de grenouilles aux herbs et coriandre (Frogs' legs with herbs and coriander) Dos de carrelet, pistaches et bigorneaux, coulis de petits pois (Meat? with pistachios and welk/periwinkle-like item, coulis of peas) Soupe de coco, rouget au curry de Madras (Soup of white beans, red mullet with Madras curry) Trocon de turbot poche, Hollandaise au clou de girofle (Piece of turbot, Hollandaise with cloves) St-Pierre infuse au laurier en croute de sel pour deux personnes (John Dory infused with bay leaves in a salt crust, for two people) Loup de mer au fenouil pour deux personnes (Sea bass with fennel, for two people) Volaille farcie d'aromates, cuisinee en cocotte pour deux personnes (Poultry stuffed with aromatics, cooked in a cocotte, for two people) Poitrine de Pigeon, sauce au gingembre (Front part of pigeon, ginger sauce) Supreme de canette rotie, jus a l'infusion de feve de tonka (Breast of roasted duckling, jus from an infusion of tonka beans) Effiloche de lapin aux baies de geievre (Rabbit dish) Cote de veau de lait poelee, pour deux personnes, oignons confits, tombees d'epinards et carottes (Pan-fried side of milk-fed veal, for two people, confit onions, side of spinach and carrots) Noix de rognon de veau, sauce a l'orange (Veal kidney, orange sauce) Carre de porcelet au foin pour deux personnes (Side of some meat, in hay, for two people) L'Assiette autour de l'agneau (Dish around lamb -- I wonder how this compares to Guy Savoy's dish of lamb in all of its states, as mentioned by blind lemon higgins)

Patrice -- Merci That's my final restaurant choice for San Sebastian. I only worry whether I can leave dinner by 9:15 pm. That might be difficult timing.

Pierre is nicer than Pascal, who is at least co-maitre d' or occupies some role at that level (or was as of 3Q 2002 at least). Pascal is tall and thin, and much younger. He has an angular face, and dark brown hair.

Do any members know how Jamais fared at ADNY? I assumed he left out of his own volition.

I have never separately tipped a maitre d', not even where there is a separate space on the credit card receipt with respect to the maitre d'.

Me neither. I never tipped him, not that I went to Daniel with any frequency.

CooksQuest -- Well, that level of fee could be appropriate for one of Jamais' target markets. "You have no idea how many people go out and spend five, six, eight thousand dollars a night." Jamais appears obnoxious even with respect to some of his quotes: "But even if they live on the Upper West Side, I will take them." "Who are these exclusive clients anyway? 'They will be men who are presidents and chairmen of huge companies,' declares Jamais confidently. And the women? 'They will be the wives of the presidents and chairmen!'

Steven -- The obligation to be welcoming should, very generally, be more onerous than the "floor" set forth by law. If, say, hypothetically, all male dining room team members were to leer at women diners and really "look them up and down" in an obvious manner, that might not be prohibited by the law, but it would be inappropriate.

Below is additional information on Poilane's sad situation: -- Agence France Presse, November 1, 2002 ("Bread giant Poilane presumed dead in chopper crash"): "Lionel Poilane, head of the internationally renowned French bread-making business, was presumed dead Friday after the helicopter he was piloting crashed off his private island on the Brittany coast. Divers who traced the wreckage of the aircraft in waters near the port of Cancale said it contained a body, though they were unable to confirm if it was that of Poilane or of his wife, who was accompanying him."

The principles that (1) restaurants should be accessible to everybody who is willing to pay a meal's cost, and (2) with respect to the situation described by L Brenner, maitre d's should not consider an existing relationship with a diner or direct cash tips as prerequisites to getting a "prime time" table if a potential diner calls far enough in advance.

Have any members received preferred guest cards? (I know that I should boycott this restaurant as a matter of principle, but it is slightly interesting.)

The November 2002 edition of Gourmet contains a half-page write-up on L'Arnsbourg. Excerpts follow: "When L'Arnsbourg won its third Michelin star this year, it was the apotheosis of a family enterprise that began in 1920 with the founding of a tavern on a remote road in the woods of France's Moselle region . . . . In 1989, Jean-Georges, who had trained in Paris with Alain Senderens [note another three-star chef who trained under Senderens], became chef . . . . 'We don't want to shock,' says Cathy. 'Instead, we want to overhwlem with unimagined pleasures.' Every meal in the handsome wood-paneled dining room begins with four hors d'oeuvres that provide a miniature workout of salt, sour, sweet and bitter for the palate: for example, an escabeche of Collioure anchovies with tiny cubes of carrot and celery root; garlic cream garnished with licorice-root powder on top of parsley puree and a snail; a crunchy mini-sandwich of parmesan; and an oyster drizzled with a combination of soy sauce, Tabasco, ginger and tomato. . . ." The article notes that the Le Kirchberg hotel, 011-33-3-87-98-97-70) is three miles up the road.

I had dinner last night at the oyster bar. The meal began with three Cortez Island (British Columbia) oysters ($2.25 each), which were larger than I had anticipated. They had a very matte, almost powdery feel in their interior portion, and were probably not the type of oyster I prefer. I ordered Sancerre 2001, R. Bourgoise, by the glass ($8.25), which was average. Then came Florida Stone Crab Claws with Mustard Mayonnaise ($37.95). There were about 6-7 medium-sized claws. I like stone crab in general, but the claws last night were only average. I finished (I appreciate the sequence might appear odd) with Grilled Bras d'Or oysters with Roquefort butter ($10.95). The oysters were very thin and small, although these were the first Bras d'Or I had sampled. The Roquefort was nicely integrated into the melted butter. The dining room team members, whose service was slightly better than the brusque attention normally accorded, made a mistake in also placing an order of fried oysters (these were likely Blue Points or a similar variety). The batter was average-minus only. However, the dish was left for me free of charge. Other items that momentarily caught my attention on last night's menu were (1) Point Judith Squid (served in a salad with avocado and purple basil vinaigrette ($20.95), (2) Imperial Balik Salmon ($9.95), (3) tilapia filet (I have wondered about this fish), and (4) bouillabaisse ($25.95). There was maple ice cream ($4.75), but I have been on a diet and did not order any. Overall, an average meal. Note that the area in the Oyster Bar directly facing the entrance has been converted into a decent-looking "wine bar". It appears to be only a marketing gimmick; appetizers from the oyster bar are available at the wine bar.

Chef Nischan -- Dan is providing a demonstration of the cooking of grass-fed meats at a meeting of the Earth Pledge Foundation on November 18. What are your thoughts on the flavors of grass-fed meats, including those from Skate Creek Farm if you have utilized its products?

As for a lighter atmosphere, it might arguably be lighter than it was before, but I would not call it friendly (note that is not a negative in my book). The atmosphere is professional and somewhat serious, including during a lunch I had during 3Q 2002 when I sampled the tuna pastilla appetizer dish (the dish had too much sweetness from the dried apricots).

Below are links to pictures of the mega-luscious Brittany lobster with yellow wine signature dish: http://www.pascal-jolivet.com/metsvins/index_ang.htm (scroll down; note the way the lobster is cut, lengthwise) http://www.alain-passard.com/FR/recettes/homard.htm

Chef Nischan -- Thanks again for your efforts in this Q&A. I couldn't agree more with your assessments of Blue Hill. Given the needs of your own restaurant, have you had the opportunity to eat at BH relatively recently, and do you have further observations about the cuisine there?

When they have a chance, could members with access to the review of Basildog's restaurant please post it?

The respect you accord to raising crops and animals under appropriate conditions is shared by Dan Barber and Michael Anthony of Blue Hill. Do you know the two chefs, and, if so, what types of discussions with them have encouraged you?

Chef Nischan -- I'd appreciate your views on whether your approach to cuisine, commendable as it may be, is one that could arguably be viewed as being a "luxury" that might be difficult in implement in less economically empowered countries and/or smaller, less financially well-endowed restaurants. On an arguably separate matter, what are your views on genetically modified food products? Is there a point at which the greater yield from GM crops might be justifiable, in order to make food more available to less affluent countries, even though the integrity of the sourcing and the very nature of the product would be altered? Is there a meaningful sense in which the commoditization and mass-produced nature of food might be justified relative to the food needs of the world as a whole (not that that is necessarily incompatible with smaller "pockets" of integrity with respect to products)?

Chef Nischan -- I'd appreciate learning what egg dishes (non-dessert) sampled at a restaurant have been particularly memorable for you. In addition, your input on when humor can play a significant role in a dish (with any available examples) would be of considerable interest to me. When you seek to incorporate humor, how much does it matter to you whether many diners "get it"? Similarly, on the respect you accord to ingredients and the various views expressed through your cuisine, to what extent would you be heartened if a diner visiting Heartbeat considered the cuisine delicious, but were indifferent to other considerations?