cabrales

Sam_Salmon: Would you consider the prices at Tojo to be at the level requested, however?

fresh_a: How many times might you be calling a restaurant on a given day? Also, how many specific restaurant reservations requests do you on average receive a day? Would you recommend a strategy of calling repeatedly for individual diners? Are there particular strategies for smaller-capacity restaurants like L'Astrance and Hiramatsu?

fresh_a: Hi, it's me again Given your mention of the significance of listening to your guests, what respective verbal and non-verbal cues from a guest would cause you to direct that guest to each of the Paris three-stars (when the guest seeks your recommendation)? Is age a significant determinant of your recommendations? How do you gauge dining experience on the part of a guest, and is such experience a determinant? How about nationality (e.g., Asian guests vs. American guests)? Is restaurant price level a factor you consider? What rough percentage of your day do you spend obtaining feedback from, and making reservations at, restaurants?

I had a good-to-very-good-meal at Union Pacific recently. The meal price was a good bargain, in my mind, as I had taken advantage of the prix fixe pre-theater option. That option ($45; seating and/or ordering ? before 5:45 on Saturday nights) offers the identical menu to the $68 regular prix-fixe at UP. I chose the pre-theater option, even though I did not have anything lined up after dinner, because I have been dieting and had not taken in any food (except perhaps a dozen individual green grapes) since the meal at Jane/Lupa the night before. Also, a savings of $23 is nothing to ignore, under the circumstances. -- Amuse: Green beans with duck proscuitto, apricot vinaigrette: This dish was only average, despite an interesting application of the apricot. Instead of the sugary sensations one ordinarily associates with apricot, here the fruit conveyed acidity. It still carried the "denser" textures in the saucing that one would ordinarily associate with apricot. -- Taylor Bay Scallops with Uni, Tomato Water and Mustard Oil, with a glass of champagne Paul Georg Blanc de Blancs. This dish was as previously described, except the mustard oil in the thin tomato water was more evident than previously and the mustard seed bits on top of the scallops were more noticed by me. A stronger mustard oil flavor than previously, but I liked both versions. I chose champagne, instead of the white wine suggested by the glass for this dish. The champagne was from a magnum. -- Celeryroot Veloute with Hibiscus and All-Spice: This veloute I found to be a work-in-progress. Celeryroot is theoretically a good veloute ingredient, but here the sweetness of the product was suppressed by almost an acidic overnote that should have been reduced. Interestingly, the all spice was in the form of artistic-looking dollops of oil on the surface of the celeryroot veloute. There was a burgundy-colored oil which, upon asking, I was told was cherry oil (I strongly doubted taht explanation). Interestingly, below the whitish celeryroot veloute was a layer of burgundy-colored veloute that I could initially not discern the composition of. I speculated a mix of rhubarb and beetroot, given the chef's inclination to utilize rhubarb, but was wrong. It was hibiscus that wass furnishing the sweetness. A dining room team member advised this dish had only recently been served at the restaurant. -- Short Ribs of Beef and Truffled Taro Root, with Glass of Cinsaut: A nice entree, and arguably one of the chef's signature dishes. As I had sampled previously, the ribs had a significant amount of bone with marrow inside accompanying it. The bone portion stood upright (as was the case I first sampled a version of this dish, perhaps without the taro component, more than 3-4 years ago) and contained a good amount of almost liquid, fatty-tasting marrow. A little spoon stood poised inside the bone section for my utilization. The short ribs were without bone, and were dark and attractive. Nice utilization of taro (as opposed to potato or celeryroot) -- the taro is earthier and less commonplace on US menus. Nice inclusion of 4-5 whole slices of black truffle, along the "edges" of the taro puree. This matched the dense, dark, jus-based sauce. Arguably slightly aggressive for my subjective tastes, but a dish I enjoyed. -- Cheese (see below), with a glass of Zabach CA Zin. -- Toasted Sesame Seed Creme Brulee with Pink Grapefruit Sorbet -- This dessert was average, because the acidity and thinness of the grapefruit sorbet did not match the creme brulee. The creme brulee tasted like a normal brulee, except that the top hard film had toasted sesame seeds. The brulee itself was appropriate, but I am not a fan of desserts to begin with. Nice choice of Muscat de Beaume de Venise by the dining room team, as I find Sauternes heavy on the mouth at times. -- Molten Chocolate Cake, with Vanilla Ice Cream and Rasberry Coulis -- This dessert was comp'd and not listed on the dessert menu. Nice inclusion of macadamia-like nuts in the vanilla ice cream. For a chocolate lover, this dessert might have been attractive. I took a bite of the chocolate cake, but did finish the ice cream. I was comp'd on water, the dessert wine (Muscat de baume de Venise), a pre-dessert cheese course (with a particularly nice Shropshire, spelling, Blue; extra points for offering without my request sliced green apple; honey with toasted sesame seeds was not bad either) and an extra dessert (chocolate -- how was the restaurant to know this is not to my subjective liking? ). With espresso, $95 after tax and before tips. Very attentive service, including by certain dining room members who spoke French. A team whose various members were well-versed in the ingredients in the dishes presented, and seemed genuinely interested in their work. UP was among my preferred restaurants prior to my experiences at Blue Hill, and, while I prefer BH, UP is still up there. All of this was conferred without my being a known, regular customer. I would strongly recommend the UP pre-theater offer to members who like this type of cuisine. On weeknights, I believe seating or ordering (?) by 6 pm confers the prix fixe price. CathyL -- Blue Hill offers particularly attractive wine pairings, although the pairings are not listed with respect to dishes on the indvidual dishes like they are at UP.

I'd appreciate your input on how frequently women dine alone at Paris three-stars. I am surprised that there do not appear to be that many solo women diners at such facilities. If you agree with this phenomenon, why do you believe that women do not go and have a wonderful meal on their own more frequently than they do?

Steve -- On your reference to "stodgy" clientele, what did you mean? Also, why would the appearance or other aspects of other diners at a given restaurant matter in a meaningful way to you? I don't particularly care who other diners are, so long as they don't have very heavy perfume on and are not speaking at inappropriately loud levels. I often find that I am among the best dressed (or most modernly dressed) women at a restaurant (at least in my own mind), and that doesn't bother me a bit.

Towards the end of the below linked thread are 2002 reviews of Aux Lyonnais: http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?act=ST...hl=aux+lyonnais

Steven -- Yes, for a while there was even a lunch/brunch menu with certain breakfast-type items, according to the website. I do not know whether those items were only served at the bar (??).

fresh_a: Do you have a personal set of notes on the preferences of your "regular" hotel guests (e.g., guests' favorite restaurants, birthdays and anniversaries, restaurants previously visited in Paris, luxury shops frequented)? Roughly how many such regulars are there (for you and for the team of which you are a part)? Is this information specific to you or shared with your colleagues? Is there a computer database tracking such information? Roughly how many of your regulars (%) travel to France with the predominant goal of sampling two- and three-star restaurants? Would the percentage change if restaurants at all levels were included? Separately, do you have special relationships with third party organizations through which you can secure reservations in Paris (e.g., Relais & Chateaux umbrella; other hotels' concierge desks to the extent they have better relationships with a given restaurant specified by a guest; sommelier organizations; cigar clubs)?

I can't accept these are necessarily positive changes. Look at the lunch menu, and ask onself what sort of restaurant one would infer it would tend to be served at. Granted, the menu could be well-executed by Chef Hawksworth, but the strategic positioning of the restaurant has changed (not in a positive direction, in my own assessment without having sampled the cuisine at West).

fresh_a: What is your preferred three-star restaurant in Paris (i) for recommendation to hotel guests, and (ii) separately, for your own dining, and why? When you visit a two- or three-starred restaurant with which you have a relationship, do you receive special treatment (e.g., off-menu or additional dishes, complimentary wine) and do you sometimes not have to pay?

fresh_a: When you make reservations on behalf of a hotel guest at a restaurant, what channels are available for you to receive feedback about (i) whether the guest was satisfied with the meal, (ii) whether the restaurant found the guest gracious and generous, and (iii) the specific nature of the dishes and wine ordered (including whether the restaurant conferred special treatment, such as extra dishes, to the guest)? For instance, how detailed might a guest's comments about a restaurant be and do guests tend to comment with equal frequency after having received a good meal as a less satisfactory meal? Do you have a significant number of "regular" guests whom you know understand haute cuisine and are articulate about it? Do guests expect attention from the chef and the maitre d', or a good table, when you make the reservation, and complain when such attention is not forthcoming? Do you tend to receive feedback the next time you call the restaurant for a reservation? Do you hear about any "no shows" on the part of one of your guests? Thanks for your participation on the board.

With respect to Arzak, I have only eaten there recently. However, I wanted to suggest the possibility that any changes over time may also reflect Chef Elena Arzak's development as a chef and her increased involvement in the conceptualization of dishes. Note this is not being advanced as an alternative theory, but as a possibly relevant factor. For example, Elena devised the recipe for Pigeon "Lacado", but her Dad suggested some improvements to the dish. Similarly, Elena came up with the idea of An Egg Flower with Date "Txistorra". I did not subjectively find Arzak's dishes to have been strained or to fail to achieve their intended purpose.

On Escoffier, note the number of dishes on the quoted menu becomes eleven when two palate-cleansing sorbets, the petit fours and the fruit are removed. I have had approximately this many number of courses many times, albeit in tasting menu portions. For example, Berasategui in Lasarte Oria, near San Sebastian, Spain: Recently, I took in ten courses during a very good meal at Jean Bardet's Chateau Belmont in Tours. I ordered the Menu Legumes du Potager de Jean Bardet (Vegetables Menu from the Garden of Jean Bardet), and added full or half-servings of a number of a la carte dishes. I was eager to sample Chef Bardet's cuisine for the first time: -- Amuses -- Little pastry items, including gougere and a pastry fan with a salmon quenelle -- Le veloute de Topinamobours Roses de Rennes a la truffe noire du Perigord (Veloute of Jerusalem artichoke of the type "Roses de Renne" with Perigord black truffles -- Barigoule d'artichaut violet, creme de basilic (Artichokes with basil cream) -- La Courge "Jack Be Little" Fourree de Legumes ("Jack Be Little" Squash Stuffed with Vegetables) -- Le Civet Gourmand de Homard Bleu de l'Atlantique et Petits Crustaces au Vieux Vouvray Epice de Gingembre et Citron Vert (Lobster of the Atlantic with Small Shellfish, Old Vouvray, Ginger and Lime) -- 1/2 portion from a la carte -- Mi-Fume de Saumon Vapeur, Ventriche, Feves et Pois Gourmands au Haddock (Half-Smoked Salmon cooked in steam, variation of bacon, feve beans and peas with haddock) -- Full portion from a la carte -- La Poelee de Racines, Topinambours, Panais, Cerfeuil Tubereux, Helianthis, Persil Racine, Emulsion de la Truffe (Pan-Fried Root Vegetables with Truffle Emulsion) -- L'Assiette "Verte" de Legumes d'Hiver, Yaourt Bulgare au piment d'Esplette ("Green" Plate of Winter Vegetables, Yoghurt and Esplette peppers) -- Full portion from a la carte -- Jambonnettes de cuisses de grenouilles dorees au beurre sale, des pieds d'agneaux et quelques champignons sautes (Frogs' legs sauteed in salted butter, with various mushrooms) -- 1/2 portion from a la carte -- Les Aubergines cristallisees, glace au pelargonium, figue fraiche et creme de badione (Eggplant dessert, geranium ice cream, fresh figs) -- Dessert variation with five small desserts, including La Pastilla a la fleur d'oranger I drank a glass of house champagne (Demoiselles de Vranken, Cuvee Jean Bardet, bottled for the chef) and a bottle of Laville Haut-Brion 1993 (79 euros; a wonderful price). I'm not confused by a tasting menu with a large number of dishes. First, the dishes obviously arrive sequentially and, at least in France if not in Spain, my experience has been the presence of some gap (at least 5-10 minutes, if not more) between the arrival time of dishes. Second, while it would be better to sample ten or eleven dishes over the course of, say, two meals, there are many restaurants to visit and the diner may have allocated only one meal to the establishment in question. In this case, the choice is between having fewer courses and not sampling the additional dishes, on one hand, and stretching oneself slightly and "going for it". Third, while I do not like leaving food that tastes good on my plate, I would do so if I had "capacity" issues and still wanted to sample a large number of dishes. Fourth, the intellectual enjoyment of a dish is not affected because I focus on each dish when it is before me. I take notes and photos, thereby preserving my assessments of each dish. I don't have a preference for lengthier tasting menus, but neither do I have an aversion to them.

Apologies -- mistaken post.

I sampled fluke fin for the first time recently (Engawa). Its textures were ribbed and fairly pronounced. It was served with ponzu sauce, and was taken in at a small Japanese restaurant in NY (cuisine not otherwise interesting). I found it rather interesting. I'm curious about whether the NY restaurant translated this item properly. The chef was not too well -versed in English, but showed me that the "fluke fin" ran along almost the entire length of the "body" of the fish. It was not a "fin" in the sense one of the image conjured up by that word (i.e., a more pointy, shark-like fin with respect to appearance).

sgschef -- Yes, consider Lumiere's bar area. Lumiere is one of the more expensive restaurants in town, but its bar area is reasonably priced. http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?act=ST&f=74&t=2716

While the "West" website does not yet have the indicative revised menus (indication of posting this afternoon), I was able to somehow get this link: http://www.ouestrestaurant.com/ouest/menus.../menu.asp?ID=60 (dinner menu) http://www.ouestrestaurant.com/ouest/menus.../menu.asp?ID=87 (tasting menu) http://www.ouestrestaurant.com/ouest/menus.../menu.asp?ID=88 (lunch menu) Note the very informal nature of some of the items on the lunch menu (e.g., Eggs Benedict, French Onion Soup, Fish and Chips, French Toast, honey roasted turkey breast on foccacia). I have nothing against such dishes. However, they do not require a great deal of culinary talent to prepare adequately. While it's accurate that some informal brunch-type items had previously appeared on Ouest's bar menu, the prevalence of such items on the West lunch menu is noteworthy. The dinner menu also does not seem to describe dishes in the style that Chef Hawksworth used to label his dishes. For example, "Grilled One Pound Lobster with Rosemary Herb Butter and Golden Pomme Frites". Chef Hawksworth would probably not label his lobster as being "one pound"; if there were a label, it would have been the origination point of the lobster. The "Salad 'West' with choice of vinaigrette" sounds inappropriate for the chef as well.

Hmm -- I appreciate that individual orders of coffee/tea might be expensive too, but is it clear that Claridge's portions for afternoon tea would not be large enough for fewer than five portions of the food to be ordered? Do members have input on portion size at Claridge's? (Note I have never sampled tea there)

Do members have updates on Aqua since Mina's disassociation? Also, do members have input on The Dining Room at the Nob Hill Ritz-Carlton? Is Portay still the chef there?

Well, I can't say I'm sorry, based on the one or two meals I've had there (lunches only).

Zagat's December 2002 newsletter reported the following: "Roast duck number one million will be served at a gala dinner on April 29, 2003. Since 1880, every duck served in this famous dining room has been numbered, with King Edward VII of England eating duck No. 328, and his granddaughter Queen Elizabeth II tucking into No. 185,387. Owner Claude Terrail will select the 110 guests who will see this tradition into seven digits." I have my certificate in a photo album.

Zagat lists Maison Novelli on its "Recent Closings" list. Has this restaurant closed?

Zagat reports the following: "L'Artisan du Chocolat: The supplier to many of London's top restaurants will offer tutored chocolate tastings in their shop at 89 Lower Sloane Street, SW1 (January 15 and 29, February 19; £35 per person; 020-7824 8365)."

At the Royal Opera House, I sometimes don't have time to eat before a performance and am so hungry (the sandwiches are not too satisfying at the bar area and champagne doesn't suffice) that I eat at the restaurant during intermissions. The website notes the following: "Restaurants - Starter and main course are served pre-performance with dessert and coffee at the first interval. Where there is more than one interval, alternative arrangements may be made." However, the restaurant is flexible and can time even appetizers during the first interval if one cannot arrive before the show. I've eaten there perhaps four times, and the food, while nothing special, is acceptable when I am hungry. The restaurant does a fairly good job of timing the arrival of dishes, relative to the length of the intermission. The Ivy can be contacted for post-performance last minute availability. When it's game season, I sometimes call Rules the day of to see what is available, and might have a post-performance dinner there. The game preparation is traditional, and the service is poor, but sometimes I feel like taking in game late at night. I've had pre-theater dinners at Richard Corrigan's (more time is needed, as the restaurant is not particularly close). The restaurant has a special menu that needs to be mentioned in connection with the making of the reservations, and has few customers during the early hours. Thus, it can turn the dishes rather rapidly.