cabrales

bpearis -- The restaurant is quite proactive about calling guests to confirm their table the day before, or the day of, the reservation. If that has not yet occurred, call and consider the following: "[Confirmation of reservation] See you tonight -- I'm looking forward to sampling your cuisine; I've heard such good things about it on eGullet." (Note I wouldn't recommend this for other restaurants, with a very few exceptions)

Girardet's book is 40% off at Jessica's Biscuit; its current price is $24. http://www.ecookbooks.com/index.html A number of French cuisine books appear to be decently priced as well.

The garden room is 100% enclosed/covered, and is different from the outside area (also in the back) which is also sometimes deployed during the summertime. bpearis -- You might want to mention your membership in the site to the dining room team member.

Kikujiro -- I disagree with many of the above legal provisions. They assume a passive, "waiting to be spoon fed" diner who doesn't know anything about the general restaurant landscape and who has no common sense. If I were talking along the road, were hungry and stumbled upon, say, Petrus, I wouldn't think that it was an inexpensive restaurant. I don't need the menu to be displayed. It's evident from not only the decor, but also the way in which the dining room team members are dressed, the lighting, the "look" of the other diners (to the extent visible initially) and the neighborhood in which the restaurant is located that Petrus is not an inexpensive restaurant. If all those cues were insufficient, and I cared about the pricing levels, I could consult a restaurant guide, do research on the web or call to inquire (including anonymously). It's like a person who does not adhere to dress code. I don't believe a restaurant need affirmatively mention a jacket and/or tie poilcy to clients making reservations. Clients should either know enough about the restaurant to deduce the code, err on the side of being dressed up or inquire.

Perhaps, and it was a nicer color -- burgundy -- as well. It seemed to have a more "antique" look. I've never noticed (or sought to notice) a salumi slicer at Babbo, and I have not yet visited Lupa. Is this type of slicer generic to salumi? I no longer have the Steingarten article on Batali's salumi to see if the slicing mechanism is explained.

I'd appreciate learning about how you selected your supplier(s) of chicken and eggs. Have you considered visiting the applicable chicken farm(s) to view the living conditions of the chicken you serve at Heartbeat? Are there special varieties of chicken that might be available from time to time at Heartbeat? When you have baby chicken on the menu, do you adjust the cooking technique for factors other than size? In your mind, what are the special qualities of baby chicken?

Wilfrid -- I don't know about the definition of expensive. While I did not keep costs down at a recent Union Pacific dinner, I could have ordered the $48 pre-theater three-course meal, drank tap water and ordered two inexpensive glasses of wine (say, at $24 total) and stayed within $70 for a person before tax and tips. Of course, that is relatively difficult to implement.

I'd appreciate learning your estimate of the proportion of diners at Heartbeat that are guests at the W, and how hotel guests' ordering patterns and reactions to your cuisine might differ from those of other diners. Also, do you perceive that the cuisine preferences of American hotel guests may differ from hotel guests visiting from other countries? Separately, younger clients may go to the W for drinks/hanging out. Does that affect the diners visiting Heartbeat?

tommy -- I appreciate you did not eat much of the scallops. However, how was the Concord grape reduction? Also, you mentioned that Marseilles is not expensive. Could I ask how much your meal was, with tax and tips and wine included?

Steven -- That has certain resemblances to the San Domenico machine, although it is hard to say.

Wilfrid -- Could you elaborate on the quality of the proscuitto? Why does the machine appear to have so many parts to it?

Wilfrid -- I sat in the restaurant. I noticed there was a silver-colored press as one of the decorative components. I asked about it, and it was an olive press (I thought it was a bit too small to be a Tour d'Argent duck press or a Le Divellic seafood press, leaving aside the non-French nature of the restaurant). I also noticed a huge burgundy-colored metallic machine for slicing proscuitto. This prompted me to ask whether the proscuitto and other salumi were made in-house, to which the answer was not. But I was tempted to try proscuitto from that machine, and would have, had I not been on a diet. It's nice that the restaurant has women as both executive chef and chef de cuisine.

In the 2002 Number 62 edition of Ed Behr's "Art of Eating", Mitchell Davis provides advice on twleve restaurants in Tokyo: Ramen -- Kyushu Jangara Ramen Soba -- Toshi-an, 5-I7-2 Shirokanedai, Minato-ku Udon -- Muguinbo, 2-25-7 Kami-uma Contemporary Japanese -- Kozue, Park Hyatt Tokyo; Daidaiya, Ginza Nine Building I Kaiseki Ryori (Classic Japanese haute cuisine) -- Tsukiji-Tamura, 12-II-2 Chome Tsukiji, Chuo-ku Sushi -- Miyako Zushi, 2-I-I6 Umamchi Dori, Taito-ku Steak -- Shima, Nihonbashi MM Building Tofu -- Ume No Hana, Bell Commons Building Tonkatsu -- Katsukura, Takashimaya Times Square Yakitori (grilled chicken parts, per author; however, this term is not necessarily so limited) -- Toritake, Star Building Okonomiyaki (fried items) -- Chibo, Garden Place Tower Do members have thoughts on the above list? (Note I have never visited any of the above)

I'd appreciate members' input on the cuisine at Gotham Steakhouse in downtown Vancouver, including the types and cuts of meat that have been sampled. In addition, members' input on other steakhouses in Vancouver (including "Kobe" (spelling?), the teppanyaki facility reasonably close to Gotham) would be appreciated.

According to The Times from sometime last week, Ramsay is the first to score a ten since Nico Ladenis (1999, with the then Chez Nico). "Jim Ainsworth, the editor of The Good Food Guide, said yesterday: 'To score ten a chef has to be better than all the others, with an extra edge of creativity and a wow factor that means he can stand comparison with the very best of international competition.' In the book the Gordon Ramsay restaurant's entry says: 'The only significant disappointments come from those who try to find fault but are unable to, beyond a little nitpicking about the bread or the size of the tables.' The entry acclaims: 'Cooking at the very highest level, exceeded only by a tiny handful of European restaurants.'" I would agree with the last sentence.

Steven -- I'd actually consider ordering a 1/2 portion, given how large the strip steak is described as being and my attempts at dieting. The $17.50 would be a really good deal, and I am not a dessert person to begin with (except for a few very special desserts and Meyer Lemon-based desserts).

Below is San Domenico's white truffle menu (through 12/20 reportedly, $4.00/gram in addition to below prices; ** marks items sampled): Beef tartar with EVOO, $17 ** Crunchy nest filled with cream of leaks and egg yolk, $16 Piedmontese cheese fondue with polenta, 15 ** Soft egg yolk filled raviolo with hazelnut butter, 21 Tagliolini with butter and parmigiano, 23.50 Pearl sized raviolini in veal jus, 24.50 Risotto "Mantecao" with parmigiano reggiano, 24.50 Roasted veal loin with glazed vegetables and veal reduction, 31.50 Grilled beef fillet with mushrooms, 33.50 Quail with a suace of truffled broccoli rape and a celery root flan, 30.50 I began the meal with a glass of Proseco, which, I now discover from reviewing the bill, was comp'd (together with a large bottle of Pellegrino I had ordered). Even with the comps, the total before tips was $144 (with no dessert having been ordered). Note that 13 grams of truffles ($52 in total) were shaved, and were moderate in actual quantity (probably about right; I asked for extra shavings on the first dish, but the suggested serving is 5-6 grams per the menu anyhow). The truffles were of good quality and aromatic. I prefer slightly thicker shavings thatn provided, but that is difficult to receive (the same truffle shaver that most restaurants appear to use was deployed; the next sampling this season I might be more proactive about shaving thickness, unless it's ADNY?). With the Crunchy Nest filled with cream of leeks and egg yolks, the sampling to me of the truffles was somewhat affected by (1) the texture of the pastry cone base for the runny egg and the cream of leeks (its thin layers, which would under normal circumstances be a positive attribute, was too similar to the potential effects of the truffle shavings and detracted a bit), (2) the cream of leek was below the (appropriate) moderate temperature of the runny yolk and could have been slightly warmer, (3) the cream of leek would slightly saltier than I would have preferred to highlight the truffles, (4) the truffle shavings that fell on the larger green salad surrounding the nest were difficult to sample when so integrated and not readily separable from the shavings, and (5) the pomegranate seeds in the salad were unnecessary (even though intended to add a sweet/sour hint, which was unduly complex in connection with a base for truffles). Nonetheless, an interesting dish. I had sought to order the raviolini, but that dish was sold out. The soft egg yolk filled ravioli with hazelnut butter was fairly good, although it should probably not have had a bit of parmesan on top of the single large ravioli. When melted on top of the pasta, the parmesan furnished an aroma that conflicted with that of the truffles slightly. The raviolo contained soft ricotta with bits of spinach included; its inside was very hot (temperature) initially. It could have been slightly less hot to better highlight the truffles. Still, a dish I enjoyed. I ordered a 1/2 bottle of Morellino di Scansono Fattoria le Pupille, Toscano 2001 ($38), which was appropriate for the truffles (thanks to members for the education on pairing red wine with white truffles). The sommelier assured me the youth of the bottle would not be a problem, and he was right (he provided good service).

Steve Klc -- I'd appreciate additional information on the Blue Hill demo, and the mlpc/Patrice demo. Does the BH demo begin Saturday at 10am, and, if so, what time relative to such opening time of the show would one have to arrive to be assured seating in the demo theater?

Steven -- Do you recall what other preparations involving white truffles Salute! offered?

Guy Savoy has reservations for at least 10:15, and sometimes for 10:30. Michelin has a section (at least in the 2001 edition) entitled "Pour Souper apres le spectacle" (for dinner after the show) which provides restaurants with hours of indicated latest arrival by the diner -- included are L'Etoile (is this a Guy Savoy affiliate???), and La Regelade (this would be a good choice, and the indicated hour of midnight is consistent with reports of three seatings for dinner). Also, if La Regelade is not centrally located enough, Chez Denise (good pied de cochon and Charolais beef) and La Maison d'Aubrac. The latter is a decent (not very good) tartare of beef from Aubrac and a good aligote, as previously mentioned in other threads. Also, a decent entrecote on said beef and good prices on La Turque from Guigal (relative to other places, that is). I'd have to say I prefer Charolais to Aubrac beef, even based on a sampling of the latter at Bras. La Masion d'Aubrac can be reasonably priced if one does not get tempted by the very good wine list there. Ovearll, Chez Denise or La Regelade would be my recommendation. There are many places in the "Old" Les Halles area, including Pied de Cochon (which is so-so -- pied de cochon at Chez Denise is much better) and its adjacent restaurants. I like being in Paris. Even a modest bowl of onion soup seems to taste better when taken in Paris.

Could members please provide a range of French reds to take in with white truffles, say, the following white truffle menu:

Despite the fact that the Parmesan/salad dish will not have white truffles, $280 is not necessarily a bad deal relative to the two-course (not counting dessert) regular pricing at ANDNY of $150 and the three-course menu of $165. The total truffle supplement is $115, leaving aside the apparently greater number of dishes included in the white truffle menu (even assuming the osetra caviar dish were an amuse). The indicative pricing on the ADNY website for the "regular" menus is as follows; price levels appear the same as when I was last there two or three months ago -- AMUSE BOUCHE, choice of two courses from the menu, dessert, friandises et gourmandis US$150 AMUSE BOUCHE, choice of three courses from the menu dessert, friandises et gourmandis US$165 Have any members sampled the white truffle menu at ADNY? I guess if the purpose behind a meal were the sampling of the white truffles, there would be less of a disappointment with Ducasse's underlying cuisine from my subjective perspective. However, it is still a bit disconcerting to pay such sums for a cuisine that one does not necessarily like. I'm going to have to consider this a bit more. Charles -- Did you see any appropriate wines on the ADNY wine list for a white truffle menu?

Charles -- If you recall, how much was the all-white-truffle tasting menu and how many courses were included? Did it generally seem appetizing?

Ducasse's "be" has been open since mid-October. "be : a few facts - Name : be [pronounced : bi] - Address : 73 boulevard de Courcelles - 75008 Paris - Phone : 01 46 22 20 20- Fax : 01 46 22 20 21 - Open Monday thru' Saturday, 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. - www.boulangepicier.com - e-mail : contact@boulangepicier.com - Concept : the very first bakery-grocery store, created by Alain Ducasse and Eric Kayser - Baker : Boris Vilatte ; Chef : Karl Poussard; Pastry chef : Christian Gonthier - Menu : breads, grocery essentials, sandwiches, open sandwiches and salads, pastries and donuts, fruit pies and other gourmet delights, " Ready-to-Cook " meals. - Price : approximately 8 € for an open sandwich, 6 to 8 € for a sandwich, 10 to 20 € for a " Ready-to-Cook " meal." Sandwiches include (1) olive bread with sardines in olive oil, basil and sun-dried tomatoes, and (2) seaweed bread baked with smoked tuna, salted pressed roe and a salad of winter cress, (3) an open sandwich on stoneground Vitello Tonnato bread , and (4) whole wheat bread with aged Comte. A related press release suggests be will carry garum by Gennaro Esposito!

Berasategui informed me that Ibiltze is the closest hotel to it (34943365644). The hotel is less than 2 km away, and would be about a 10 minute walk. Room prices begin at approx. 30 euros a night. Another hotel in the little suburb of San Sebastian where Berasategui is located is Txartel.