cabrales

It was a French restaurant. French protocol, I believe, would have had you eating the food while it was hot. It's a real burden to the kitchen if someone leaves the table at an inopportune moment, but it's the restaurant's responsibility, in a restaurant of this class, to see that the food is served when everyone is there ready to eat. I don't know when the diner left the table or why the servers were caught off guard and the service failure is apart from my comments on when diners should begin eating. There's no question in my mind that you eat when the food is served to you. If there's a delay in one dish, you eat as it arrives ... I disagree that it would have been rude to start eating once you ageed to let the waiters place the food on the table ... (Breach #6) I couldn't agree with Bux more. Yes, the kitchen and dining room teams at Lespinasse should have coordinated the placement of the dish with the female guest's departure. Note that in the US the practice, even at a restaurant at that level, is more mixed than at three or two-stars in France, say. Moving on, once the dishes were set in front of the diners, it is not considered rude at an haute cuisine French restaurant of modern times to begin eating. While I have not encountered this problem frequently (given that I dine alone much of the time and separately that restuarants usually delay the placement of the dishes), I have experienced it at three-star levels and below on a very few occasions. The way I handled it at a three-star was to smile gently, looking at the waiter when the dish was presented (to signal I am reacting to the dining room team's error). Then I said in French something akin to: "Pardon me. I hope you don't mind that I begin without my dining companion. I'd like to sample the dish at the temperature the chef [note the reference to the chef] intended. I'm sure my dining companion wouldn't mind." This makes clear you recognized the restaurant's mistake, and you understand there is an argument you should have waited -- and yet you don't have to wait! The best of all possible worlds. In fact, the restaurant will then pay attention even more to your meal and you (leaving aside your dining companion, for now) will either be at least as well off, or even better off, than if the dish had not been presented in the dining companion's absence. I agree with Steven. In addition to the points made in the Lespinasse thread, I note that the diners who remained at the table could begin taking in the hot dish and then *make a verbal apology* (to the extent they felt sorry) to the missing diner. Surely, if there is impoliteness involved, it would be impoliteness towards the missing diner, and could be addressed other than by waiting -- by an apology or dialogue. Taking another example -- every diner is at the table, but some are served a hot dish first. It would be good etiquette on the part of the other diners to insist on the dish recipients starting first. However, on occasions when my dining companions have not offered that up and I see a temperature-sensitive (whether hot or cold) dish, I would mention that I was sorry for my impatience, but wanted to sample the dish at the temperature intended by the chef. I would ask whether my companions minded. (Note that, for a male dining companion in a date setting not to suggest I begin first is a negative in my book. Obviously, an even larger negative would be choosing a poor restaurant. Note the restaurant does not have to be expensive; but if it's inexpensive or expensive, it should have good qualities to its cuisine. An invitation to an eggnog latte at Starbucks can be as appealing as an inivitation to champagne.)

Senderens has gone all-out. Even the aperatifs are associated with indicative amuses-bouches that are deemed to best accompany them. http://www.lucascarton.com/amuse-bouche-us.htm

Wilfrid -- It was that price with tax and tips included?

GordonCooks -- If you are comfortable, could you please provide an indication of what you were very roughly charged for the wine pairings?

Yes. However, there is at least another dimension: the *process* of sampling for oneself a restaurant that is of a certain perceived objective quality.

Matthew -- From Mougins, Ducasse's Louis XV, which used to be a three-star, is less than 45 minutes away (in Monaco). Chibois' Bastide de St Antoine (Grasse) is less than 15 minutes away. Loubet's Moulin de Lourmarin (Lourmarin) is about 2 hours away, according to Michelin. Bruno's place at Lorgues is less than 1 hour away, although he also has Terre des Truffes in Nice.

Chef Forley -- I'd appreciate it if you could share your experiences in being a female chef as you progressed from commis de cuisine and chef de partie to co-supervisor of male chefs. What are your thoughts on the limited number of top women chefs in France? Do you have any thoughts on the respective cuisine of Anne-Sophie Pic, Reine Sammut, Ghislaine Arabian and Helene Darroze? Do you accord attention to the mentoring of female chefs and female dining room members at Verbena?

Simon & Charles -- Could you elaborate on the "live" jellyfish?

How far Bras is depends on what part of Southern France one is at. As I mentioned before, 3.5 hours is not a very long drive from Montpellier. If one is going to Bras, one is likely to stay overnight -- if not at the adjacent rooms, at least in Lagiole. How can one drive 7 hours round trip in a day while concurrently taking in a significant meal? As for the driving distance (leaving aside train for now) between Eugenie Les Bains (the very location of Guerard's place) and San Sebastian, it's 2 hours according to Michelin. (Less than 5 hours brings you from Bras' place to Eugenie, assuming you don't stop at Trama along the way) If one had a week's time, the possibilities are much wider than most people generally contemplate.

Chef Forley -- I'd appreciate a discussion of your experiences at Pres d'Eugenie and Arpege, as contrasted with your learning in the US prior to the founding of Verbena. Why did you choose these two restaurants, and what were the dishes (or types of dishes) at each that you found to be particularly appealing?

In a recent edition of French Saveurs, G Pudlowski focuses on De La Garde, 83 avenue de Segur (15th), 01.40.65.99.10. A very rough translation of certain excerpts follows: "Golden Menus and at Reasonable Prices! It's the news of the moment in Paris: fresh, modest, nice, like one likes restaurants. ... Yohann Marraccini opened a restaurant with choice tables in the quarter of the Ecole Militaire. . . . He learned from the Conticinis at La Table d'Anvers, passed by Tante Louise (one of B Loiseau's three Tante bistros in Paris) . . . ., stayed at Cuisinier Francois at the Porte de Versaille, then at Arpege with Alain Passard, and finally at La Braisiere with Bernard Vaxelaire and Jacques Faussat. . . . One has a good time with him, according to the market. . . . Crunchy ravioli of foie gras with praline effects and a millefeuille of beetroot with balsamic vinegar; tuna with sesame oil and spinach with sesame and carrots with orange [i wonder where this was "inspired" from ], veal kidneys roasted whole, flanked with a ragout of rutabaga with chervil . . . . There are sometimes too many herbs or unduly large quantities of accompaniments. But the overall dish seduces, at low prices . . . ." Menus are indicated to be 22-29 euros. Below is another report on De La Garde: http://www.bparis.com/newsletter1464/newsl...m?doc_id=130097

It appears that one of the early decisions is how much effort (if any) Matthew might want to make to cover as many three-stars as possible. It is not entirely easy to cover all the three southern French three-stars during a trip, but it would appear doable under an itinerary that would be considerably less leisurely than the one Matthew might be contemplating. Continuing my previously suggested itinerary (for travelers interested in maximizing three-stars accessed), one could, as Bux suggested, go even further after accessing Guerard's Pres d'Eugenie. One could take the train from Pau (Eugenie is within 30-45 minutes by car of Pau), and take the train to Hendaye (whether or not through Biarritz or Bayonne). From Hendaye, one could follow the directions described in the "Berasategui" thread in the Spain forum to access (1) two three-stars (Arzak and Berasategui) and (2) two two-stars (Zuberoa and Akelarre). There are many other options by train from Southern France as well. One could, from certain points, access Lyons for even more opportunities. Steve P and I have previously discussed how best to access Michael Bras. If it actually does take 3-4 hours from Clermont Ferrand to drive to Laguiole, it might be advantageous to access it from Montpellier, from which the drive is no more than 3.5 hours and which has three-starred Jardin des Sens. I am not a strong driver, and even I was able to make the drive from Montpellier to Laguiole in 3.5 hours. Note I am not advocating a hectic schedule based on the above. I am merely noting the possibilities.

Vivremanger -- I've been to Peltier's shop in the 7th, post P.C. assumption of supervisory responsibilities. Interestingly, there are not just patisseries, but also a significant "traiteur" operation. There are, among other things, assorted terrines containing "unexpected" (for traditional French terrines) products. I sampled several, and, although their ingredient combinations sounded fine, found the taste at best average. My expectations had been rather high, and I was disappointed. On J-P Hevin, I have never visited the shop. However, I hear there are different cheese in chocolates, and have wondered about that.

The green miso had little crunchy bits accompanying it (kind of like sweetened miniscule croutons).

Jinmyo -- I do not know what green miso is. However, the menu clearly described the three misos as including green miso. It tasted somewhat chlorophyll-like, but still sweet (unclear whether from added sugar). The red miso reminded me of red bean, in the rendition offered at the restaurant. Each type of miso was matched with a different type of sprinkled item (e.g., black sesame seeds in the case of the white miso, white sesame seeds in the case of the red miso).

The pork belly did not appear to have miso components to the sauce. I forgot to mention I took in the Japanese eggplant with three miso flavors (green, white, red) as well. This dish was good, although the quantity of miso placed on top of each eggplant piece was on the high side for my subjective tastes and I removed some of the miso paste from each piece.

I had a bordering-on-good dinner at Saka Gura tonight. After last night's attempt (Sushi Yasuda meal ensued), I was determined to arrive slightly earlier (although still without a reservation). The decor is modern for a Japanese restaurant, and, as described by Nina, pleasing. Like Nina & Simon M, I began wtih a flight of sake. The front page of one the menu for sake flights has a two-dimensional grid with respect to richer vs. less taste, and more vs. less fragrant. Having chosen the richer taste/more fragrant quartile of the grid (Jukushu or Aged type), I asked the bar member to make a recommendation of flights. She selected the least expensive one, with two sakes: (1) Denshin Tokubetsu Jumai (I liked this), and (2) Niwa No Uguisu Junmai (average-minus), for $7/flight. I was to later order a glass of the Denshin Tokubetsu Jumai. According to the sake menu, Junmai refers to wine made from pure rice that has been polished down to no more than 70% of its original size. No alcohol or sugar is added. I began with an Onsen Tamago (Soft boiled egg topped with sea urchin and salmon roe in cold soup; $9). Served in a martini glass was cold bonito broth that seemed unduly sweet. However, the dish was good, and offered salmon roe (not particularly salty, appropriately) that was "swimming" in the broth. A large piece of appropriate uni, and, more significantly, a whole soft boiled egg. The white was nicely done, but it was the intact yolk (not runny, but a very soft solid) that was the most subjectively appealing. I ordered another of these later in the meal. With the egg, I received the oldest sake available at the restaurant currently -- an eight-year-aged sake called Yashiori No Sake, from Shimane ($15/glass). It was alright. Hirame Unimaki (Sea urchin rolled with sliced fluke, basil sauce; $15) was poor. The strength of the sea urchin taste was not an attractive combination with the basil sauce, and the dish lacked internal consistency. Buta Kukuni (Stewed diced pork; aka pork belly; $4.50/piece for a good-sized piece) was average-plus. The fatty components and the texture were as Nina described, but I found the saucing unduly sugary. Guy Tataki (Japanese style seared beef sashimi; $8.50) was fairly good. The beef was offered in a good amount, in slices (of course, for sashimi) that had streaks of fat (it was not wagyu). The saucing had a bit of acidity, and there was grated radish with a sour-like sauce. I finished with ice cream ($6-7): one scoop of ume (plum, from which is made sour plums or umeboshi, although this version was relatively subtle and appropriate) and one scoop of sake (average-minus). Overall, a bordering-on-good meal for $120 (tax and tips included). Modern composition to some of the dishes. Service was eager and fairly responsive.

I've been to Jewel Bako twice, but have only had sea urchin there embedded in a Chawanmusi dish. I prefer JB because of its composed "appetizer" (i.e., pre-sushi or sashimi) dishes.

He said they were South African Gooseberries.

Nina, her beau and I attended an Armagnac tasting at D'Artagnan early this evening. The Armagnac furnished was so-so, although one from the 1970s had nice caramelised scents on the nose and tasted fine. It was preferable to a bottle from the 1950s. The tasting was $15/person, which was not a bad deal. We were served mini baguette-based sandwich pieces filled with (1) a small piece of saucisson atop a bit of truffled butter, and (2) a terrine with mushroom components. Also served to us as a nice-tasting piece of confit of quail egg, with mashed French white beans smeared below it. I tried to visit the restaurant reported on recently by Nina and Simon M. However, the place was relatively busy even at the sushi bar, and I proceeded to Sushi Yasuda. I was fortunately placed right adjacent to Chef Yasuda. Two pieces of luscious, fatty O-Toro opened my meal. A nice presentation of both the cheek area and regular O-Toro (priced the same). Then: a $22-27 item from the menu of five selections of sashimi. I ordered fluke, squid, Spanish mackerel, orange clam and a white fish as part of this selection (good quantities for this part of the meal). Then, sashimi: abalone; geso (squids' legs); giant clam (excellent tonight); and four orders of sashimi of uni (served with a bit of lemon) I really enjoyed the uni. Currently, John Dory looks good (unsampled, as St Pierre is commonly offered in France). Also, there is a special seasonal product called myoga (spelling unclear), a vegetable which has tastes of ginger and a scallion-like consistency. From the special appetizers menu, I ordered a tofu made of codfish roe. Chef Yasuda noted he created this dish. It tasted very soft, almost like custard, and had slight sweetness (very limited). The codfish roe taste was not discernible in the tofu. A ponzu sauce accompanied the tofu, appropriate, but not remedying the intrinsic mediocre nature of the tofu. Mochi, green tea flavor, finished the meal. I like the mattness and bitterness of the dry green tea powder liberally found on the plate. Overall, a good-to-very-good meal. With an order of sake, $120 with tips and tax included.

riboflavinjoe -- I agree that the bonbons of foie gras are at best average. At Jardin des Sens, I sampled them and their presentation was not poor. In addition to the attributes you describe, this dish had a concentric, bulls-eye type swirl of burgundy-colored sauce. Sadly, the taste of the item was not impressive. The idea of deep frying with some type of foie gras component is a good one. I haven't sampled a version taht has been properly executed, however. The deepfrying should be really done at the last minute. Marc Meneau's cromesqui de foie gras have a better conceptual foundation, but were still unattractive when sampled. I recently saw Meneau's receipe in a book on foie gras. The book contained a number of foie gras recipes, including one from Gagnaire. The book appeared overprice,d however.

A sommelier who heads a large team of sommeliers at a two-star in London, and who is known for liking to sell expensive wine. I order an ordinary wine (for that restuarant), and he is extremely chatty, commenting about the wine even before serving it and providing comp'd champagne. Throughout the evening, even though he has many other clients, he is constantly by my table. I am trying to sample the dishes (not that they were particularly impressive), but he remains very chatty and referring to the various senses available to a person. He talks about trips to France for selecting wine, and how many cellar storage spaces he has in London and Paris. Of course, the inevitable question: whether I wanted to see one of his off-site cellars under some sort of bridge or building, posed after he gave me a plateful of perhaps 6-7 physallis (after I commented I liked the one physallis in the plate of mignardise).

On banquets (as opposed to other restaurant meals), particularly wedding or birthday banquets or dinners to celebrate the first month birthday of a newborn, a typical progression in today's times might be as indicated below. Note that more opulent banquets might follow a different model. -- If suckling pig is offered or pork wrapped in lettuce is offered, the dish would tend to be presented early. Dishes that tend to be presented early also include a platter of various cold cuts (e.g., sliced pork, sliced octupus, marinated jellyfish); such a platter would be presented as the first or second dish. -- A less thick soup would also tend to be presented early in a banquet, although in non-banquet meals the sequencing of the soup is not necessarily in the beginning in all cases. This might be something like a wintermelon hollowed up, with bouillon and various diced meats inside, or a soup with fish maw. -- If sharks' fin is included in the menu, a soup is less likely. The sharks' fin would likely be the second or third dish in a long menu, also relatively early. Sharks' fin can be either served as soup or braised. Traditional accompaniments are: (1) vinegar, (2) bean sprouts, and (3) some type of special Chinese ham. -- Then, I have not ascertained a necessary pattern to the remaining savory courses (e.g., seafood, meats). As Ed noted, there probably is a method to the presentation, however. -- Typically, a combination of usually two of fried rice, fried noodles (sometimes regular, othertimes e-fu or other types), and noodles (sometimes with dumplings -- not typically wontons, but more elongated ones) is served before dessert. White rice is generally not served at this phase, although it might have been available at earlier points in the meal to accompany the savory dishes.

Steve P -- Well, Gagnaire is not the only game in town, as you know. For example, I have not visited Taillevent under Solliveres (when did he actually start, I wonder). So the question posed by ajay about Gagnaire, as opposed to another three-star, is still relevant. If people must know, here is why I'm considering adding Gagnaire at the lunch level to my next trip (leaving aside subsequent trips): (1) I already have plans to revisit four of the other Parisian three-stars during this trip, (2) I probably dislike Gagnaire's cuisine more than I do Ducasse's version at Plaza Athenee, but Gagnaire's cuisine is still a bit more interesting than Ducasse's (also, I looked at the Ducasse website and the menu hasn't changed meaningfully from the last time I was there in 2Q 2002), and (3) I don't have anything against L'Ambroisie or Grand Vefour, but I don't have anything particularly driving me towards going to revisit them either, having visited them earlier this year as well.

nightscotsman -- I didn't know he had such prices as of May 2002. Is it possible his prices were always this low for lunch prix fixe and I never knew?