cabrales

Chefs Dan Barber and Michael Anthony of Blue Hill cook at the J Beard House on April 3. The menu is not yet available. I noticed recently that David Thompson (Nahm, London) is cooking at the J Beard House on February 1. Members $95/Guests $120.

I had a limited number of dishes at Lupa last night -- average-plus-to-good. When my dining companion and I arrived at the restaurant at around 9:00 pm without a reservation, the bar area was very busy. Being hungry, we proceeded to see what restaurants were close by, and settled on Jane on Houston St. (a venue of which neither of us had heard). The restaurant is average-to-average-minus. I was feeling better than in the recent past, and began with a Bellini. (I rarely have this, but the white peach was described as having been freshly pureed and I doubted my usual "straight" champagne aperatif would have been attractive here in view of the quality of the champagne). My dining companion and I shared a baby squid appetizer -- this was not poor, with appropriate crunchy textures to the baby squid and an ability to feel the little tentacles/legs (?) in one's mouth. The saucing was a bit spicy for my tastes. I ordered a hangar steak, rare. The steak was smothered in a gravy-like sauce that had occasional sweet overtones, and was overcooked relative to my specified level of rare. Accompanying the steak were three largish fried dumplings with a mixture of melted cheese and some type of apple puree (?) inside. I had a Rhone red by the glass. We left promptly, hoping to secure a seat at the Lupa bar. In hindsight, we should have taken an appetizer and drinks at Jane, and left. We were seated at the bar almost immediately upon reaching Lupa. The two men attending to the bar area were friendly and professional. My dining companion and I shared the following: (1) Frutti di Mare Piccolo ($15) -- The smaller of the two seafood platters contained Preserved Tuna, Citrus Cured Sardines, Smoked Baccalau (spelling), Octopus in Ink and one other item I cannot recall. The portion was large, and there was a decent-sized mound of each of the five items. Overall, I would rate the platter as average. The smoked baccalau was not particularly smoky in flavor, but neither was it inappropriately salty (Wilfrid -- ). It was nicely mixed with raw slivers of onions and capers, and had lemon juice in it as well. In this preparation, the baccalau was relatively mild in flavor. The citrus cured sardines were average, with the preserved tuna being the item I preferred among the platter's contents. The preserved tuna was presented in a relativley large chunk, and its texture was unusual for tuna. Also, nice utilization of pepper (at least along the areas I sampled) with respect to the tuna. (2) Ravioli of Pork with Truffle Oil (Daily special, not on menu) -- This was nice. The pasta was appropriate, and the pork within was shredded and almost had a confit aspect to it. The saucing was a simple olive oil mixed with truffle oil. A very interesting aspect to this dish were shavings of a black-ish truffle (not "cross-section" shavings, but a noticeable amounts) on top of the ravioli. I asked where this truffle came from, as its "interior" did not resemble that of the range of French black truffles I have sampled. I was advised that these are *Italian black truffles*, from Umbria. I don't sample Italian cuisine very much, although I like Italian white truffles. I did not previously know that Italy has black truffles.

If cuisine were the only consideration, I would *definitely* rather be living in London than in NY. Not only are the in-city restaurants better, in my subjective assessment, but one is so close to the rest of Europe.

It's easier than El Bulli (I have experience booking Can Fabes, although I have cancelled). However, consider booking Can Fabes immediately after securing El Bulli.

Even well-intentioned, interested diners might have to cancel reservations at the last minute. I'd have to admit that I've done that on occasion when I have held a "backup reservation" in hopes of receiving a last-minute reservation from another restaurant. In addition, a diner's plans change. I've cancelled two Bocuse lunch reservations at the last minute in the last twelve months. The first time, I missed the TGV from Paris because I couldn't wake up (despite several hotel wake-up calls) and I had another restuarant lined up for dinner the same day and had to get to that other restaurant. The second time, I had such a good time the meal before the intended Bocuse meal that I stayed at that other restaurant. It's ironically the same "other restaurant".

Below are several additional preliminary thoughts in support of the relevance of the provenance of food products: (1) Relationship to Terroir; provenance as factor defining the product in certain instances. Just as the geography in which grapes are nurtured affects what wine results, a particular vegetable or animal is capable of being nurtured by the soil/water, weather and other climate aspects and traditions of a geographic region. Thus, white asparagus from Bourgeuil (spelling; one of the items Jean Bardet was sued over a few years ago) could, by reason of having been grown in that region, acquire characteristics that distinguish it from other white asparagus. Those distinguishing characteristics (to the extent they exist), for diners who are sufficiently concerned about them, could render white asparagus from Bourgeuil a completely different product in those diners' eyes than white asparagus even from other parts of France. Some geographic regions have intrinsic characteristics that are better suited for certain breeds of an animal or certain crops. Note I am not asserting that all products with a provenance have distinguishing characteristics from their siblings. Merely that some do. When a living item (including vegetables) draws its nourishment and otherwise interacts with its surroundings, it can be profoundly affected by them. Brittany lobster is an entirely different product for me from Scottish, Maine or Canadian lobsters. These are all types of lobsters, but from a gastronomic perspective, there are palpable differences. So in this case, the indication that the lobsters are from Brittany is not just a signal -- it defines a discrete product. Of course, within Brittany/Normandy, there are still different regions (e.g., islands of Chausey) for Brittany lobsters that some view as preferable. Similarly, fleur de sel from Ile de Re (spelling), say, has qualities that are different from fleur de sel from the Camargue in Southern France. To summarize, in certain cases, provenance is not a question of marketing or perception or even of freshness relative to the point of capture/harvesting. It can be a shorthand for fundamental differences in products' characteristics that may have great relevance for gastronomic purposes. (2) Environmental/Societal/Food Safety/Other Personal Concerns Certain diners may believe in environmental/societal principles that cause them to avoid food products obtained in a certain manner. For example, there are some fishing practices that tend to be more destructive of other oceanlife and the ocean environment than others, and labelling fish as having been caught in a certain way may assure an interested diner that undesired practices have been avoided. A diner who is very concerned about the marine environment may derive greater utility from fish caught in a certain way, because of her personal values system. Similarly, a health-focused diner might be concerned about the amount of chemicals that her food has been subjected to, and may wish to be assured (e.g., by purchasing organic produce) that her food has not been unduly sprayed with pesticides, has not been the subject of genetic modification and is as "natural" as possible. (3) Signal Not of Product Quality, but of Restaurant Quality Other members have addressed the signalling effects of provenance on the nature of the food products labelled with such provenance. Yet unexplored are the signalling effects a restaurant can furnish by serving food products with good perceived provenance. The restaurant might be signalling that its cuisine is sufficiently refined, and the standards of its chef sufficiently rigorous, to warrant the utilization of products with provenance. If a restaurant is mediocre, it might not be able to utilize the products in a way that highlights their special qualities. Thus, by using products with provenance that are more expensive and that, all other things being equal (e.g., price charged to clients), would reduce profits, a cuisinier could be viewed as signalling one or more of the following: (a) he cares a great deal about his cuisine and will utilize the best products in connection therewith, (b) his culinary technique is sufficiently developed to permit him to handle products bearing provenance, and© his clients are discerning and can largely tell the difference. Consider this example. If (a) a restaurant's clients were not aware of (at least the perceived) differences between, say black truffles from Perigord and black truffles from Southern France and (b) Perigord truffles are more expensive, other things being equal, the restaurant would probably not purchase Perigord truffles and so state on its menu. Therefore, a restaurant that does advertise Perigord truffles on its menu might be signalling that its client niche is sophisticated enough to potentially appreciate the difference. (Note I have yet to figure out the taste differences among French black truffles.)

Hmm -- Further support for learning how to cook.

Animals like lions, rhinos, elephants, giraffes, tigers, leopards, say?

Only for certain diners who aren't capable of arresting any such predisposition in themselves.

I have not yet visited any part of Africa, but one tour my family had at one point contemplated involved staying at Table Bay Hotel and Sun City. Are those resorts ones with interesting restaurants, to members' knowledge? http://www.luxres.com/HotelProfile.asp?Hid...rnalID=CNGL2002 Pardon my ignorance, but are there any game reserves that serve meals with big game?

scout -- Thanks. I would definitely be taking advantage of the offer if I were, contrary to the facts, in town. Ouest restaurant/bar and Lumiere bar seem to be the better bets, particularly if Ouest restaurant section dishes are being offered as opposed to Ouest bar-type dishes. For Lumiere's bar, the dishes are around CAD$12 each, so a three-course meal for CAD$25, while a good deal, does not represent compelling savings. The key will be to determine what types of dishes Ouest is offering. (The regular Ouest website is down currently). The menu for the event from Sun Sui Wah is not appealing. Ironically, even though I dislike "C" alot and have never been to Raincity Grill, the latter's CAD$25 three-course dinner had a decent (indicative?) menu: Moon Farms Goose Foie Gras Pate with seared scallop, preserved melons Prince George Lamb Tasting with grilled loin, lamb torte, rosemary infused lamb consomme Chesnut & Cranberry Tart with lavender cream Bacchus' CAD$25 three-course dinner looked decent (I have not visited this restaurant), although I am probably giving it too much credit due to the inclusion of coq au vin. The apps for Bacchus appeared weak, however. Gotham's menu is not listed, but that restaurant might be a potential candidate as well.

Speaking of Loiseau, have any members taken in the services available in Loiseau's spa area?

With all due respect to restaurants, and with a very few exceptions (e.g., Blue Hill in NY, Fook Lam Moon in HK), I'd have to say that, for me, restaurants outside of Europe are indeed not as good. Not that restaurants outside of Europe do not offer food that should be taken seriously, though. (I don't see my subjective viewpoint as being elitist, and I don't believe others necessarily share that viewpoint.) (If Vanessa's reference was to produce from beyond the boundaries of Europe, I would say that food products are slowly getting bettter in those regions.)

I usually confirm earlier than the day before (e.g., 2 days before), unless the restaurant otherwise specifies. I usually make reservations and confirmation calls on my own.

The menus for my meals at Greuze: (Amuses of gougeres) 1/2 Pate en Croute "Alexandre Dumaine" 1/2 Quenelle de Brochet "Henri Racouchot" (Pike quenelles) (Sorbet of Marc, as described by lizziee) Purported coq au vin House aperatif of rasberry-flavored champagne/white wine 1/2 bottle Gevrey Chambertin, Les Combettes, Dujac 1998 Chartreuse vert (Amuses of gougeres) 1/3 Turbotin grille beurre a l'estragon (Grilled turbot with tarragon butter) 1/3 Galette de truffes "Dodin Bouffant" (Truffle pastry-like cake) (Sorbet of Marc, as described by lizziee) Filet de canard de Challans au poivre vert et ses cuisses grillees avec salade a l'huile de noix (Challans duck in two services, with green peppercorns and with the thighs served with a walnut oil salad) House aperatif Batard Montrachet, Sauzet 1997 Richebourg, Marc Rougeot-Dupin 1995 Apart from the Poulet de Bresse Saute "Jean Ducloux", the Greuze menu has another type of Bresse poultry -- the latter requires 24 hours' advance notice (and likely two diners at least). It is a version of chicken in half-mourning.

Assuming for the purposes of argument that there were no "upper middle" level in Paris, could that be because there is no need for one? The food at the "upper" level in Paris could be so pleasing that discriminating diners who frequent *certain* of the "upper middle" restaurants in NY would clearly choose the "upper level" in Paris. Certain diners might believe that the purported "upper level" in New York is not uniformly good (even by lower NY standards) and might therefore have a subjective preference, within NY restaurants, for certain restaurants in both the "upper middle" and "upper" categories. This is a source of demand in NY with respect to "upper middle" that has therefore no counterpart in Paris. (I appreciate we might be speaking of a small-ish dining segment here.)

So steamboat means Chinese hotpot.

Adam -- Leaving aside the question of whether UK people's general level of interest in food has been or is low or high in absolute terms, would you view that level as having increased in the past decade or so (at least in larger cities)?

Cherries. Peeled, bulbous green grapes.

Does Serrano (Picasso at Bellagio, LV) have no ties any more to Masa?

I wonder if the Chinese-utilized frogs are of a different breed than French frogs (not that all restaurants in France serve French frogs).

Lesley -- I think we were at the Terr store So, the old store moved to a new location right across the street, and the Terr store is now where the old store was? Is the Ter store decorated with neon colors?

Nina -- Where did you have this dish, if you recall?

I don't mean to be simplistic, but maybe you might see those beans again if you visited the jungles again. Of course, you might have to be aided by a focus on devout thoughts of the differences between glazed pots and terracotta ones.

Just as the French appreciate grenouilles, the Chinese have dishes featuring a type of frog in their repertoire. Have members sampled frogs at Chinese restaurants, or attempted to purchase frogs purchased in Chinatown?