cabrales

At least Bittman didn't tout "C" Restaurant, which would have been a travesty.

Helena -- You could, for example, collaborate on the macaron tasting.

pirate -- Perhaps the restaurant that previously lived up to your expectations could do so again?

pirate -- When you have a chance, please discuss why you consider Tokyo to be stronger than Paris. I'd have to disagree, although my dining experience in Tokyo is rather limited.

Encouraged by the posts in this thread, I proceeded to The Steakhouse at Fairway for lunch. I wondered whether the steaks were available for brunch/lunch on Sundays, and called in advance in the late morning. I asked "Do you have steak now", to which the response was "yes". I further asked whether Beacon Wine & Liquor, which is directly across the street was then open, to which the answer was "no". From such exchanges, I would have imagined there was no ambiguity about my intentions to go to the restaurant for lunch! Imagine my disappointment when I arrived and discovered that the Fairway Cafe has a completely different, non-steak-oriented menu in place for lunch today. I politely asked why I had been told there was steak, to which the laughable response was that "Steak and Eggs" (a different kind of steak) was on the brunch menu. Pl---ease. If a place that is a steakhouse at least part-time receives a call regarding steak being available, steaks and eggs, the brunch dish, should not count; at least the dining room team member should clarify what the situation was. I was very dissatisfied with the restaurant on this account, as I had had the foresight to inquire and had been mislead. Still, I proceeded to be seated and ordered the 1/2 roasted chicken with french fries and garlic mayonnaise (between $8 and 10). Signfiicant utilization of rosemary, and parts of the skin of the chicken were fine. However, the intrinsic quality of the chicken was mediocre (this is a refrain in my review of most chicken dishes in the US) and the dish overall was average-minus. The fries were average-minus, and the garlic mayo lacked robustness. Overall, a disappointing performance by the restaurant, although I obviously did not sample the steak. The service seemed amateurish. For example, I brought an inexpensive bottle of CA red (thank goodness it was only an average wine) and the dining room team member opened it in a way that left 1/3 of the cork floating in the wine. Also, as mentioned by Steve P, there were no wine glasses. Members contemplating BYO would be well-advised to bring their own glasses; the ones available are not acceptable. The Steakhouse's menu is as follows. The Steakhouse operates from Tuesday through Sunday, 5 pm through 9 pm. Note that no lunch availability is in place. A. The Meal Complete: USDA Prime Dry-Aged Steaks for $35 -- Choice of: Caesar salad, French onion soup gratin, Iceberg lettuce with Roquefort, Boiled shrimp ($4 supp). -- Choice of: NY Strip steak, Filet, Rib Eye, Steak au Poivre (sauces: Bernaise; shallot butter; Peter Luger sauce ), Served with Creamed Spinach, Mashed Potatoes, Roasted Mushrooms B. First Course, a La Carte -- Caesar Salad, 6.95 -- French Onion Soup, 6.95 -- Iceberg lettuce, etc. 5.00 -- Boiled shrimp, 12.00 C. Sides, a La Carte (all $4): Fries; Creamed Spinach; Mashed Potatoes; Roasted Mushrooms; Macaroni & Cheese; Parsnip Turnip Puree; Hash Browns; Potatoes Gratin; Roasted Red Onion D. Entrees, a La Carte Two jumbo crab cakes, 14.50 Grilled marinated tuna, 14.00 Pair of grilled double lamp chops, 18.50 Cornish game hens, 11.00 Fairway burger with fries, 10.00 Rigatoni with sweet sausage and arugula, 11.00 Penne with roasted tomato and basil, 11.00 Market fish E. Desserts (all $4.50) Old-fashioned Chocolate Layer CAke Chocolate Galette Apple Pie a la Mode Vanilla or Chocolate Ice-Cream, served with caramel or hot chocolate sauce Cupcakes Lemon Meringue Tart

The October 15, 2002 edition of Wine Spectator provides a detailed article on Vrinat's life, and notes the following: "This year marks [Jean-Claude] Vrinat's 40th anniversary at Taillevent. . . . Another project . . . . is presently in the works: He plans to unveil a Taillevent bakery soon. . . . . He is disgusted too by the state of French baking, which is why Taillevent is getting into the baguette business: 'In general, I now get better bread in Tokyo than I do in Paris. We've destroyed so many things.'"

Steve -- I liked my wood pigeon. UP used to be one of my favorite restaurants in the US (that's a significant qualifier); I guess it still is. Suzanne -- If you're sure, then it was a Burgundy. I vaguely recall the wine list mentioning that it was a Bordeaux, though (?).

I had a good-to-very-good meal at Union Pacific. The restaurant is now offering a $45 prix fixe menu for the pre-theater period (seating prior to 5:45 pm for Saturdays, prior to 6:00 pm on other days) that offers *the same* selection as UP's regular $68 prix fixe menu. Taylor Bay Scallops with uni, tomato water, and mustard oil, with glass of Paul Georg Blanc de Blanc Wild Scottish Wood Pigeon, with porcini and a winesap chutney ($9 supp), with glass of Pinot Noir Ladoix "Vieilles Vignes", Edmond Cornu 1998 Lemon three ways with Pistachio Cream, with Muscat Beaume de Venise, Belingard 2000 [Chocolate fondant with vanilla ice cream and huckleberry sauce, complimentary] The amuse was a small serving of haricot verts, with a bit of dark proscuitto on top and an acidic apricot vinaigrette. This was appropriate, and a nice, quiet opening to the meal. The haricots were appropriately "crisp". Then, my first sampling of DiSpirito's signature dish of Taylor bay scallops with uni. This was appealing, with a large circular base of ice with strewn strands of evergreen- and mauve-colored seaweed on top of the ice. Five to six small (clam-sized) scallop shells sat on top of the ice. Each contained about a 50/50 split of nicely-textured scallop and sea urchin, together with a clear liquid that had acidity. I thought it was the citrus-like, "clean" aspects of yuzu and was right, although the mustard oil also expressed itself a bit towards the end to a very limited extent. The dining room team member indicated the scallops were to be held in one's fingers and kind of "drunk" to capture the liquid, essentially a tomato water with relatively limited tomato aspects. Overall, a very good dish. There followed a small cup of pumpkin veloute, which was nice. The wood pigeon was from Scotland, and perhaps that accounted for it having a somewhat different flavor from the palombes I have sampled. However, the wood pigeon was a good dish, although not as unabashedly "gamey" as palombe. (Note it was sufficiently gamey). The flesh was presented medium-rare, which was appropriate -- flavorful and evocative. Nice thin layers of cepes aka porcini (sliced relatively thinly from large mushrooms) and celeryroot, almost in a loose "medium" millefeuille or thin lasagne composition. Saucing was appealing, with jus-focused base and connotations of the texture of chestnuts (likely not included) and the taste of mushrooms. There was a "loose" "ring" of very softened (appropriately) potato puree surrounding the base of the vegetable millefeuille-like item. UP has wine by the glass suggested for every dish on the menu. For the wood pigeon, the suggested glass was Cinsaut, Frick 1999. This was apparently a single grape CA wine developed from a Rhone varietal. The sommelier advised me that it acquires some of the properties of 15-yr-old Bordeaux (note the word "some") within 4-5 years, and this vintage would be drinking nicely for a very short period of time in about 1-2 years (with significant tapering off). I tasted a decent amoutn of the Cinsaut grauit from the sommelier, who was very helpful. The Bordeaux I ordered by the glass was nice. The three forms of lemon included in my dessert were (1) panna cotta, (2) custard, ,and (3) sorbet. The panna cotta was nice, with hints of possible pistachio (the aroma of almond, which I appreciate was not utilized) incorporated. The custard was a large cube-shaped serving that was appropriate, with a little base of lemon sponge-cake-like material. The sorbet was slightly weak, being too tart for the overall composition of the dish. The pistachio saucing, which carried quasi-almond aromas, was nice. Overall, a good dessert. I did not have very much of the comp'd chocolate fondant, given my subjective preferences, but it was appropriate. The total bill was $110 before tips, a good price taking into account the three glasses of wine ordered by the glass (includikng a $18 Bordeaux) and bottled water. The service was good, except that there was an (honest) initial miscalculation that included the price of the "normal" prix fixe, instead of the pre-theater menu. Nice service from a French manager-level individual. Note that UP is serving a white truffle risotto with gameri rossi and a tomato fondue ($45 supp for appetizer size, $75 supp for entree).

Bourdain's episode on FN last night addressed San Sebastian. Arzak's kitchen table was depicted, and among the items served was a poached egg dish.

I had an at best average dinner at Le Bateau Ivre last night. The small restaurant is dominated by a busy bar area to the left-hand-side of the entryway. When I arrived, fatigued from work, a thin young French woman gestured to the dining room team member to place me at the small tables adjacent to the bar. I asked for a table in the "restaurant"-driven area, and received a mediocre one in the middle of the room. Unfazed, I ordered half a dozen Blue Points. They were nice; the glass of Pouilly Fume, Pascal Jolivet 1997ordered was average. I proceeded to an Assiette (plate) of Foie Gras Terrine Maison (House), which was poor. The foie gras might have been on the verge of going bad, and I did not finish it. I had a glass of Montbazillac with this. Then, a steak tartare, which was unduly sweet -- in a way that affected the sampling of the quite good meat and textures. There was no egg component that was separate; the dining room team member indicated egg had already been incorporated. I had a glass of Saint-Emilion. Overall, an average meal (around $85 before tips).

The November 2002 edition of Bon Appetit describes Traci Des Jardin (Jardiniere)'s Acme Chophouse, which is located close to PacBell PArk: "once again has hit a home run . . . Acme uses mostly hormone-free meats and organic produce. 'The steaks are some of the best in the city,' says Michael Bauer, features editor and restaurant critic for the San Francisco Chornicle. But his favoreite dish is the tartare. 'The word "silken" was intvented to describe the texture of this meat, choppped finely and served with a quail egg in the middle.' That one dish alone has diners pleading, 'Take me out near the ball game . . . .'" I wonder if members have sampled the steak at Acme.

Note I couldn't say the dishes were uniform in quality, though. For example, the pork dish was rather dry and the steak (due to the nature of the steak utilized, according to Wilfrid) was rather overcooked and was not at the rare level we had requested. Note also we did not sample the roasted chicken, as it was sold out.

I'm not sure about the good looking women part as it applied to me, but I didn't expect Trotter to necessarily speak at length with us or sit with us. However, to not even acknowledge us with a nod or a "hello, hope you have a good meal" indication is, to me, being impolite. It was literally as though our table did not exist that night to CT.

The November/December 2002 Departures magazine notes the following: "In his new Bin 27 port-flavored truffles, the silky, almost bitter chocolate ganache filling is a perfect foil for syrupy, cassis-scented port (Fonseca Bin no. 27). Excellent on their own, they are even better with a glass of you-know-what."

I noted the following snipet on a website, the accuracy of which I have no assurances about: "Ghislaine Arabian has left France to work in Japan. Her team has taken on, redecorating the restaurant, thus changing the atmosphere into a cosy one . . . ." http://www.relais-christine.com/EnglishVer.../actualites.htm (a small hotel's website)

Chamaree (the restaurant name has since been changed) is the subject of a recent Gilles Pudlowski "Restaurant of the Month" article in French Saveurs. A very rough translation follows: The Island of Mauritius Winks at Paris An old restaurant has been taken up by a winning trio and transformed into an appealing place where the cuisine navigates between France and the island of Mauritius. Antoine Herrah and Chantal Dias, associated with a former sous-chef of Alain Passard, Jerome Bodereau, have created one of the [culinary] events of the yaer in retaking the former "Boule d'Or". The metamorphosis is complete. The old restaurant, which used to e a bit cold, has been redecorated in the colors of volcanic earth of Chamarel on the island of Mauritius. On the walls, there are appliques similar to the origami style; in the room, honey-colored banquettes and leather seats in a chocolate color set the tone. The service is discrete, civil and disciplined. Everything has a sobre chic aspect to it. But the nice surprise is definitely on the plate, with Franco-exotic flavors that are frank and light, with highly capable technique. A presse of rabit with foie gras and aubergine, marlin with crunchy vegetables, snails with a mousseline of spinach and caper butter, sea bream with an etuvee of onions and mango -- everything, like the side of lamb with a fine emulsion containing garlic skin -- is a significant success. The same applies to the vegetables, which are seasoned with ginger and a trace of lemon, after having been quickly sauteed in butter. The desserts, like a savarin laced with rum or a gelee of exotic fruits, are all appealing. This is a table that will write on a clean slate! My visit suggested a less tasty cuisine than Pudlowski describes, but our relative assessments are not unusual, I have noted, for a number of Parisian restaurants.

robert -- There wasn't anything else that was important, and I do not believe it is available over the net. The article is a bit unclear with respect to basic info, I agree.

Below is an article by Alison James in the October 21-27 edition of Variety ("Star eateries starving as Parisians bite bullet"): "[T]he two celeb-centric eateries [Kurova and Paris branch of Nobu] are in deep trouble. Both filed for the French equivalent of Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection recently --- amid accusations of mismanagement --- along with the trendiest patisserie in Paris: Pierre Herme. All three establishments have a shareholder in common, ubiquitous TV presenter/ producer Jean-Luc Delarue, whose success in the TV biz has apparently proved more difficult to replicate in the risky business of upmarket restauranting. . . . A telephone call to the Korova went unanswered, but Nobu was still open for business last week. . . ."

lizziee -- Regarding your concerns, the reaction has been quite the contrary to that about which you worry, although I can only speak for myself. I have very much appreciated your posts, including on a number of restaurants (like the subject of this thread and Pre Catelan) that I have never visited. Please keep posting.

Nina -- Cozy as in cramped? Slightly (kaiseki is sometimes associated with more luxurious surroundings, I guess). Cozy as in a homestyle, friendly environment? Yes.

I agree that Blue Smoke is nothing special, although I had outstanding company when I visited for the only time to date.

As of 2Q 2002 at least, Sugiyama was a good place to go. The non-sashimi and sashimi-related items were both good, including the US-bred Kobe-type beef which is served on a little piece of rock or a burner (I forget). I remember good abalone sashimi; note the most expensive kaiseki level was ordered, I believe. It's necessary, for the experience, to be seated at the sushi bar. You may wish to consider the below thread: http://forums.egullet.org/ibf/index.php?s=...369&hl=sugiyama

Steve P -- No, I was merely responding to the question of why one might dine at restaurants that one dislikes. If I visit a restaurant the cuisine of which I dislike, that does not mean I have a bad time. Nor does it mean I do not enjoy the process of visiting the restaurant. It probably means there is a reaffirmation of why I do not particularly like the cuisine of that restaurant, and that would be a constraint on the type of experience offered by the restaurant. I don't have high expectations of most restaurants I visit for the first time. Sadly, that doesn't necessarily decrease my disappointment at times.

ellenesk -- You might want to consider the "Search" function (right-hand-side top corner of the board) to locate older threads.

lizziee -- Did you initiate discussion with the dining room team about why the restaurant may have lost its third star?