cabrales

Margaret -- Those exchange rates are very good. By the way, I believe two of the best "bureau de change" in Paris are (1) the two Paris Vision stores, including one very close to the place near L'Opera where Roissybus drops passengers off from CDG, and (2) a single bureau de change in a shopping mall on the Champs Elysees (forget the name; members beware, others are very expensive). Members should be careful about commissions charges on top of the posted rate. At Paris Vision, there are no additional commissions charges, and the buy and sell rate for USD cash generally provide a relatively low spread.

The "baseline" level is indeed high at most French two- and three-stars. However, I believe some are capable of performing at yet higher levels. For example: Edouard Loubet's baseline cuisine is very good (in my opinion one of the strongest two stars in France, together with Lorain). Even though his "regular" tasting menu is very good in quality, composition and quantity, he can offer more delicious meals when he gifts special dishes and provides samplings of a la carte dishes not included in the tasting menu. He doesn't necessarily provide such extras upon request to all diners.

I haven't paid attention to this, but are exchange rates and service charges reasonable when US ATM cards are utilized in France?

I'm not a supertaster, but I believe that in France my comments on cuisine (e.g., individual dishes with which I have no background prior to arriving at the restaurant) generally do lead to special treatment when the restaurant is starred (together with being appropriately dressed up and speaking French). Comments should be incisive, but initially not abundant in quantity. Knowledge of wine and elegant table manners are helpful.

I usually use AmEx, but I still keep a Visa and a Mastercard around for use in Europe (particularly the Visa).

Nina -- If you are comfortable doing so, could you provide a very rough indication of price range, for the food and for the flight of sakes? How many sake varieties were included in a typical flight? Are the tapas-like items ordered individually, or is it chefs' choice at a specified price level?

ajay -- Thanks for accurately recalling my history with respect to Gagnaire's cuisine. I've sampled his cuisine on various occasions, including lunch and dinner, tasting menus or not, etc. I have not been subjectively satisfied with any meal he has provided. However, I might still go there (not necessarily within the next quarter) (1) out of curiosity about recent developments, and (2) having a large lunch might be difficult before a meaningful dinner at a restaurant I prefer. By going to a restaurant where I could just taste a little bit of each course and where there would be a more "restrained" menu relative to the regular degustation, I could "save" capacity for dinner. It has become difficult of late for me to take in two significant meals a day.

Steve -- I couldn't agree more with your indication of your assessment of the potential of the food at a given restaurant, as being important to whether you undertake effort. Who would want to become a regular at a restaurant if the restaurant did not offer exceptional cuisine? Without exceptional cuisine, I wouldn't subjectively want attention in many circumstances. I wouldn't want to feel akward if I merely wanted to stop by and have a relatively rapid or simple meal. I wouldn't want to be unresponsive when the chef came by and asked me how the meal had progressed. I wouldn't want to have to finish the entire portion on a plate, particularly when I was on a diet. Conversely, for a restaurant that I truly appreciate, no incremental "effort" would actually be required. I would want to take in cuisine there.

More than two years ago, I learned from Citibank that only passwords for ATMs that have four or fewer digits work in Europe. I don't know if that remains the case. My card works whereever there is the "Cirrus" logo, and that is about almost everywhere. I do not utiilze credit cards for phones in France. I find that charges are not entirely predictable, and I usually buy the Telecarte (which is a bit expensive per minute to some places, but which at least is transparent with respect to charges). I also buy other phone cards that can be utilized in hotels and at other phones. I have not yet purchased a local "chip" for my GSM mobile phone, but that appears to be a promising avenue.

Recently, P Gagnaire instituted a "menu du marche" (market menu), available only during lunch, at approx. 85 euros. That's a good opportunity, on which I intend to capitalize shortly (despite not liking Gagnaire's cuisine).

In France, at one-or-greater star facilities, it would be better in my assessment to order at least a glass of wine (and bottled water). While I usually order 1/2 bottles or full bottles for meals I care about, when (1) I am no a diet, (2) have had too much to drink during a period, and/or (3) have two significant meals planned during a day, I sometimes order by the glass. Ironically, it's not unexpected for me to do that, as I am a solo woman dinner (not that that stereotype is appropriate in any way). I get comp'd on champagne by the glass, dessert wine by the glass and other wines by the glass with some frequency, regardless of whether I have also ordered a 1/2 bottle or bottle. I order by the glass a great deal in the US, as a solo diner. If I don't expect the cuisine to be particularly memorable, I might feel that a less-than-very good wine would suffice. I am also a relative newbie in the world of wines, and am pursuing the sampling of more and more wines.

There's no question in my mind -- if your budget permits, Tetsuya for the cuisine. (Note for members from other regions -- the cuisine is thankfully better than Mju versions) However, given the wonderful seafood available in Australia, I wonder if there might be a seafood specialist with a romantic ambiance.

Ann -- I have had abalone at Fook Lam Moon a number of times. I don't know when I will resample the dish. At FLM, as Ed suggested is commonplace for restaurants, the dried abalone is utilized. The drying might not entail just drying (?), for the resulting flavors appear more complex and French (one form is "hormeaux"), Mexican and Australian fresh abalone do not appear to have the depth and intensity of flavor than the dried ones, particularly at FLM. Following rehydration, the abalone is braised in a medium-to-dark-brown colored sauce that itself has gelatinous textures (likely from the utilization in the braising/stewing of chicken feet or certain pork spareribs, which can impart that texture and which are not served to the client -- this is at least one of the traditional methods for conferring texture). The sauce is a key part of the abalone dish at FLM and elsewhere, and typically contains soy, some sort of stock predicated on meat (?) and some type of Chinese wine with which I am unfamiliar. It must contain some sugar as well, for it has a balance that would be difficult to achieve without it. In more informal parlance, abalone price is determined based on "tow" (translated, "heads"), meaning the number of abalone that make up a specified weight (with the smaller "tow" representing larger abalone and becoming more expensive in a non-linear fashion). At least for some clients (?), FLM allows BYO without corkage. I have taken in abalone there with, for example, Lynch-Bagues, Ducru Beaucaillou (spelling?) and Mouton-Rothschilds. All work reasonably well. Some regular clients can keep bottles of digestifs at the restaurant for their own use. Clients of FLM appear to favor cognac. I have never sampled "Ah Yut" (that's not the English name, but merely the informal translation of a name that means humbly "Number One" in Chinese), which appears to be among the stronger perceived competitors for FLM with respect to abalone and which is an abalone specialist. I hear from multiple sources that Ah Yut is not as good as FLM, however. One has to be very careful in purchasing dried or canned abalone, whether in Asia or in the US. There are even "imposter" cans of Calmex. In NY, I checked with the importer from Hong Kong to verify that Kam Moon (informal translation, probably not the name of the place in English) on Canal (one of the larger supermarkets, the one with the top floor that has a counter for tea smoked eggs, chicken, BBQ duck and with a basement area) carries authentic cans. At Kam Moon, a can of Calmex runs more than US$40 or 50 (unclear), I vaguely recall. A Calmex can might contain a single large abalone, or it might contain 1 medium sized one and a part of another. The liquid inside the can should be preserved, if one wants to heat up the abalone. The Calmex variety lacks the feeling of elasticity and depth one finds in the best abalones, and I am looking for a substitute (if available). However, it is the best canned abalone I have sampled (I will pursue the alternative mentioned in this thread) and it is appropriate. Huevos -- That sounds wonderful. I have thought about doing that for geoduck, after hearing on the Pacific Northwest board that certain beaches have geoduck spottings.

Speaking of not being bound by externally-derived norms, I wondered how top French restaurants might broadly react if I were to decline both dessert and cheese at the end of a meal. There are times when I am simply too full to take in dessert or cheese. Other times, I am continuing feeble efforts at a diet. Do members have experience with such an approach at a three- or two-star level?

The version of Conde Nast Traveler I just received contains a lengthy article by Moira Hodgson on Stockholm, entitled "So Long, Smorgasbord". The article speaks of a "new Swedish cuisine" (i.e., a reinvention). "One of the biggest changes that has taken place is that whereas Swedes used to look to France and Switzerland for ideas and inspiration, they are now getting them from America and Great Brittan. Chefs such as Charlie Trotter, Bobby Flay (!!), and Alfred Portale (!) have has enormous influence (as, of course, has [Marcus] Samuelsson), and from England, so have Marco Pierre White (!!), Gordon Ramsay, and Albert Roux." The discussed restaurants are: Bon Lloc Edsbacka Krog Fjaderholmarnas Krog Fredgatan 12 Operakallaren Pontus in the Greenhouse Ulriksdals Wardshus Villa Kallhagen Wedholms Fisk

I forgot to mention Bras has significant periodic closures.

Steve P -- If you are comfortable discussing it, could you consider discussing how much you are charged for a menu of the type described and whether you are charged corkage for the handling of your wines.

I vaguely recall Allison on Dominick had closed.

Vivremanger -- I remember the apple slice on top as not being entirely dried, as having some suppleness (limited). That surprised me slightly.

Well, there would be three three-stars in potential play (Pourcels' Jardin des Sens in Montpellier; Guerard's Pres d'Eugenie; and Bras' place at Laguiole). There's also former three star Louis XV in Monaco, operated by Ducasse. Depending on how many three stars you wanted to visit, I would suggest visiting Jardin des Sens in Montpellier (there's a direct TGV to Montpellier from Paris, if you are using the Eurostar; however, one of the short-haul airlines has a flight from some London airport to Montpellier, I believe). I personally don't like the Poucels' cooking, but this restaurant is very modern-looking. I have driven from JdS to Bras' place in Laguiole (less than 3.5 hours). Perhaps two meals at Bras (I took in three on my first and only visit, and that was a bit too much). Then, a long drive through Puymirol (Michael Trama's place, which I have never visited) could bring you to Guerard's Pres d'Eugenie. That way, you would hit all three of the Southern France three stars. Guerard has a less inexpensive place that I have always wanted to sample, Ferme des Grives, also at Eugenie. He has a spa there too -- some of the water treatments are a bit mediocre, but one treatment is a milky-textured "bath" utilizing clay. It's nice. On two stars, I strongly recommend Le Moulin de Lourmarin, which is very close to Aix. The little town of Lourmarin also has Renne Samut's one-star (Auberge de la Feniere), although I don't like her cooking. I also like Bruno's place at Lorgues (spelling) -- inexpensive and an easy drive from Le Moulin de Lourmarin (between Nice and Marseilles, not along the coast). A good place to sample truffles, although you might get frozen ones if they are not in season. There is Terre des Truffes in Nice supervised by Bruno as well, as recently discussed on the French board.

On the Buddha Bar, it is terrible, but it was very busy during 4Q 2001 when I visited. I ordered a sushi plate that was very poor (I was on a diet at the time as well). The drinks were passable, but seats were very difficult to come by.

Hmm -- The Canada forum reports that the Pourcels were in Montreal just last night. They must be returning to Paris soon for the described event. The upcoming Gagnaire event appears worthwhile, even though I do not necessarily like Gagnaire's cuisine.

If members can believe it, I was recently directed to the INS Agriculture inspector for having declared that I had food purchased abroad with me. I disclosed I had cans of French foie gras and even said canned duck and goose liver (in case foie gras sounded too esoteric). Once I got to the inspector, I was waved by quickly.

Have members visited Bouley for lunch recently? I noted that the Bouley website no longer has the prix fixe lunch tasting menu listed. The prix fixe dinner tasting menu remains. http://www.bouley.net/hires/menus.html#