cabrales

tissue -- Where did you have fugu?

I'd appreciate members' input on reputable restaurants serving fugu in each of Tokyo and Kyoto. Please discuss, if available, the extent to which fugu is the specialty of the restaurant in question. In the November 2002 edition of Food & Beverage International, GraceAnn Walden's Chefs' Chat column relates to "What's the Strangest Thing You Have Ever Eaten?" Alan Wong of Honolulu notes: "Fugu, a blackfish, native to Japan, that if not prepared and cleaned properly can cause death by respiratory paralysis. People enjoy the slight tingling sensations that eating it produces. 'I had it in Tokyo, at a restaurant where it is the only item on the menu' . . . . 'For the first one [dish], the server started off the meal by putting a match to the dry tail of the fish. After the flames were extinguished, the tail was set in a glass and then it was filled with sake. It was refilled many times that night.' 'Interestingly, every part of the fish was prepared using different cooking methods. One of the shabu shabu style dishes contained a fish part called "Shirako" which looks like a pale yellow cooked egg yolk. It is the fish's sperm-producing organ. It reminded me of foie gras.' 'The second shabu shabu dish featured a rectangular piece from the mouth of the fish which included the gums, lips and teeth. I had a hard time wtih this part and as you can imagine, a lot of sake was consumed with that fish.'"

It appears that Great Chefs Magazine has a sibling. CuisineMedia published its premiere issue of Cuisine Tours. Apparently, in this 9 times a year publication, each publication will feature a summary of some background information about the restaurants of a given city/region, coupled with certain recipes. I wonder whether the same base of recipes is being drawn upon as the TV versions.

awbrig -- Thanks I vaguely recall a restaurant like Heat being featured in a FN program earlier this year.

awbrig -- How's your baby doing? Could you describe the restaurant a bit?

Volume 21-09 of Food & Beverage International contains an article entitled "Scaly Offerings of the Night and Other Famous Specialties of Huong Rung Restaurant", by Garrett Culhane. In an explicit series of photographs, the taking in a cobra's heart is depicted. "The waiter quickly returns with one hand holding the tail of a 6-foot Indian cobra. It's [sic] head writhing about the floor only a few feet from our table. . . . With enviable calm, our snake handler grabs for the head, misses, tries again, then quickly pulls back, dodging the striking cobra. Again, he reaches out. Now the serpent is held firmly from both ends. Two more men arrive. One grabs the middle of teh thrashing serpent, while another cuts into the underbelly and pulls out the palpitating heart. A glass if placed below to catch the crimson flow. Then, with the snip of a scissors, the thumb-sized pump is severed and passed to a small dish and set upon our table. The reptile's blood is mixed with rice wine and set near the *still-beating heart*. Richard, in deliberation, reaches for the small dish and down his gullet goes the heart, followed by a shot of vinous warm blood . . . . 'You can feel it beating all the way to the bottom of your belly,' says Richard." The restaurant: Huong Rung 2 Restaurant, 146 Hai Ba Trung, P. Da Kao -- Quan 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietname. Other indicative menu items: barbequed turtle dove, grilled field mouse (these are roughly $0.80 each), roasted toad, Indian cobra prepared eight ways (not necessarily all ordered; $26/kg -- shredded salad, minced with rice paper, braised with lemongrass, viscera sauteed with onions, stewed, mined rolled with the leaf of something, with mung bean rice gruel, braised with ginger), three flavored bat ($5), five flavored lizard ($2.50).

Volume 21-09 of Food & Beverages International contains GraceAnn Walden's Chefs' Chat column on "What is the Strangest Thing You have Ever Eaten?". Gloria Ciccarone-Nehls of Huntington Hotel's Big 4 restaurant (SF) noted: "The first strange taste that comes to mind would be live eels (elvers) in Costa Rica, barely cooked so that when you swallow, you can still feel them slithering down your throat."

The October 2002 edition of Elle a Table mentions the following two new creations from the Autumn-Winter 2002 collection of Herme (note translations are extremely rough, and I was unsure of one or two terms) -- Emotion Acidulee (Emotions of Acidity) -- Rice with milk with mascarpone (or mascarpone milk?), pan-fried apples flavored with "pain d'epices", underneath a gelee of green lemon or lime, with mint -- Plenitude -- In a macaron, bitter chocolat and fleur de sel

robert -- With all respect, an interesting invocation of the term "veteran". What do you mean by it, exactly, and why might you be seeking to add weight to your conclusion through it? Also, how many meals would you consdier sufficient to confer a reasonably good read of a restaurant (even an unfavorable read)?

steverino -- Thanks for the report. I recently bought "Paul Bocuse In Your Kitchen. An Introduction to Classic French Cooking" (1982). It contains a recipe for pot-au-feu: 2 or 3 marrow bones Small beef shank -- 6 lbs or equal weight of oxtail and beef short ribs Veal foresbank (foreshank?) -- 2.75 lbs 6 quarts water 4 teaspoons coarse salt Bouquet garni 1 onion, peeled and stuck with a clove 5 peppercorns 4 medium carrots, peeled 4 medium turnips, peeled heart of 1 head of celery, split lengthwise 4 leeks, cleaned and tied in a bunch Toast (for marrow) Vinegar pickles Dijon mustard Coarse sea salt Wrap the marrow bones in a piece of cheesecloth and tie the ends together to seal them inside. Reserve. Place the beef and veal in a large pot, add the cold water (the meat should be covered) and the coarse salt, and bring to a boil. Skim off any foam that surfaces using a skimmer or slotted spoon. When the water boils, add the bouquet garni, the onion stuck with a clove, and the pepercorns. Lower the heat and simmer uncovered for 3 hours, then add the vegetables and simmer 45 minutes more. To serve, lift the beef and veal out of the pot and place on a hot serving platter with the vegetables and marrow bones around them. Serve with toast, vinegar pickles, plain or flavored Dijon mustard, and a bowl of coarse sea alt all on the side. There is also a recipe for pot-au-feu au gratin.

Marc -- What a promising idea! If it's the last few days in November, I might be able to participate.

hollywood -- My general impression has been that the surprise menus within a given very few number of days tend to remain constant. Then, they get changed, although some things tend to remain (e.g., the avocado/crab ravioli).

lizziee -- Below are my subjective reactions: For me, the shotglass' contents add depth and complexity of flavor to what is otherwise a very "clean" dish of avocado slices and crabmeat (gently enhanced by almond oil and some zest). Note the yoghurt is a common feature of the shotglass, although I have had it once without it. The yoghurt is not an aggressive US supermarket version, as you know. It adds a bit of acidity coupled with complexity. The fish mousse is usually brandade (cod). Its inclusion augments the sea-like aspects of the dish, which are stronger in the shotglass than the nicely-prepared, but more gentle, crabmeat sandwiched between the avocado. Note the instructions I have received on the shotglass relate to digging the little spoon through all the layers to access all layers, and not necessarily to mix. That might make a difference. While I have not had this particular combination in a layered presentation, that type of presentation is not uncommon at the restaurant. The bottom is, for me, less a "cracker" than a delicate bit of slightly sweetened pastry-like item. It is not really a pastry, but it has lingering notes of sweetness. I have also not had this type of dish with majoram, but normally it is very nice (e.g., with thinly sliced beetroot or cucumber portions). Again, I have not had this particular dish. But one version is langoustines with a sorbet of langoustines and saffron. The langoustines I have had at Astrance have been appropriately cooked and appropriately textured. The grilled bread soup hints wonderfully at a slight burnt note and coffee overtones (there is no coffee in it). One feels the capuccino effects first, and then the warm darkness of the soup. For me, it did not have unduly yeasty connotations.

Bunny -- Here's the first cut at possibilities. I asked the AmEx Concierge to look into starred restaurants in the Lyons area (Auberge de L'ill, non-Haeberlin facility obviously, is being followed up on). Note I will provide more information when time permits. Description is from AmEx and not from me; my comments are noted by Cabrales annotation: Restaurant Name: Paul Bocuse Michelin Rating: Three stars Address: 50 quai de la Plage, Collonges-au-Mont-d'Or, Lyon, France Phone: 33-4-72-42-90-90 Description: Paul Bocuse is a "culinary shrine" just north of Lyon in Collonges-au-Mont-d'Or. The atmosphere is grand, and the diners are dressed to the nines (jacket required). Bocuse's truffle soup and sea bass is legendary, although Bocuse himself is often away. Reservations are essential. **Open for Lunch on Thursday, November 28, 2002: Yes** Tasting menu for lunch? Price?: No **Open for Dinner on Thursday, November 28, 2002: Yes** Cabrales: Not good food when I visited, but I will visit again. This is a giant of French haute cuisine, and even if Bocuse's food is not to my liking, merits a try. Restaurant Name: Leon de Lyon Michelin Rating: Two stars Address: 1 rue Pléney, Lyon, France Phone: 33-4-72-10-11-12 Description: Leon de Lyon is one of the most prominent restaurants in the area, due mainly to chef Jean-Paul Lacombe's innovative uses of the region's butter, cream, and foie gras. Some of his signature dishes include fillet of veal with celery, and a suckling pig that comes with foie gras, onions, and a truffle salad. The building has a 19th-century feel, complete with wood paneling and small alcoves. Reservations are essential, and a jacket is required. **Open for Lunch on Thursday, November 28, 2002: Yes** Tasting menu for lunch? Price?: Yes - 3 menus priced at $54, $197, $136 (bunny -- Look at these prices for Leon de Lyon, esp. the $54 -- do not rely on this unless you verify it yourself, but not at the time you reserve) **Open for Dinner on Thursday, November 28, 2002: Yes** Cabrales: Never been, but on my list for some time. Restaurant Name: Pierre Orsi Michelin Rating: One star Address: 3 pl. Kléber, Lyon, France Phone: 33-4-78-89-57-68 Description: Pierre Orsi is located in a tiny tree-lined square, furnished in luxury. Marble floors, brocade draperies, bronze nudes, and gilt-frame paintings make it "glamorously festive." Dress is formal, and reservations are a must. Here, diners find that the deserts are equally fabulous. Open for Lunch on Thursday, November 28, 2002: Yes Tasting menu for lunch? Price?: Yes - $105 Open for Dinner on Thursday, November 28, 2002: Yes Cabrales: Never been, also on my list. My liking of Troisgros' cuisine leads me to go there over many other Lyon-and-environs options. Restaurant Name: Les Terrasses de Lyon Michelin Rating: One star Address: 25 Montee St-Barthelemy, Lyon, France Phone: 33-4-72-56-56-56 Description: No description available. Open for Lunch on Thursday, November 28, 2002: Yes Tasting menu for lunch? Price?: No Open for Dinner on Thursday, November 28, 2002: Yes Restaurant Name: Rotonde Michelin Rating: Two stars Address: at the Casino Le Lyon Vert, 200, avenue du Casino, 69890 La Tour de Salvagny, France Phone: 33-4-78-87-02-70 Description: Rotonde features traditional cooking from the provence region. Open for Lunch on Thursday, November 28, 2002: Yes Tasting menu for lunch? Price?: Yes - 3 menus priced at $73, $90, $107 Open for Dinner on Thursday, November 28, 2002: Yes Restaurant Name: Christian Tetedoie Michelin Rating: One star Address: 53-54, quai Pierre-Scize 69005 Lyon, France Phone: 33-4-78-29-40-10 Description: Tetedoie is a disciple of Bocuse, though he adds his personal touches to the learned skills of his master. Open for Lunch on Thursday, November 28, 2002: Yes Tasting menu for lunch? Price?: Yes - 3 menus priced at $26, $43, $68 (bunny -- Again, look at these prices for a one-star; you should consider transportation costs as well) Open for Dinner on Thursday, November 28, 2002: Yes Restaurant Name: L'Auberge de Fond Rose Michelin Rating: One star Address: 23, quai Clémenceau. Caluire Phone: 33-4-78-29-34-61 Description: L'Auberge de Fond Rose is widely known as one of the best restaurants in the area. They are regarded as having classic service and talented chefs. Open for Lunch on Thursday, November 28, 2002: Yes Tasting menu for lunch? Price?: Yes - Called a "business menu" priced at $37 Open for Dinner on Thursday, November 28, 2002: Yes Restaurant Name: Larivoire Michelin Rating: One star Address: 26, Chemin des Iles, 69140 Rillieux-la-Pape, France Phone: 33-4-78-88-50-92 Description: The restaurant Larivoire is located about 10 minutes from the center of Lyon in a quaint country house. Proprietor Chantal Constantin welcomes diners with a warm smile and kind demeanor. Open for Lunch on Thursday, November 28, 2002: Yes Tasting menu for lunch? Price?: No Open for Dinner on Thursday, November 28, 2002: Yes Restaurant Name: Auberge de L'Ile Michelin Rating: Two stars Address: Place Notre Dame, L'Ile Barbe, 69009, Lyon, France Phone: 33-4-78-83-99-49 Description: Auberge de L'Ile is located in a former home of French royalty. The atmosphere has kept its old-fashioned charm, though the cooking is quite contemporary. Open for Lunch on Thursday, November 28, 2002: Information unavailable until tomorrow Tasting menu for lunch? Price?: Information unavailable until tomorrow Open for Dinner on Thursday, November 28, 2002: Information until tomorrow Restaurant Name: Gourmet de Seze Michelin Rating: One star Address: 129, rue de Sèze, 69006 Lyon, France Phone: 33-4-78-24-23-42 Description: No description available. Open for Lunch on Thursday, November 28, 2002: Yes Tasting menu for lunch? Price?: No Restaurant Name: L'Alexandrin Michelin Rating: One star Address: 83 Rue Moncey, Lyon, France Phone: 33-4-72-61-15-69 Description: No description available. Open for Lunch on Thursday, November 28, 2002: Yes Tasting menu for lunch? Price?: $49 Open for Dinner on Thursday, November 28, 2002: Yes bunny -- There is also Les Loges, where Le Bec works. He was the cuisinier of the year for Gault-Millau. However, I have not eaten at his facility. Other possibilities I mentioned: Le Splendide, bistro of Georges Blanc; La Mere Brazier (see thread by that name). If I were in your shoes, I would go to Paul Bocuse and either Les Loges or Leon de Lyons. Leon de Lyons has more traditional cooking; Les Loges apparently less. However, my personal sentimental favorite would be La Mere Brazier (recently lost single star). If you decide on Paul Bocuse, I can see if the menu I have contains prices.

I also find Astrance's cuisine outstanding (under higher standards utilized for restaurants in France).

James Villas furnishes a wonderful description of his visit to Dumaine's La Cote d'Or in his youth, in Best Food Writing 2002. At the time described, Villas is on a budget and knows little about French gastronomy. He orders the Le Coq au Vin a l'Ancienne, and a half-bottle of Beaujolais. "[T]he waiter then rolled over a handsome wodden cart on top of which rested a large, shiny copper pot, two covered copper containers, and a plate of what appeared to be heart-shaped pieces of bread. . . . served a first portion topped with the beautiful fried croutons rubbed with garlic, and spooned a few buttered green peas and parsleyed boiled potatoes from the otehr containers into seaprate china bowls. The stew, which also contained tiny onions and mushrooms, was almost black, and . . . . I knew the second I took my first bite of this robustly rich, smooth, incredibly sapid chicken that I'd really never eaten coq au vin. What I was also certain of was that while I ate, the same pudgy man in the white uniform [this is Dumaine] would crack open the kitchen door and glance in my direction. For maybe forty-five minutes, I slowly relished my meal . . ." Dumaine later explains the dark color of the stew: "'Blood', he almost boomed. 'Chicken blood -- plus pureed livers. It's the only way.'" Interestingly, this was also Villas' first sampling of Bresse chicken (poularde).

sarah w -- Below is a link to the thread: http://forums.egullet.org/ibf/index.php?s=...7974&hl=auberge

Nearest train stations on the French side are Selestat and Colmar. I utilized Selestat, which was accessed through Strasbourg. See my prior thread on Auberge de l'Ill for additional information. Note that there is no TGV between, for example, Paris and Strasbourg.

magnolia and I had a good-plus dinner at Tasting Room tonight, with Chef Alevras being even more receptive to questions. We sampled the following: (1) Homemade Parpadelle with Chicken Liver, Romaine, Balsamic, Walnuts, Marjoram ($10 for Taste). My appetizer was appealing, with broad, tagliatelle-cousin-type noodles swirled around a good number of pieces of liver. The saucing was a jus reduction, with the walnuts surprisingly subtle and appearing in certain parts of the dish. The wine I brought was Lucas-Carton, Demoiselle by Vranken, a wine selected by Senderens of Lucas-Carton. While I knew that L-C was now being financed at least in party by Vranken, I believed in Senderens' philsoophy, for some time now, of pairing wine with dishes that I coudln't beliefe this champagne would be poor (even though it had cost less than $30 and had been available at Sherry-Lehman). This champagne was much better than the Cuvee Daniel, for example -- nicely balanced, and a slight big refreshing. magnolia ordered the Baked Rhode Island Day Boat Scallops, Squash blossoms, yukon gold potatoes, golden carrots ($13 for Taste). The vegetables were in small sizes, and the hint of acidity in their saucing was nice. There were three medium-largish scallops presented even in the Taste portion. However, like the scallops I had sampled upon my last visit to TR, the scallops tonight were a bit too limp, soft and lacking in elasticity and a slight "crispness" when taken in. This did not, of course, result in a poor dish. However, I was enjoying my liver-related pasta. (2) Pasture-Raised Organic Chicken, Parsnip Puree, Swiss Chard, Nutmeg, Sabayon ($14 for Taste); Loin of New York State Venison, honey roasted spaghetti squash, mirin and green tea broth ($15 for Taste). The chicken was nice -- Belle Rouge, I guessed correctly. The flavor was very similar to what I had sampled at Blue HIll last Sunday -- almost an almond or otherwise slightly sweet aftertaste. The sabayon was also slightly sweet, and this was a nice combination of the flavor of the chicken with the hint of sweetness in the saucing. The lamb loin was nice too, although perhaps not the rare level I had communicated to the dining room team. There was significant sugariness in the saucing, although this was fine from my perpsective. Despite very limited flaws, I dish I would order again, readily. By this time, magnolia and I had switched to the wine ordered -- perhaps magnolia could better expound on this than me. magnolia ordered the Roasted Sullivan Country Squab, black radish, chiogga and golden beets, quince, sauce salmis ($26 for Share portion) This was highlgihted by the bitterness of the radish, which was relatively attractive against the other ingredients. (3) Selection of American Farmhouse Cheese, quince, figs, grapes ($15 for Taste). This was nice; a Taste portion, instead of a Share, would appear to be sufficient for even two people to share. The varieties we had were (a) Bingham Blue (cow/Colorado), (b) Bingham Powder Puff (goat/Colorado) -- what a great name, © Shepards sheep (Vermont), (d) Mt St Francis (sheep/Vermont), and (e) Mt Diablo (goat/CA). The Muscat grapes were delicious, as was the little bit of not-yet-riped fig. We finished with coffee. Overall, a good-plus meal. Equally importantly, I had a chance to really talk to and listen to magnolia, even though we had initially met at the 1st UK eGullet dinner.

Bunny -- I'll provide a comprehensive report; your flexibility as to price leaves me with a lot of options. It will take a couple of days, I imagine. But I will do the research for myself as well as for you (I like Troisgros, and tend to spend too much time there when around Lyons).

In the mashed potato discussion, you mentioned the significance of good quality butter. What kinds of butter do you use in the kitchen, and what kind of butter is served to diners?

Apart from chefs associated with molecular gastronomy, who is your preferred cuisinier in France and why? Have you had discussions with this chef about his cuisine, and what aspects of your last meal at the applicable restaurant were most memorable to you?

bunny -- On Nov 28, do you have both lunch and dinner available for dining, when I consider possibilites? Are you interested in Lyon's bouchons (let me know if you need that described; although I have never eaten in a bouchon, I have read about them)? What is your budget for each meal, including taxi to the restaurant? Also, do you like Bresse chicken dishes? Do you prefer a more traditional cuisine or one intended to be more creative? I dine solo very frequently. If you are going to be in France only for a limited time, you might want to capitalize on all dining opportunities. I don't think solo dining is an issue, but even if it were, the food would have to be the most important consideration.

Bunny -- The train is the best way from Lyons to Roanne. As you know, train timetables need to be confirmed. However, current searches on the SNCF (that's the French railway system) website indicate the following. I selected times that will get you into Roanne early, as it November 28 is your first day at work. Lyon Perrache 6:27 am --> Roanne 7:49 am (This is Train Number 75704)** Lyon Part Dieu 6:39 am --> Roanne 7:49 am (This is the same train; be careful as Lyon has two principal train stations, and there might even be a third -- Vaise)** Lyon Perrache 7:07 am --> Roanne 8:36 am (Train 86606) ** = Appear appropriate You might consider staying in hotels very close to the train stations. That way, you can buy the ticket the day before (checking the times above) and get to the train station relatively quickly in the morning. Ibis is a large chain in France, and it has relatively inexpensive rooms (under USD 75/night). Many alternative facilities are even less expensive. What price range are you looking at? Please provide some information, and I will locate some possibilities from Michelin and the Ibis website. If you are interested in saving money, specify obviously that you are not traveling first class on the train. The Troisgros facilities are literally 2 minutes away from the Roanne railway station. As you are exiting the station, you need to gently keep left (towards a bend in the road 1 minute away where there is a tall graphite grey/blackish sculpture of forks and spoons). When you get to the sculpture, you will see a set of adjoining buildings right opposite the sculpture and the Troisgros facility. Consider whether you want to enter through the front door (I have no viewpoints either way). Please let me know if you need restaurant recommendations. If you have never eaten at Georges Blanc's three-star restaurant in Vonnas, for example, there is a non-close substitute at his inexpensive bistro called le Splendide (or something like that) in Lyons. There is a Bresse chicken dish, with a simple cream sauce, that is not bad. La Mere Brazizer has a "chicken in half mourning" dish that is the subject of an old thread and that is also reasonably priced (less than 50 euros for dinner, say). Many of the starred facilities may have special deals on lunches. Please post to let me know whether you would like me to assist you by calling up the facilties to get lunch pricing information. I hope you are going to sample at least one meal at Troisgros gastronomic. If that is difficult for some reason, or even if you have a meal at the gastronomic restaurant, try Le Centrale, the bistro. Pick dishes that have interesting plays on acidity, the subject of Michel Troisgros' upcoming book later this year.

Patrice -- Yes, when I ate at Auberge de l'Eridan in September 2001, there were no syringes or testtubes. Not that I particularly liked Veyrat's food then, but it was better than post-syringe. By February 2002, when I ate at Ferme, the syringe and other superflous items seemed fairly entrenched.