cabrales

I recently bought a book, the existence of which I had not previously been aware. It appears to be a celebratory book for 2000-2001 jointly worked upon by Arzak and F Adria. I wonder how many books Arzak has published, and the titles of his works. Another Arzak book I bought recently has a beautiful picture of the chef and his daughter to conclude. She is helping him put on a cute little red bow tie. This pair appears to be kind and adorable as people, as well as as chefs. As for whether Barcelona rules, I have not yet sampled the cuisine of Adria or Santamaria (spelling). However, for me, it's not clear that Barcelona rules within Spain, even before the rest of Europe is taken into account.

Below are dishes taken in at Arzak (amuses not included; dish names from English version of menu, unless square brackets otherwise indicate) during two meals, the second of which was outstanding and the first of which was very good (French standards): Meal 1 -- Our black squids [ink] soup Baked oysters and bread and ginger An egg flower with date "Txistorra" (this is the dish involving white truffle oil and goose fat and cooking in a little plastic pouch seen in the Bourdain series) Monkfish with pistacchio sauce over a garlic cube Pigeon lacado [Cabrales in a creamy state with green apples] Grilled fruits with orange juice Sweet egg yolks with bacon Meal 2 -- [soup of red bean, with lard and three gelees, including grapefruit and green pepper] Idiazabal [cheese] with prawns and prunes Vegetables in season (cardoons, artichokes, wild mushrooms, red beans and potatoes) Grilled squids and cocoa Beef steak and crispy vegetables Pineapples and hazelnut "Chufa" soup with fruit loaf

I agree with Bux. While not being clear on the meaning of a Parisian bistro moderne (which specific restaurants in Paris being referred to?), I would strongly disagree that BH resembles any form of Parisian bistro. It is, as Bux noted, much more evolved and reservedly robust than the reference to a Parisian bistro moderne connotes. I might beg to differ with Bux's indication that BH is not luxurious. It is not a palace with respect to decor, so if "luxury" means the decor of Versailles, BH is not luxurious. BH is not luxurious in the sense it doles out oscetra caviar in a lot of dishes, but that should not be the yardstick for luxuriousness. Additionally, food does not need to appear (key word: appear) complex or elaborate for a restaurant to be luxurious. For me, cuisine should be prepared just right, with thought and balance and some subtlety and be intellectually stimulating. Luxury can be for the mind, as well as on the nose and in the mouth. I think, by that definition, BH would be, for me, a luxurious restaurant for many meals.

I'm not sure that I am prepared at this point to respond to the various issues that have been raised recently in this thread (nor that I agree with positions taken by various members). I'd like to reiterate that Blue Hill is a very special restaurant that has a social and community awareness, a desire to take care of diners and a consistency between articulated and adopted philosophy that should be commended.

On "crap" dishes, what is the meaning intended? If "crap" means "not optimally constructed or implemented", I suspect that many restaurants in the US could produce crap dishes at least some of the time (if not much more frequently, which would be my subjective assessment), with no implications on whether CT produces crap dishes. I would agree that CT is a contender across the US, although that isn't necessarily saying a whole lot in my own book relative to restaurants in France.

ballast_regime -- In certain circumstances, I give a restaurant credit for trying to exceed the "mold", even though it may fall short. I believe that Trotter's is trying for something different, and that is a good thing. I also happen to believe that CT's is among the stronger restaurants in the US, even though that too may also not be saying too much, with all respect to restaurants in the US. Not that I don't value consistency, but if it's consistency based on cuisine that is uninspired, that could be worse under certain circumstances than cuisine that has highs and lows (not that I can make that assessment with respect to CT's cuisine at this point).

marcus -- While I do not purport to speak for Mao, I direct you to Mao's subsequent visit to BH, and his updated, positive assessments (under the Tomato dinner thread; highlighting added by me): http://forums.egullet.org/ibf/index.php?ac...&f=4&t=9816&hl=

Upon review of my own post, I note that the Wagyu beef was cooked more than I like it. However, it was presented medium and I would not consider that overcooked for beef necessarily, even though the slices of Wagyu were not particularly thick. Please ignore my inadvertent post in the other Trotter's thread. Steve -- I have never liked the cuisine at Jean-Georges, and that is not for want of having tried. I find his cuisine unbalanced. It's different from the other NY four-stars all right -- it's less balanced, for my subjective purposes. I gave J-G as the example because, relative to my own tastes, it is the weakest of the NYT four-stars. Note that I have only had one meal ever at Trotter's. Any assessments of it might therefore be premature.

[Apologies -- wrong thread for posting]

I didn't think the fish and meat was overcooked at Trotter's. However, I did not find the meal he offered inspired (note also, as always, meals in North America are evaluated by rating standards that are markedly lower than those for France.) http://forums.egullet.org/ibf/index.php?ac...36&t=11291&st=0 However, note that I find many NY restaurants with high guide ratings to be uninspired, and would eat at Trotter's over Jean-Georges for sure, among other restaurants.

Yes, or where the Chinese salted egg is utilized in the manner Ed described.

I like fermented bean curd, not just with certain vegetables, but sometimes even with rice (although I do not generally like rice). As Ed noted, the red variety is useful for cooking pork, including in certain preparations involving earthenware pots. The sharpness of fermented bean curd that Jinny noted could be useful in some of the ways that mustard is utilized in French cuisine, although admittedly fermented bean curd is more aggressive. I have been wondering about this possibility.

Apart from the molasses component, I have detected almost slight alcohol-like aromas in certain Chinese dark soy sauces (perhaps it's the fermentation). I wonder if it's because the soy was stale.

I'd appreciate your views on the utilization of cornstarch as a thickening agent in certain Cantonese dishes. I've considered this an unappealing aspect of Cantonese cuisine for some time now. I've been wondering about the role of cornstarch in certain "heen" (last minute saucing components), and indeed, about the role of the "heen".

Thanks for your detailed response. Would it be accurate to interpret your response as indicating that oil from pigs is likely still utilized from time to time at certain Chinese restaurants in the US (without indicating the names of applicable restaurants)? Speaking only for myself, I think certain Cantonese restaurants in NY would benefit from the increased use of lard in moderation. Even if chicken fat is utilized, there are certain instances where oil from pigs would be better in adding sensations that I too find difficult to pinpoint.

marcus -- My general sense from reviewing the reported meal experiences is that they conclude the cuisine at Blue Hill is at least good. The difference in assessment arises in the exact level of deliciousness subjectively experienced by different members, with myself and certain other members placing it at a very high level of attractiveness relative to other NY restaurants.

I'd appreicate your thoughts on the quality of Calmex brand canned Abalone (understanding this is clearly not as promising as many non-canned abalone; rough translation from Cantonese, "car wheel spoke" abalone, after the piccture, as you know, from its pink label). Is there a better brand of canned abalone in your view, leaving aside price considerations? http://www.dchfood.com/eng/catalog/product...ubcat=38&v_id=8 How have you prepared canned abalone (if at all)?

I'd appreciate some information on the respective roles of light and dark soy sauce in Cantonese cuisine. Are there particular products that are better suited to each type of soy, and how might the intensity and saltiness of soy be affected (if at all) by the cooking method chosen for a product that the soy accompanies?

I'd appreciate your thoughts on the respective roles of oil from pigs' fat in your cuisine and in restaurants in New York. Do you believe that certain recipes in which such oil has been utilized can be made with another type of oil, and, if so, what types of oil would be appropriate?What are your views on the role of peanut oil in modern Chinese cuisine in the US?

I'd appreciate your thoughts on why soup has traditionally occupied a role in certain Cantonese family at-home (at least) meals. What are your thoughts on whether, in such a meal, it would be more appropriate to have the soup at the beginning or at the end of a meal? In addition, what are your thoughts on the use of products in soups or other brewed concoctions that have alleged to have certain potential medical benefits (e.g., the Chinese herb "worm in the wintertime and grass in the summertime"; gingseng; the mushroom-like item "ling tze", informally translated; birds' nest)? Do you consume such products with any regularity?

To the extent you have visited Fook Lam Moon Restaurant in Hong Kong, what are your views on its cuisine? In case you are interested, below is a thread on the restaurant: http://forums.egullet.org/ibf/index.php?ac...ST&f=21&t=11440

I'd be interested in some examples of dishes in which certain Chinese wines are utilized for braising (e.g., in certain abalone preparations), are included in a marinade or sauce or are otherwise deployed. What might the unusual taste or aroma qualities of certain Chinese wines utilized in cooking be, in your assessment?

I'd appreciate your views on the role of acidity in Shanghainese cuisine, including, as you consider appropriate, examples drawn from experiences with such cuisine in the US. Please discuss some of your preferred dishes in Shanghainese cuisine, and why you have taken note of them.

Perhaps the discussion could be continued in a separate thread, so as not to conflate any issues members might want to address with the wonderful experiences at Blue Hill described in this thread. I have confidence in the wonderful and integrity-imbued manner in which BH is run.

Steve -- While I appreciated your suggestion, I ended up choosing (and, for my second meal, Chef Elena Arzak composed) a meal that was predominantly non-meat, with only one meat-driven dish in each case. For the first meal, I ordered a Bollinger R.D. 1990 at less than 100 euros (around its retail price at Fauchon, Paris) and a glass of red and sweet wine. For the other meal, the sommelier recommended the local white Txakoli, which Bux had mentioned and which was sufficient to support the cuisine. I had a glass of Rioja with the outstanding "Beef Steak and Crispy Vegetables" dish during the second meal. Excellent utilization of chives, and good quality meat from a Spanish variety of cow. The Arzak restaurant rocks!